PS3 Super Slim CECH-4001C Boot Loop Error 8002f1f9 Help

[vraxso]

I was testing with a superslim that reached% 43. I extracted the disk at% 39 and it reached% 51 and there it canceled. I tried to extract at% 39 and in a second point, at% 46. This time he reached% 99 but stayed there.
It remains several minutes like this until error 8002f315 appears

has it worked for anyone

 

[AlxDv]

has it worked for anyone

For me, yes it has worked. Which firmware did u use? I have tested this method with the OFW 4.84 but it failed, then trying with HFW 4.84 and perfectly worked.

 

[Pablo77]

Hello, I am very happy, I was finally able to relive a ps3 with error 8002f1f9.
I got another play and using the same format I managed to format the hard disk of my ps3, once the disc was reconnected to my play with module error install firmware 4.85 hfw. After several attempts disconnecting in 39%, 40%, 41%, in one of the failed attempts I got an error 8002f107 (I don't know what it is). Until in the last attempt I let the installation run to pay attention to the light of the rigido, to see when it finished blinking ... and, to my surprise I reach 44% and then 100%.
Sorry if I was not very clear, I am using a translator and wanted to share it as soon as possible for those who have the same problem. Thank you very much to the forum guys who shared this solution.

 

[VTSTech]

CECH-3001B - I did manage to get this thing into Recovery Mode once to feed it a new update PUP. So it's likely trying to install HFW 484 or 485 (formatted hdd again gives recovery boot, def using 4.85.1 hfw)

38% not pulling HDD at all. pulling at 34% errors at 44%, pulling at 43% errors at 52% ....

New behavior Pulling at 31% 8002F107 (Verification Failure)

pull at 48% error at 58% 8002F1F9
pull at 28% error at 46% 8002F1F9
pull at 27% error at 51% 8002F1F9

around 30-34% there is a series of quick reads, only time HDD light 'blinks' in rhythm really. These appear to be hash checks (or it could be 2x Read/Write pair. Is 4 distinct blinks) pulling at this time causes verification error...
--
hdd light on im assuming reading/writing to hdd, light off im assuming reading/writing to flash. Been pulling while light is off for about 3-4 sec. Maybe to screw this up in our favor need to pull while light is on. (Pretty sure it just reattempts the current read/write seq at that point)
--
pull at 29% w\ light on. 8002F107
pull at 33% w\ light on. 8002F1F9
--
The next time the HDD Led lights up after the rhythmic blinks is when the 8002F1F9 error happens.

Pulling during those blinks, gives long hdd led on reinsert (init/detect?) and then the sequence you interrupted repeats. then 8002F1F9 on next hdd led

HDD can only be removed for about 4 seconds before progress halts usually

Time from power button pushed/beep to install failure is 2m55s...
--
Once I get a new battery for my multimeter I'll test the trace connected components see if i can find anything obviously not working. Haven't got the heatshield off the module yet -- eventually failing all else i will likely take the whole thing off and put on another.

 

[nobitakun]

I think this is a little late but I would want to post just to let you know my specific case, because I've been going throughout all over internet searching for this issue and I haven't found a single person in my situation.

I got a PS3 super slim model cech-4001C, and it has that 8002F1F9 problem. So, I tried to use a clap without success, the installation stops always at 38%. I also tried the HDD thing but here is when my particular case comes: The firmware update was launched when the PS3 had no HDD, so it is loading from the 12GB. I tried to plug-unplug an HDD while the console is on and it does not affect the progress at all. I booted the console with the HDD placed in, and the firmware installation starts just as same way, and crashes in the same 38%, unplugging-plugging the HDD does not affect a bit, it only seems to make the loading light be steady orange for a second when I plugin the HDD back, but it does not matter how many times I try and for how long I do, the installation progress does not slowdown not even a bit.

So, now here goes my question, is there a possibility to force the PS3 to go to the HDD in any way? I know PS3 super slims without HDD are damn cheap but I just want to fix this one without too much hassle if it's possible. Investing time is no issue, what I don't want is to invest money, or just as little as possible, because otherwise I would be buying a second hand console, since I can find it for 30-35€ around here.

Thanks for the help!

 

[ElGris]

I think this is a little late but I would want to post just to let you know my specific case, because I've been going throughout all over internet searching for this issue and I haven't found a single person in my situation.

I got a PS3 super slim model cech-4001C, and it has that 8002F1F9 problem. So, I tried to use a clap without success, the installation stops always at 38%. I also tried the HDD thing but here is when my particular case comes: The firmware update was launched when the PS3 had no HDD, so it is loading from the 12GB. I tried to plug-unplug an HDD while the console is on and it does not affect the progress at all. I booted the console with the HDD placed in, and the firmware installation starts just as same way, and crashes in the same 38%, unplugging-plugging the HDD does not affect a bit, it only seems to make the loading light be steady orange for a second when I plugin the HDD back, but it does not matter how many times I try and for how long I do, the installation progress does not slowdown not even a bit.

So, now here goes my question, is there a possibility to force the PS3 to go to the HDD in any way? I know PS3 super slims without HDD are damn cheap but I just want to fix this one without too much hassle if it's possible. Investing time is no issue, what I don't want is to invest money, or just as little as possible, because otherwise I would be buying a second hand console, since I can find it for 30-35€ around here.

Thanks for the help!

That model with the 12GB eMMC came at the same time than the others. And you can't do anything about it because the FW is directly installed on that memory, not the HDD. The only think you can do is replace the wifi/BT module in some repair shop. That it is not so expensive, but maybe you can get another console for the same price.

I also don't recommend to do that HDD trick, that only will damage either your HDD or the controller/protection circuit on that zone.

 

[nobitakun]

That model with the 12GB eMMC came at the same time than the others. And you can't do anything about it because the FW is directly installed on that memory, not the HDD. The only think you can do is replace the wifi/BT module in some repair shop. That it is not so expensive, but maybe you can get another console for the same price.

I also don't recommend to do that HDD trick, that only will damage either your HDD or the controller/protection circuit on that zone.

Well, I saw some tutorials about replacing the module, and the module itself I can get it for less than 10€, second hand, but the issue is about the solder points. If I can apply heat, then remove it, place the other, apply more heat and leave it for 2-3 minutes for the solders to become cold, it would be fantastic, that only takes me 5-10 minutes, but I can't simply do reballing, I don't have the knowledge nor the machine to do that.

Thank you for the fast reply!

 

[ElGris]

Well, I saw some tutorials about replacing the module, and the module itself I can get it for less than 10€, second hand, but the issue is about the solder points. If I can apply heat, then remove it, place the other, apply more heat and leave it for 2-3 minutes for the solders to become cold, it would be fantastic, that only takes me 5-10 minutes, but I can't simply do reballing, I don't have the knowledge nor the machine to do that.

Thank you for the fast reply!

Do you have a soldering station with heat gun? Is that the case, the you can easily do all the job, I can confirm this because I did it. Removing the module is quite difficult but after more than 3 minutes you're going to see how one side is loose. You first apply heat from below for about three minutes in circles, then from above from 3 minutes or more. Apply a good amount of flux and and use a tweezer to see if a side is loose. It's the same principle as doing a regular rework.

After than remove all the old tin, and add new, make sure every "ball" is almost the same. I did this just adding bit of tin with my soldering iron on every contact, so you can get something similar to the original bga. See, there's almost no space between the module and the mobo.

Finally place the module just where the marks are, and apply heat (400ºC for removing and placing). See a lot of videos of reworks, that will help you a lot.

 

[Razzee]

Reviving this thread because my question is related.

I knowingly bought a Super Slim PS3 from an acquaintance with a dead BT/WiFi module (mostly for the controllers that came with it, that are Sony original). Much to my surprise and sadness, it's not on the latest firmware version (4.85), but 4.83, so I can't download any games, update them or connect to the Internet. At the very least, I'd like to perform a system restoration (Restore PS3 System) to delete everything at once, but the original post had me here:

but the previous owner did not format the system, easy to fix just format the system myself right? Reinstall the latest firmware, and that's it I thought.

Does this operation trigger a firmware reinstall as well? What did he mean?

Is it safe to format the PS3 without fear of bricking it?

Also, is there any chance that the antenna went haywire and not the module? I tried to connect the controller from different positions and nothing. What causes this problem on S/SS systems? That person barely used it just to watch stuff on Netflix.

 

[ElGris]

Reviving this thread because my question is related.

I knowingly bought a Super Slim PS3 from an acquaintance with a dead BT/WiFi module (mostly for the controllers that came with it, that are Sony original). Much to my surprise and sadness, it's not on the latest firmware version (4.85), but 4.83, so I can't download any games, update them or connect to the Internet. At the very least, I'd like to perform a system restoration (Restore PS3 System) to delete everything at once, but the original post had me here:



Does this operation trigger a firmware reinstall as well? What did he mean?

Is it safe to format the PS3 without fear of bricking it?

Don't do it. You'll fall in a loop called "error 8002f1f9". In cases like these I truly believe the problematic component is the famous 5v voltage regulator near the module, 'cause it can cause what appears to be a dead module, since the BT/wifi isn't working. But this is not always true. If the regulator is dead, you're not gonna have energy on that module, but if the regulator or even worst, the module goes in short, you're gonna have a blackout. This happens on Slims, SS, and PS4s.

If you have basic electronic knownledge you can check if the regulator isn't giving 5v to the module. Most of the times I've found a dead module, the 5v line is already in short, producing the blackout I mentioned.

 

[Razzee]

Don't do it. You'll fall in a loop called "error 8002f1f9". In cases like these I truly believe the problematic component is the famous 5v voltage regulator near the module, 'cause it can cause what appears to be a dead module, since the BT/wifi isn't working. But this is not always true. If the regulator is dead, you're not gonna have energy on that module, but if the regulator or even worst, the module goes in short, you're gonna have a blackout. This happens on Slims, SS, and PS4s.

If you have basic electronic knownledge you can check if the regulator isn't giving 5v to the module. Most of the times I've found a dead module, the 5v line is already in short, producing the blackout I mentioned.

So a system restoration is a no-no? I better just leave it alone, then. I have a Slim model which I bought from a guy who fixed its module. That was 3 years ago, and it's still working. The only reason I'm afraid of asking him to repair it is that the Slim came with excess of (generic white) thermal paste and a potentiometer. I re-applied the thermal paste twice (once shortly after buying it and again one month ago) with Arctic Silver 5 and it runs very hot. The Super Slim (CECH-4214B) in question had a single owner and was never opened.

My initial idea was to jailbreak it and use a Mayflash Magic-NS to make up for the dead module and the LAN port, naturally, but I just found out that a NoBT/NoBD HFW is basically CFW and therefore impossible to be installed on this model.

So the only thing I can do is to wait for my Slim to die, that I doubt will happen any soon; despite shutting down at high temps sometimes under ambient temp of 35ºC, it is otherwise reliable, just very loud. It's a CECH-3001A unit, by the way, whose fan and heatsink were downgraded* from the previous revision. Seriously, that heatsink is no different from the generic trash used in fake Chinese graphics cards. Once it die, I will pay to repair the Super Slim, so I can use it fully (that guy offers a warranty period of three months, better spent playing rather than idly).

My basic electronic knowledge is restricted to using a multimeter. Thankfully, blackouts have not occurred so far.

* There are comparison photos posted on a thread called "New PS3 Slim model (CECH-3000B) cuts power consumption, weight, small cosmetic change", post #315. I can't post the link here for some reason.

 

[ElGris]

So a system restoration is a no-no? I better just leave it alone, then. I have a Slim model which I bought from a guy who fixed its module. That was 3 years ago, and it's still working. The only reason I'm afraid of asking him to repair it is that the Slim came with excess of (generic white) thermal paste and a potentiometer. I re-applied the thermal paste twice (once shortly after buying it and again one month ago) with Arctic Silver 5 and it runs very hot. The Super Slim (CECH-4214B) in question had a single owner and was never opened.

My initial idea was to jailbreak it and use a Mayflash Magic-NS to make up for the dead module and the LAN port, naturally, but I just found out that a NoBT/NoBD HFW is basically CFW and therefore impossible to be installed on this model.

So the only thing I can do is to wait for my Slim to die, that I doubt will happen any soon; despite shutting down at high temps sometimes under ambient temp of 35ºC, it is otherwise reliable, just very loud. It's a CECH-3001A unit, by the way, whose fan and heatsink were downgraded* from the previous revision. Seriously, that heatsink is no different from the generic trash used in fake Chinese graphics cards. Once it die, I will pay to repair the Super Slim, so I can use it fully (that guy offers a warranty period of three months, better spent playing rather than idly).

My basic electronic knowledge is restricted to using a multimeter. Thankfully, blackouts have not occurred so far.

* There are comparison photos posted on a thread called "New PS3 Slim model (CECH-3000B) cuts power consumption, weight, small cosmetic change", post #315. I can't post the link here for some reason.

You should check the temps of that slim. You need to delid that CELL, but caution, 'cause delidding on slims is harder, as it has little plastic joints under the IHS.

If the PS3 overheats too much, you could try that, but like I said, is VERY risky, as every delid.

Well, if you some day want to repair that SS, I leave you this video. You need to buy a 5v->1.8v voltage regulator, like the guy in the video. Check the datasheet of the regulator before buying it, you need an AMS1117.

 

[seppdroid]

Sorry for bumping,

Ive had the error for some time now. First the controllers desynced and the wireless connection wasn't working and bought a new ps3. Because i knew that with the next update my ps3 would become unusable... Just like when de brdrive is disconnected.

Couple weeks ago i opened this system to see if i could patch it up. Replacing the hdd, cleaning, new thermal-paste, new CMOS battery aka the usual stuff.

After trying to update i expected the error and there it was.

Tried the hdd trick with OFW and HAN. Didn't work... (for me)
So i started up my reflow station and reflowed the bt/wifi chip. I didn't want to wait for it to completely cool down and i booted it up again. Same error at 49 per cent... So i left it to be.

Fast forward to today and i booted it to make a picture for a parts ebay listing and it actually finished the install. I cant remember if it was OFW or HAN but it works... bluetooth and wireless still dont work.

The question now is for others with this problem is what caused it to finish the update.

 

[Papapitbull]

has anybody tried this? the chip is a 463A voltage regulator, I found it in a different thread here in psx-place, this is a possible solution for 8002f1f9 issue, I haven't tried it yet though

 

[sandungas]

Do you have a soldering station with heat gun? Is that the case, the you can easily do all the job, I can confirm this because I did it. Removing the module is quite difficult but after more than 3 minutes you're going to see how one side is loose. You first apply heat from below for about three minutes in circles, then from above from 3 minutes or more. Apply a good amount of flux and and use a tweezer to see if a side is loose. It's the same principle as doing a regular rework.

After than remove all the old tin, and add new, make sure every "ball" is almost the same. I did this just adding bit of tin with my soldering iron on every contact, so you can get something similar to the original bga. See, there's almost no space between the module and the mobo.

Finally place the module just where the marks are, and apply heat (400ºC for removing and placing). See a lot of videos of reworks, that will help you a lot.

Nice post btw
Just incase someone is wondering... is made that way even by professionals
I have a friend working in a official support center of a very popular electronics manufacturer and what he told me is something like this:

A client brings a rare laptop model to the repair shop with a rare probem... after some checks the problem is identifyed and is related with a component that is sodlered with BGA (damn)
So... they have 2 options basically... try to find the reballing stencil needed to do a proper reball of that specific chip... or do it manually pretty much like what you did

Usually the stencil is already in the shop, but sometimes is not because is a chip that doesnt uses to be damaged... so they can try to order it online... wait many days... etc... And thats incase the stencil exists, lol, for small chips maybe you are not going to find an stencil for it

So.. long story short... what they does is to place the chip "turned down" on top of a work table... then they takes one of that bottles full of reballing balls (with the proper diameter) and they solders the balls one by one with a solder iron

After that, the chip have the solder balls soldered into it (but doesnt looks like spherical, are like a dome)
Then they flip the chip on top of the circuit board and they uses the reballing machine or they reflows it (depends of the chip size, if the chip is small a reflow is easyer and good enought, because the result is the same)

--------------------------
Now lets compare this professional method with what you did, the only differences are you soldered the balls to the circuit board (instead of the chip) but this doesnt matters
They solder the balls to the chip because is smaller than the circuit board, so is easyer to handle it when working in it, keep in mind this work requires lot of time to solder all the balls one by one, also before you start doing keep in mind eventually you are going to have some balls that "joins" with other balls when the tin is fluid and you will have to clean that area (with desolder wick), etc... so is a pain

The other difference is you did not used proper BGA balls of the correct diameter... this is a problem because is very important that every ball have the same amount of tin than the others
The goal is to create a lot of "domes" exactly of the same size... by using proper BGA balls this is a lot easyer to achieve
But yeah... it can be achieved also in the way you did it... is just a matter having lot of patience

 

[sandungas]

Btw, inside the wifi/BT module there are basically 3 chips, the biggest one does the logic, other is for data storage, and other is ram
You need to think in the wifi/BT circuit board as an intermediate in between that chips and the main PS3 motherboard, with this i mean... all the "magic" is made by that chips
Additionally to the big chips i mentioned there are a bunch of tiny components... but are capacitors and resitors mostly, the resistors can be checked with a multimeter... and in general if there is some of this tiny components burned it can be checked visually

So... incase you are decided to make some surgery with the wifi/BT module (either with a solder iron or hot air) i suggest to start by removing the metal shield of the wifi/BT module that covers all this components to take a look at them
Are so small that i guess is going to be very tricky to replace them, but anyway is better to take a look at them before desodlering the wifi/BT module completly

 

[ElGris]

Btw, inside the wifi/BT module there are basically 3 chips, the biggest one does the logic, other is for data storage, and other is ram
You need to think in the wifi/BT circuit board as an intermediate in between that chips and the main PS3 motherboard, with this i mean... all the "magic" is made by that chips
Additionally to the big chips i mentioned there are a bunch of tiny components... but are capacitors and resitors mostly, the resistors can be checked with a multimeter... and in general if there is some of this tiny components burned it can be checked visually

So... incase you are decided to make some surgery with the wifi/BT module (either with a solder iron or hot air) i suggest to start by removing the metal shield of the wifi/BT module that covers all this components to take a look at them
Are so small that i guess is going to be very tricky to replace them, but anyway is better to take a look at them before desodlering the wifi/BT module completly

Thanks Sandungas, I had quite luck with that fix in my first attempt haha, but I worked on the module, not the mobo, and quantity of tin was minimum, that reduces a lot the size error, 'cause the module originally looks like it were glued to the mobo, so the distance is almost no existent. I did it in that way using my old chinese soldering iron (the one I used on the other fix btw lol) cause I hadnt bga balls for that fix, and buying them is a pain in the back.. Also, theres an easier way to make a CELL rework, for example, instead of using the soldering iron, put the bgas on the CELL one by one with the pcb painted with flux. Using a microscope could be a lot better. After that heat the CELL pcb with a heatgun at 150°C for a while, then they're soldered but I guess you already knew this.

Usually the module goes in short, or needs a reflow in better situations. And normally, when is in short, the caps will be too. Testing them depends of the module model too, could be easy or difficult.

 

[ElGris]

has anybody tried this? the chip is a 463A voltage regulator, I found it in a different thread here in psx-place, this is a possible solution for 8002f1f9 issue, I haven't tried it yet though

If your console boots, you need to replace that regulator. The replacement is an AMS1117.

You should test if the module if giving you 1.8v in output, if not, then replace it.

 

[sandungas]

Thanks Sandungas, I had quite luck with that fix in my first attempt haha, but I worked on the module, not the mobo, and quantity of tin was minimum, that reduces a lot the size error, 'cause the module originally looks like it were glued to the mobo, so the distance is almost no existent. I did it in that way using my old chinese soldering iron (the one I used on the other fix btw lol) cause I hadnt bga balls for that fix, and buying them is a pain in the back.. Also, theres an easier way to make a CELL rework, for example, instead of using the soldering iron, put the bgas on the CELL one by one with the pcb painted with flux. Using a microscope could be a lot better. After that heat the CELL pcb with a heatgun at 150°C for a while, then they're soldered but I guess you already knew this.

Usually the module goes in short, or needs a reflow in better situations. And normally, when is in short, the caps will be too. Testing them depends of the module model too, could be easy or difficult.

Ohh ok you did work in the module, good, as said it doesnt matters much because the result is the same, but is more convenient to work in the module/chip

And yeah, i forgot to mention that it can be made with hot air... by using hot air (and proper reballing balls) is a lot faster and the amount of tin in every pad is very precise
But is needed to be very careful to dont get too close with the hot air, lol... you know when the tin is fluid if you "blow it" too much all the balls are going to be spreaded away like a liquid and is a disaster (needed to clean up and start again)

I was focusing my attention at the fact that it can be made with a solder iron because my friend told me he did many times with a solder iron, for small chips (less than 20 pads), but even for Southbridges, CPUs or GPUs... and this made me laught a bit (kind of histerical laught) because could be hundreds of pads, lol
But yeah... is just a matter of having lot of patience

 

[Papapitbull]

Hi ElGris, thanks for the tip I'll check that out