Fixed - CECHA01 ylod hit me outta nowhere

H

Hawk8789

Member
Edit: FYI for anyone who finds this, I fixed YLOD without touching the Tokins, reflowing BGAs, or heating parts unnecessarily. Please, be kind to your consoles…and a big thank you to all who helped!

I've been reading here for years, but just signed up in the hopes that someone can point me where to look. Thanks for looking, and sorry for the lengthy post.

I bought this PS3 used and working with warranty seal intact several years ago.

I made sure it was working, then immediately replaced the thermal paste. I installed CFW and started monitoring temps. Idle at 72 for cell and I don't remember the rsx, but it was lower. I performed the delid of both and brought the temps down into the low 60s. Then I spent several days transferring ps1, 2, and 3 games onto the hard drive. I got the adaptors for controllers and memory cards and I mostly played ps2 games with my wife, a little bit of ps1, and only tested PS3 games for a few minutes, as I mostly try to use my slim for that. Been running great for a couple years, only using it a couple hours at a time. I always monitor temps, and I let it idle until they stabilize before I shut it off.

The last 8 months have not been kind to me, and I've had no time for games. The system has been sitting on the top shelf of my entertainment center on standby for at least half a year. I recently installed a PSIO in the Scph-1001 I refurbished so I've been playing with that, but I remembered I copied all my old saves to the PS3. I decided to copy them over to my memory card.

I pressed the button and instant ylod.

The only other ylod I had was a non-bc fat 10 years ago. Our a/c died on a 117 degree day and I was playing uncharted 3. It got hot and shut off several times, but I just kept turning it back on like an idiot. That one has a three second delay before ylod, this A01 is instant.

What does the length of time before ylod mean? Does leaving it on standby hurt it somehow? Was it abused before I got it and it was only a matter of time? Is it normal to have no warning?
 
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We'll, I'm an idiot. I left the plastic on the thermal pad I used on the southbridge. It never caused any problems while I was using it regularly though.

Does the southbridge draw power while on standby?
 
Thank you. I just got the stuff I need to connect to the Syscon so I should be able to hook it up in the next couple of days. I checked the psu already so I hope it's just a fuse. I looked, but didn't know what I was looking for, now I do. Unfortunately, I panic purchased 2 more working a01 and two e01. Now I'll have 6 bc ps3s to study. I have two with instant ylod so we'll see what I can see. Maybe I can get one made into a Frankie…
 
Syscon gives me 3013 and about ten 2120, which best case points to a fuse and a couple capacitors. Both ends of the fuse show continuity, but the caps behave funny. I'll try to post some pics after dinner…
 
I'm teaching myself as I go, so any help is appreciated.

Google gave me a Facebook page of a repair shop that says this error is always fuse 6302 and these caps.
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the fuse checks fine, but I don't know what the caps are supposed to be. There's a pair close by that give me a steady reading, but the caps closest to the fuse are all over the place. One the ohms keep rising, the other is dropping. I assume that means they're bad.
 
I did measure both pair of tantalums and got wildly different readings.
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I either need a schematic, or someone to point me in the right direction.
 
I've been running through it for two weeks now. It's a lot to take in and I'm having to go back and search for things I remember seeing after I learn more about it somewhere else. I'm wondering if it would be useful or feasible to have sticky threads specific to certain error codes.
 
search for "PS3 cok 001 service manual" and download it, I won't recommend a specific link, but it's simple to get.

as for the capacitors, for sure there is something burned in his line.
in the capacitors behind the CELL when I measured in my COK 001 I got between 800 and 900 ohms of resistance
 
I've got a couple systems I can use for parts and a few systems I'd like to keep running. I don't see any markings on those brown ones, so where do I find the values? Is that something I would only find in the service manual?
 
Have you used a service manual before? if yes perfect, if not it will complicate a little but you get the hang of it.

this manual has a photo of both sides of the board (computerized, its project, with the tracks) and the components in their respective places. each one has a specific numbering and at the end of the material there is a list with these numbers and next to what this component is as well as its specifications, but not all of them are on this list, others like these capacitors are a few pages above, to find them manually will be almost impossible, I recommend that you use Microsoft Edge to open the PDF of the file, because it has a magnifying glass where you write the component code (example, PS6001 for a fuse, among others) and the computer will look for the number in the PDF, It's not difficult, but if you need help call.
 
I was just looking at it and noticed those parts weren't there in the list. The search came back with 0. I'll try again.

Also, I thought I would check the tantalums off the board to see what they would read. The heat gun didn't do anything so I used my iron. The negative side lifted off the pad, but the positive broke off the cap and is stuck to the board and I can't get it to desolder. I've never seen anything like that before…
 
strange, post pictures, maybe I can help you.

some pictures with the value of the capacitors:
1.png
2.png
3.png
4.png
5.png

in photo one and two are the location of the capacitors on the board and the numbers on it that I told you, in photo three is one of the capacitors shown in the photos highlighted in green, it has 22u and 16V values, in photos four and five the capacitors Large SMD inside the red circles of equal sizes are of the same value as in photo 3, 22u by 16V.


notice in photo 3 there is a magnifying glass in the upper left corner, opening the PDF in Edge you click on it and type the component code and it will mark and direct where it is for you (in this case the C6120).
 
Thank you. The search worked for me the second time I opened it. I'm looking at c6320 on mine. It's the same 22u 16v. The one I took off the board is c6344. It labeled 470 but reads 320. The one I left on the board is c6342 and it still reads 16 and the ceramic caps don't give me a good reading. The ohms just keep climbing and dropping.

I should be able to read them in-circuit, yes?
 
None of the smd are shorted, but I can't seem to get a good steady reading on any of them. The ones in your pictures seem to hover aroun 400-500.
 
I don't know what happened, but all the SMDs before the tokins read OL, everything after still gives continuity. I took two off the board and they read OL.
 
Now they're working again. I give up for tonight. The 2x 470s I took off might be the problem. One reads 260 and the other 320. And the empty pads give 16 ohm whether they were on or not.
 
The gray filters below the nec tokins, in a CECHG that they had these filters shorted out and the whole board went together, but I think that's not your case.
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already shows if your multimeter is reliable the values it shows?
 
It's a good multimeter my father-in-law gave me years ago. I almost exclusively use it on electric guitar to measure pots and caps, and the occasional amplifier repair. Last time I really used it was to set the voltage on a new laser for a PlayStation 1001. I'm not sure why I can't get a steady read on any of the smds. I think I put new batteries in last year. Could they affect its reliability?

Tomorrow, I should be taking delivery of a working A01 that I can compare values with, but I would still like to get this one working since I already did the delid and have all my old PlayStation 1 & 2 saves on it.
 
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