PS2 Question about WinHiip...

@Peppe90: This gap-issue is NOT 'for all'... It is ONLY 'for those' who don't know that they cannot attach the Adapter like an original adapter, because it is not perfectly copied off...

However! Attaching it non-parallel first and then sliding the other side in (i.e. Bottom first, top thereafter) does allow all of these these adapters on all ExpansionBay-Models to fit in (quite tight, but without cutting, without a gap and without some connection- or break off pins-issues, some people reported)!


@SoloNoco: Yes, that small gap is quite normal... I will detach the GameStar-Adapter and show you how a 'big gap' looks (while the HDD is often still working) + hold a means to measure the millimeters close to it.

Yes, your new HDD is faster and your conclusions (or assumptions) about it is/are correct as well!
 
SoloNoco said:
Here's mines... The gap looks alot bigger in the picture than it does in real life, but that's as tight as I can get it, without putting insane pressure on the screws. I like to leave it a tiny bit of play on the screws, once I feel it securely in.

What are the kind of issues one could face if they're not in correctly? I mean apart from the HDD not being picked up, what would the benefits be of having it loose, compared to having it tight?

I heard on one forum, a guy was having game crashes, and the answer was to tighten the screws, & if I remember correctly, he said it fixed the issue... I would have expected, if all of the pins aren't touching correctly, the HDD would just fail to initialise in the first place...

Also off topic, since I switched to my 1TB drive, alot of the games that worked perfectly on my 160GB drive, now need compatibility modes & UDMA changes to run (I've found UDMA 3 to fix so many of them it's insane) could this be due to the NA connection, or is my new HDD too new, & possibly spinning a little too fast, so UDMA 3 is feeding the data a little slower & in-turn fixing the issue?
518d374ff283cc36ee7895c4901045a4.jpg


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Click to expand...

I think your 160 IDE HDD was slower. Btw most games don't need to lower the DMA speed.

This is what I was talking about:

sataGSNA.jpg


- You have first to uncrew the 6 screws to remove the metal plate.
- Where you see the 2 rectangulars you have to cut it.
- Where you see the 2 circles you have to press the "stairs" inwards (with a split screwdriver or so).

This way the NA will fit like a original one.
@TnA Try this out on one of your NAs and let me know :D
 
@RandQalan Yeah I tried mixtures of modes 1, 2 & 6 + others, & they worked great back when I was using USB & also for games with audio issues like Klonoa 2 (mode 1 & 6 I think fixed it) but after upgrading to this 1TB, I've been heading to UDMA 3 as the first point of call because I noticed alot of games got worse with modes on.

Say for instance I had a game that booted, logos, intro FMV, main menu, but then crashed on the new game loading screen, I'd try a mixture of modes, but they all seemed to make things even worse, "black screens" crashing on the logos. Even if I reseted the console to let OPL start as new and let go of the old cache it may have been holding from the previous game, but UDMA 3 was like a godsend man, as soon as I turned it on, the games were running better than their disc counterparts! I'm kinda shocked that throughout all my research when I first started with this, UDMA & MDMA didn't get more of a mention, alot of forums & tutorials I watched, completely skipped past them. But I guess it's only really worth mentioning if you get the odd game that needs data fed a a certain speed, or if like me you buy a HDD that's just a little too speedy.

@Peppe90 Man I don't think I'm ready for that kind of commitment right now [emoji23] buying the NA was annoying, everyone on eBay was dropshipping them, I'd die if I somehow messed up, & had to wait a week or two for another one to come. (plus again, my pockets got moths in them)

@TnA Thanks man, but you don't have too if it's risking damage.

Man I hate taking the NA out, everytime I have another batch of games to install, and I unscrew it, and you get that, kinda stiff reaction from it, like it doesn't want to come out of the hole, man! Scary times.

It's even worse when your using an old HDD, and all the capacitors & stuff are on the board, but on the outside, so ur careful trying not to get them caught on anything.

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yea Klonoa works best with DMA Single-word Mode 0 or 1 my HDD was PATA 72000 rpm so had to slow this thing down a lot
 
RandQalan said:
yea Klonoa works best with DMA Single-word Mode 0 or 1 my HDD was PATA 72000 rpm so had to slow this thing down a lot
Click to expand...
Yeah I heard 5400 rpm supposedly works better for the PS2? Idk.

Here's all I know, I don't have the cash for a 2TB right know, & if I did, I'm more in need of a new phone (currently using Android Lollipop & the old ass UI is starting to depress me).

But right now, I'm happy as hell with my 1TB :)

Of the 231 games currently on there, only 4 aren't working...

Jak & Daxter
Jak 2
Jak 3
& Splinter Cell Pandora Tomorrow

I fixed Splinter Cell Chaos Theory & Double Agent with custom elfs 'SC3_OFF.ELF' & SC4 respectively.

But it seems Pandora Tomorrow doesn't have a secondary elf in it to boot from, so I'm at a loss there.

And I heard the Jak games can all be fixed with an older Vanilla version of OPL so I'll get on that soon.

I'm just focused on installing the rest atm. I still get that hyped feeling everytime I boot my console & it takes me straight to OPL, I always have to hold the down button & let it scroll through the list while I sit there, amazed [emoji23] :D might have to remove the background art for all the games though, as it makes me dizzy when it shows up & you can't read the list, I wish there was an option to turn the background art On/Off but keep the Game case art. Cause I don't really want to completely remove all the backgrounds, because I like the Netflix kinds vibe it gives.

Sorry again to anyone reading this, I write alot, I just got so much I want to say, I never really had anyone to talk to about this stuff.

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SoloNoco said:
@Peppe90 Man I don't think I'm ready for that kind of commitment right now [emoji23] buying the NA was annoying, everyone on eBay was dropshipping them, I'd die if I somehow messed up, & had to wait a week or two for another one to come. (plus again, my pockets got moths in them)
Click to expand...
SoloNoco said:
Man I hate taking the NA out, everytime I have another batch of games to install, and I unscrew it, and you get that, kinda stiff reaction from it, like it doesn't want to come out of the hole, man! Scary times.
Click to expand...

If you cut those parts the NA will come out very easilly ;)

Unfortunately with the GameStar NA you can't install/extract games from the Ethernet port, you have to disconnect it from the Ps2 every time. So I suggest you to install all your games in a once, then remove the NA only for emergencies (if you forgot some games or need to extract some to check the MD5).
Remember to shut-off the Ps2 from the rear main power and disconnect the power cord before connect/disconnect the NA to avoid burning the fuse.

You should fit about 350/370 games on a 1tb HDD, or even more depending on the games.

For J&D tpl you need MODE 1+3+6

I don't remember the other 2 atm, probably they're the same.
 
@SoloNoco

The PS7 fuse is for controller vibration. I blew mine because the controller / memory card daughter board was grounding out on the shield.

I just bridged it with solder but I wouldn't recommend doing that lol.
 
Peppe90 said:
If you cut those parts the NA will come out very easilly ;)

Unfortunately with the GameStar NA you can't install/extract games from the Ethernet port, you have to disconnect it from the Ps2 every time. So I suggest you to install all your games in a once, then remove the NA only for emergencies (if you forgot some games or need to extract some to check the MD5).
Remember to shut-off the Ps2 from the rear main power and disconnect the power cord before connect/disconnect the NA to avoid burning the fuse.

You should fit about 350/370 games on a 1tb HDD, or even more depending on the games.

For J&D tpl you need MODE 1+3+6

I don't remember the other 2 atm, probably they're the same.
Click to expand...
Man, I don't think I'll even reach 300, or maybe I'll just about creep over the line, alot of my games are big, DVD9s & 3.5gb+ DVD5s, maybe I'll try shrink a few, but I've not used the tool yet so I gotta test that. & good looking out bro, I'll try modes 1,3&6 in a minute :)

& @Tupakaveli That's what I was going to do tbh. Just solder some wire around the offending fuse, how come you don't recommend it? :o I have heard it's a risky fix...

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@Peppe90 Btw thanks for the tip about plugging out the console, I always forget about that, I always shut it down completely, from the back & such but from now on I'll make sure to unplug too.

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If the fuse blows, it blows for a reason. I only bridged mine because I knew why it happened. It's safer to replace the fuse otherwise you risk damaging something else down the line.

I never unplug the power cable, just switch off at the back and press the power button a few times to drain the capacitors before unplugging the Network Adapter.
 
Ah man, you know of any places that sell them? I did a Google search 'PS2 ps7 fuse' '0.7 amp replacement fuse' but nothing seems to come up except old forums.

I could maybe take one out of the slim, but then I'm leaving that one without vibration, damn..

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Hey, did a bit of research into this a while ago and you'll be surprised to learn (as i was after hunting down replacements) that the fuse types and product numbers are all listed on the pcb in gold writing.

You then just need to google the part number and to buy a commonly available replacement smd fuse (as they are used everywhere).

For reference this is what numbers on the fuses mean:
"50"
Brand: KOA
Type: CCP
Rated Current: 2 A
Fusing Current: 5A
Rating Voltage: 72V
Package Size: 1210
Part NO.: CCP2E50TE

"30"
Brand: KOA
Type: CCP
Rated Current: 1.2A
Fusing Current: 3A
Rating Voltage: 72V
Package Size: 1210
Part NO.: CCP2E30TE

"15"
Brand: KOA
Type: CCP
Rated Current: 0.6 A
Fusing Current: 1.5A
Rating Voltage: 72V
Package Size: 1210
Part NO.: CCP2E15TE

Here are a few notes about how I found replacements that I documented. Including visuals on where to find the part numbers on the pcb board and a few tips on how to remove and solder in a replacement.

http://www.ps2-home.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=3686
 
@Tupakaveli @dekkit So I just read through some of the links, and erm.... I can live without vibration for a while [emoji23] na for real, I'm gonna need to wrap my head around that for quite some time, I'll need to look up the schematics for my particular model too (SCPH-50003) as I heard different models carried different voltages.

It's a trip reading that stuff from a couple years ago needing to know the same kinda things.

Anyways it's much appreciated guys. Feel like I've got the right information spots now. I'm indebted as usual [emoji56]

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