PS3 Powering Launch PS3 w/ external power brick (D220P)

@Yoshigu88
Ouch! 3/4 corners seem to be heavily scratched where the data-lines run. I must ask, did you warm the IHS so the tool could easily cut/slide through the glue? It kinda looks like substantial force was applied in the process.
To be honest I'd be very very surprised if it survived this, I'm sorry for your loss!

I had to fix YLOD twice, by the "reflow" method and adding paste to the outside, and adding these attachable USB fans.
The only thing we can use from this experiment is the understanding how little to almost none thermal-conducting material was left between IHS and die. I'd almost dare to say this was 100% the reason your console was having all of these YLODs before.
 
Last edited:
1 corner was definitely damaged, thats the corner I started with :(
Yes, I was debating between my heat gun or just a hair dryer - then just went with a hair dryer after reading other treads.
If I get a second chance, would def use my heat gun. It did feel extremely hard to "cut".
:( chances are probably pretty tiny. Do you agree I should use nail polish (someone suggested silicone) on the areas, then see if its dead?
 
I get your point.
I was uncomfortable with the concept myself.
1st - I ask around 10 hardware/game/electronic stores to ask if they fix/delid, or offer help. All said no.
2nd - I just had to do my own research, but so many people had so many opinion, use heat, don't use heat (and how much heat), make your own custom tool [Hey Jacobsson. I regret not buying that last IHS BUSTER on ebay, its gone now :( ], or try different tools people suggest.
3rd - custom services are way too expensive, You have to mail in your PS3, pay 300 dollars, then they mail it back. If services were available I would obviously have used it. But I cant ship a PS3 pay, 300 and hope they fixed it.

I think its lucky if you do it on a first try. Just from this try, Delid the GPU is too easy, it took less than 1 minute, after you apply heat, just use some kind of spudger, with a tiny bit of force, then "click" it literally just pops off.

With the CPU, I applied heat just like the GPU, I tried to get an opening, for the paint knives, but I don't know why, the silicone glue was so tough. So I had to try from different angles, Thats the corner with the most damage. but the amount of pressure was surprising, its not what I see on most youtube videos, I had to use significant pressure to "cut"
-Maybe sharpening the paint knives would be better?
-Or try the fishing line method if I get a second chance.

I really do get your point of novice trying to delid, but there arent a lot of options out there. I talked to a vintage game store owner who will fix any console BUT the PS3, just because he said the risk is high, he will fix anything else. Sigh...

I just have one point: people are recommending painting knives because they are NOT sharp.
BUT I believe the IHS Buster is VERY Sharp. So which is better?
After this try, I think a well angled sharp tool is better, if its not sharp, you have to apply more pressure, which leads either to "slips" or scratches, which happened to me.

So I really agree with you, but its either you do it yourself, or pay 300+ dollars. and ship it twice.
I wish there was more support from Sony especially, and more standardized methods (I mentioned this to Jacob before. There is a guy who used a hammer and a razor blade and successfully delid the CPU)
...Hopefully 2nd time is the charm and not third.

Ill probably apply nail polish. and see if its dead. Then, see where that goes from there.
At least all the game data were saved on the HDD.
 
@Yoshigu88 Before any nail polish application I'd first use a cotton swab and some isopropyl alcohol to make sure the damaged area doesn't have any kind of copper debris left that can make a short between the exposed lines.

From your reply above I understand that you had to force yourself in under that first corner. It sounds like your tool didn't have enough of an upward bent to the tip, I do think sharpening/thinning the painters knife only on the "top side" (if that makes sense) could actually make it more efficient. I haven't done this to my knife kit though.

I know this might be a small comfort, but I'm confident (after seeing the image of the cell thermal application coverage) that your system wouldn't survive much longer. As you also stated; $300 for a delid service, then I'd you could actually buy one that already got delided, or even buy two w/o the treatment. One thing's for sure, the resell value of a YLOD CECHA isn't great.

Keep us updated if it survived or not!
 
Last edited:
@Yoshigu88 Before any nail polish application I'd first use a cotton swab and some isopropyl alcohol to make sure the damaged area doesn't have any kind of copper debris left that can make a short between the exposed lines.

From your reply above I understand that you had to force yourself in under that first corner. It sounds like your tool didn't have enough of an upward bent to the tip, I do think sharpening/thinning the painters knife only on the "top side" (if that makes sense) could actually make it more efficient. I haven't done this to my knife kit though.

I know this might be a small comfort, but I'm confident (after seeing the image of the cell thermal application coverage) that your system wouldn't survive much longer. As you also stated; $300 for a delid service, then I'd rather buy a "new" one that has already got this treatment.

Keep us updated if it survived or not!


Thanks, I will keep you updated. I am definitely going to make this an ongoing project. If it is dead, I try to get another motherboard, if I find one for a good deal.
Yes, that first "cut" in order to insert your blade. It was so hard to do, It might have to do with not using a heat gun. I was trying to use a hair dryer to be safe.

But I will put it semi-together and see if it will power on.

Best, and thanks for all the help.
 
Thanks, I will keep you updated. I am definitely going to make this an ongoing project. If it is dead, I try to get another motherboard, if I find one for a good deal.
Yes, that first "cut" in order to insert your blade. It was so hard to do, It might have to do with not using a heat gun. I was trying to use a hair dryer to be safe.

But I will put it semi-together and see if it will power on.

Best, and thanks for all the help.

I think a hair dryer is fine tbh, I just that if the tool isn't angled/bent in the tip I will cause this issue where it scrapes/cuts against the surface on the "entrance" instead of the inside of the IHS. I'll check which of the knifes I've been using (they're numbered).

EDIT: OK so it's def #1 and #4. I'd say the angle is at least 25 degrees at 10mm from the end of the tip
 
Last edited:
Hey Jacobsson
You were right, I think the scratch on the corner where I tried to come in from did it.
Put it back and got the red light. Sadly I think the CPU is damaged, and let me know if im wrong, you can't reball a another CPU onto a different unit from the treads that I have read. Your PS3 can somehow identify its not the part right?

I'll wait for a chance when someone sells a CECHA01 motherboard/unit (YLOD/working) and maybe try again.
I found this: because wires cannot "scratch" some people are using this way to delid the CPU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07113VV3Y/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2N7MOLQT42QNO&psc=1
or a Gauge, which is much thinner, and with that angle you can insert into the opening without cutting your own opening.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro...rentrq:773c96e31750a99c67f3aae7fffb9bea|iid:1

But thanks for all the help!!! Sadly, I cant continue with the external power now ;)
I'll let you know when I get another chance at this.

Best
Brice
 
Hey Jacobsson
You were right, I think the scratch on the corner where I tried to come in from did it.
Put it back and got the red light. Sadly I think the CPU is damaged, and let me know if im wrong, you can't reball a another CPU onto a different unit from the treads that I have read. Your PS3 can somehow identify its not the part right?

I'll wait for a chance when someone sells a CECHA01 motherboard/unit (YLOD/working) and maybe try again.
I found this: because wires cannot "scratch" some people are using this way to delid the CPU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07113VV3Y/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2N7MOLQT42QNO&psc=1
or a Gauge, which is much thinner, and with that angle you can insert into the opening without cutting your own opening.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Feeler-Gauge-Tool-002-003-05mm-08mm-08-0052/172604238899?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=4b498a43353841eab9fd49d5db595f5d&pid=100675&rk=1&rkt=15&mehot=ag&sd=184503660720&itm=172604238899&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2380057&brand=Motion+Pro&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:c24ff6ae-1a53-11eb-a348-523dcede4c79|parentrq:773c96e31750a99c67f3aae7fffb9bea|iid:1

But thanks for all the help!!! Sadly, I cant continue with the external power now ;)
I'll let you know when I get another chance at this.

Best
Brice

Swapping CPUs (I think you'll also have to swap syscon and all the flash-mems since they are married together) is a "level: insane" job which needs expensive tools.
Both the cutting wire and gauge tool are two super interesting alternatives in my opinion! If you master any of these (especially the cutting wire) I think that would be a great contribution to the know-how of the community.
 
Thanks for the posts.
Especially the two different positions which to start.
1. A lot of people recommend a corner
2. Others recommend the opening (Now I definitely think this is the safest way)

Wish I found this before. Yes, a lot of people did describe it as "cutting thru butter"...which stunned me when I started.
It felt like a brick-and yes, the post was exactly right, when you are using painting cutters, with the pressure your trying to cut, I did loose control once or twice.
**Gotta find me an old style calender so I can make that blade looking thing-yes.
-That is very helpful, cut an entire side with one insert.


To be continued, hope PS5 launch will drop the price of some PS3s.
(Comforting to know that NSC failed too, this is like performing surgery)
https://flake.tweakblogs.net/blog/10754/mythbusting-the-truth-about-playstation-3-cooling
Thanks a lot to the community!

Any advice on shopping around for a motherboard? Or just buy a new console?
 
@Yoshigu88
Any advice on shopping around for a motherboard? Or just buy a new console?
I think it's very rare to find a good known mainboard, at least for a decent price.

I'd say there are these three choices if you want to try get some value from the loss:
1. Buying a unknown working console/mainboard and get lucky
2. Buying a YLOD console/mainboard and get lucky
3. A console with a known fault that your spare-part console can cover, such as broken BD-drive/PSU etc

I think 3. is the way to go.
 
Wow this is an amazing mod. So much better than the those ridiculous giant pc psu mods. How does it run? Does it have any video noise? Can you play what ever game you throw at it like the Last of Us, Gran Turismo 6, GTAV, MGSV, Black Ops 3,Uncharted 3, Advance Warfare. Can it still play PS2 and PS1 games?
 
Last edited:
@jacobsson
Hi, I hope you had a good holidays and a happy New Year, and doing well!
Thanks for all the help you gave last time, I got lucky by your third method :), I got a A01 with a bad blue-ray drive for less than 45, and repaired it, I didn't de-lid it. I took a picture of the motherboard, and did a repaste, and change all the thermal pads.
And another gift, his unit had a A226 PSU :) suppose to be ~20% efficient than mine, and all that for 45.
Its working atm, idles at 56C, but if I play games it goes to >60C, closer to 70.
So I will probably have to de-lid it at some point, and i'm going to try a different way this time.
Hopefully I will be able to adapt your mod soonish
 
1

2

https://twitter.com/Rare_videogames/status/1346887282473709568/photo/3
3


I took a picture of the gap between the cell and the lid. I think either wire or paint knife, i will need to file it down as think as possible, and, if a paint knife, use some kind of tape to make the bottom side glide.
 
Back
Top