PS3 CECHA PS3 YLOD Saga

[Vishera]

Were you able to test the game out yet? What were the results? This is really frustrating...

I tested Tekken Tag Tournament 2 with my CECHC04 60GB NAND model,
No problems at all,works perfectly fine for me.
However i do get the same problem with Gran Turismo 5 (During replay only)
I know that all NAND models get this problem with Gran Turismo 6,
with my unit the only 2 games that triggered the problem were Gran Turismo 5 and 6,
All games work perfectly fine for me except Gran Turismo 5 and 6.

 

[SeanRanklin]

I tested Tekken Tag Tournament 2 with my CECHC04 60GB NAND model,
No problems at all,works perfectly fine for me.
However i do get the same problem with Gran Turismo 5 (During replay only)
I know that all NAND models get this problem with Gran Turismo 6,
with my unit the only 2 games that triggered the problem were Gran Turismo 5 and 6,
All games work perfectly fine for me except Gran Turismo 5 and 6.

Thank you for posting your findings. I believe my unit is a NAND too, but this does not seem to matter.

 

[SeanRanklin]

Unlikelly, but incase of problems deleting the gamedata is a "must do" to try to find the problem, also the trophies and savedata, as explained here: http://www.psx-place.com/threads/ar-tonelico-qogaknell-of-ar-ciel.20886/

The gamedata needs to be deleted first because the files are generated by the game, so by deleting them you dont lose anything, at the next boot of the game the gamedata will be generated again

Next (if deleting gamedata doesnt works), and just incase... you can delete the game trophies installation, manually (by using a filemanager)... maybe the problem is happening because the game is trying to unlock a trophy for "congratulations, you spent more than 10 hours playing, bronze trophy", and the game crashes at that point because the trophies installation is partially corrupted

And the last resort... is to delete the savedata too, this sucks because usually you have stored some game progress in the savedata, but before deleting it you can make a copy of the folder (just incase you want to restore it incase the cause of the problem is not the savegame)

---------------------
Anyway... if the problem only happens in one game (but all others works fine), then the problem is in the game !
So additionally to the tests im mentioning deleting files generated by the game (gamedata, trophies, and savedata in that order) you should also download the IRD file of the game and run a check to the game files
Most probably the game files are going to match with the IRD, but just incase is needed to verify it because maybe some of the game files went corrupt

---------------------
Also, if the game is stored in a external USB storage device (hdd, flash, whatever) defragment it
And to defragment the internal PS3 hdd enter in "recovery menu" and use the option "Restore filesystem"

if the game continues crashing after all this checks... your PS3 is bewitched

Your response is actually very interesting. I mean, its definitely worth a shot to try this. The trophies section has me the most interested, as i transferred my data from another PS3, but have not synced my trophies, so i guess it COULD be responsible. Unlikely, but its more convenient to test as opposed to spending money on new internal components.

I'll wait for some cooler weather and try deleting the game data first. TT2 has copy protected saves, so I wont need to worry about doing that. The only trouble I might run into is deleting the trophy data, as i am running ReBug 4.8.2, but cant remember how get into my trophy directory on the console.

 

[Cypher_CG89]

There are two ways to delete your trophies data.

1. Simply go to your Trophies on the xmb, highlight what game trophies you want to delete, press triangle and select delete.

2. In MultiMan in File manager your trophies are located here :

/dev_hdd0/home/0000000*/trophy

but this way they are listed in a similar way games install data is listed :

NPWR*****_**

This way is a pain to do whereas on the XMB it's simple to find and delete the trophies you want to. This way is good if you want to manually backup your trophies if you haven't synced them with PSN.

 

[Fanhais]

https://www.google.pt/search?biw=13...0j0i8i30k1.0.li40NzWuSb8#imgrc=AJ3Dv7CLRM42ZM:

the problem of your ps3 60gb is nec tokin capacitors you need to replace with tantalo capacitator

because they lost the power to maintain the cell or rsx ative so the ps3 shuts off with some games because these nec tokin are bad

 

[Vishera]

https://www.google.pt/search?biw=13...0j0i8i30k1.0.li40NzWuSb8#imgrc=AJ3Dv7CLRM42ZM:

the problem of your ps3 60gb is nec tokin capacitors you need to replace with tantalo capacitator

because they lost the power to maintain the cell or rsx ative so the ps3 shuts off with some games because these nec tokin are bad

It's possible,
It looks like a power related problem,
It also can be the power supply.
The capacitors should be checked with a mulimeter:
1200uF 2.5V

 

[SeanRanklin]

Unlikelly, but incase of problems deleting the gamedata is a "must do" to try to find the problem, also the trophies and savedata, as explained here: http://www.psx-place.com/threads/ar-tonelico-qogaknell-of-ar-ciel.20886/

The gamedata needs to be deleted first because the files are generated by the game, so by deleting them you dont lose anything, at the next boot of the game the gamedata will be generated again

Next (if deleting gamedata doesnt works), and just incase... you can delete the game trophies installation, manually (by using a filemanager)... maybe the problem is happening because the game is trying to unlock a trophy for "congratulations, you spent more than 10 hours playing, bronze trophy", and the game crashes at that point because the trophies installation is partially corrupted

And the last resort... is to delete the savedata too, this sucks because usually you have stored some game progress in the savedata, but before deleting it you can make a copy of the folder (just incase you want to restore it incase the cause of the problem is not the savegame)

---------------------
Anyway... if the problem only happens in one game (but all others works fine), then the problem is in the game !
So additionally to the tests im mentioning deleting files generated by the game (gamedata, trophies, and savedata in that order) you should also download the IRD file of the game and run a check to the game files
Most probably the game files are going to match with the IRD, but just incase is needed to verify it because maybe some of the game files went corrupt

---------------------
Also, if the game is stored in a external USB storage device (hdd, flash, whatever) defragment it
And to defragment the internal PS3 hdd enter in "recovery menu" and use the option "Restore filesystem"

if the game continues crashing after all this checks... your PS3 is bewitched

I tried all of this, but no luck. After reading the rest of the posts, I am also leaning towards a power related issue.

 

[SeanRanklin]

https://www.google.pt/search?biw=13...0j0i8i30k1.0.li40NzWuSb8#imgrc=AJ3Dv7CLRM42ZM:

the problem of your ps3 60gb is nec tokin capacitors you need to replace with tantalo capacitator

because they lost the power to maintain the cell or rsx ative so the ps3 shuts off with some games because these nec tokin are bad

It's possible,
It looks like a power related problem,
It also can be the power supply.
The capacitors should be checked with a mulimeter:
1200uF 2.5V

I have a multimeter lying around the house, but I have no idea which setting to use.

Here is an image of the multimeter I have. Can anyone guide me?

http://www.robotroom.com/Multimeter-Reviews.html

(2nd unit)

 

[Vishera]

I have a multimeter lying around the house, but I have no idea which setting to use.

Here is an image of the multimeter I have. Can anyone guide me?

http://www.robotroom.com/Multimeter-Reviews.html

(2nd unit)

• How to Test the Capacitor Using a Multimeter without Capacitance Settings

As some less expensive multimeters lack the capacitance settings, and if one of these is what you own, you can still conduct tests on your capacitors with them.

1. Like the multimeters with capacitance setting, you would first have to remove the capacitor from the circuit and ensure it is discharged. The next thing to do here is to set the knob of the multimeter to ohms to measure resistance and select a high range.
2. Also, like the previous multimeter we spoke about, connect the probes red to positive and black to negative in the case of electrolytic capacitors, and in the case of non-electrolytic, you can place them either way.
3. The digital multimeter would display a reading of resistance, so note it, before it changes to the resistance of an open circuit which is infinity.
4. After these, disconnect the probes from the capacitors and repeat the process severally. Each test should show a different reading of resistance to prove that the capacitor is working correctly, so when it displays the same results severally, you have a damaged capacitor.

Testing capacitors using multimeters without capacitance settings can't assure you of the accuracy of the capacitance of the capacitor, but you can determine if a capacitor is good or bad with it.

• How to Test the Capacitor Using a Multimeter to Measure Voltage

Multimeters can function as a voltmeter, and capacitors are rated with a maximum voltage that can be applied to them, so this test would be centered on measuring the voltage rating of the capacitor.
To carry out this test, you should also follow the normal process of removing the capacitor from the circuit or board and ensuring it is discharged.

1. The voltage rating imprinted on your capacitor is the maximum voltage it can handle, so connecting it to a power source with a higher volt rating can cause damage. So note the voltage rating on the exterior of the capacitor, then attach it to a battery or a power supply that is not up to the noted ratings. For example, you can use a battery of 12 Volts on a capacitor of 25 Volts.
2. Leave the capacitor to charge for some seconds before removing the power supply. Now set your digital multimeter to direct current voltmeter settings, properly connect the terminals of the capacitor to the probes of your multimeter, positive to red and negative to black as need be, then measure the voltage.
3. Take note of your initial reading on the multimeter, if it is close to the voltage of the battery or power source connected to it, then the capacitor is good, and if there is a significant difference, then the capacitor is faulty.

It is important you know that gradually the voltage falls, so the only reading that should be noted is the first one.

Source: https://housetechlab.com/how-to-test-a-capacitor-with-a-multimeter/

Video guide:

 

[sandungas]

Like the multimeters with capacitance setting, you would first have to remove the capacitor from the circuit and ensure it is discharged.

This detail is very important, it means that is imposible to meassure accuratelly capacitors that are soldered on the circuit board

If you do... what you are going to see in the multimeter is the capacitante of the capacitor itself + capacitance of the motherboard copper tracks connected + capacitance of other components around (this sometimes includes other capacitors)

Lets say... we are trying to meassure a capacitor that is 1500uf, and we know this is an exact value because is told in the datasheet... but when you meassure it onboard the multimeter tells is 3273uf
It can be very confusing, but this is normal, and there is no wayaround (the only way is to desolder capacitor and meassure it offboard, but after desoldering it the best you can do is solder a new one so... meh, the act of meassuring offboard is just a verification because if you meassure it ofboard and is wrong you can start singing "victory" even before soldering the new capacitor, lol)

-----------------
That said... there is another trick based on comparisons, using the example i just wrote above
If user X meassure it (in a PS3 that is working normally) and multimeter says is 3273uf
Then user Y (with the same motherboard model) should get the same 3273uf

This way to meassure them is not accurate because you are not measuring the capacitor only, but it works as a fast check

-----------------
Btw... be sure to check you have the rubber "thermal pads" on top of them, this thermal pads are used to dissipate the heat to the metal shields that covers the motherboard like a sandwich
That metal shields has 2 functions, they protects the circuitry agains interferences, and are working as heatsinks too
Edit: well, there is an "extra" third function of the metal shields, are making the motherboard more robust (for extreme antishock scenarios, incase it falls to the floor)

It happens very frequently, when you open the PS3 and you remove the metal shields the thermal pads that comes from factory falls to the floor... and the person doing the work doesnt knows where was located... or thermal pads breaks (are very gummy and oily) and decides to remove them... or just moves around whitout the person doing the work noticing the thermal pads are not in place

Actually... without the thermal pads the capacitors are going to overheat
And this fits pretty well with the problems you have been reporting btw... PS3 works fine when is fresh (for the first 15 minutes or so), but when capacitors gets hot the PS3 says good bye o/

 

[SeanRanklin]

Ahh,

Thank you for the post on how to use the multimeter. This will come in handy, but not for this task it seems, as the post above mine essentially explains why I cant accurately check the capacitors unless i remove each one from the board.. which isnt going to happen, lol.

When i replaced the thermal paste on a previous model (CECHC01) i did forget to put some of those rubber pads back, as some broke apart and i was unsure of where to place some of them. But in this model i am having trouble with, i specicfically remember only having one of them fall out of place, to which i adjusted before i put the console back. So I know they are all OK.

Also, the shut downs are definitely not time related. They are triggered the exact same way, turn on tekken tag tournament 2, or tekken hybrid (playing the tekken tag 2 prologue demo) and while IN an actual gameplay match, after a random amount of time, it will shut down. No heat warning, temps are OK, fans are OK. Yet it just shuts down. This is definitely related to how the way the game was designed to run, i'm certain. But what i cant understand is that in the 10+ years of these consoles existing, there is not one solid remedy for this.

There are various reports and posts online from users experiencing this issue with certain games, but not one resolution, to which i find extremely bizzare. Surely SOMEONE out there has come across this issue and had it rectified without buying a new console.

The main games that seem to come up with this problem are:

- Tekken Tag 2
- Tekken Hybrid (Tekken tag 2 demo)
- Gran Turismo 6
- Uncharted 2 (i think?)
- Cod Black ops 2

I've searched the internet in the deepest corners to no avail.. how can such a problem exist with no remedy?

To reiterate; this is 100% definitely NOT related to overheating. I know this because i have played GTA 4 online and let the console idle for over an hour to the point that the dynamic fan control kicks in and then cools down. When the above shutdown occurs in tekken, the console doesnt even have a chance to reach over 60 celcius sometimes and just quits. It sounds power related, but how can a faulty capacitor or even PSU only show symptoms on a handful of games, most of which arent even all that graphically advanced for the console?

 

[Cypher_CG89]

Now that you mentioned these other games you have researched I may have another answer to your problem.

The games you have mentioned above are 'high' demand games on the memory, meaning they require alot if not all of your remaining memory (RAM) if this is maxed out or over taxed it requiring more than is remaining your PS3 will crash, simply shut down without warning. normally a message is displayed along the lines of 'Game cannot run correctly' although not all the time. I have experienced this myself a few times with Black Ops 2. Complete shut down in the middle of zombies offline.

You can check how much 'SystemOS' memory you have left with WebMAN by holding 'START + SELECT' on the XMB.

You can check how much gameOS memory (Memory set aside for running games) you have left with MultiMAN and go to 'System Information'.

 

[rjshooter]

The main games that seem to come up with this problem are:

- Tekken Tag 2
- Tekken Hybrid (Tekken tag 2 demo)
- Gran Turismo 6
- Uncharted 2 (i think?)
- Cod Black ops 2

Kingdom of Amalur also cause similar problem after reaching the first village.

The games you have mentioned above are 'high' demand games on the memory, meaning they require alot if not all of your remaining memory (RAM) if this is maxed out or over taxed it requiring more than is remaining your PS3 will crash, simply shut down without warning.

Are Kingdom of Amalur also one of 'high' demand games on memory?
Also, which means GTA 5 and Watchdog are not demanding a high RAM usage? Because I assume GTA 5 and Watchdog also require a lot of process, but those two game runs just fine.

At this point i'm confused which is the problem, the RAM or power supply...

 

[Vishera]

Kingdom of Amalur also cause similar problem after reaching the first village.



Are Kingdom of Amalur also one of 'high' demand games on memory?
Also, which means GTA 5 and Watchdog are not demanding a high RAM usage? Because I assume GTA 5 and Watchdog also require a lot of process, but those two game runs just fine.

At this point i'm confused which is the problem, the RAM or power supply...

There are games that were realeased without proper testing and patching that trigger that issue,
And there are games that trigger the problem due to a faulty component in the system.
In this case it looks like a faulty component.

I have a NAND launch model myself,and of all the games i tested and have only Gran Turismo 5 and 6 trigger that issue for me.
On Gran Turismo 5 it looks like a RAM problem in my console (it triggers the issue when the CPU tries to read replay data from the RAM)
If you skip the replay quick enough or quit the game when there is a replay it will bypass the issue with Gran Turismo 5.
But it looks like the problem is with my PS3 with that game,luckily the issue is extremely minor and can be bypassed on my console.
However Gran Turismo 6 will trigger the problem to ALL NAND MODELS,due to a bug in the game.

I have all of those games:

Tekken Tag 2
Tekken Hybrid (Tekken tag 2 demo)
Gran Turismo 6
Uncharted 2

Only Gran Turismo 6 triggers the issue from those games,i will say again that the problem is minor on my console and i can bypass it.

 

[nazareno]

Hi, a month ago I bought a ps3 fat because I needed one, I had YLOD but the funny thing is that after a few attempts the console turned on, but if I played or even being in XMB the console would turn off without a message of overheating, kill me thinking, I thought that the RSX was broken, until after a few messages with a technical friend told me to try reflow, and the RSX could have cold solders and after a while or when it gets a little hot it makes false contact and gives the yellow light with the 3 beeps and ends in red light, I tried it and it was really that, keep in mind that if in case welding is the problem it is best to do reballing but to get rid of the doubt, maybe it is not understood so well because I am using the google translator, my ps3 is one of 80 CECHL04.

 

[nazareno]

Keep in mind that the ps3 of 60 gb is the model that most heating problems and YLOD

 

[pinky]

it might be better just to buy a new system rather than fixing the old. a reflow or a reball will involve sending it to someone who has the appropriate machine. I don't know how much each one costs on average, but generally a reball is more expensive. maybe $80?

 

[Fanhais]

my 60gb pal can run every game without crash because the nec tokin not are to bad and i play the last of us and gt6 and don't crash so i think is power the problem of yours ps3 the nec tokin because they give power to cell and rsx to do stuff processing etc

 

[nazareno]

I made a flow flow with a temperature of 400 ° C at a distance of about 7 cm with a heat gun. in these cases it is not so much the problem since the consoles turn on and come to give video, not like other cases of YLOD that does not flash the led of the HDD and the yellow light comes out.

 

[pinky]

don't know about a heatgun, but it's suggested to use one of those machines.