PS3 Restoring a CECHA

pinky said:
bad, bad bogey. :)
Click to expand...
If I bought a custom ssl certificate for ** ** www.ps3xploit.net > Domain no Longer owned by team** (NEW URL = http://ps3toolset.com) > Domain no Longer owned by team** (NEW URL = http://ps3toolset.com & the PS3 Toolset could actually support all firmware versions since 4.10, unfortunately I don't have the money & I am not getting any donations so far, so the requirements will remain 4.82+ for the foreseeable future.
 
pinky said:
lol...I was actually referring to you insisting he use a hardware flasher, but that also works.
Click to expand...
I was merely giving him the only alternative option...

Well, that's not entirely correct.
He could also get the old Flash Writer code from ps3xploit's github repo, change the offsets for 4.75 & prepare an appropriate 3Mb patch file with CoreOS files from a 4.75 cex CFW.
But unless you know what you are doing, the brick risk is high enough that you might end up having to use a hardware flasher to recover the Flash Memory.

The PS3 Toolset is free & risk free, by far the easiest, fastest & most reliable option available to the public when it comes to jailbreak, if I dare say so myself. Lol
 
Last edited:
bguerville said:
I was merely giving him the only alternative option...

Well, that's not entirely correct.
He could also get the old Flash Writer code from ps3xploit's github repo, change the offsets for 4.75 & prepare an appropriate 3Mb patch file with CoreOS files from a 4.75 cex CFW.
But unless you know what you are doing, the brick risk is high enough that you might end up having to use a hardware flasher to recover the Flash Memory.

The PS3 Toolset is free & risk free, by far the easiest, fastest & most reliable option available to the public when it comes to jailbreak, if I dare say so myself. Lol
Click to expand...

the bogeyman is comin' to get ya @SeanRanklin .
 
i am definitely going with the ps3xploit method as mentioned above. i also found a great video by mario on it, so im going to update to latest firmware and get going from there.

before i do that though, this system is gonna need a new set of thermals... judging by the game saves and firmware left on the console, it may have had the BD drive failure around 2014-2015 and the unit was stored away until being sold now. hopefully after i redo the paste, the unit has a good amount of life left !

i am a little worried about taking a heat gun to delid the chips though... excess heat of such nature cant be good for the board which is almost 15 years old and as fragile/tempremental as these are. might just do the HS only
 
SeanRanklin said:
i am definitely going with the ps3xploit method as mentioned above. i also found a great video by mario on it, so im going to update to latest firmware and get going from there.

before i do that though, this system is gonna need a new set of thermals... judging by the game saves and firmware left on the console, it may have had the BD drive failure around 2014-2015 and the unit was stored away until being sold now. hopefully after i redo the paste, the unit has a good amount of life left !

i am a little worried about taking a heat gun to delid the chips though... excess heat of such nature cant be good for the board which is almost 15 years old and as fragile/tempremental as these are. might just do the HS only
Click to expand...
A heat gun isn't going to removd the ihs off the chips. It takes a specialised home made slicing tool for cutting the heat resistant silicon from the cpu. Cut it wrong and your cutting the tracks on the cpu board killing it instantly. and a lot of experiance to know how to pop the one off the gpu without cracking the solder points holding the gpu to the main board. Creating YLOD unrecoverable.
Just do the paste ontop of the ihs its safer. Mx4 paste is perfect for the job btw and play on the console for an hour or so so warm it up then it should strip down easily.
 
baileyscream said:
A heat gun isn't going to removd the ihs off the chips. It takes a specialised home made slicing tool for cutting the heat resistant silicon from the cpu. Cut it wrong and your cutting the tracks on the cpu board killing it instantly. and a lot of experiance to know how to pop the one off the gpu without cracking the solder points holding the gpu to the main board. Creating YLOD unrecoverable.
Just do the paste ontop of the ihs its safer. Mx4 paste is perfect for the job btw and play on the console for an hour or so so warm it up then it should strip down easily.
Click to expand...

I have had practice on my previous unit which is now YLOD (not due to improper removal of the IHS). I used a standard hair dryer and heated up the RSX place for a short time which allowed me to cut through the glue and delid. Now the cell, i wouldn't attempt touching but the RSX is possible, but i am just worried about blasting the chip with such heat.

I could always just do the lids, but i know bad the paste is probably under there. When i delidded my RSX, it was even worse than the paste i found on the lids.
 
one, two, what should you do; three, four, better lock the door; five, six, time to get his fix; seven, eight, gonna seal your fate.

BOO! bogeyman!
 
I wouldn't and don't see why you would need to. Its just ssking for trouble imo.
Even when reflowing or re placing the solder balls you remove the ihs before applying heat and when you do you use a slow pre-heat on s rework machine to stop the board from getting damaged.
 
Bit the bullet and took the risk of delidding the RSX and while i must say, it was much harder to remove compared to my other 60gb, in the end it made such a substantial difference. After I put the unit back together and JB it then added CFW and webman right away, my RSX sometimes dips a whole 10 degrees celcius compared to the CELL in some less demanding games! Thats a huge difference indeed. I feel like without a delid, the thermal paste replacement will only be half done. Cell hovering 65-67 while RSX on 55-60 at 28% minimal fan speed. The cell is a lot hotter than i'd like it to be but given the nature of the chip, i'm sure it will handle it just fine.
 
Oh man, I'm going to have to attempt the delid on the Cell, things driving me crazy!

Such a cool running unit thanks to the RSX barely ever going over 60 yet the cell always hovers at 66 at which my webman fan control is set to 67, so its always kicking up sometimes from 27% (standard setting) up to 40% just to maintain that temperature. Such a shame. Any tool available to help delid the cell?

Just goes to show you how important the delid is for temperatures and how useless the HS are
 
SeanRanklin said:
Oh man, I'm going to have to attempt the delid on the Cell, things driving me crazy!

Such a cool running unit thanks to the RSX barely ever going over 60 yet the cell always hovers at 66 at which my webman fan control is set to 67, so its always kicking up sometimes from 27% (standard setting) up to 40% just to maintain that temperature. Such a shame. Any tool available to help delid the cell?

Just goes to show you how important the delid is for temperatures and how useless the HS are
Click to expand...

The IHS isn't the problem here. Its the sub par thermal compound. Remember, some Ps3s are getting on for 10+ years old. The thermal compound dries out and becomes less efficient.
Typically, you will see a few degrees difference between the CELL and RSX. 6c difference is relatively low, I've seen as much as 10c difference.
 
Fin9ersMcGee said:
The IHS isn't the problem here. Its the sub par thermal compound. Remember, some Ps3s are getting on for 10+ years old. The thermal compound dries out and becomes less efficient.
Typically, you will see a few degrees difference between the CELL and RSX. 6c difference is relatively low, I've seen as much as 10c difference.
Click to expand...
Ok not the HS itself, but more so the replacement of the thermal paste ONLY on the HS is practically useless i've found. Real temp drops come from the paste on the die itself
 
I am too worried about messing up the cell, so I'm going to just leave it.

I have had three faulty fat ps3s now and I am so concerned of this one failing now that I just avoid using it altogether! Any one know how I can further prevent it from dying? Anything I can do to help save the Tokins?
 
tryingbe said:
Delid both CPU and RSX. Replace the Tokins when they die.
Click to expand...
How to prevent the Tokins from dying though? Applying heat guns to the motherboards run the risk of shortening the life span significantly so I want to avoid that. Even when I did the rsx delid I only use a basic hair dryer and applied very minimal heat at a time and used mainly raw cutting power with a blade and force.
 
SeanRanklin said:
How to prevent the Tokins from dying though? Applying heat guns to the motherboards run the risk of shortening the life span significantly so I want to avoid that. Even when I did the rsx delid I only use a basic hair dryer and applied very minimal heat at a time and used mainly raw cutting power with a blade and force.
Click to expand...

There is no preventative measure for the tokins. They are just the way they are. There's some Toshiba laptop models that suffer the same fate as they too have the same Tokin caps
 
SeanRanklin said:
Bit the bullet and took the risk of delidding the RSX and while i must say, it was much harder to remove compared to my other 60gb, in the end it made such a substantial difference. After I put the unit back together and JB it then added CFW and webman right away, my RSX sometimes dips a whole 10 degrees celcius compared to the CELL in some less demanding games! Thats a huge difference indeed. I feel like without a delid, the thermal paste replacement will only be half done. Cell hovering 65-67 while RSX on 55-60 at 28% minimal fan speed. The cell is a lot hotter than i'd like it to be but given the nature of the chip, i'm sure it will handle it just fine.
Click to expand...

SeanRanklin said:
Oh man, I'm going to have to attempt the delid on the Cell, things driving me crazy!

Such a cool running unit thanks to the RSX barely ever going over 60 yet the cell always hovers at 66 at which my webman fan control is set to 67, so its always kicking up sometimes from 27% (standard setting) up to 40% just to maintain that temperature. Such a shame. Any tool available to help delid the cell?

Just goes to show you how important the delid is for temperatures and how useless the HS are
Click to expand...
There is a problem in CELL, but im not sure how much, if you take a read at the kind of temperature tests i was mentionig in this talk...
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/ps3-temperature-vs-ambient-temperatures.30855
sandungas said:
There are 2 kind of tests you could do, in the test i was talking about with @leandronb the goal is to have a very stable temperature, and the better way to achieve an stable temperature is either in main XMB, or inside a homebrew app (idle and waiting as many time is needed for the temperatures to stabilize)

The other is like an stress test, and is something different, here the goal is to generate the higher temperature posible to find the max
Click to expand...

In the "idle" test (inside an app, and waiting lot of time without doing anyting) you are going to have an small difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX... im guessing is not going to be more than 3ºC or 4ºC... because we are doing it with a low workload

That difference increases exponentially when we increase the workload, this is why you see CELL around 6ºC over RSX while "ingame" (or bigger for demanding games)... but in a healthy PS3 while "ingame" inside a demanding game the RSX should be around 6ºC over CELL
So the total deviation of CELL seems to be around 12ºC... in other words, the problem in CELL is making it work 12ºC over the optimal value (this should be compared to a healthy PS3 of the same model)

What you was doing was the "stress test", but you should do it under very stressfull conditions, this is not going to give you much info though, because you already know there is a problem in CELL... but it could clarify a bit how big is that problem when reaching high workloads
This stress tests are intended to stress the RSX though... i cant imagine any easy way to stress CELL
 
Last edited:
Fin9ersMcGee said:
There is no preventative measure for the tokins. They are just the way they are. There's some Toshiba laptop models that suffer the same fate as they too have the same Tokin caps
Click to expand...

Well, that's extremely discouraging to hear.

sandungas said:
There is a problem in CELL, but im not sure how much, if you take a read at the kind of temperature tests i was mentionig in this talk...
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/ps3-temperature-vs-ambient-temperatures.30855


In the "idle" test (inside an app, and waiting lot of time without doing anyting) you are going to have an small difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX... im guessing is not going to be more than 3ºC or 4ºC... because we are doing it with a low workload

That difference increases exponentially when we increase the workload, this is why you see CELL around 6ºC over RSX while "ingame" (or bigger for demanding games)... but in a healthy PS3 while "ingame" inside a demanding game the RSX should be around 6ºC over CELL
So the total deviation of CELL seems to be around 12ºC... in other words, the problem in CELL is making it work 12ºC over the optimal value (this should be compared to a healthy PS3 of the same model)

What you was doing was the "stress test", but you should do it under very stressfull conditions, this is not going to give you much info though, because you already know there is a problem in CELL... but it could clarify a bit how big is that problem when reaching high workloads
This stress tests are intended to stress the RSX though... i cant imagine any easy way to stress CELL
Click to expand...

Woah, hang on a minute. In a healthy PS3, the RSX should be on average 3c HOTTER than the CELL? under demanding game, the hottest my RSX can match the temp of my CELL but barely (if ever) actually exceed it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top