YLOD after delid

[Hemmek]

So i just delided my PS3, ended up using a razor blade (super thin for shaving) since my painters knifes got delayed.

I can't find anything really wrong with it, a few dings from the razor but nothing bad (on the corner by the glue copper is visible)

Guess there ain't much to be done?
Can it be repaired?
How?

I'm currently looking for another backwards compatible PS3.

Cant figure out how to post images, but took a lot after the second teardown.

What are the odds this one can be repaired?

 

[Dariush Aghaee]

So i just delided my PS3, ended up using a razor blade (super thin for shaving) since my painters knifes got delayed.

I can't find anything really wrong with it, a few dings from the razor but nothing bad (on the corner by the glue copper is visible)

Guess there ain't much to be done?
Can it be repaired?
How?

I'm currently looking for another backwards compatible PS3.

Cant figure out how to post images, but took a lot after the second teardown.

What are the odds this one can be repaired?

If you have delided RSX then it seems like a bga is broken due to the stress you have applied to the chip. CELL problems usually end up GLOD not YLOD. your best option to find out what's going on is to read the syscon errlogs. But remember by the mean time any known sufficient repair costs a lot or requires expensive facilities and skills.

 

[Hemmek]

So now i think i will give up the PS3 route.

Second console YLOD!

This one, it was working FINE, i was gaming and all off a sudden YLOD. (3beeps red light blinking)

Tried to reboot Red green Yellow (3 beeps) Red light flashing.,

I handled this Delid (a few days back) with the outmost care, and no marks was made, no visible damadge, made sure to not press against the other side of the IHS to not put any force what so ever at the chip.

After taking it back apart, perfect spread of the thermal paste on all surfaces, all the new thermalpads had a slight indentation.

And since PS3xploit has been down i have not been able to Jailbreak (hence not been able to change fan speeds or see the temps)

Any ideas what so ever what i can do now?
Honestly, i am about to give up on the whole PS3 project, toss the two now dead concoles to hell and try to forgett it all.

 

[Dariush Aghaee]

Well come to the party.
I fully understand your PS3 pain/nightmare/headache.
I opened up mine to apply new thermal paste. Delided, applied regular thermal paste and tested it. It fired up fine no problem. Then I opened it once again to apply liquid metal under IHSs. Applied the shit, assembled the console and... boom GLOD!!!
XDR RAM not initialized error. no one can trace that error down. It just dead on my hand.
if you want to forget fat PS3 I never try to change your mind. Do it. IMO Don't waste anymore time, money and happiness on it. Those devices are kind of a true cancer.
But for the fan control and temperatures, you can install HEN which works fine right now.

Edit: I have two other dead BC PS3 on my hand. Where repaired several times but the above mentioned one was factory sealed.

 

[Mario87]

Then I opened it once again to apply liquid metal under IHSs. Applied the shit, assembled the console and... boom GLOD!!!

Are you sure the liquid metal didn't escape / leak out? If that is escaped and made contact with anything conductive then it would be game over. Liquid metal is not worth it, PS5 has had a lot of engineering R&D put into it to use liquid metal on such a device in mass production and you can see the various layers they use on that to minimise leakage, however, even despite that I have seen a recent video where it still leaked out onto the capacitors on the APU / SoC and resulted in a beep on beep off failure.

 

[Timbo9876]

Measures can be taken to ensure the liquid metal doesn't escape, see link at end of post.

The PS3 is an extremely fragile system and you can't just open it up from cold and get down to the motherboard. This is because the thermal paste, when fully hardened, can act like glue on the heat spreaders. This means when you try to separate the heat spreader from the motherboard it doesn't want to separate and the consequence is it pulls on the CPU and GPU substrate. This can cause a system error, sometimes the error is immediate, sometimes it takes a few days to show up. So basically you can damage the console just by simply opening it. The link below address this issue and has a few tips to help you avoid this.

It seems advisable not to use heat when doing a CPU de-lid. The pressure to cut into the sealant combined with the heat can pull on the CPU substrate and this again can cause system errors. So even though I use heat in the link below, I don't recommend using heat anymore.

Once you have performed a full de-lid on the CPU and GPU I recommend unflexing the motherboard. This is achieved by placing the MB on a hot plate and slowly heat the MB to 160 degrees over a 15 minute period. Let the board cool down naturally and don't work on it until its stone cold, this will take around an hour. This can help to prevent pending system errors due to board warping. This is because you have straightened the MB so the CPU and GPU substrate that may have been hanging on by a thread is now comfortably connected and this is now a procedure I use on all de-lids.

 

[P10God]

So i just delided my PS3, ended up using a razor blade (super thin for shaving) since my painters knifes got delayed.

I can't find anything really wrong with it, a few dings from the razor but nothing bad (on the corner by the glue copper is visible)

Guess there ain't much to be done?
Can it be repaired?
How?

I'm currently looking for another backwards compatible PS3.

Cant figure out how to post images, but took a lot after the second teardown.

What are the odds this one can be repaired?

Back in the early days of PS3 Repair heat was your friend, (a reflow or reball).

If the solder underneath the CPU and GPU needs to be repaired then ripping the top off isn't going to fix anything, thus not repairing your YLOD Issue.
People always keep telling me that a reflow is only a temporary fix, but I've got consoles still running fine after 10 years so........
A reflow is fine if you do it correctly.

 

[Timbo9876]

But are you actually reflowing the console? You need a professional work station or the expertise to make one to perform an actual reflow. It's more likely that what infact you was actually doing is correcting the board warping, in other words the heat applied flexed the motherboard back to how It should be thus reconnecting the BGA under the CPU/GPU. Depending on how badly warped the MB was will depend on how long the fix lasts. My current PS3 suffered from this, I used to heat to reflex the board and its still going many years later, however I know other people where the fix only lasted a few months and this was because the MB hard gone to badly out of shape that the fix was only temporarily.

 

[P10God]

But are you actually reflowing the console? You need a professional work station or the expertise to make one to perform an actual reflow. It's more likely that what infact you was actually doing is correcting the board warping, in other words the heat applied flexed the motherboard back to how It should be thus reconnecting the BGA under the CPU/GPU. Depending on how badly warped the MB was will depend on how long the fix lasts. My current PS3 suffered from this, I used to heat to reflex the board and its still going many years later, however I know other people where the fix only lasted a few months and this was because the MB hard gone to badly out of shape that the fix was only temporarily.

This is EXACTLY what I just mentioned above.

You DON'T need "a professional workstation" if you know what you're doing, which I do.

I actually reflowed the processors of the boards with a 90% success rate, the boards weren't warped at all.

A Reball would then be required in the case of the other 10%, which would require a proper way to do it, but at $10k (10 years ago), it wasn't justified.

 

[Timbo9876]

Really sorry but I strongly disagree. For you to melt the solder balls under the CPU and GPU you would need a professional rework station. You would also need the correct heat profile for the pre heat otherwise you would kill the console beyond repair.

It's highly likely what your actually doing is flexing the MB so the BGA reconnects to the CPU and GPU. The 10 percent your so called "reflow" can't fix its highly likely this is because the 90nm RSX processor has died which is common on these consoles (needs Frankenstein mod or replacement 90nm RSX)

Unless you recorded your reflow on have actual evidence you melted the solder with heat sensor showing the temps, I simply don't believe you. I also know what I am doing and wouldn't attempt an actual reflow without the correct tools to do the job. Simply saying you know what your doing simply isn't good enough to persuade me to believe you actually performed a reflow. So show me the evidence or we can just agree to disagree on this occasion

 

[P10God]

Really sorry but I strongly disagree. For you to melt the solder balls under the CPU and GPU you would need a professional rework station. You would also need the correct heat profile for the pre heat otherwise you would kill the console beyond repair.

You can disagree with me all that you like, do I care? Not really?
I know what I've done and the amount of people I've helped out over the past 10 years.
There's heaps of people out there that have NO clue what they're doing (like people that do delids because EVERYONE else is doing them), but if you know what you're doing (like I do) then it's totally 110% possible to fix a PS3 without a professional workstation (I've done it countless times, whether you claim I haven't or not (I don't open my mouth if I don't know what I'm talking about)).

It's highly likely what your actually doing is flexing the MB so the BGA reconnects to the CPU and GPU. The 10 percent your so called "reflow" can't fix its highly likely this is because the 90nm RSX processor has died which is common on these consoles (needs Frankenstein mod or replacement 90nm RSX)

I've gone from a YLOD machine that doesn't work to a machine that's been working for 10 years.

These 10% ACTUALLY need a Reball from a Professional Rework Station.

Unless you recorded your reflow on have actual evidence you melted the solder with heat sensor showing the temps, I simply don't believe you. I also know what I am doing and wouldn't attempt an actual reflow without the correct tools to do the job. Simply saying you know what your doing simply isn't good enough to persuade me to believe you actually performed a reflow. So show me the evidence or we can just agree to disagree on this occasion

Pretty hard to "flex" a flat motherboard on a flat surface .
It's a similar situation with the old "oven" trick that some people used to fix Xboxes. Sitting on flat surface with loads of heat.

I don't need to "prove" anything to you, I know what I've done.

Back to my original comment.

Ripping the top off the processors DOES NOT fix them 100% so no wonder this still has YLOD.

 

[Timbo9876]

Original comment was

So now i think i will give up the PS3 route.

Second console YLOD!

This one, it was working FINE, i was gaming and all off a sudden YLOD. (3beeps red light blinking)

Tried to reboot Red green Yellow (3 beeps) Red light flashing.,

I handled this Delid (a few days back) with the outmost care, and no marks was made, no visible damadge, made sure to not press against the other side of the IHS to not put any force what so ever at the chip.

After taking it back apart, perfect spread of the thermal paste on all surfaces, all the new thermalpads had a slight indentation.

And since PS3xploit has been down i have not been able to Jailbreak (hence not been able to change fan speeds or see the temps)

Any ideas what so ever what i can do now?
Honestly, i am about to give up on the whole PS3 project, toss the two now dead concoles to hell and try to forgett it all.

Was it YLOD before the de-lid?

 

[Timbo9876]

Back to my original comment.

Ripping the top off the processors DOES NOT fix them 100% so no wonder this still has YLOD.

We are all here to learn, what we don't need is claims that can't be backed up with actual evidence, it becomes misleading for people that actually want to fix there console.

If you are performing an actual reflow and you have a special method, then please share with the group how you do it, if your not talking B.S then this would be useful information.

 

[Timbo9876]

Back to my original comment.

Ripping the top off the processors DOES NOT fix them 100% so no wonder this still has YLOD.

No, your not reading the thread properly!!! It says YLOD after de-lid. So to be clear, the console was working fine ad developed the YLOD after the de-lid. No-one is saying a de-lid will fix the YLOD, we all know it doesn't!!!

 

[Andrei1744]

No, your not reading the thread properly!!! It says YLOD after de-lid. So to be clear, the console was working fine ad developed the YLOD after the de-lid. No-one is saying a de-lid will fix the YLOD, we all know it doesn't!!!

Maybe you cut some traces on the cpu.

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