PS3 Would a cut out piece of an aluminium can be a good way to delid a ps3?

I remember searching "ps3 delid" on youtube yesterday, and there was some spanish guy showing a method to delid a ps3 with a cut out piece of an aluminium can. I cant find the video, and ive also searched my history. Also the annoying thing is, he didnt show the process, But just did a before and after thing. I got a cechc04 and I want to delid it in the end of the week. I had done a delid on the same model a few months ago, and tried thousands of things.Heres a list of the things I tried and some comments:

-A guitar string (high e gauge 9 about 0.8mm I think) wasnt working, the glue was way to hard for it to cut through and it was hurting my hands a lot. I didnt try using it with a lot of force though, so maybe it could have worked. Maybe if i tied the string to some things to grab onto? Idk
-A guitar pick. I used multiple ones, but again, the glue was too hard and it wasnt cutting through. Unless of course I wasnt putting enough force.
-Cramolin flux off. Its supposed to soften up silicone and glue. I dont know if it worked, but maybe it did and I couldnt tell since I hadnt seen how hard the glue is without using the cramolin.
-And lastly the painters knife. A lot of people say "get a painters knife". But, I soon realised that this wasnt enough info. The painters knife I bought was too thick, and couldnt get under the ihs. And, when buying a painters knife , its thickness is not specified anywhere so I couldnt really do anything. Also, it was too long and i couldnt do a circle around the cell without being blocked by other components. And of course, it wasnt cutting the glue either. I did some dumb stuff to deal with that. I first bented it to a 90 degree angle, it made things even harder, and lastly, I cut it into a /\ shape to supposedly make it pointier and easier to get into the glue. I think it helped, but it was cut really badly and had some rough edges, which also scratched my cell a bit.
Anyway, I soon realised that you actually have to put some force in order to get into the glue. Once you get it in there, it moves smoothly like butter and doesnt need any force. So for me the hardest thing was getting it in there. So, I grabbed the knife, and put a lot of force. It actually got in. So thats why im saying with every item on the list that maybe I wasnt putting enough force with it. Maybe those items could have worked.

Now, I think that a cut piece of a tin can is a really good idea, and im definetely trying it. Its like a razor blade, but much more flexible and cannot easily cause any damage to the cell (I dont think it can do anything at all honestly) What im worried about is, is it going to be sharp enough so that I dont have to put much force and bend the piece, but just be able to move the tin can piece left and right in order to cut through? But tin cans are extremely sharp. Idk. Also, i might try a fishing line or a lcd seperation cutting line. I saw another post here about a guy that did it and it worked great for him https://www.psx-place.com/threads/a-new-method-for-delidding-the-cell.30265/
 
From all you did, it seems that CELL could be harmed
Now, I think that a cut piece of a tin can is a really good idea, and im definetely trying it. Its like a razor blade, but much more flexible and cannot easily cause any damage to the cell (I dont think it can do anything at all honestly)

Somebody thought about that too.


Result isn't so "ideal" looking by how the silicone on the pcb ended, but it's functional.

Did I mentioned you this method @sandungas ? Another example using liquids, huh.
 
Why not try nylon fishing wire like a civilized person and slowly saw away at it? I mean holy shit, using any kind of metal is generally not a good idea.
 
@MyNameIsDiEgo

The human hair have a diameter of 0.14 max (depends of genetics), i dont remember well, i was talking about this and other details the other day in other post, im mentioning this as a visual reference because at that tiny scales with decimals of milimeters is confusing
I have 3 electrical guitar strings (single core stainless steel) of diameter 0.4mm, 0.3mm and 0.2mm
I dont know how thinner are manufactured, but probably thinner diameters are not much popular because are so thin that they cuts your fingers skin if you insist in "rubbing" them so much as you noticed :D
The guitar string of 0.2mm is not so bad, is a lot harder than a wire of copper of the same diameter, but still allows to bend it easilly, i didnt tryed to delid with it but i wold say it could work

Is just... the wires we was discussing made with stainless stell + a moliybdenum alloy are specifically designed for this kind of "cutting" work, also being harder than the simple stainless steel allows us to reduce the diameter a bit more
After some brainstormings in the other thread i concluded 0.1mm is thin enought, we could go thinner but probably is not needed
The fact is the thinner the diameter in the practise is like saying that is more "sharped" (we are reducing the edge, but the edge of a wire is a cilynder)
So yeah... an extermelly thin wire is going to cut better... but is going to break more times (we are assuming the wire is going to break a few times anyway)... the point is we need to find a ballance of the times it breaks and the diameter... with the goal of doing this with the less force posible (because that force creates a lateral displacement that can break the BGA solders), we was talking about a way to conterfeit that effect btw, thats another think you SHOULD check

And yeah.. you need to grab the wire firmly with the 2 hands... but you also need to dedicate a finger of each hand to "guide" the wire to a precise position... and in that position move the wire left-right patiently

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The painters knife is a good solution, but only if the tool is made correctly, there is a "engineering sample drawing" (i like it a lot, and i thought about it before, sometimes he scares me of how our brains works) made by @FIP-Felix that explains very well how to build one, the concepts are:
-the edge is rounded at the side of the substrate, but is sharped at the side of the IHS. This way the cut is going to have a tendence to deviate towards the IHS (metal)... so it could happen that the tool scratches the metal with the sharped edge, but in the substrate only can touch with the rounded edge
-The metal sheet needs to be the strongest alloy posible, because when we are cutting we cant see how is "flexing" under the IHS, the fact is we dont want the painters knife to flex at all, is a lot better if it doesnt flexes because by looking at the surfaces out of the IHS we can assume the whole edge (partially hidden under IHS) is an straight line

Did I mentioned you this method @sandungas ? Another example using liquids, huh.
Hmmm, im going to be excesivelly critic with this video to be clear, if it was some of you i would tell the same but with better words, is one of the worsts videos ive seen this week :D

In general i dont like the idea of weakening the silicone with liquids, because are hard to control, you know it can spread everywhere, the only way to prevent that is by using tape, but is not going to be precise enought, there are going to be leaks, specially considering all this liquids intended to weaken the silicone are going to be chemically aggresive and are going to eat the tape and the adhesive of the tape like a cake
This guy just drops keroseno (im not sure how is named in english, but is the fuel used in planes) like if it was saucing a dorito, lol

He doesnt makes any effort to counterfeit the lateral forces i was talking about (that breaks the BGA solders)

And look at the metal sheet at the end (from the soda can), completly bent at many points... this means it was flexing when he was cutting... so he was not having an accurate control of the position of the edge "hidden" under the IHS

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For that matter using a razor blade is better than that, at least you are sure the edge is a perfect straight line, this kind of alloys have lot of carbon, this is why they breaks instead of bending (a big percentage of carbon makes the steel stronger but more fragile)
The risks of a razor blade are others, but it makes you more confident that the edge is not going to flex

Btw, when i was lurking ebay and aliexpress i found a few "tools" with the design of the "painters knife" intended to delid... you know the kind of stuff that is simple to produce but it have printed some "high tech" stuff in a ergonomic grip to convinve the client that is buying something very profesional, was cheap though
My point is... even considering that tools doesnt differs much from a humble painters knife, most probably the metal sheet is manufactured with high precission
I mean... is not just a matter of cutting the metal by a hit of a press, sandpaper the edges a bit randomnly and thats all... most probably the edges are "mechanized" to achieve a precise edge (either half a circle, or with the design of RIP-Felix)
If the tool size is right (needs to be small to dont hit with the others components around), the edges are made with precission (a lot more than what we can achieve by hand with sandapaper), and have a good price, i would say is a good buy/method
If i had to make a list of the safest methods i would say this could be very close to the wire... the wire is a bit safer because doesnt have edges (is a perfect cylinder) and because it breaks, that "break point" prevents to use excesive force
 
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@MyNameIsDiEgo

The human hair have a diameter of 0.14 max (depends of genetics), i dont remember well, i was talking about this and other details the other day in other post, im mentioning this as a visual reference because at that tiny scales with decimals of milimeters is confusing
I have 3 electrical guitar strings (single core stainless steel) of diameter 0.4mm, 0.3mm and 0.2mm
I dont know how thinner are manufactured, but probably thinner diameters are not much popular because are so thin that they cuts your fingers skin if you insist in "rubbing" them so much as you noticed :D
The guitar string of 0.2mm is not so bad, is a lot harder than a wire of copper of the same diameter, but still allows to bend it easilly, i didnt tryed to delid with it but i wold say it could work...
Awesome info! I won't be delidding my cpu/rsx anytime soon but I will be referencing this for sure
 
Awesome info! I won't be delidding my cpu/rsx anytime soon but I will be referencing this for sure
I forgot to tell the gap under CELL is exactly 0.2mm (or something very close to it), so the wire needs to be thinner than that

If you know somone that plays guitar ask about it, the nice thing of this is this strings are so thin that the guitar players are breaking them constantly, so maybe can give some broken strings to you for free :D

This is the thread when we was talking about wires
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/d...-of-different-ideas-easy-safe-and-fast.31520/
And this is the post written by @RIP-Felix about how to build a cutting tool
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/r...s-replacement-ylod.25260/page-143#post-263796
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