PS2 How to burn properly a disc?
- Thread starter Md Hesam
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@Md Hesam : I really do not mean that offensive!
The best way to accomplish your goals is, to understand what's actually written in all those tutorials, texts and also replies directed at you.
Watching some movies in English certainly helps (if you have no one around you, speaking English).
Use Google and the board's search-engine and try to find some answers to your questions on your own, before asking for everything (to be served to you).
Just READ, READ, READ! We all had to go through that at least once!
The best way to accomplish your goals is, to understand what's actually written in all those tutorials, texts and also replies directed at you.
Watching some movies in English certainly helps (if you have no one around you, speaking English).
Use Google and the board's search-engine and try to find some answers to your questions on your own, before asking for everything (to be served to you).
Just READ, READ, READ! We all had to go through that at least once!
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jolek
Senior Member
Let's put it in differently...
In method above posted in YouTube you can burn almost anything.
You also wanted to know will it work on PS2.
Lifespan of PS2 was between 2000–2013, so it is quite old console.
Laser lens in most PS2 are picky.
In my experience low quality disc will someday kill it (laser), faster than it is suppose to be
and you also might have problems with loading\reading data from it.
Burner, write speed it is also important, for some burners 4x is optimum, for some 6, 8, 12...16.
Although I'm always suggesting to write disc at lowest speed, at least for test.
Do not use laptop burner, mostly they have got lowest quality.
I've also asked about quality of YDD discs...
Let say, do not put in PS2.
BTW autor of a video in the end do not wrote any disc...
In method above posted in YouTube you can burn almost anything.
You also wanted to know will it work on PS2.
Lifespan of PS2 was between 2000–2013, so it is quite old console.
Laser lens in most PS2 are picky.
In my experience low quality disc will someday kill it (laser), faster than it is suppose to be
and you also might have problems with loading\reading data from it.
Burner, write speed it is also important, for some burners 4x is optimum, for some 6, 8, 12...16.
Although I'm always suggesting to write disc at lowest speed, at least for test.
Do not use laptop burner, mostly they have got lowest quality.
I've also asked about quality of YDD discs...
Let say, do not put in PS2.
BTW autor of a video in the end do not wrote any disc...
Hey guys, when looking for "Verbatim Taiyo Yuden" I am not finding them but I am finding ones like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-CMC-...734591?hash=item285448947f:g:d2oAAOSwM79apqjqj
Or these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Pack-...212020?hash=item286308c934:g:Gk8AAOSwWUtbbB3V
Are they the same? Or should they be avoided?
Or these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Pack-...212020?hash=item286308c934:g:Gk8AAOSwWUtbbB3V
Are they the same? Or should they be avoided?
The first is from CMC (made in Taiwan).
I am not sure, what they mean with 'Powered by TY Technology' tho'...
The second one is the same, but a smaller spindle IMO.
The Taiyo Yuden - Verbatim I used back in the days, did not have a 'TYG' Disc-ID, but only a 'TY'...
On another note, the different 'AZO' of Verbatim are recommendable... I think 'Advanced AZO' or 'Metal AZO' was good.
I am not sure, what they mean with 'Powered by TY Technology' tho'...
The second one is the same, but a smaller spindle IMO.
The Taiyo Yuden - Verbatim I used back in the days, did not have a 'TYG' Disc-ID, but only a 'TY'...
On another note, the different 'AZO' of Verbatim are recommendable... I think 'Advanced AZO' or 'Metal AZO' was good.
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jolek
Senior Member
From what I remember in this year Verbatim was bought by CMC.
I never tried these "new" CMC Pro from Taiyo Yuden...
I only remember that Verbatim from CMC Magnetics Corp. were literally s***.
I wasted so many of these discs that at some point I lose faith in Verbatim.
Today it'll be hard to find Verbatim Taiyo Yuden, but...
What about Verbatim Mitsubishi:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/80135/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Verbatim+Mitsubishi&LH_TitleDesc=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&rt=nc&Type=DVD%2DR&_dcat=80135.
I never tried these "new" CMC Pro from Taiyo Yuden...
I only remember that Verbatim from CMC Magnetics Corp. were literally s***.
I wasted so many of these discs that at some point I lose faith in Verbatim.
Today it'll be hard to find Verbatim Taiyo Yuden, but...
What about Verbatim Mitsubishi:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/80135/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Verbatim+Mitsubishi&LH_TitleDesc=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&rt=nc&Type=DVD%2DR&_dcat=80135.
sandungas
Developer
I agree with most what @TnA said
The good verbatim AZO was for CDs though :P
For DVDs i always used verbatim too (made by Mitsubishi Chemicals Company)
For burning DVD software i used the infamous DVDdecrypter... and later IMGburn (are the same)
And for CD i used a veeery old version of cloneCD (before the company was bought by other company and they rewriten the app)
And for the recorder i always used pioneer 3,5" drives.... because the success ratio was very high... also because was cheap
Later i realized that pioneer drives was working fine for XBOX360 games
And latelly i did learn there is a project to make decrypted copies of PS3 BD discs on PC... and the list of drives compatibles with it is limited... i dont know if there was some pioneer drive in it... but i remember there was a few made by LG... eventually the same could happen at some point for PS4 discs or PS5
So... dunno, but for people like us that likes to mess around with consoles it seems the 2 best brands are pioneer and LG (but only a few models, and at this point i dont know which ones)
*And i always burned PS3 discs at 4x max ! (never more than 4x). Actually i remember to burn some at 1x speed and 2X :P
The good verbatim AZO was for CDs though :P
For DVDs i always used verbatim too (made by Mitsubishi Chemicals Company)
For burning DVD software i used the infamous DVDdecrypter... and later IMGburn (are the same)
And for CD i used a veeery old version of cloneCD (before the company was bought by other company and they rewriten the app)
And for the recorder i always used pioneer 3,5" drives.... because the success ratio was very high... also because was cheap
Later i realized that pioneer drives was working fine for XBOX360 games
And latelly i did learn there is a project to make decrypted copies of PS3 BD discs on PC... and the list of drives compatibles with it is limited... i dont know if there was some pioneer drive in it... but i remember there was a few made by LG... eventually the same could happen at some point for PS4 discs or PS5
So... dunno, but for people like us that likes to mess around with consoles it seems the 2 best brands are pioneer and LG (but only a few models, and at this point i dont know which ones)
*And i always burned PS3 discs at 4x max ! (never more than 4x). Actually i remember to burn some at 1x speed and 2X :P
Berion
Developer
I smell those cyanide compounds here from this fire. I put it right after "reflow" made by - or I should say - in - oven. Still I saw much worst things like running greyhound with doll on top, or iPhone in blender. I never know that word anything could have so large meaning. And this is somehow... sad. Human stupidity.
- - -
DVD+R have additional correction data as I remember but PS2 ODDs mostly don't like them. If You must use it, change booktype/bitsetting to DVD-ROM. Also worth to mention are special kind of DVD+R, known as DVD+M (old terminology but I like it more) or DVD+R M-Disc. None of the PS2 read DVD-RAM, and mostly none DVD-RW or DVD+RW.
Oh, and CD+R doesn't exist.
sandungas
Developer
@Joonie i did learn this from you, can you post the link to the project to make decrypted copies of PS3 BD games on PC ?
If i remember right it was hosted in github, at some point you posted a link here in the forum where they have a list of the compatible BD drives
Im just asking for curiosity sake, im not sure if it matters for PS2... but initially that "feature" is something cool because that drives can access areas of the disc that is imposible to reach by other drives
Incase there is a pioneer in that list (i dont remember) i would go for it.... and as second alternative i would get an LG of that list
Berion
Developer
@sandungas Decrypted? Are You sure? How? It must involved in ODD firmware hacking (like i.e Kreon hacks of some ancient Samsungs to see XC and X360 discs). However encrypted can be done in mostly BD ODDWs (depend on main chip, I can't remember but some special line of Mediatek + fw see filesystems etc. of PS3 BD-ROM).
I have a LG which read PS3 games. If some of You want some tests (not involving fw flashing :P) just ask.
I have a LG which read PS3 games. If some of You want some tests (not involving fw flashing :P) just ask.
Whuuuatth? :O
I didn't even heard of that! THX for the info!
Actually they still seem to be produced at the same facility, where the old CMC-discs came from (see 'Made in Taiwan'), but they are probably using TY-Equipment for the producion now... So... not TY-Discs, but CMC-Discs, made with TY-Equipment.
Indeed! Not sooo bad actually, but compared to the TY and MCC-Discs, definitely!
True, but MetalAZO or AdvancedAZO was available for both (not sure which one)!
I have some backups from 2002 on press-releases of the very first DVD-Rs (well actually Version 1.1/4.38GB, 2.4x and 4x) from Verbatim (MCC) and they still work well!
The same, except for the missing/removed CSS-Unscrambling...
If I remember correctly, that was CloneCD 4.2.0.2 or so...
Naaah... You can update to the newest Version, really. I am a long-term-user and supporter of this program and know it quite well. It has the best writing-engine IMO!
Both apps support 'Laser Power Calibration' (CCD) or 'Optical Power Calibration'/OPC (IMGBurn), which should be turned on!
Me too, lol! Well... Not 3.5", but Pioneer...
They also automatically booktype discs as DVD-ROM, which is quite important for a lot of older disc-drives!
Back in the days (2003-2005), I used an A05/105 with an RPC1 and speed-hacked firmware.
That might be related to them booktyping the disc's 'DVD-ROM', but I am not certain about it.
Didn't MultiMan decrypt the specific content?
Oh! You mean, so you can dump it directly via a PC!
There probably are still other good brands, but these produce good results with good discs! Well... LGs writers are varying heavily in quality, but they sometimes can be used for funky stuff like dumping any disc, like a GC-Disc... Pioneer however produced good (written) results in every case, but cannot be used for these funky things.
Well... BDs, DVDs and CDs are similar, but still different kind of media...
Well... If you do it right, with a 'sandbank' or similar and heat it up to the desired temp, this actually does work o.k.'ish! It doesn't replace a real reflow-station tho'.
?
Correct!
I actually have one of these M-Disc-Writers for the 'Millennial Discs' and @sandungas will like it even more, because it is from LG!
Correct!Oh, and CD+R doesn't exist.
I would like to see/use that too!
That most certainly would not change anything for PS2-Games... They can be dumped correctly, but the Writers change the ECC-Data (a.k.a. Protection-wobble), so that the result is close to or is '0'.
On CDs, it is possible to copy that onto a CD-R, with a cracked FW... (I doubt that's possible on a DVD+/-R, tho'.)
SO PS1-Games and PS2-CD-Games actually can be written onto CD-R and the console will treat it like an original disc, even without a modchip!!!
Me too.
Hm... I don't know much about the specific protection of the disc...
I just ever loughed at Sony for their BSD/Linux-Implementation on the PS3 (the ecosystem, including hooks and the XMB), essentially allowing mounting of different folders and ISOs... I even wrote, that ISOs are possible (to be mounted) in a similar fashion like the folder-backups, back when there was no ISO-Support!
jolek
Senior Member
Here are some links:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/14597/cmc-buys-verbatim-assets-from-mitsubishi,
http://www.hughsnews.ca/cmc-magneti...torage-media-business-from-mitsubishi-0059304.
IMO they were bad, I even had a problem with writing Linux images and other stuff on them...
Even verification sometimes ended with failure in different burners.
So I ended with buying Sony DVD-+R (RitekF16) at least for PC.
In ImgBurn as Manufacturer should be shown as RITEKF1.
THX!
Well, bad yes, but not outright shit!
My discs ever verified correctly on my Pioneer-Drives, but it might have to do with the fact that I ever use Laser power calibration...
Yes, Ritek usually work as well... I think the 'G04'-die/substrate was the most compatible with PS2's and old XBOXs from Ritek.
Berion
Developer
@TnA
Indeed but only DVD lines.
Running is not mean there is no CRC errors or Jitter/PIE/PIF peaks. Those kind of technologies start to "data rotting" today.
MultiMAN can also making encrypted copies. Just not from Game menu but Video menu + DDA option must be turned on. Just FYI. ;]
But in oven? The same oven when You making dishes? That's the main point of stupidity in this method.
Additional to software side but I don't remember details and I cannot even say it is true.
M-Disc are only one kind of disc, and it is DVD. Their BD line is exactly the same as ordinary BD-R HTL + extra pay. Those DVDs are top shelf product.
They cannot be. PSX ODD checks also ATIP as I remember.
PS3BD-ROM have key in area unreachable by ordinary ODD/ODDW, which is used by PS3 to decrypt executables from this disc (so it is extra encryption layer). There are for sure other but hardware protections, as always was and be. ;]
Indeed but only DVD lines.
Running is not mean there is no CRC errors or Jitter/PIE/PIF peaks. Those kind of technologies start to "data rotting" today.
MultiMAN can also making encrypted copies. Just not from Game menu but Video menu + DDA option must be turned on. Just FYI. ;]
But in oven? The same oven when You making dishes?
That's the main point of stupidity in this method.Additional to software side but I don't remember details and I cannot even say it is true.
M-Disc are only one kind of disc, and it is DVD. Their BD line is exactly the same as ordinary BD-R HTL + extra pay. Those DVDs are top shelf product.
They cannot be. PSX ODD checks also ATIP as I remember.
PS3BD-ROM have key in area unreachable by ordinary ODD/ODDW, which is used by PS3 to decrypt executables from this disc (so it is extra encryption layer). There are for sure other but hardware protections, as always was and be. ;]
jolek
Senior Member
Well, bad yes, but not outright shit!
For me when verification ended with failure, discs are really hard to read, it is something more than bad...
I don't know maybe it was "manufacturing batch error"...
Currently situation might be different...
Although I never had this problem with $ony for PC.
What are you referring to? The Ritek G04? Well, that disc-id is obviously for a DVD (look up disc-ID-list).
Well, but I didn't wrote 'running', but 'verification' (after burning/writing) was ever successful!
This does exclude CRC and Jitter-possibly (not Jitter in the physical sence because PIE/PIF C1/C2-Error-rate is also derived from a physical Jitter, but a 'logical Jitter' like a non-correctable write/read-error)!
Indeed, but these are correctable errors, but it should be kept as low as possible as well. High rates of these correctable errors cause long loading-times, stuttering FMV, puts a high strain on the laser and possibly can cause a disc to not work at all. This also is heavily dependent on the reading ODD and it's condition (how good it can still read discs, etc.).
True... They still can last for quite a while, if they have a good coating/shielding and if you don't expose them to too much sunlight.
The die/substrate-quality is crucial as well for long living data on optical discs:
- Pressed silver don't have a photo reactive chemical substrate and are pressed, so their data lasts longest
- M-Discs have a rather 'stone like' material
- Recordable (CD-R DVD+-R and DL) discs have a photoreactive chemical layer, which can be 'strengthened' with things like AZO (so they are degrading much slower, even with exposure to sunlight).
- RW's have a rather crystalline material (LCD anyone?, lol... Well it is different, but it still kind of reminds me to it. It also reminds me a bit to glass in some regard.)
- forgot about 'RAM'-discs... Sorry.
Oh! That's interesting! I just don't know, what I would need an iso for, where a crucial part for decryption is missing...
Entirely possible! Lol
As a matter of fact, I even have one of these smaller 'Severin'-ovens, a lot of people were using for that.
They showed the method in an old 'c't Hacks' Magazine (now known as 'Make')!
Nooo, that would be quite disgusting, lol.The same oven when You making dishes?
I don't need to eat the fumes coming from the PCB...
It is really hard to decipher, what you are referring to in some cases.
Your information is encrypted and the key is hidden somewhere, where I cannot reach it! :'-D
I ought to remember that was the intended media, but think they also released those for CD and BD. I will have to look that up.
Anyway... I have an M-Disc DVD-Writer (LG GH24NSD1 [I suppose D1 or NSD1 is the FW.]).
I am not sure about BDs, but it is certainly a good recordable MediaType (for DVDs), IMO.
Are you sure? All models?
...if so, is it implemented in hardware or only in software.
If it is only software, than those games which check it would probably not work, because I think it is not possible to patch the image correctly (I might be wrong on that.).
There definitely is a method of copying CDs... It was not possible for DVDs! If I find it, I attach the PDF or link!
Yes, but if that's the only Hardware-wise protection, then... @Sony 'Your security is...'meh'!'
Indeed, but that never happened to me, even when I got a batch from CMC.
Like I said... Turn OPC/LPC 'on' (wherever supported)!
What's really bad, were those TDK which I bought new and showed 'full' on every single writer I had tried and MediaMarkt wouldn't take them back, because the package was already opened... I thought... 'Are you nuts?! Of course the package was opened... How else should I've noticed, that they are faulty?!'
Not a single one of those discs worked...
They did not even want to be written to, after some more updates to my FWs and also not almost 5 years later with various other drives.
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