PS3 «Tutorial» PS3 CELL B/E Thermal Dissipation without removing the IHS

DUDE.. AT FIRST I WAS SCEPTICAL...
Eraser at 3mm seems a lil bit big for cechg04 but i was like.. eh its overheating in xmb so lets see what happens.
This 2007 ps3 was overheating at startup going to 80 in first minute. Starting a game would result a shutdown.
Wanted to delid but then i saw this post and tried it.
It works like charm with no user settings for the fan.
Even the bluetooth is working now (wtf).
I have a brand new 2007 console now!
Now i just wonder how much time will this method fix the issue.
Thank you so much OP you are a lifesaver for a ps3 lover like me!

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This post can t be found of google, strange
 
Not sure if my thought is correct, but could this be the solution for fixing YLOD during TLoU? I started playing TLoU ever since I performed this method on my CECHA00 and I haven't experienced YLOD during gameplay (game only freeze once). I heard that a lot of PHAT models have YLOD while running this game.
 
vinhtq115 said:
Not sure if my thought is correct, but could this be the solution for fixing YLOD during TLoU? I started playing TLoU ever since I performed this method on my CECHA00 and I haven't experienced YLOD during gameplay (game only freeze once). I heard that a lot of PHAT models have YLOD while running this game.
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sounds like you have a BGA issue on the CELL
 
vinhtq115 said:
Do you mean the freezing TLOU or the YLOD? Ever since I bought the console, I have never experienced any YLOD with it (even before applying the eraser method). Not sure if previous owners had YLOD.
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no, i was saying that from your previous post that your PS3 seems to have a BGA issue with its solder connection with the CELL cpu. could be NEC related but not sure here..
 
MItch07 said:
Is it worth it to do this on a delidded system?
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Is not worthy, if the thermal paste under IHS is in good condition the pressure applyed by the factory design is good enought
Also, incase you want to increase a bit that pressure you could just increase the bending of the metal clamp a bit

Basically, this mod with the rubber block helps when the paste under IHS have "gaps" that prevents the heat to be transfered to the IHS
When we increase the pressure we are reducing this "gaps" under IHS... so the thermal transfer is improved... but only a bit because at that point the thermal paste under IHS is completly dry (a bit like talc powder)
 
Falco1211 said:
@sandungas Would this also work if i used a thermal pad instead of an eraser?
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Nop, the thermal pads are too thin and soft, this needs to be made with a material with the same properties than rubber: strong, but flexible and able to recover his original structure after being stressed by heat and pressure

The effect achieved with this mod is like an "spring" pushing constantly with the same pressure
You are adding a "block" that is a bit bigger than the space available, then you compress it, and the block is supposed to be "pushing" forever (in theory, unless the material degrades too much)
 
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I added a 3mm faber-castell smooth white piece of eraser and this worked wonders. Now, I don't really know if the eraser was just a placebo since I also removed the old original thermal paste of this untouched CECHH00, but I strongly believe it DID have a positive effect, because in no way a FAT console would have gone from 76ºC at full blast to <65ºC at 35% fan power on the most demanding games, with only a regular ole thermal paste makeover.

Thank you OP!
 
This method has helped, but hasn't solved my issue.
Before using this method, my Fat (CECHL-01) PS3 shut itself down ~2 minutes after being turned on. After using this method, it now takes a good 10 minutes to reach ~80ºC. The problem, however, is that, despite the fan being at high speed, only cold air is being blown out (i.e. the heat isn't being passed to the heat spreader). Unfortunately it seems that the only hope for this unit is delidding.
 
hi friends, i bought ps3 cechc04 for 17 € with ylod for personal collection and because it is backwards compatible, and i tried to fix it, i changed the nectokin but still gave ylod, i did a reflow with the flux and i magically came back to life , but after 15 minutes the fan accelerates to maximum and again 3 beeps. I deleid rsx and it was easy, but for cell I am really afraid of destroying my cechc04, which here in Italy is really hard to find, say that ylod happens because there is no more thermal paste between ihs and cell? for this 3 beeps and fan at maximum? looks like a departing plane, will this mod be able to fix my ylod? where would the mod rubber go, I have a black fiber sticker that protects the cell capacitors, in case I want to try the mod do I have to remove it? does this not emphasize the tin spheres of the cells? or even tear off some connectors of the board where the balls are soldered and let the ps3 die?, sorry for my english
 
SarahBear said:
Well, my temperature was originally CPU 86 / RSX 73 until I replaced the five year old thermal with MX-4. In which case they went down to CPU 67 / RSX 60, which to me was still too warm to be honest.

I was able to respectively get these temps after cutting a 3.5mm eraser, and carefully bent the clamps as they were completely flat (providing no pressure whatsoever). I had no desire to potentially destroy the chips from delidding so I'm extremely grateful this guide exists, as it worked and exceeded expectations with my CECH-2501A

Cheers mate! :D

View attachment 28990
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This result is incredible. What is the maximum temperature inside the game? And what kind of rubber did you use?
 
Rinaldis said:
hi friends, i bought ps3 cechc04 for 17 € with ylod for personal collection and because it is backwards compatible, and i tried to fix it, i changed the nectokin but still gave ylod, i did a reflow with the flux and i magically came back to life , but after 15 minutes the fan accelerates to maximum and again 3 beeps. I deleid rsx and it was easy, but for cell I am really afraid of destroying my cechc04, which here in Italy is really hard to find, say that ylod happens because there is no more thermal paste between ihs and cell? for this 3 beeps and fan at maximum? looks like a departing plane, will this mod be able to fix my ylod? where would the mod rubber go, I have a black fiber sticker that protects the cell capacitors, in case I want to try the mod do I have to remove it? does this not emphasize the tin spheres of the cells? or even tear off some connectors of the board where the balls are soldered and let the ps3 die?, sorry for my english
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You can try this method (read first two pages for all details) but rubber trick is actually effective in thermal dissipation on overheating CELL that is still working & powering on normally. Its possible that your thermal paste as well its contact between IHS & chip is completely useless. Delidding is worth a try in this case.

https://www.psx-place.com/threads/d...-of-different-ideas-easy-safe-and-fast.31520/
 
ninku said:
This result is incredible. What is the maximum temperature inside the game? And what kind of rubber did you use?
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The CPU rises to about 48°C when playing games and even up to 56°C when playing hardware intensive games, but that's perfectly fine and I never have to hear my fans sound like a jet engine ever again, it's whisper quiet.

I took a 3.5 eraser like below, and cut it so that portion fit in the proper area. It produced a fair amount of force on the CPU area but not enough to be strenuous or concerning, and the result has been well worth it as the heat sink makes solid contact compared to before. If the height feels a bit much when putting the cover back on (like it's too much pressure), I would recommend trimming it down so it doesn't stress the motherboard as overdoing it can lead to issues.

Hope that helps!
EDF44B87-82F1-44B1-9A3D-8E3D3C59B7B4.jpeg
 
Hey all !
Why someone is not explaining or telling that when we are giving pressure the cpu this way, there it could damage the balls of the cpu also, the force we are implementing also tries to separate the cpu from the main board in upward direction. Of course the cpu die and the cpu chip itself are connected together and then they are connected to the motherboard through the balls. Can somone confirm if i am correct or not ? maybe @sandangas or someone else with experience ?
 
khalidhotaki said:
Hey all !
Why someone is not explaining or telling that when we are giving pressure the cpu this way, there it could damage the balls of the cpu also, the force we are implementing also tries to separate the cpu from the main board in upward direction. Of course the cpu die and the cpu chip itself are connected together and then they are connected to the motherboard through the balls. Can somone confirm if i am correct or not ? maybe @sandangas or someone else with experience ?
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That shouldn't happen, because through this method all you're doing is applying a some pressure to the cpu area to make the contact better with the thermal paste. If you own a newer PS3 you shouldn't need to do this as Sony corrected some flaws, but the older ones like mine benefit from having something put there to stop that area from flexing.

There shouldn't be any issues unless you put something there that's too thick, which *would* ultimately stress the motherboard and potentially cause problems later done the line.
 
SarahBear said:
That shouldn't happen, because through this method all you're doing is applying a some pressure to the cpu area to make the contact better with the thermal paste. If you own a newer PS3 you shouldn't need to do this as Sony corrected some flaws, but the older ones like mine benefit from having something put there to stop that area from flexing.

There shouldn't be any issues unless you put something there that's too thick, which *would* ultimately stress the motherboard and potentially cause problems later done the line.
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Thanks for the reply, you are saying that we are making pressure to the cpu area to make the contact better. i know what are you talking about, but do you pay attention currently what i am pointing at ? that cpu is connected with a small pcb together and then both of them to the motherboard by many solder points. I have slim 2000A model and was experiencing hot cpu and even couldn't start a game because the temperature would raise to 85 just in 40 seconds and then the ps3 would turn off itself, but doing this trick has solved the issue now and i am worried if the force applied may cause any damage to the cpu while it becomes hot while playing games again. The interesting point is how that pressure is keeping the cpu upwards to contact the IHS but don't cause any damage to solder joint points as they are the same connected bodies ?
 
khalidhotaki said:
Thanks for the reply, you are saying that we are making pressure to the cpu area to make the contact better. i know what are you talking about, but do you pay attention currently what i am pointing at ? that cpu is connected with a small pcb together and then both of them to the motherboard by many solder points. I have slim 2000A model and was experiencing hot cpu and even couldn't start a game because the temperature would raise to 85 just in 40 seconds and then the ps3 would turn off itself, but doing this trick has solved the issue now and i am worried if the force applied may cause any damage to the cpu while it becomes hot while playing games again. The interesting point is how that pressure is keeping the cpu upwards to contact the IHS but don't cause any damage to solder joint points as they are the same connected bodies ?
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I'm not an expert, but the PS3 mobo's are quite thick and a bit resistance should be fine. I would actually be concerned more about getting into the higher temperatures without doing anything for the cpu, because that can do damage long term as the flex points are at the four screws and not the whole cpu area. At least when you put an eraser there the resistance is fairly flush across that area, but without it I'd argue it puts unnecessary strain across that area and on the solder joints.

I get what you're saying, but your only other option would be delidding on the older generations. I'm not willing to risk permanent damage by messing around with that and I'd say the benefits far outweigh the small risk (if there is one?) of joints coming loose, because as I've said if it's not too tight on the cpu area I don't see much of an issue. It's better than the alternative, and has worked perfectly when everything else has failed so I guess time will tell.
 
Yeah, you are right. time can tell what will happen. But we all don't want to lose another of our consoles in order to get experience guys. The internet is now full of knowledge and a lot of players are sharing very interesting ideas here, I have seen a lot of information for deliding the cpu, like paint knives, razor blades, tooth flush, fishing line, phone glass wire, beer or red bull cans, blades etc....
 
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