PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting

I've done a few thermal cycles now. Still going, are we aiming for the high 70s?
Well, just let syscon do it's thing. Let it fully heat for 25mins, then shut down for an hour to cool. You could speed thing up with a fan while it cools. Just trying to cycle it from say 25C to 70ish multiple times. We've seen it usually take about 2 weeks to die again. So if they used it once a day it would go through about 14 full cycles. Some die in 2, like mine. Or 25 like @Nascar1243's. So anywhere from 1 to 30days worth of regular use.
 
Based on others who've tried a reflow, I wouldn't give it more than a year (conservative) if regularly used. Probably more lile 3 to 6 months.
 
Try another power supply. What model is it? And can you provide any more details about the condition of the console. Like dusty, bugs, were fans loud, did you ever observe any artifacting, YLOD in games, has it been previously repaired, is it sealed with warranty sticker...things like that build a picture that can hint at what may be going on.

1004 is an AC/DC power failure usually from flipping the power rocker off at the back when testing the console or when forcing it off after it becomes unresponsive. In your case it appears to be occuring on it's own when attempting to power on, which could very well be a bad power supply. So if you have one on hand, try it. If not, they're not too expensive to replace. And easily done for pretty much anyone. No soldering required.

If that's isn't it however, the chances this is something simple that won't require soldering is remote. Like maybe a ribbon cable is pinched. But that's unlikeky. Be sure to try another outlet and power cord. Just to rule that out.

Thank you sir, its a model CECH-2101A. Yep i took it to repair once, it was to replace the HDMI port. And by opening it yesterday i can confirm its a little bit dusty. I never encounter YLOD in games, and fan was loud but it was because i increaed the fan speed via EVILNAT setting. Thank you sir, i will try another power supply .
 
Hello RIP-Felix, I've just used the PS3Toolset web browser facility for the first time on my PS3 (CECHK03 bought new in 2008). I followed your excellent YouTube video guidance and got good results from that exercise I think. My console suffered a YLOD last week (i think) for the first time (i think). So this prompted me to want to investigate and have had to do a LOT of reading and research on this subject since (nothing compared to your research though! Good man! What a legend you are!

I've watched a few of your YouTube vidoes now, including the 1.5hr long documentary, which i thoroughly enjoyed watching despite it filling me with dread over my own situation.

So on to my question now i've introduced myself.

Is this the thread where you want me to post my results photograph for discussion?
 
Feel free to add your experiance here, among like minded fellow mortals. We the abandoned few who $ONY's console we did enjoy.

They dont help us. We help each other with the few crumbs they left for us to scavange. Fend well, for ours is a dire fate. PS3 is a worthy adversary. So beware all ye who enter...
 
Feel free to add your experiance here

Thank you sir, I will do. I'll have to do it from home though (at work now), as that's where my screenshot photos are. I'll post them up tonight (UK time), and I'd really appreciate a breakdown feedback on the results. I can tell you the story attached to my console performance last week and the past couple of weeks, which is the thing which has prompted me to suddenly learn and discover about all these things PS3 related in a very short space of time. Just over a week ago, I had no clue about YLOD or model differences, or anything. I suspect I experienced my first YLOD on April 2nd 2024. Slightly before this, maybe a week before, PlayTV was giving me a real headache. It seems that Sony has dropped a doozy with 4.90 and 4.91 with regards to PlayTV. I had to resort to uninstalling it as it was making my console completely unstable. It's possibly due to this that has lead to a YLOD. See this thread for my story on this: https://www.psx-place.com/threads/playtv-broken.43031/

I'm going to be receiving another few consoles through the post in the next week, which I've bought second hand from the bay of E. I'm going to use these for different purposes. See my last post on this thread I started for more details: https://www.psx-place.com/threads/flashing-red-light.43415/

I think you'll agree when you see my results from my own original console, that my previous claims in other posts in the forum of my console being a very well looked after machine was no lie. The reading of the SYSCON shows this (in my opinion). It's just a shame that despite the respect it's been given, it looks as though it might be wanting to die on me anyway.

Right. Until tonight in my next post, adieu.
 
@RIP-Felix Hey brother I received the new capacitors today and replaced 4 tokins on the back of the board and errlog is now throwing 3003 codes. After getting that error I decided to replace the other 2 tokins next to the Cell chip. Can post pics of the replacement work if you think it'll help (Spoiler alert: it ain't pretty)

Any ideas?

Is it possible I killed the new capacitors by using too much heat? Had my iron set to 480 degrees since it's getting pretty cold here and was struggling to melt the solder.
 
Bad install. 1001/1002 if bad filtering. 3003/3004 is failied filtering. Like open line or short. So double and tripple check your soldering. Use a multimeter to be sure there are no shorts. Be sure there are no cold joints.
 
Bad install. 1001/1002 if bad filtering. 3003/3004 is failied filtering. Like open line or short. So double and tripple check your soldering. Use a multimeter to be sure there are no shorts. Be sure there are no cold joints.
Thanks for the quick response!

That's the thing though. My multimeter detects continuity across all the pads. Even before I installed the capacitors :S
They're definitely soldered down properly though, just not the prettiest work.

I'll tear the PS3 down again and upload some pics.
 
I want to note that I originally started with 4 capacitors for each tokin, but since it was throwing the error I decided to try 3. All are 470uf 6.3v

Also please give me hell for how terrible the solder job is :biggrin2:
 

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I want to note that I originally started with 4 capacitors for each tokin, but since it was throwing the error I decided to try 3. All are 470uf 6.3v

Also please give me hell for how terrible the solder job is :biggrin2:

I'm handy with a soldering iron, and have done many soldering jobs over my lifetime, just not on PS3's, so it's easy for me to stand here and be all smug and say "That is horrific!" :wink:
I understand the difficulties of heat sinking with these, and I've never attempted it myself (yet!), so I'll back down and confirm I'm just ribbing you. No insult intended.

Good show old boy! :encouragement:
 
I'm handy with a soldering iron, and have done many soldering jobs over my lifetime, just not on PS3's, so it's easy for me to stand here and be all smug and say "That is horrific!" :wink:
I understand the difficulties of heat sinking with these, and I've never attempted it myself (yet!), so I'll back down and confirm I'm just ribbing you. No insult intended.

Good show old boy! :encouragement:
please feel free to talk as much shit as you want. Believe me I'm laughing with you :biggrin2:

It's a real struggle getting the solder to melt at the moment. I most definitely need to use a bigger iron tip but I cannot find my set :mad new:
 
My multimeter detects continuity across all the pads.
That's normal, it's low impeedance. You can't use continuity mode. Use resistance. Measure what a short is on your meter by touching probes together. Then the VDDC. If it's less than 0.5R it's short.

BTW, those puke yellow caps are an inappropriate choice for this circuit. So while they may work for a time, or to test, You don't want them long term.
 
It's a real struggle getting the solder to melt...
And now your experiance alignes with the warnings of those before you.

It's not as easy as it looks. Some hot air or a preheater will help your iron to make a good joint. Be sure to use flux. And after all this heat, you may very well have warped the motherboard and caused a BGA crack that now requires a reball to fix.

Not trying to scare you. Just prepare you.
 
And now your experiance alignes with the warnings of those before you.

It's not as easy as it looks. Some hot air or a preheater will help your iron to make a good joint. Be sure to use flux. And after all this heat, you may very well have warped the motherboard and caused a BGA crack that now requires a reball to fix.

Not trying to scare you. Just prepare you.
I bought this PS3 already broken just to try and repair for fun so I don't care if I break it beyond repair honestly. It'd be nice if I can get it up and running though.

I'm quite new to using a multimeter so I just wanna make sure I'm doing this right. I have it set to 200 in the ohm position and it's reading around 01.1-00.9 when touching the probes together, and the reading I'm getting when testing the capacitors is about 04.7. Guess that means there's a short?
 

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