PS3 2500 slim failed Wi-Fi repair attempt, components lost

pandemiczero

Forum Noob
Hello, first timer here. I'm trying to follow the community rules as best as I can but still, there may be some unintended violation of rules.
* Long-winded "How I ended up here" ahead. Skip to TL;DR part if you're not interested. Sorry for bad english(and literature).
One day my friend brought me his 2500 slim, with wireless(Wi-Fi/BT) function lost. I didn't know what the problem was, and tried reinstalling firmware to 'fix' it. Got 8002F1F9, googled frantically and finally learned the cause : dead wireless module(in my case).
I tried several '8002F1F9 fix'(including hdd pull trick and putting in another hdd trick), and I was able to get back to recovery mode and install NOBT firmware. So it boots normally again. But, I wanted OC firmware and that had no NOBT variant, and maybe he would need bluetooth function. I contacted professional repair service first, but the price was over $50,
So I decided to go cheap and googled for wifi fix, and mainly got "You have to replace whole module"(and wireless module for 2500 is hard to find, let alone how difficult the replacing work is), but there was a video that suggests a step-down converter around the module could be the culprit. I tested voltage around as the video says, and confirmed 5 volts input, but 0.x volt output - Luckily, maybe I could get away with just replacing the converter!
With help of plenty flux and hot air, removing the chip was easy enough(used cheapo aliexpress 8898 solder station). But when I tried to wick old solder away and add new solder(unleaded, my mistake) with my iron, the solder just solidified and won't stick on the pads(even with over 400c setting).
Agitated, I tried to blow hot air while ironing, then boom, hot air blew some small components(red outline) away. I was able to get larger component back in place, but I'm not sure about the direction of it(yellow outline).
So...

-TL;DR : My 2500 slim has dead 'Wi-Fi step-down converter'. I'm pretty confident about it. But in my failed repair attempt I lost some components around it, and now I need to find replacement for them, too.

So here I am. With lost components. Could someone tell me what those black and gray(?) components are? I'll try again with leaded solder(advertised as 183c melting point).
Yes, it cost me well over $50 already(especially in my labor), but for me the experience was worth it(playing techie was fun!). If it's not fixed even after second attempt, then there's repair shop as last resort.
*I'm in korea, so I probably can't follow some of your advices, such as recommendation of specific shops.

Link:
"Playstation 3 WiFi/Bluetooth repair" Youtube Video

Image description:
1. Overview of motherboard(JTP-001 variant), Area of interest is outlined as red square.
2. Closer view of step-down converter area.
3. Zoomed shot of converter area. Shot with digital zoom of my phone. Sorry for crappy quality.
4. Screenshot of youtube tutorial video. Lost components are outlined.
 

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The one marked with yellow is a choke and despite ugly soldering should be fine if wasn't overheated.

I don't have a console/board to check that. But manufacturers very rarely changing the values of the example implementation so according to the RT8057 (the missing step-down converter) datasheet:

bottom red is a resistor with a value of 240kOhm
red on the right is capacitor - I have no idea but I'm assuming 10pF, should work fine without it.

about the resistor, those two resistors are setting output voltage so I would wait until someone with a board and a multimeter will give you its value.

lmao, sony was lazy
they simply copied layout for 2.3V output so yeah, the values I posted are good.
 

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They are a capacitor and a resistor, I recommend use AMS1117 1.8v buck converter for circuit mod,i think this mod can ignore those two smds.i use this mod about 1 year,it works very good.
ebFTyLG.jpeg
 
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Thank you for replies!
@Trzyzet Thank you for explanation and documentation. Yes, I didn't have even the slightest clue of what that diagram means lol. Anyway, I measured similar components with calipers, and concluded I need 0402(1005 metric) 240kOhm resistor(missing black), 0402 10pF capacitor(missing gray/blue), and 1008(2520 metric) 2.2uH inductor(Larger black). Am I correct? I'm not planning on replacing inductor yet, but maybe it's damaged by hot air and needs replacement, too. Better to have replacement ready.

@NightLess Wow! That seems really difficult. Are there specific benefits other than ignoring some components around? I thinking of replacing with same 8057 converter, but I'll take note that there's another method, too.
 
Anyway, I measured similar components with calipers, and concluded I need 0402(1005 metric) 240kOhm resistor(missing black), 0402 10pF capacitor(missing gray/blue), and 1008(2520 metric) 2.2uH inductor(Larger black). Am I correct?

Yes, you are correct.
 
Thank you for replies!
@Trzyzet Thank you for explanation and documentation. Yes, I didn't have even the slightest clue of what that diagram means lol. Anyway, I measured similar components with calipers, and concluded I need 0402(1005 metric) 240kOhm resistor(missing black), 0402 10pF capacitor(missing gray/blue), and 1008(2520 metric) 2.2uH inductor(Larger black). Am I correct? I'm not planning on replacing inductor yet, but maybe it's damaged by hot air and needs replacement, too. Better to have replacement ready.

@NightLess Wow! That seems really difficult. Are there specific benefits other than ignoring some components around? I thinking of replacing with same 8057 converter, but I'll take note that there's another method, too.
You removed the Buck Converter, so you should be able to ignore the two missing SMDs and modify an AMS1117 like I did, which is also a Buck, but it is not installed in the original position.
Of course, you can also restore it to the original circuit, so you need to confirm what capacity and resistance value the missing SMD is, depending on your choice.
 
Update)
I successfully replaced all the components and got... 1.8v out? I tested other points and they're same as the video.
Just a line to inductor that should show 2.3v(at least it was 2.3v in the video) is 1.8v. But then again, there's 1.8v AMS1117 mod so I could get away with that?

Aaaand now it refuses to boot at all. When plugged in, red light comes on, but when I switch it on, it turns green light and cooling fan spooling for 1~2 sec, and silently goes off, completely, not even red light. If I push the switch again then red light comes on again with a beep, but still can't boot. I removed the voltage regulator(that should cut the power to Wireless module) in hope of reverting it, but still no good.
Maybe I killed some chips on other side of MB while soldering, or even broke MB itself while trying to seperate it from upper shield(stuck really hard with PTM7950 paste, so hard that I gave up in fear of breaking the board)-though I think that possiblity is quite low-.

I'll say I'd quit here. I'm afraid that it's already out of my ability to repair, and even with professional service it could fail on another point over and over, or just be beyond repair. In fact it showed some other signs of failure before, such as increasing freezing and/or rebooting in several weeks while I was testing it. At least that's my 'sour grape argument' now.

Thank you everyone for advices, without them I wouldn't be able to even try repairing it!
 
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