CECHA01 Modding for Longevity/Quietness

[psy1]

Hello,

I have an old CECHA01.
It still has the warranty sticker intact; it's never been opened.
The fan is quite loud. It's probably jammed with heaps of dust. System temperature is usually between 70-80 degrees on both the CPU and GPU.
Note: I've already decided not to drill holes in the back of the PS3 because it permanently damages the console and my PS3 is wall mounted anyway; so drilling holes in the back will have little to no effect.

After watching this video:

I've been thinking of doing something similar to my PS3.

I have some questions although:

1. Is there anyway to preserve the Warranty Sticker? I suspect if I try and tear it off it will say "void" and I would like to avoid this if possible.

2. I'm thinking of replacing the power supply. I hear my model PS3 came with 2 different power supplies. One is considered reliable and good (The PS226) , the other one is considered bad (The Z series) and is usually replaced with the good one. If I open up my PS3 and discover that I have the Z series, where can I purchase the PS226?
Or another idea: the best possible PSU for the PS3? If it's not the PS226 already.

3. I hear that I should upgrade my fan to one with more blades? (Mystic put a new 19 blade fan in his.)
Can anyone tell me which model fan I should be using for a replacement?

4. I probably will put Thermal Grizzly on top of the CPU and GPU but I will not de-lid as I hear that sometimes this can break the system. Am I right for thinking that?
Mystic also put new thermal pads on his. I will probably do the same.
It will be the fist time I have used thermal pads; is there anything I should know in advance?

5. I'm thinking about buffing the outside of my PS3, like the guy in this video did:

Has anyone had any experience in buffing the outside of the PS3? If so can you give any advice?

6. Are there any guides people can point to to increase the longevity of my PS3 and to make it quieter? Also some teardown vids would probably be handy. (Links if possible.)
Or any other general advice people can give?

Thank you in advance

 

[psy1]

Other notes I couldn't add because editing time had expired:

- The "good" fan model is actually APS-226.

- The original fan has 15 blades. I hear that more blades = more air flow and that I want to keep the fan on max all the time.
I could probably do this through software. I think irisman has an option for this?

- One more thing about thermal pads. Are there any differences in thermal pad quality? Or can I just buy any thermal pads?
I'm told I am looking for a thickness of 2-2.5mm.

- Another point: should I replace the internal battery?

 

[ElGris]

1_

2_I know people use the ones that came with the CECHG or H, but I don't really know if it matchs the same current specs as the OG. Most of the models are 110v-230v but the problem here is the max current the PSU can deliver. You should check that before atempting a change.
3_Is not something really proved. Just keep the original and use a fan mod or webmanmod. Along with a good MX-4. Don't use MX-5, I saw a comparison and it's not better, and it's more expensive.
4_I really don't know, there's no comparison that I know with 90nm processors. I'd stick with the thermal paste and add pads on the rest of the chips.

I saw Mystic's video and I think he had luck with the delid, it wasn't the most delicate approach but at the end he didn't kill it. Doing holes isn't the best idea since you're changing the airflow design, and the fan stuff isn't a real thing either.

In your case you NEED to do a CELL delid, else you'll kill it, or bgas will break because they're already cracked. I don't know about the GPU, it usually doesn't need a delid. You better install some fan control asap.

Using a fat PS3 means YLOD sooner or later, keep that in mind.

 

[sandungas]

About thermal pads... one of the most important details to keep in mind is the metal shields that covers the motherboard like a sandwich are designed to keep an small airflow inside the "sandwich". If you keep attention to the metal shields you are going to see it have bumps (that matches with some components, but also creates "air tunnels", and many "holes" to allow the air to enter/exit the sandwich
Everytime you add a thermal pad you are disturbing that design a bit... as said the amount of air that moves inside the sandwich is small, but the point is you should not obstruct it completly
Lets say... you can stack several thermal pads of 1.5mm heigh each to create a "pillar" or a "wall"... and this would transfer heat from the motherboard to the metal very well... so it looks like a good idea, but if is blocking the air then is not so good idea
In general... you can add as many thermal pads as you want but keeping that rule in mind

Btw... try to buy thermal pads announced as "non electrical conductive"... just incase... and when you got them in your hands confirm it with a multimeter... just incase

I dont remember right now the unit used to meassure thermal transfer in the thermal pads (is something related with watts) and i dont remember the ranges well... but just throwing some numbers...
You are going to find a lot cheap thermal pads with a thermal transfer of 50 (or where the thermal transfer is not even mentioned, in that case you can assume are the worst)... is the kind of thing for industrial use, you know... is better than nothing but a bit "meh"
There are others with a thermal transfer of 100 (still cheap but hard to find)... and a bunch with a thermal transfer of 150, made by reputable brands, very expensive, sold in a "premium" package intended for PC entushiasts. As you can imagine this ones are the top tier and the manufacturers have a competition to achieve the best performance, and are tiny (lets say 30$ for a thermal pad of the size of a smoking paper)
The best choice quality/prize are the ones at the middle tier, the others more expecise are not worthy

 

[psy1]

In your case you NEED to do a CELL delid, else you'll kill it, or bgas will break because they're already cracked. I don't know about the GPU, it usually doesn't need a delid. You better install some fan control asap.

I'm confused here. So you are saying that I will absolutely need to do a CELL delid?
Or else the console will quickly die?
And how can you tell?
By the way that video you linked to about how not to break the warranty seal; it's a joke.

"or bgas will break because they're already cracked."
I'm not to sure what you mean by "bgas".

I'm happy to delid the CELL processor, but only if it's absolutely required.

Please respond because I will be reconditioning the entire unit very soon.

 

[Pacorretaco]

I'm confused here. So you are saying that I will absolutely need to do a CELL delid?
Or else the console will quickly die?
And how can you tell?
By the way that video you linked to about how not to break the warranty seal; it's a joke.

"or bgas will break because they're already cracked."
I'm not to sure what you mean by "bgas".

I'm happy to delid the CELL processor, but only if it's absolutely required.

Please respond because I will be reconditioning the entire unit very soon.

First of all keep in mind that often "reconditioning" or "modding for longevity" these machines normally achieves very little or sometimes makes things worse. So proceed with caution.

If you are talking about replacing thermal paste, this is why is not a good idea to even bother:
There is an Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS) between the main chips and the heatsinks. With thermal paste interface not only on top of the IHS, but also under it.
Because of this design, it will always be the thermal paste UNDER the IHS (especially CELL CPU) that degrades first and loses contact and performance first.

Meaning that if you go and remove the heatsinks (which will be nicely stuck with some force, so it is already some risk), and you replace the thermal paste on TOP like you normally would...
Not only you would be replacing something that was already in good condition, but you would be leaving the real problem (under CPU IHS) untouched and probably worse than before, because of the pulling force now even less contact than before in the critical area... Regardless of what you put in the top.
In other words: Opposite effect as intended.

So, my advice is, do not bother unless you are ready to delid with confidence.
And you are also probably right. The need for delid is most likely not inminent either. No, the machine will not die "because" you didn't delid CPU. This is also another complex or counter-intuitive thing.

The rest of the "mods" are similarly questionable so keep that in mind.

Cheers

 

[Pacorretaco]

Other notes I couldn't add because editing time had expired:

- The "good" fan model is actually APS-226.

- The original fan has 15 blades. I hear that more blades = more air flow and that I want to keep the fan on max all the time.
I could probably do this through software. I think irisman has an option for this?

- One more thing about thermal pads. Are there any differences in thermal pad quality? Or can I just buy any thermal pads?
I'm told I am looking for a thickness of 2-2.5mm.

- Another point: should I replace the internal battery?

Again with the fan, you may be chasing a lie. Both fans are not only very similar, but it is not that clear which is better. I'd say the fan with less and bigger blades has a much better blade-hub ratio... Happens to be the newer design too. Condition will probably matter more than kind.

PSU same story. There is a very high chance that whichever PSU will outlast the rest of the machine anyway, so why worry about it more than necesary.

The battery... As soon as you remove it to replace it, the internal syscon clock will reset with no way to modify it, as a tamper-proof feature. This doesnt really matter probably, so it is up to you. I would wait until it is actually drained on its own, or somehow replace it in such a way that power is not lost during the operation.

Finally yes, the fan curves may be actually a good idea for comfort hehehehe. For best result I wrote how to modify the SYSCON fan curves a while ago. Also not "necessary" but I do recommend that if you actually want to do it.

https://www.psx-place.com/threads/modifying-syscon-fan-settings-better-than-webman.34626/

 

[psy1]

OK tonight I tore down the PS3 and gave it a good clean and applied Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste.

Turns out I had what's considered the "good" power supply; model number APS-226.
I also had the "good" 19 blade fan; model number NMB-MAT BG1402-B045-P00.
I also gently removed the warranty sticker and it did not void the label. I suspect it was too old and the VOID part did not work.

The rubber stopper behind the warranty sticker snapped and tore; it must have deteriorated with age as I was very gentle.
In regards to guides, I found the ifixit guide very helpful in knowing where to put the screws back in: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/PlayStation+3+Teardown/1260

I found very little dust in the unit but got every little bit out that I could.
The original thermal paste wasn't in too bad condition actually.
I think I got lucky and got a very good condition CECHA01.

NOTE: the support screws for the CPU/GPU on the back were loose when I first opened it.
I tightened them firmly when I put the console back together.

Things I did not do:
- I did not apply Thermal Grizzly thermal paste; I had some Thermal Grizzly but it turned out I didn't quite have enough of it, so I used
Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste instead.
- I did not apply new thermal pads, if I did I would have bought the "Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8" in 2mm. (My note: Mystic applied an additional thermal pad.)
- Decided not to buff the outer case.
- Decided not to replace the CMOS battery. If I did, I would have tried to get one with a battery holder, so I can just slip the battery in and out when it comes time to replace.
- And I did not delid the CPU or RSX.

In regards to noise and thermals after I cleaned the unit and applied new paste:
CPU = 73-74 degrees
RSX = 65-66 degrees

I took note of my thermals before I did the work on the PS3 and it turns out there is no significant difference.
The PS3 fan is still quite loud for my liking.


@Pacorretaco, I can see you are very knowledgeable on PS3 modding. Thanks for your input.

Condition will probably matter more than kind.

In regards to fans. Yes, you are probably correct here also, I would love to somehow replace the stock fan with a Noctua.

Not only you would be replacing something that was already in good condition, but you would be leaving the real problem (under CPU IHS) untouched and probably worse than before, because of the pulling force now even less contact than before in the critical area... Regardless of what you put in the top.
In other words: Opposite effect as intended.

Yes, I think this is what happened.
And yes, I do not think I'm ready to delid just yet. I think I might tolerate the noisy fan.
Unless someone really convinces me otherwise?

 

[psy1]

The battery... As soon as you remove it to replace it, the internal syscon clock will reset with no way to modify it, as a tamper-proof feature. This doesnt really matter probably, so it is up to you. I would wait until it is actually drained on its own, or somehow replace it in such a way that power is not lost during the operation.

Not too sure what you mean here.
So, if I remove the battery and don't quickly put another one in, the system clock will go buggy?

 

[Berion]

With dead or removed battery, RTC reset to default date & time, to get it back, You need internet connection. It is one time procedure until again, battery stops for any reason keeps RTC setting.

if I remove the battery and don't quickly put another one in

You must be quicker than electrons. ;p

 

[BwE]

Just let it die

 

[psy1]

I find the noise of the fan to be really annoying.
I'm thinking of delidding the CELL and the RSX.
Will this make the fan quieter?

At the moment I believe I am using irisman for fan control.
But, I'm not sure...
The fan tends to ramp up when the system gets hotter; I think it's irisman doing it (ramping up the fan at a certain temp.) but as I said; I'm not sure.
Can anyone confirm that?

Also, when I took the console apart I noticed what looked to be beige masking tape on a couple of sections.
I wouldn't mind replacing that as well; does anyone know what type of tape that was?

 

[Pacorretaco]

Not too sure what you mean here.
So, if I remove the battery and don't quickly put another one in, the system clock will go buggy?

Not buggy, it will reset to 2005 (unless you are quicker than electrons like Berion says hehehe)
Probably not a big deal though, thats why I just said it's simply what "I" would do. (With "me" being a bit of a crazy bastard hehehe)

With dead or removed battery, RTC reset to default date & time, to get it back, You need internet connection. It is one time procedure until again, battery stops for any reason keeps RTC setting.

;p

Except you are talking about the "user-level" system clock that yes, can be changed as many times as you want, with or without internet.

However the machine is smarter than that, and will not be completely fooled so easily, hehehe. The "under the hood" clock will still be back at 2005 and this is not something that can be easily tampered with. In fact it is one of the things that are involved in the "marrying process" between the CELL CPU and the Syscon etc.

Again, wether this matters or not... Is debatable yes

 

[Pacorretaco]

I find the noise of the fan to be really annoying.
I'm thinking of delidding the CELL and the RSX.
Will this make the fan quieter?

At the moment I believe I am using irisman for fan control.
But, I'm not sure...
The fan tends to ramp up when the system gets hotter; I think it's irisman doing it (ramping up the fan at a certain temp.) but as I said; I'm not sure.
Can anyone confirm that?

Also, when I took the console apart I noticed what looked to be beige masking tape on a couple of sections.
I wouldn't mind replacing that as well; does anyone know what type of tape that was?

The fan will always be annoying if you use high-level dynamic fan controls like you mention Irisman (probably Webman fan control).... These are ok but they just have too many limitations. Best to avoid if you can.

That's why I made guide about modifying the default SYSCON fan curves. Which is way superior system and it is low-level so it will always work great regardless of the firmware. Including ofw, PS2 mode, otherOS or even with no firmware at all in case of freeze or whatever.

 

[psy1]

Just letting everyone know that the ball is rolling.
I've just made a big online order for the tools and mats that I will need to delid and do some general upgrades to the PS3.
I might try this to preserve the PRAM battery:

I have good FLUKE.

 

[psy1]

That's why I made guide about modifying the default SYSCON fan curves. Which is way superior system and it is low-level so it will always work great regardless of the firmware. Including ofw, PS2 mode, otherOS or even with no firmware at all in case of freeze or whatever.

Looks complicated but I will check it out, thanks.

 

[psy1]

@Pacorretaco I had a look at your fan mod and that's waaay to complicated.
I'm using webman for my fan control atm and that seems to do the job fine.
My fan is way too loud atm and I'm hoping to get it quieter.

I have found that 26% fan speed is the minimum acceptable for me in terms of sound.
But, at that fan speed the system overheats and shuts down.
My PS3 got to 83 Celsius on the CPU and 78 on the RSX and then shut down.
I will check fan noise levels after I have done the delid in hopes of making the system quieter.

Here are some stats I have from my PS3 temps.
It seems max fan speed in webman is 94%.
I sat on the XMB for 10 mins on 94% fan speed and got a temp of 55CPU and 51RSX.
I played Tekken 6 (the most demanding game I have) for 10 mins with the fan on 94% and got 54CPU and 53RSX.

I presume the important temperature is the CPU and the temp of the RSX doesn't matter?

Atm I am using webman and having a max temp set to 68 which is the default.
On the startup/XMB screen with max set to 68, I get a constant CPU temp of 67, RSX of 65 and the fan goes between 33% which is loud for me.

Anyone know a safe temp for the CPU for a CECHA01? It seems a lot of people consider a max of 68 to be acceptable.
I will probably increase the max temp in webman if I can get lower fan speeds.
I know so far that having a fan speed of 26% crashes the system, so it must be higher than that.

Also, I have decided to use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut between the heat spreader and the CPU/RSX, I think this would be better than basic thermal compound. Conductonaut is liquid metal.

 

[Pacorretaco]

@Pacorretaco I had a look at your fan mod and that's waaay to complicated.
I'm using webman for my fan control

Sure, nobody said this is beginner stuff.
And as I said before, nothing is "necessary". This still stands.

However from the beginning you seemed to be ready to go out of your way to do over-the-top modifications, some of them involving big investments of not only time and money, but also risk... Even for minimal or possibly opposite effects.

Modifying the SYSCON fan curves may take a bit of effort, but make no mistake:
There is nothing better if you care about fan control and comfort. (Not to mention it opens other possibilities)
All while being totally harmless and reversible modification. Inexpensive, and really can be done in a few minutes. For me, most of the effort is in opening the machine...

Lastly, you should understand that these kinds of things cant really be improved by buying alone... As you have already seen, even the most expensive thermal pastes make no improvement by themselves in a simple repaste job for example.

Delid not only requires the appropriate tool, but even then you can easily cause permanent damage if you are not experienced and confident enough. Which you cant buy directly.

Then assuming the delid is successful
(At best I can already tell you that the important and risky RSX will not improve a lot)
the fan will still be annoying if you use inferior fan control solutions. Speed constantly going up and down like a mosquito... Still annoying even if the max speed is not so high. And you seem to be caring for acoustics hehehe.

All without forgetting that you are dealing with incredibly complex and unpredictable machine... no matter what you do... You may want to tune your expectations.

 

[ElGris]

* Those temps are horrible, your north should be 35% on fan speed (ambient temperature is important too), from there you can start doing tricks with the cooling mods.
* Delid CELL only, leave the RSX alone for now. It's overheating and if you don't do the delid, you're just forcing the cooling system. If you changed the paste and things are the same, you have to do it, sadly. Remember that you can literally kill it, so read a lot. Most important thing here are your tools.
*Liquid metal on these consoles are not recommended, it's gonna eat alive those aluminum heatsinks.
* I saw better thermal pads than those grizzly, like thermal right??? @sandungas You know these?
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005003383103511.html

Usually with MX4 is enough, you can go up and up, it only depends of your pockets. There're a few threads talking specially about 90nm RSX swaps, detecting YLOD errors and even one for the fan curve as @Pacorretaco said. These consoles, this particular model, is no joke.

 

[sandungas]

* I saw better thermal pads than those grizzly, like thermal right??? @sandungas You know these?
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005003383103511.html

I dont know them but that one with a thermal conductivity of 15w/mk is in the "top tier" i was mentioning

Spoiler

Now im looking at it i remember the meassure units

When i said that comes in a "premiun packet" i just mean are inside an envelope made with cardborad, printed with the brand of the manufacturer, the model, the performance specs, etc... You know is the kind of product where the manufacturer is proud of it and is focused in the "enthusiast PC" market
I dont suggest to go that high quality because are expensive (check the size, the best ones are tiny)

Lets say... that "top tier" is around 15w/mk (as far i remember i found some with better performance, and more expensive of course)... and the "low tier" is around 3w/mk without brand, and/or where the selller doesnt even mentions the thermal conductivity, are cheap (and big) but the quality is meh

The good ones are the intermediate tier... something of a size 10x10cm with a thermal conductivity of 10w/mk and with a price of 10€
And shipped this way, without package
https://www.amazon.es/Arctic-Thermal-Pad-Conductividad-Especialmente/dp/B00UYTTDO6

*Not exactly the link i posted... thats not a good buy (and is small) but if you spend a bit of time searching for them you are going to find some with a good relationship of quality/prize
You know... are the kind of product for the people that uses them professionally and doesnt wants to pay the full price of the most expensive ones, but the quality needs to be aceptable