PS3 «Tutorial» PS3 CELL B/E Thermal Dissipation without removing the IHS

Cypher_CG89 said:
That is a really bad idea to use rubber from a car tyre... the only reason they hold there shape like they do is beause they have a metal mesh running through them to keep the structure. If it did not have this mesh then hitting a bump in the road too fast would cause the type too explode, violently. And the mesh is razor sharp when cut so your going to have a short risk and a damage risk.

Also the only one that might work would be a super soft compond tyre, the rest are too hard to use and would bend the MB or just resist the pressure of the clamps and bend them out of shape.

All in all not a good idea at all... too many risks.
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I know, but i was not suggesting to use a piece of rubber with the metal mesh, this depends of the tyre but i was mentioning tyres in general
As example, in a tyre of an offroad bike there are "blocks" of rubber good enought in size to cut them
With a tyre of an offroad car im not sure but probably it can be made too

Not sure... is needed to make some butchery to see if there is enought rubber in it :D
 
@Cypher_CG89 i was reading again the tutorial, look at the size required for the mod, he didnt mentioned width/height but the thickness is something in between 3mm and 4 mm
Is not bigger than a coin, and most tyres have the amount of rubber over the mesh, so my guess is it can be made with most tyres

The biggest problem i see is almost imposible to make a perfect flat cut at the first try... most probably is going to be needed to cut it several times to have 2 paralell and flat cuts
And while doing this is reducing his thickness... there is a point where you ruined it and you have to start again :D

But i think this rubber material from tyres is better than the eraser btw, it resists a lot more and is going to maintain his dimensions better along time
 
I originally had about 20-25c difference between my CPU and RSX. CPU was running at 80c idle and RSX around 55c. Now they are both at 50c. This is incredible. Tnx you so much!! <3 (My Model is FAT CECHJ04 PAL)
 
u cant really make any mistakes, if u really want to try this and want it to be fail safe just buy some thermal pads and cut them to size, they are pretty cheap to buy and if u cant find the full thickness ur after (which u shouldnt) just layer them, IMO they would look and work much better.
 
Sharing my trial of this method. My slim unit is definitely having issues with just the clamp. Im getting 60+ in a matter of a few minutes. With the eraser trick it takes longer to heat up to 67 degrees celcius my limit. But it still gets hard to bring temps down that easily with 90%+ fan speed when it exceeds 67. It definitely helped but not where I dont have to think about it during operation. Delidding must be the only solution for my old unit, but I will definitely not do that on my own. Rsx averages around 50 to 55.

Sent from my TRT-LX2 using Tapatalk
 
I opened up my unit with this eraser trick again and can see "crumbs" left by the eraser stuck on the tiny main capacitors. I think adding a thermal pad in between would be better in the long run. Turns out my old mx2 is not providing sufficient dissipation. Changed it to mx4 with a new stabilo eraser cut out and im getting far better results.

Sent from my TRT-LX2 using Tapatalk
 
OMG !! brother that's incredible it literrally fixef my ps3
but i fear the erasrr would pelt insidr the ps3 & damage it
how can i avoid this ???
 
bouali1903 said:
OMG !! brother that's incredible it literrally fixef my ps3
but i fear the erasrr would pelt insidr the ps3 & damage it
how can i avoid this ???
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Is better to do it with a piece of rubber because is going to resist a lot better the thermal variations and the aging

In case of doubt about the rubber material... fill a pot with water, heat it in the kitchen until it starts boiling (the water boils exactly at 100ºC) then throw the rubber material in it and boil it for 10 minutes more or so
If the rubber material keeps his dimmensions and is still solid (in other words, it survived the test) it means is good enought for the PS3 :)
 
actually i just did another type of test for the eraser
i took the other half of the eraser that i didn't used and and exposed to hair dryr very close to the nuzzle with the highest temperature level for 5 minutes , it was very hot that i needed to hold the eraser using a plier there is no way i can use my hand it will literally burn in less than 10 secondes, and luckily it survived without any deformation wow ! so maybe i'm sticking to the eraser.
one more question : will i need to delid sooner or later or the eraser stuff is a permanent fix ???
 
bouali1903 said:
actually i just did another type of test for the eraser
i took the other half of the eraser that i didn't used and and exposed to hair dryr very close to the nuzzle with the highest temperature level for 5 minutes , it was very hot that i needed to hold the eraser using a plier there is no way i can use my hand it will literally burn in less than 10 secondes, and luckily it survived without any deformation wow ! so maybe i'm sticking to the eraser.
one more question : will i need to delid sooner or later or the eraser stuff is a permanent fix ???
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I guess your PS3 is the one we was talking about here https://www.psx-place.com/threads/how-long-will-my-ps3-survive.28285/

You should not worry, the eraser is going to help a bit, but even without the eraser there is no need to delid it
 
bouali1903 said:
will i need to delid sooner or later or the eraser stuff is a permanent fix ???
Click to expand...

The short answer is yes, this is by no means a permanent fix, its just a band aid "temp fix" that shows where the problem lies. this can also not only show a thermal paste issue but also show how well/flat the 2 surfaces are to get the best heat transfer so u could have 1 of 2 problems going on.
 
wrx884 said:
The short answer is yes, this is by no means a permanent fix, its just a band aid "temp fix" that shows where the problem lies. this can also not only show a thermal paste issue but also show how well/flat the 2 surfaces are to get the best heat transfer so u could have 1 of 2 problems going on.
Click to expand...

i think it is just the flat surface thing becuse the ps3 is like-new and have a low playtime (79 days).
so in that case can the eraser stuff fix it for long term usage ??
 
bouali1903 said:
i think it is just the flat surface thing becuse the ps3 is like-new and have a low playtime (79 days).
so in that case can the eraser stuff fix it for long term usage ??
Click to expand...
In your other thread, when you mentioned your CELL was reaching 78ºC on syscon mode you did not mentioned how much temperature RSX had in syscon mode
The way to see how big is the problem is by comparing with each other
So... we are not sure how bad is your CELL, we know is bad, but how much is something we dont know (but i have the feeling is not so bad)

If the problem is small the best you can do is to dont delid it, because a delid is risky
 
sandungas said:
In your other thread, when you mentioned your CELL was reaching 78ºC on syscon mode you did not mentioned how much temperature RSX had in syscon mode
The way to see how big is the problem is by comparing with each other
So... we are not sure how bad is your CELL, we know is bad, but how much is something we dont know (but i have the feeling is not so bad)

If the problem is small the best you can do is to dont delid it, because a delid is risky
Click to expand...
on syscon the rsx temp while in game is arround 65-68°, also these days the weather started to get hotter it's spring now and the cell temp went to over 80's on syscon. this is why i did the eraser stuff.
and it worked ! now the cell never go over 75°c in game. (i checked the fan speed and it was 20%) and with webman fan control at 40% it's even better it never goes beyond 60-61°c in game while playing uncharted 2.
the system is capable to cooldown the cpu but it just use 20% fan speed tha5's what i noticed
 
bouali1903 said:
i think it is just the flat surface thing becuse the ps3 is like-new and have a low playtime (79 days).
so in that case can the eraser stuff fix it for long term usage ??
Click to expand...

well we just cant tell u that the only way to know is by deliding and checking. Regardless of how many hours of play the machine has had thermal paste has a shelf life and degrades over time still, even with out use so no again if ur using this method this is just telling u have an issue some where so this is by no means a long term solution and just a simple temp fix to get u by. At the end of the day u shouldn't even be needing to apply extra pressure for ur console to work and show correct results.
 
wrx884 said:
well we just cant tell u that the only way to know is by deliding and checking. Regardless of how many hours of play the machine has had thermal paste has a shelf life and degrades over time still, even with out use so no again if ur using this method this is just telling u have an issue some where so this is by no means a long term solution and just a simple temp fix to get u by. At the end of the day u shouldn't even be needing to apply extra pressure for ur console to work and show correct results.
Click to expand...
while its true that thermal paste has a shelf life like most stuff it can be a more permanent fix. in my case i opened my 30xx to change thermal paste after about 5 years of manufacturing even when i got a ball of dust of a corner of the cell IHS it was still somehow worse fan was going above 35% even with the top cover off, did a variation of this method using a different material and it worked.

my theory is that the metal clamps cant keep the pressure on anymore due to age, thermal cyclyng or whatever whatever and doing this mod helped with putting the pressre back on because ive seen people say that bending the clamps back help even saw a tutorial of using washers insted of an eraser.

anyway it has been 3 or 4 years since then only have replace thermal paste once since then exact same piece of material is still there and works fine, 33% fan speed enogh to keep RSX at high 60s CELL mid to low 60s even on the most demanding games on a console with 700+ days of use
 
The goal of the rubber/eraser is to spread the pressure in a wider area (idealistically, of the same size than the IHS)
The root of the problem is that squared "hole" that have the PS3 motherboards under CELL
From factory the pressure is transfered only to the borders (not the center)
With the rubber/eraser the pressure is spreaded in a area that is more closer to the aquared area of the IHS

bouali1903 said:
on syscon the rsx temp while in game is arround 65-68°, also these days the weather started to get hotter it's spring now and the cell temp went to over 80's on syscon. this is why i did the eraser stuff.
and it worked ! now the cell never go over 75°c in game. (i checked the fan speed and it was 20%) and with webman fan control at 40% it's even better it never goes beyond 60-61°c in game while playing uncharted 2.
the system is capable to cooldown the cpu but it just use 20% fan speed tha5's what i noticed
Click to expand...
Well, it would be better if you do a couple of accurate tests of that (on syscon mode) to see the differences, in standby (very stable temperatures), and ingame (to find the max)

If the difference of temperatures ingame are around 10ºC you are a bit on the limits, a bit more over that should be considered a serious problem
But that "bit more" sometimes is hard to calculate, you know 3ºC up or down are important in this matter
Personally i think 15ºC of difference worths a deliding, but under that probably is not worthy because the risks involved in deliding
 
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