PS3 Update fails with error 8002F1F9

[blckbear_]

Hi, my SuperSlim is failing to update, stopping at 49% and giving me error 8002F1F9.
I also noticed that controllers don't sync wirelessly and that Wi-Fi gives error 80130128 when trying to connect or scan for access points.

The Wi-Fi board is probably dead I guess, but if anyone knows any solution or way to test this please tell me.
Thanks in advance!

Some things I was told to try were:
- Changing the CMOS battery (my console has none but it didn't give any problems the two years it was like this)
- Disconnecting and reconnectong the Wi-Fi board antennas
- Reflowing the Wi-Fi board

I didn't try any of those yet as I don't have too much time, but any other recommendation is welcome, I'll keep them in mind when I have the time to tackle this issue.

Edit: Now I notice that I'm stuck in an update loop, f*ck. Is there any way to stop the update loop?

 

[Coro]

Hi, my SuperSlim is failing to update, stopping at 49% and giving me error 8002F1F9.
I also noticed that controllers don't sync wirelessly and that Wi-Fi gives error 80130128 when trying to connect of scan for access points.

The Wi-Fi board is probably dead I guess, but if anyone knows any solution or way to test this please tell me.
Thanks in advance!

Some things I was told to try were:
- Changing the CMOS battery (my console has none but it didn't give any problems the two years it was like this)
- Disconnecting and reconnectong the Wi-Fi board antennas
- Reflowing the Wi-Fi board

I didn't try any of those yet as I don't have too much time, but any other recommendation is welcome, I'll keep them in mind when I have the time to tackle this issue.

Edit: Now I notice that I'm stuck in an update loop, f*ck. Is there any way to stop the update loop?

try to borrow wifi board from working ps3 of similar model. psdevwiki may help see which models would work.

 

[blckbear_]

I don't have a similar board unfortunately, I'll have to look for a replacement online, and it being a SuperSlim I'll have to desolder the board, so I guess I could try a reflow first as I'm going to desolder it anyways in order to replace it.

 

[sandungas]

I don't have a similar board unfortunately, I'll have to look for a replacement online, and it being a SuperSlim I'll have to desolder the board, so I guess I could try a reflow first as I'm going to desolder it anyways in order to replace it.

Before the reflow try to add pressure in the wifi/bt (at both sides of the board), sometimes this helps to restore the electrical connections in the BGA solders

And while doing it install the firmware
If the firmware is installed successfully it means the pressure fixed it temporally... so the next step is a reflow

 

[blckbear_]

So an update:
Yesterday I had the time to begin checking this console, I hooked it up (it's the one that uses the ATX PSU) and it somehow finished updating. I reinstalled HEN and tested Wi-Fi and BT, both working. I guess that having the console sitting for 2 months helped in some mysterious way...

Buuuut then, after disconnecting the console in order to hook it to another TV in another room the BT/Wi-Fi stopped working again...

I'm starting to think that there's some failing component on the BT/Wi-Fi board or that it has a bad BGA or something, as it stopped working after use while being moved.
I will try to add pressure to the board when I get new thermal paste as I have none at the moment. I'm also planning to replace the PSU for a stock PSU as now they're pretty cheap from China, I guess that would remove the uncertainties of using random ATX PSUs.

 

[Fin9ersMcGee]

So an update:
Yesterday I had the time to begin checking this console, I hooked it up (it's the one that uses the ATX PSU) and it somehow finished updating. I reinstalled HEN and tested Wi-Fi and BT, both working. I guess that having the console sitting for 2 months helped in some mysterious way...

Buuuut then, after disconnecting the console in order to hook it to another TV in another room the BT/Wi-Fi stopped working again...

I'm starting to think that there's some failing component on the BT/Wi-Fi board or that it has a bad BGA or something, as it stopped working after use while being moved.
I will try to add pressure to the board when I get new thermal paste as I have none at the moment. I'm also planning to replace the PSU for a stock PSU as now they're pretty cheap from China, I guess that would remove the uncertainties of using random ATX PSUs.

I could possibly be wrong... But I can't see an ATX PSU would be different from any other switching power supply. It takes 110v or 240v AC and switches it to 3.3v, 5v and 12v DC. It's a pretty standardised setup

 

[blckbear_]

I could possibly be wrong... But I can't see an ATX PSU would be different from any other switching power supply. It takes 110v or 240v AC and switches it to 3.3v, 5v and 12v DC. It's a pretty standardised setup

Yup but I tested 3 different ATX PSUs and one of them is always at 11.8V instead of 12, another one reaches 5.4V on the 5V lane, and the other one fluctuates a lot. Keep in mind that I'm not using any name-brand power supplies, so this "erratic" behaviour is to be somewhat expected. The super Slim's PSU outputs 12V and 5.5V.

Another thing that makes me think is a PSU problem is the fact that the BT board is always on expecting a controller to be turned on, so any mishandling of the external PSU could cause issues with the BT board.

But I'm not sure, I'll start testing and see.

 

[Fin9ersMcGee]

Yup but I tested 3 different ATX PSUs and one of them is always at 11.8V instead of 12, another one reaches 5.4V on the 5V lane, and the other one fluctuates a lot. Keep in mind that I'm not using any name-brand power supplies, so this "erratic" behaviour is to be somewhat expected. The super Slim's PSU outputs 12V and 5.5V.

Another thing that makes me think is a PSU problem is the fact that the BT board is always on expecting a controller to be turned on, so any mishandling of the external PSU could cause issues with the BT board.

But I'm not sure, I'll start testing and see.

Ahhhh, yes. A no name, el cheapo PSU. I'd think twice before using it on anything ever again.

Coming from experience, many many years ago I fried practically everything in a PC build because I went full retard and bought a no name PSU for £10 new.
Nowadays, the PSU is one of the first carefully selected components I choose when building new PCs. I definitely don't cheap out on them now. Lol.

 

[blckbear_]

Ahhhh, yes. A no name, el cheapo PSU. I'd think twice before using it on anything ever again.

Coming from experience, many many years ago I fried practically everything in a PC build because I went full retard and bought a no name PSU for £10 new.
Nowadays, the PSU is one of the first carefully selected components I choose when building new PCs. I definitely don't cheap out on them now. Lol.

I had the same thing happen to me lol, now I carefully pick my PSUs.
But for the PS3, I did not even expect the console to work at all, so I was using some PSU I had lying around, a 1998 small form factor 180W PSU from a Tangent Computers office prebuilt. Surprisingly it worked so I kept using that PSU (it also had the benefit of being a smaller PSU). But well, one day I came back home and the console didn't turn on when pressing the PS button. I usually unplugged the console because I didn't trust that much the PSU, but that time the console was left plugged in for days, and also someone moved it, so that's what leads me to believe either a PSU problem or faulty solder ball under the board because of the movement.

Another issue could be the BT/Wi-Fi board's voltage regulator, as receiving power from crappy PSUs may have fried it a little bit, IDK really.

I'll be getting my hands on a stock SuperSlim PSU to finally properly fix that console and see if that solves anything, if not, then I'll start fiddling with the BT/Wi-Fi board.