Temperatures for Slim [CECH-2504B]?

Instead of repairing my ps3, i've decided to buy another one on ebay. Maybe i'll go for a CECH 2100.
I'll take the parts (the power supply, the switch on button & its ribbons etc..) of the purchased one to test it on my broken one.

Then, i'll know where the problem is with the broken one and i can purchase the hardware required to repair it.

However, if it can't be repaired at all, i will still have the purchased CECH 2100 and can also use the broken one as spare parts.

A second hand ps3 will cost me around $120 on ebay including its shipping.
 
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the_gamerxX9 said:
Instead of repairing my ps3, i've decided to buy another one on ebay. Maybe i'll go for a CECH 2100.
I'll take the parts (the power supply, the switch on button & its ribbons etc..) of the purchased one to test it on my broken one.

Then, i'll know where the problem is with the broken one and i can purchase the hardware required to repair it.

However, if it can't be repair at all, i will still have the purchased CECH 2100 and can also use the broken one as spare parts.

A second hand ps3 will cost me around $120 on ebay including its shipping.
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Yeah you can get a working ps3 for a good price these days i also kept my broken one for spare parts.
Make sure you change the thermal paste when you get it and be careful like i said taking the mobo out and you should be free of problems. Takes time and patience but its worth it. Ive been digging around on tools to remove ihs and how to place them back after removal which I'll give it a shot one day when this ps3 temps will change from what ive seen now. As for now playing singularity and sometime this game freezes on some loading points which is so annoying. I dont think its the console but more like Activisions fault.
 
Opened mine again today.
Removed the ihs board on rsx.
Done it all carefully put thermal paste on the chips etc and ends up having same problem as my other one did thing is i never done this on my other one.

I turn it on and it switches back off right after.
Wtf is the problem with these ps3s?
Anybody know the cause of this?
 
the_gamerxX9 said:
The ihs is a bit difficult to remove on the 2500 compared to the 2000 & 2100.
Click to expand...
Yeah i did remove it on the rsx just cleaned it put thermal paste on the chips put it all back togheter and now its doing the same as my other one was doing.
Ive no idea whats causing this problem and i never changed the thermal paste on the other or remove ihs this is whats puzzling me.
Turns on and then switches off right after. :s
 
the_gamerxX9 said:
The ihs is a bit difficult to remove on the 2500 compared to the 2000 & 2100.
Click to expand...
Hey gamerx9 is this what your other slim is doing after you opened it?
Ive contacted someone and will see him on tuesday see if he can sort this out and if he does see if he can sort out the ihs on the cpu and do it all in one go. I'll keep you posted.
 
Filipe Santos said:
Opened mine again today.
Removed the ihs board on rsx.
Done it all carefully put thermal paste on the chips etc and ends up having same problem as my other one did thing is i never done this on my other one.

I turn it on and it switches back off right after.
Wtf is the problem with these ps3s?
Anybody know the cause of this?
Click to expand...

it can be a number of things but im guessing its going to be down to ur method. 1st what is ur method to removing the IHS on the GPU? im assuming u didnt touch the CPU's IHS?
 
wrx884 said:
it can be a number of things but im guessing its going to be down to ur method. 1st what is ur method to removing the IHS on the GPU? im assuming u didnt touch the CPU's IHS?
Click to expand...
Hi.
no i havent touched the cpu at all i only delided the rsx.
The method i used to remove the rsx plate was by putting some cardboard between the rsx and cpu used a serving butter knife and gently pried it open in the small space in between the samsung chips and also managed to put the knife a bit on top where those samsung chips are and popped it out.
Nothing was scratched.
Then i cleaned it all , applied new thermal paste , reassembled it and consoles blacking out.
 
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Did u put any support under the GPU's bottom side on other side of the motherboard? with out knowing what pressure u used to pry the IHS's from the GPU it can just be simply that u disturbed the BGA site underneath. Provided everything else was put back correctly and not also damaged in the process i would be leaning towards possibly needing a reball on the GPU. Normally i find the slims need a little heat on the IHS to soften the thermal adhesive on the GPUs rams, it helps so less force is needed for better success. Its not always the case but remember the slims thermal adhesive isnt as weak as the fat models so more care should be used.
 
wrx884 said:
Did u put any support under the GPU's bottom side on other side of the motherboard? with out knowing what pressure u used to pry the IHS's from the GPU it can just be simply that u disturbed the BGA site underneath. Provided everything else was put back correctly and not also damaged in the process i would be leaning towards possibly needing a reball on the GPU. Normally i find the slims need a little heat on the IHS to soften the thermal adhesive on the GPUs rams, it helps so less force is needed for better success. Its not always the case but remember the slims thermal adhesive isnt as weak as the fat models so more care should be used.
Click to expand...
I only used a cloth underneath.
Yeah its probably broke and wont be worth the effort to fix it.
I'm pretty much done with slims by now.
Its great you can install cfw and all but most old consoles all need ihs removals and its always a big risk to do it so im looking into buying a superslim instead to avoid this.
 
yeah unfortunately they can be disturbed far to easy but u could try a pressure test on the GPU and see if u get any video displaying. it could confirm what im leaning towards and if so u could get it repaired. This doesn't always work but try putting some thin cards under the metal chassis where the pressure plates screw down so u can try force the BGA site and GPU together more closely. hopefully if any solder balls that rnt making good contact u can briefly by doing this just to see if it'll work. Also give the pressure plates a slight bend too so u can add a little more pressure.
 
wrx884 said:
yeah unfortunately they can be disturbed far to easy but u could try a pressure test on the GPU and see if u get any video displaying. it could confirm what im leaning towards and if so u could get it repaired. This doesn't always work but try putting some thin cards under the metal chassis where the pressure plates screw down so u can try force the BGA site and GPU together more closely. hopefully if any solder balls that rnt making good contact u can briefly by doing this just to see if it'll work. Also give the pressure plates a slight bend too so u can add a little more pressure.
Click to expand...
I'll open it in bit and try that.I'll keep you posted.
If that works then itll need a reball or reflow not sure of the exact term now if not then its something else.
It's really a shame because i had this slim running cfw and all but then the ihs boards need sorted , a guy really cant win this.
Keep in touch.
 
No problem man at least if u can work it out u have some direction with it. Also if it doesn't work with the pressure test on the GPU it could also be the CPU so try that next but dont do them at the same time because if u get it working u wont know which BGA chip it is. These motherboards are a lot thinner too so they are easy to disturb either.
 
wrx884 said:
No problem man at least if u can work it out u have some direction with it. Also if it doesn't work with the pressure test on the GPU it could also be the CPU so try that next but dont do them at the same time because if u get it working u wont know which BGA chip it is. These motherboards are a lot thinner too so they are easy to disturb either.
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Applied more pressure to the rsx and nothing.
Applied more pressure to cell and nothing.
Ive pressed down on the board and bent the clamps a lot more and neither work.
Ps3 just turns on and off right after.
Another one for the scrapyard.
 
Filipe Santos said:
Opened mine again today.
Removed the ihs board on rsx.
Done it all carefully put thermal paste on the chips etc and ends up having same problem as my other one did thing is i never done this on my other one.

I turn it on and it switches back off right after.
Wtf is the problem with these ps3s?
Anybody know the cause of this?
Click to expand...
Dude, i was reading this thread from beginning and i enjoyed most of your posts, overall i agree in most thigns you said :)
Btw, having the RSX a bit over CELL (around 5ºC) is completly normal ingame, but in main XMB in idle for long time both CELL and RSX should be at the same temperature

I bought a CECH-25xx (the move bundle) at launch day, the same day i installed cfw, and at the next month i replaced thermal paste by MX-4, lapped the heatsink surfaces, corpped/modded the PSU to allow more airflow, sealed fan with silicone and sharped his blades, sealed other gaps with foam tape, etc...
And is like that since the first day, lol... with the same thermal paste from 2010 and collecting dust lke a champ

I hope you fix the PS3 or eventually you get another one, you are good with this ;)
The fail you had most probably is what @wrx884 mentioned... while removing the RSX IHS you "flexed" the motherboard or a solder ball under RSX "cracked"
This is why i dont like that method (or any other involving forces) of removing the RSX IHS with a butter knife
 
sandungas said:
Dude, i was reading this thread from beginning and i enjoyed most of your posts, overall i agree in most thigns you said :)
Btw, having the RSX a bit over CELL (around 5ºC) is completly normal ingame, but in main XMB in idle for long time both CELL and RSX should be at the same temperature

I bought a CECH-25xx (the move bundle) at launch day, the same day i installed cfw, and at the next month i replaced thermal paste by MX-4, lapped the heatsink surfaces, corpped/modded the PSU to allow more airflow, sealed fan with silicone and sharped his blades, sealed other gaps with foam tape, etc...
And is like that since the first day, lol... with the same thermal paste from 2010 and collecting dust lke a champ

I hope you fix the PS3 or eventually you get another one, you are good with this ;)
The fail you had most probably is what @wrx884 mentioned... while removing the RSX IHS you "flexed" the motherboard or a solder ball under RSX "cracked"
This is why i dont like that method (or any other involving forces) of removing the RSX IHS with a butter knife
Click to expand...

thanks man.
yeah i done my best im done with this tbh. its two slims now that blacked out on me.
thanks for the compliments btw , even my wife said i know way more than these stupid ass folks at pc repairing shops.
contacted one yesterday explained the problem his answer was :
get another ps3.
i was like seriously?
his answer was oh for all that work its way more expensive than buying another ps3.
these jerkoffs should know better specially if they fix pcs that thermal paste needs changed and the ihs boards need removed and repasted if the stuffs getting old it needs maintance. but yeah thats' pretty much it .
as for me i done my best ill just be getting a superslim and be done with it.
so the temps i was getting on my slim were ok because in XMB they were usually sitting at 55c-60c for both and in game rsx would go higher than the cpu but yeah i had to go further and adventure myself into trying to pry open the ihs on the rsx because i wanted the temps to improve further but no avail and ended up having another fucked up slim.
i wont be messing with them ps3s again and if im to get a superslim ill have to learn my way around hen but at least i wont have to worry about having to remove ihs boards on it.
Now i've no console. Lesson learnt.

Hopefully superslims won't break that easy just by opening them and change thermal paste on top just!
Any advice regarding that?
 
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