PS3 Did I repaste this PS3 to death!?

Darash

Darash

Forum Noob
I have this PS3-phat model CECH-H04 that was overheating, so I delidded the IHS from both the Cell and the RSX and repasted it (with cheap Aliexpress thermal compound). I did it before on other PS3's and then cooling improved massively.

On this PS3 the cooling was better: at 30% fanspeed the Cell was about 55 °C, but the RSX was about 70 °C. I was not happy yet, so I repasted it a second time and the results were the same. Perhaps I used too cheap thermal compound, so I repasted it a third time, but now with premium grade Noctua NT-H1. But now it gave me three beeps and a red flashing light! To be sure I did not make any mistakes, I threw it apart a fourth time and repasted it again with Noctua, and again three beeps and a red flashing light!

What did I do wrong?
 
I only delid as a LAST ditch effort. To much can turn it into a perma paperweight. This will usually fix 80% of the PS3's as I have two perfectly running CECHA/B launch models that run just as cool as my CECH-2501A

https://www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/

But that solves majority of the issues with the need for a delid. Check this thread of mine for a launch model using a better PSU and runs amazing.

https://www.psx-place.com/threads/my-cechb-01-teensy-stealth.9534/
 
Grazie mille! Very interesting stuff!

So, first of all you are suggesting that I have a YLOD, right? I do see a yellow light for only a fraction of a second before it turns red. The NEC/TOKIN capacitors are on the bottom side of the mobo, right? It is interesting, because on one of my tear-downs, I perhaps put a little bit more pressure between the power supply and the Bluray, to pull the power supply away from the mobo. I believe that is exactly where these capacitors are.

I have this mobo from a dead CECH-3004A lying around. I believe it has 13 of these 470uF Tantalum SMD capacitors on it. Are they very heat sensitive to heat gun removal? Could I reuse them for this fix? And, how do I know which NEC/TOKIN is defective / which do I replace first?
 
Darash said:
Grazie mille! Very interesting stuff!

So, first of all you are suggesting that I have a YLOD, right? I do see a yellow light for only a fraction of a second before it turns red. The NEC/TOKIN capacitors are on the bottom side of the mobo, right? It is interesting, because on one of my tear-downs, I perhaps put a little bit more pressure between the power supply and the Bluray, to pull the power supply away from the mobo. I believe that is exactly where these capacitors are.

I have this mobo from a dead CECH-3004A lying around. I believe it has 13 of these 470uF Tantalum SMD capacitors on it. Are they very heat sensitive to heat gun removal? Could I reuse them for this fix? And, how do I know which NEC/TOKIN is defective / which do I replace first?
Click to expand...


You should be able to get them off with heat no problem. And the guide will tell you which ones you need to do first.
 
Thanks, perhaps I'm stupid, but I read the manual over and over and can't find a specific replacement order. I replace the one closest to the HDMI-port (A) first and see if the console boots. If it doesn't, I replace (B) or (C)?

89mqDLd


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X6exYY0tEYOu_kNZmpTKNMvcwgk0nLKr/view?usp=sharing
89mqDLd

1X6exYY0tEYOu_kNZmpTKNMvcwgk0nLKr
 
:sfun oldguy::grenade:
MyNameIsDiEgo said:
but he didnt do anything to the necs. Why would they be broken? Im thinking that he put too much pressure on the board and broke a solder ball on the cell or rsx or even something else. Since the console worked previously, the necs shouldnt be an issue.
Click to expand...
I agree... to much disturbance to the bga solder balls can make them Crack away from the motherboard. A proper reflow may bring the console back to life. Sometimes a reflow can be quite effective if done carefully and console could last a long time. But if rsx was overheating all the time it may have died. the cheapest and less work approach would be a reflow with the proper Flux. IMO
 
A cracked solder ball for sure. Happened to one of my consoles after giving it more pressure for better contact with the heat sink/thermal paste. After turning it on, no HDD led activity, nothing on the screen but stayed on. After a while, instant YLOD whenever I turned it on. Use the SYSCON, guide posted somewhere in the forum just to make sure or to identify the real cause of the YLOD.
 
Many thanks for the replies!

I did replace one of the Caps, but it did not change anything. I put it away for sometime to rethink my next steps. I think I will try a reflow and the replies above encourage me to do so and will post the results again!
 
Darash said:
Many thanks for the replies!

I did replace one of the Caps, but it did not change anything. I put it away for sometime to rethink my next steps. I think I will try a reflow and the replies above encourage me to do so and will post the results again!
Click to expand...
youre in for a ride dude. Dont want to be discouraging, but this is a bad situation youve gotten into. Reflows dont really work (for a long time at least) and its easy to damage something. Having a working bc unit that has been delided is really rare. You had a really good long lasting system but this thing that happened now kinda ruined it. I hope the reflow lasts.
 
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