PS3 NoPS2 on a CECHA00, question about 1.8V_RSX_FBDDQ

[hrist]

Hi, i have a CECHA00 that had the 10x A0202120 & 1x A0213013 combo errors. It had indeed a short on 1.7V_MISC (thanks wiki!) and was fixed by replacing C6320.

Console worked then but failed running a demanding game with 1002 errors, they seemed to be fixed replacing the tokins on the bottom side of the PCB with tantalizers as usual but funnily still got 1002 after some playtime.
I decided then to also replace the tokins of the other side and the console ran flawlessly... until i tried a PS2 game.

PS2 games do boot and sometimes even go inside FMV or even start menu to mostly hang there.

I know NoPS2 is the dreaded PS3 fault to still conquer but i definitelly want to give it a try with my limited knowledge and maybe learn something in the process.

I prepared the faulty PS3 and a working one running a PS2 game at the same time and compared all the related voltages voltages around the PS2 part. Everything matched except +1.8V_RSX_FBDDQ.

The working PS3 is giving 1.8V as intended but the failing one is giving 2V.

Looking a the schematics i decided to swap Q6304 from a donor board but i'm still getting the same voltage afterwards.

So I deciced to stop there with some questions.

-Its it normal to need to swap all the RSX tokins to get rid of 1002 errors?
-Do the voltage difference on +1.8V_RSX_FBDDQ have any sense? Can it be really related to my NoPS2 behaviour?
-Q6304 seemed to be the culprit on the generation of 1.8V_RSX_FBDDQ but as i was unable to get any change after his replacement... should i do the same with Q6302 and Q6302 or there is something i'm missing?

Thank you!

 

[Cheshire UK]

-Its it normal to need to swap all the RSX tokins to get rid of 1002 errors?
Thank you!

When I get any PS3 consoles, I usually replace all the NEC Tokin capacitors, even if there are no error codes like 1001 or 1002. Taking them apart, delidding, and replacing all the NEC Tokins has become my standard procedure for these older consoles.

On the subject of NEC Tokins, I often see burn marks inside them. To me, this is a clear sign of a capacitor that's been running for a long time and will eventually need to be replaced. Since the board is already out, I figure, why not just do the whole job?

That's just my personal opinion on the matter.

Edit:
See the new video (01-Oct-2025) released by Rip Felix on the subject:

Cheers

M

 

[hrist]

Since the board is already out, I figure, why not just do the whole job?

Noted! I was under the wrong impression then.