CECHC04 YLOD

[ZooNooU]

Hello,
As the title says, I have a phat PS3 that is occasionally YLOD-ing on GT6, LA: NOIRE, COD Ghosts, Uncharted... and some other heavy entries.
Which clearly suggests that it's on its way to die.

I'm here asking if there's a way to save it, how to identify the exact problem?
I want to get rid of the YLOD completely, my colleague is VERY good at soldering, so if there are any parts that needs changing, he's capable of doing so.
Would applying Frankenstein MOD save my PS3?

Any infos/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Timbo9876]

Firstly, go to ps3toolset.com and jailbreak your console. Then install PS3 Advanced Tools and do a Syscon dump to your USB. Open the SM folder from the USB stick using your laptop or a PC. Now, look at the error codes. If you see 1001 or 1002, then it's a tokin issue. If you see 1601 or 1701 or both, then it's likely your RSX is dying.

Tokins can be replaced with tantalum capacitors. There is a tutorial on PSX place on how to do this. (Solidering skills required)

If it's an RSX issue, then a frankenstian mod is required. You will need to find someone with experience in doing this mod to do this for you


Sent from my SM-F936B using Tapatalk

 

[ZooNooU]

Firstly, go to ps3toolset.com and jailbreak your console. Then install PS3 Advanced Tools and do a Syscon dump to your USB. Open the SM folder from the USB stick using your laptop or a PC. Now, look at the error codes. If you see 1001 or 1002, then it's a tokin issue. If you see 1601 or 1701 or both, then it's likely your RSX is dying.

Tokins can be replaced with tantalum capacitors. There is a tutorial on PSX place on how to do this. (Solidering skills required)

If it's an RSX issue, then a frankenstian mod is required. You will need to find someone with experience in doing this mod to do this for you


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Thanks!
Can I rely on the logs after I deliberately cause it to YLOD? (aka play a game that'll surely YLOD).

Kindly, can you provide me with the link to that tool?

 

[Timbo9876]

Yes the logs are accurate and you can get PS3 Advanced Tools from brewoligy.com

Sent from my SM-F936B using Tapatalk

 

[ZooNooU]

Yes the logs are accurate and you can get PS3 Advanced Tools from brewoligy.com

Sent from my SM-F936B using Tapatalk

Hello, I've finally managed to dump the errors log, I've attached a screenshot.
so according to the error codes, both my RSX and tokin caps are dying?

 

[Timbo9876]

Hello, I've finally managed to dump the errors log, I've attached a screenshot.
so according to the error codes, both my RSX and tokin caps are dying?

You have a 1601 and a 1701 followed by a 1001.

The 1701 and 1601 codes point towards a solder crack in the BGA. This means the console could, after a period of time, log an 3034 event, which is RSX failure.

If you are running CFW, then some applications can also cause a 1601 and 1701. I have personally seen this after I installed Over Clocked Firmware on a 2 day old system. I then installed OC firmware on another console, and it did the same. On both occasions, it registered 1601 and 1701 without the 14FF code. Whenever I have seen a 1601,1701 with the 14FF code, the console has eventually transposed into either a 3034 RSX failure or a GLOD. So it's either a BGA issue or its a software glitch resulting from running CFW.

Now, the 1001 is likely to be CPU tokins. This would mean removing a CPU tokin and adding 4 tantalum capacitors (guide can be found here on PSX place.

Sent from my SM-F936B using Tapatalk

 

[ZooNooU]

You have a 1601 and a 1701 followed by a 1001.

The 1701 and 1601 codes point towards a solder crack in the BGA. This means the console could, after a period of time, log an 3034 event, which is RSX failure.

If you are running CFW, then some applications can also cause a 1601 and 1701. I have personally seen this after I installed Over Clocked Firmware on a 2 day old system. I then installed OC firmware on another console, and it did the same. On both occasions, it registered 1601 and 1701 without the 14FF code. Whenever I have seen a 1601,1701 with the 14FF code, the console has eventually transposed into either a 3034 RSX failure or a GLOD. So it's either a BGA issue or its a software glitch resulting from running CFW.

Now, the 1001 is likely to be CPU tokins. This would mean removing a CPU tokin and adding 4 tantalum capacitors (guide can be found here on PSX place.

Sent from my SM-F936B using Tapatalk

Thanks for your help.
what would be the best slim model (in terms of cpu/gpu failing or any part that would eventually fail on its own) that accepts CFW?
would it be a 25xx series? (if I find any on yhe market)

 

[Timbo9876]

Thanks for your help.
what would be the best slim model (in terms of cpu/gpu failing or any part that would eventually fail on its own) that accepts CFW?
would it be a 25xx series? (if I find any on yhe market)

Get a super slim. It's the most reliable PS3. You can run HEN (Home Brew Enabler)

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[ZooNooU]

Get a super slim. It's the most reliable PS3. You can run HEN (Home Brew Enabler)

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I might consider a super slim, but I find it cheap looking and even cheaply built (cheap plastic) I hope you get me.
besides, I prefer CFW over HEN.

so, the super slim models won't YLOD on me? as I'm trying to collect a console from every generation that would survive with me for long.

 

[daft]

I might consider a super slim, but I find it cheap looking and even cheaply built (cheap plastic) I hope you get me.
besides, I prefer CFW over HEN.

so, the super slim models won't YLOD on me? as I'm trying to collect a console from every generation that would survive with me for long.

If you want true CFW (not HEN) then get a CECH-25xx slim with date code 0C or 0D. It will be CFW compatible. Date code 1A may be able to be CFW compatible but it's random. Don't bother chancing it.

Honestly besides the first slim (CECH-20xx), the later slims and super slims are very reliable. Except the CECH-30xx slim somewhat as Sony cheaped out (80mm fan instead of 120mm).

Differences between them all:
CECH-20xx vs last Fat: Cell reduced to 45nm, NEK/TOKIN caps next to Cell changed to Tantalum.
CECH-21xx vs CECH-20xx: RSX reduced to 40nm from 65nm. NEK/TOKIN caps next to RSX changed to Tantalum. No more NEK/TOKINs present on the motherboard.
CECH-25xx vs CECH-21xx: Blu-ray controller integrated into the motherboard. Meaning if the BD fails, the console still boots. However, CFW is no longer possible on the later models.
CECH-30xx vs CECH-25xx. Sony cheaped out. Smaller fan, cooling system changed. Arguably inferior to CECH-25xx.
CECH-40xx/42xx/43xx: RSX no longer has IHS. Top loading mechanism for discs, less moving parts. In theory less chance of failure. Some 42xx and 43xx super slims come with a 28nm RSX. Fan on some models is loud compared to Slim.

So as you can see, a CFW compatible CECH-25xx is the sweet spot for reliability. Only the later super slims featured a smaller 28nm RSX which produces less heat than 40nm, but to be honest a well kept system (repaste etc) the difference is negligible.

 

[ZooNooU]

If you want true CFW (not HEN) then get a CECH-25xx slim with date code 0C or 0D. It will be CFW compatible. Date code 1A may be able to be CFW compatible but it's random. Don't bother chancing it.

Honestly besides the first slim (CECH-20xx), the later slims and super slims are very reliable. Except the CECH-30xx slim somewhat as Sony cheaped out (80mm fan instead of 120mm).

Differences between them all:
CECH-20xx vs last Fat: Cell reduced to 45nm, NEK/TOKIN caps next to Cell changed to Tantalum.
CECH-21xx vs CECH-20xx: RSX reduced to 40nm from 65nm. NEK/TOKIN caps next to RSX changed to Tantalum. No more NEK/TOKINs present on the motherboard.
CECH-25xx vs CECH-21xx: Blu-ray controller integrated into the motherboard. Meaning if the BD fails, the console still boots. However, CFW is no longer possible on the later models.
CECH-30xx vs CECH-25xx. Sony cheaped out. Smaller fan, cooling system changed. Arguably inferior to CECH-25xx.
CECH-40xx/42xx/43xx: RSX no longer has IHS. Top loading mechanism for discs, less moving parts. In theory less chance of failure. Some 42xx and 43xx super slims come with a 28nm RSX. Fan on some models is loud compared to Slim.

So as you can see, a CFW compatible CECH-25xx is the sweet spot for reliability. Only the later super slims featured a smaller 28nm RSX which produces less heat than 40nm, but to be honest a well kept system (repaste etc) the difference is negligible.

Perfect explanation, thanks alot!
seems like I'll be getting a 25xx soon