PS3 CECHK01 from YLOD to GLOD to shutdown

Crissaegrim87

Crissaegrim87

Member
Hi, Im very intrigued about this:
my CECHK01 was in YLOD, then about a week followed instructions from @Naked_Snake1995 but used SMD electrolitic capacitor (couldn´t get tantalums where i live) and the ps3 resurrected but no hdmi image, only AV multi. I was very happy until tried to open the store or a game (journey): the console stays in a black screen forever.
Yesterday installed rogero rsod 3.55 to try to swap that hdd into a CECHL01 that has rsod, but that not worked. Then when i try to power up the CECHK01, an error appeared: the console starts, the fan spins, the led is green, even the hdd led indicates activity, but after 30 sec ~ after startup, there is no image and the ps3 shuts down without any beeps and the led stays red. It´s not entering the recovery mode (no image, it shuts down as mentioned) but beeps in the order and number of beeps it should do.
I´m lost, any ideas please?
 
The good thing is the PS3 returned to life after the first tokins fix, this indicates you hitted the correct nail
The bad thing is it had no HDMI, but maybe this is a different problem :/
By now is better to focus your attention in the tokins and forget about the HDMI problem

How much is the total capacitance you added with the custom capacitors ?, and you still have the factory tokins soldered in place ?
Im asking this because ive seen many people that does the tokin fix only partially, incase the total custom capacitance is smaller than factory capacitance you need to "add moar sauce"
And also because we are not sure if sometimes the problem is caused by the tokins itself (internally in short circuit, or generating voltage ripple), in this case is mandatory to remove the faulty tokin/s

And i think is time to buy tantalum capacitors.. the electrolitic capacitors was suggested in the thread a couple of times... but is mostly for tests and to do it in the most cheapest way posible
Your PS3 seems to have good chances of being fixed, so do it right and most probably is going to work :)
 
@sandungas Actually replaced all of the tokins with 16 470uf 6.3v in the top (the ones opposite to cell/rsx), 8 in cell and 8 in rsx. The most rare to me is that the PS3 has no video at all (when it at least has video output in the av multi prior to this fail) but shuts down withot any type of warning or light. I have readed other "similiar" behaviour in GLOD but the PS3 in those cases not shut downs itself at all, and if it does, throws a series of beeps. Can it be the syscon? as I readed, it is the one controlling the psu on/off signals. Other thing is the rsx/cell doesn´t get warm at all, only if I try to power on successively times it does get a little warm, but that´s it. BTW, priot to the instant it will shut down, the hdd led (and it can be heard to be working too) shows activity.
Thank you for the reply.
WhatsApp Image 2020-05-02 at 15.57.38.jpeg
 
The tokins of a side of the motherboard are directly connected to the other tokins at the other side of the motherboard
If you replace only the tokins of a side of the motherboard is like replacing 50% of the capacitors dedicated to CELL, and 50% of the capacitors dedicated to RSX

Replacing 50% of them doesnt assures you that the problem is fixed.. the only way to be sure is by replacing 100% of them
In my oppinion the better order to replace them is 1) 50% of RSX, 2) 100% of RSX, 3) 50% of CELL, 4) 100% of CELL
But personally i think after the problem has been identifyed (like in your case because your PS3 was resurrected after replacing some tokins) is better to replace all them in a "brainless mode", and as mentioned before is better to remove all the tokins, because all the tokins has been suffering the same amount of work along his life, if one of them fails (and it happened) it means all the others are about to fail

Think in them as the wheels of a classic train (made of metal), when one wheel fails because wear out you need to change all them
Replacing only 1 wheel is not serious because the new wheel is going to wear out faster (is not working in the optimal condition, the other wheels are damaging it), also because you are sure the others wheels are about to fail in the next weeks and you are going to be repairing the train constantly

Thats exactly what happens with the tokins :)
 
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@sandungas, today made a research in a local online store, these smd tantalums cost 5400 AR$, when a used in good condition (blu ray working, not opened, etc) is about 6000-7000 AR$. Mine has no workin laser, so tantalums for me is a no-go. I have measured in the up side of the board and the electolytics I have are about 7 mm in height, so im not sure if they will fit besides the rsx/cell because of that. Im thinking of solder them in a pcb board an move them around with some good wires. Im open to ideas
 
Well, i cant assure you if is going to work with electrolicts, as i said there has been some talks about it in tihe tokins thread (and i was involved in some of them), but i dont remember anyone reporting that it works good enought and in a relliable way and with photos of how was made
It could happen that it works in the first hours/days... but are working under huge stress and eventually are going to fail
One of the most important things you need to check is if the capacitors are overheating (you can probe them with your finger btw)

Just an idea that came to mind when i was writing this post https://www.psx-place.com/threads/t...placement-ylod-fix.25260/page-101#post-241105

You can do like in the last image, an "stripe" made with 2 wires and a lot of capacitors in between the 2 wires
vpDCJRx.jpg

But this needs to be very well isolated electrically, you can use this kind of tubes, i dont know the name in english, there are some big enought to insert the stripe of capacitors inside, then you heat the tube (with hot air or a cigar lighter) and it reduces his size isolating the stripe of capacitors very well
H1bf777215cad4309b22ec09b19f9b0d6E.jpg


I guess an stripe of capacitors like that would allow you to locate them anywhere... but as said, im not sure if is going to work good enought and in a relliable way
 
OK, i found a photo without the tokins here
The point is... the stripe of capacitors doesnt needs to be soldered to the motherboard at the 2 sides of the stripe... is just needed to solder one side, so you can do like this

The curve with the several solder points in the red wire is because im trying to indicate that im doing the "bridge" in between V_IN and V_OUT (of the removed tokins) with the same wire
Bxbay3t.jpg


But this is the same
Umh7kKs.jpg
 
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Crissaegrim87 said:
Hi, Im very intrigued about this:
my CECHK01 was in YLOD, then about a week followed instructions from @Naked_Snake1995 but used SMD electrolitic capacitor (couldn´t get tantalums where i live) and the ps3 resurrected but no hdmi image, only AV multi. I was very happy until tried to open the store or a game (journey): the console stays in a black screen forever.
Yesterday installed rogero rsod 3.55 to try to swap that hdd into a CECHL01 that has rsod, but that not worked. Then when i try to power up the CECHK01, an error appeared: the console starts, the fan spins, the led is green, even the hdd led indicates activity, but after 30 sec ~ after startup, there is no image and the ps3 shuts down without any beeps and the led stays red. It´s not entering the recovery mode (no image, it shuts down as mentioned) but beeps in the order and number of beeps it should do.
I´m lost, any ideas please?
Click to expand...

Wait a minute since u used SMT caps u couldnt close the the ps3 properly right? can i ask if the console was originally on CFW? when u tested the PS store and a game, was the BD drive attached?? just wondering if u tried loading a game via the HDD and with no BD drive connected?

what was the reason u installed RSOD CFW for?? im wondering if this is acting like corrupt CFW? since its a NOR console connect tristate to ground and see if u get YLOD or the same GLOD still?
 
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