It seems that temperature on outer edges of the chip were not enough, but in centre it was too much. If heating with a heatgun set to 230 degrees, and set table temperature to 300 degrees, it will be enough to gently desolder this chip. PUHUI T-8280 needs some slight modification. By default...
You must heat stencil slowly. I usually set 200 degrees temperature and lowest flow. Starting to heat from 10cm from chip. After approx. 1 minute I'm heating at 5cm and starting to rise flow to maximum. In my first tries I started to head at very high flow and stencil did exactly the same as yours.
Sure, I'm heating the stencil with balls. And after melting I stop heating, then wait for temperature approx. 60 degrees and then loft stencil (it will stick to the chip if you'll wait too long to cold down). Sorry for my English))
I think that using proper stencil (I'm using kit from AliExpress with 270 stencils for approx. 30 USD) and balls makes reballing as easy as any other soldering activity. AliExpress stencils are not bending when heating. You only need to sit all balls in their holes and heat it to ~200 degrees C...
I think SPI sniffer will be enough to see what is done by this CPLD, so even no need to read exact firmware from it. My expectation is that this CPLD is "listening" to communication between chips and just replacing (driving it with more current) some bytes containing chip revision.
If using big preheater, which will cover all mobo size, there should happen no bend. Drafts should also be avoided.
I'm personally using cheap Chinese PUHUI T-8280, it covers the whole PS3 motherboard, heats up slowly. No bends occured.
Hi!
There is an issue in this CFW connected with PS1 emulation. It seems that all games are running in 50hz PAL mode regardless of what they actually need.
Is it possible to fix this bug?