PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting

RIP-Felix said:
Yes, those are all the relevant RSX voltage lines we were measuring off the board. Only now, we will be measuring them on the board to see if the ohm test's match up to what's expected. But that presents an issue. What's expected? Now that it's soldered on the board, those measurements will read different, due to parasitic inductance and resistance in the entire line.

This is why we need a working VER-001 to compare with. And other MB revisions for the matter.

BTW, I'm going to revise that picture to include some more of the CPU voltages. Thanks to @marciolsf's suggestion I look at IBM's Hardware Installation Guide for the 65nm Cell I have learned a TON more about the CPU, and incidentally about the RSX. It has to be something that affects the HDMI transmitter, but doesn't affect the Power On Reset or FlexIO Calibration (BitTraining). So that should rule out major voltages and solderballs/bumps.

IDK how useful this is to a VER-001, but for a COK-001 the following are required for HDMI Transmitter to work...
  • +1.5V_RSX_VDDIO, +5V_ANA, +3.3V_ANA, and +1.8V_ANA are making it to the Chip
  • +5V_ANA is making it to the Level Shifter (IC2501) and that it is recieving and shifting 1.5V <--> 3.3V for the folowing signals.
    • RS_SPD0 --[1.5V]--> IC2501 --[3.3V]--> RS_SPD0_33
    • /HDMI_INI --[3.3v]--> I assume SYSCON.
      • HDMI is powered and ready to be configured.
  • TH2501 is not blown
  • None of the Zener Diodes are Short
  • None of the Varistors are Short
  • None of the Caps are short
  • Induction Filters are not Short diagonally across themselves.
  • Q2502, Q2504, and Q2507 are not short.
  • R2520 & R2523 are not short or the SYSCON cannot communicate with the HDMI transmitter over I2C.
  • FB2501, FB2503, & FB2504 are not blown.
  • R2502 Isn't blown or HDMI Reset wont work.
Well, you get the idea...
Click to expand...


I checked all the things I could.
Shame that there is no schematic for other mobos, like VER-001.
Can't find the ANA power rails that you mentioned.
I will try to "deduct" it from the COK-001 schematic..

Anyway. Many thanks for this roadmap-like testing guide!


Ohm testing:
signal-2022-01-25-162644.jpeg

I made a a test bench for ver-001 with some heavy radiators to start it up and measure voltages from the opposite side.
Turns out that all voltages from the picture are present.
Especially, +1.5V_RSX_VDDIO is definitely present.


  • +1.5V_RSX_VDDIO, OK
  • +5V_ANA, NEED SCHEMATIC
  • +3.3V_ANA, NEED SCHEMATIC
  • +1.8V_ANA NEED SCHEMATIC
  • +5V_ANA is making it to the Level Shifter (IC2501)
    and that it is recieving and shifting 1.5V <--> 3.3V for the folowing signals.
    • RS_SPD0 --[1.5V]--> IC2501 --[3.3V]--> RS_SPD0_33
    • /HDMI_INI --[3.3v]--> I assume SYSCON.
      • HDMI is powered and ready to be configured.
  • TH2501 is not blown -------------------------- I can clearly see it on other boards, but not on VER-001...
  • None of the Zener Diodes are Short OK
  • None of the Varistors are Short OK
  • None of the Caps are short OK
  • Induction Filters are not Short diagonally across themselves. OK
  • Q2502, Q2504, and Q2507 are not short.--------------------------------searching for them on ver-001
  • R2520 & R2523 are not short-----------------------------------------------searching for them on ver-001
    or the SYSCON cannot communicate with
    the HDMI transmitter over I2C.
  • FB2501, FB2503, & FB2504 are not blown. ----------------------------searching for them on ver-001
  • R2502 Isn't blown or HDMI Reset wont work. ----------------------------searching it on ver-001
 
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SkaziChris said:
I checked all the things I could.
Shame that there is no schematic for other mobos, like VER-001.
Can't find the ANA power rails that you mentioned.
I will try to "deduct" it from the COK-001 schematic..

Anyway. Many thanks for this roadmap-like testing guide!


Ohm testing:
View attachment 35949

I made a a test bench for ver-001 with some heavy radiators to start it up and measure voltages from the opposite side.
Turns out that all voltages from the picture are present.
Especially, +1.5V_RSX_VDDIO is definitely present.


  • +1.5V_RSX_VDDIO, OK
  • +5V_ANA, NEED SCHEMATIC
  • +3.3V_ANA, NEED SCHEMATIC
  • +1.8V_ANA NEED SCHEMATIC
  • +5V_ANA is making it to the Level Shifter (IC2501)
    and that it is recieving and shifting 1.5V <--> 3.3V for the folowing signals.
    • RS_SPD0 --[1.5V]--> IC2501 --[3.3V]--> RS_SPD0_33
    • /HDMI_INI --[3.3v]--> I assume SYSCON.
      • HDMI is powered and ready to be configured.
  • TH2501 is not blown -------------------------- I can clearly see it on other boards, but not on VER-001...
  • None of the Zener Diodes are Short OK
  • None of the Varistors are Short OK
  • None of the Caps are short OK
  • Induction Filters are not Short diagonally across themselves. OK
  • Q2502, Q2504, and Q2507 are not short.--------------------------------searching for them on ver-001
  • R2520 & R2523 are not short-----------------------------------------------searching for them on ver-001
    or the SYSCON cannot communicate with
    the HDMI transmitter over I2C.
  • FB2501, FB2503, & FB2504 are not blown. ----------------------------searching for them on ver-001
  • R2502 Isn't blown or HDMI Reset wont work. ----------------------------searching it on ver-001
Click to expand...
Aaaand this took me a bit closer..

I took another VER-001 from doner boards and compared some values.
Q250x are fine - same readings.
FB250x are fine - same readings.

However...
When I was checking the smd's on the left side of the induction filters...
I cought a discrepancy.

Doner board has 8kO between pin 4 and 5,
while my board has 27 ohms...

Screenshot 2022-01-25 at 17.56.07.png

Could you guys check it out on some of your boards too?


I will attempt to remove these components 1 by 1...
And if none are left... and the 27 Ohms is still there...
That might mean that another Panasonic IC shit itself...
 
Try looking at the SEM-001 schematic, as its closest to the VER revision. Then compare the components nearby the HDMI chip on both sides of the MB. You should be able to infer the equivelent parts and circuit. But youll probably have to look up specifice part numbers and datasheets (if available) to work out details.

Having schematics certainly makes things easier.
 
I have another console that also gives errors for the thermal sensors, but does not turn on, instant YLOD :(
I delid cell and rsx, but that didn't help.
Code: 
>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0102131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0092131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0102131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0A02030 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0A02130 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0A02130 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0102131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F

bringup
00000000
# [SSM] Bringup Start.
# [PowSeq] Error:8402
# [SSM] PS0 ng.
# [SSM] Cond/Fatal received, msg=24D0.
# [SSM] Fataldown Start.
 
SkaziChris said:
Aaaand this took me a bit closer..

I took another VER-001 from doner boards and compared some values.
Q250x are fine - same readings.
FB250x are fine - same readings.

However...
When I was checking the smd's on the left side of the induction filters...
I cought a discrepancy.

Doner board has 8kO between pin 4 and 5,
while my board has 27 ohms...

View attachment 35950

Could you guys check it out on some of your boards too?


I will attempt to remove these components 1 by 1...
And if none are left... and the 27 Ohms is still there...
That might mean that another Panasonic IC shit itself...
Click to expand...
I've tested 3 different SSs mobos that I have at hand, all of them throw 23-24Kohms (output circuit is pretty similar). Did you say that you have now only black screen or some resolution incompatibilities? Those are behaviours that you need to write by hand in some important diary. If everything is OK in between RSX and the HDMI IC, then it could be that the old RSX somehow damaged the donor?

The problem here is that if you fix this issue by replacing the panasonic again, you won't be that sure if the problem was the RSX or the IC, right? Didn't follow your issue completely, but issues like these are a pain, and good resolutions are really welcome.
 
amxcs said:
I have another console that also gives errors for the thermal sensors, but does not turn on, instant YLOD :(
I delid cell and rsx, but that didn't help.
Code: 
>$ ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0102131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0092131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0A
00000000 A0102131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0B
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0C
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0D
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0E
00000000 A0A02030 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 0F
00000000 A0A02130 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 12
00000000 A0A02130 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 13
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 14
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 15
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 16
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 17
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 18
00000000 A0102131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 19
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1A
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1B
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1C
00000000 A0A02131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1D
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1E
00000000 A0112131 FFFFFFFF
>$ ERRLOG GET 1F

bringup
00000000
# [SSM] Bringup Start.
# [PowSeq] Error:8402
# [SSM] PS0 ng.
# [SSM] Cond/Fatal received, msg=24D0.
# [SSM] Fataldown Start.
Click to expand...
OMG, the fabled Step# 11.

So it does exist!

Try replacing the RSX thermal monitor.
 
The motherboard is VER-001.
I have another motherboard for parts - COK-002. Can I take the thermal monitor from it or are they different?
 
Oh no, the console had a warranty sticker. Lots of dust inside..
I bought 2 controllers and the console was a gift as not working.
 
Interesting case I bumped into @RIP-Felix

http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-ylod-repair-and-thermal-paste-change/

They claim to have repaired errors 202120 and 213013 with replacing a fuse and some smd caps (not a dead CPU after all, it's invisible :D) Then they got a livelock condition 1601/1701, but for some reason jumped to conclusion that the cause was failing capacitors. I have suspicions about that part... But it's sure lovely to see at least one repair place using syscon diagnostics.

In the next case they had errors 2113/2203/2022 fixed by replacing IC5001 http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-ylod-repair-2/

This one is caps replacement again http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-backwards-compatible-royal-treatment/

Another one with the options to reball or replace (would they actually replace with 40nm or just another 90nm ?).. I guess the customer chose to reball. http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-syscon-log-and-why-its-so-important-to-diagnosing-the-fault/
 
Last edited:
DeadEnd said:
Interesting case I bumped into @RIP-Felix

http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-ylod-repair-and-thermal-paste-change/

They claim to have repaired errors 202120 and 213013 with replacing a fuse and some smd caps (not a dead CPU after all, it's invisible :D) Then they got a livelock condition 1601/1701, but for some reason jumped to conclusion that the cause was failing capacitors. I have suspicions about that part... But it's sure lovely to see at least one repair place using syscon diagnostics.

In the next case they had errors 2113/2203/2022 fixed by replacing IC5001 http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-ylod-repair-2/

This one is caps replacement again http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-backwards-compatible-royal-treatment/

Another one with the options to reball or replace (would they actually replace with 40nm or just another 90nm ?).. I guess the customer chose to reball. http://aceconsolerepairs.com.au/ps3-syscon-log-and-why-its-so-important-to-diagnosing-the-fault/
Click to expand...

it warms my heart that the gospel if syscon-based diagnostics is spreading!

On other news, Im thinking about buying reball equipment in a little bit… sure, you can still spend $1500+ on really nice equipment, but it looks like you might be able to put it all together (pre-heaters, infrared workstation) on a budget for around $300 and give or take a handful of other things. For those of you that have taken the plunge, does that sound reasonable? or am I setting myself up to buy a bunch of stuff that won't cut it?
 
marciolsf said:
it warms my heart that the gospel if syscon-based diagnostics is spreading!

On other news, Im thinking about buying reball equipment in a little bit… sure, you can still spend $1500+ on really nice equipment, but it looks like you might be able to put it all together (pre-heaters, infrared workstation) on a budget for around $300 and give or take a handful of other things. For those of you that have taken the plunge, does that sound reasonable? or am I setting myself up to buy a bunch of stuff that won't cut it?
Click to expand...

Well, felix used a bottom heater for like 200$ and a hot air for the top from a regular soldering station... But I'm not a fan of hot air, especially when lead-free is involved. There are also schematics online which you can use to build your own station. The good ones will use temperature stepping and automatic profiles. Unfortunately, it takes a lot of materials to build it and get it to a working condition. You'd also need a lot of time. Although PID controllers may be a simpler variant.
 
Last edited:
DeadEnd said:
Well, felix used a bottom heater for like 200$ and a hot air for the top from a regular soldering station... But I'm not a fan of hot air, especially when lead-free is involved. There are also schematics online which you can use to build your own station. The good ones will use temperature stepping and automatic profiles. Unfortunately, it takes a lot of materials to build it and get it to a working condition. You'd also need a lot of time. Although PID controllers may be a simpler variant.
Click to expand...

those are some good pointers, thanks! What about infrared, instead of hot air? This is one I've been looking at, for example, though not necessarily this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WELDER...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
 
Based on mostly rework station that would work well and faster to desolder /solder in good condition bottom heating 2000 w nearly, top can be 450 w IR or 800 w HR.
Otherwise people will always going to struggle desolder. Apart from that very straight and strong enough jig to work while heat will prevent deformation. Many scrap boards will help calibration of right profile. I use manual stages 120 /180/210/232 /. Each board will be different situation. There are slower and faster periods to reach liquid stage for lead free. Leaded alloy is always easy to be solder.
 
marciolsf said:
it warms my heart that the gospel if syscon-based diagnostics is spreading!

On other news, Im thinking about buying reball equipment in a little bit… sure, you can still spend $1500+ on really nice equipment, but it looks like you might be able to put it all together (pre-heaters, infrared workstation) on a budget for around $300 and give or take a handful of other things. For those of you that have taken the plunge, does that sound reasonable? or am I setting myself up to buy a bunch of stuff that won't cut it?
Click to expand...

I swear to you, i'm the guy on reddit telling people "you're doing it wrong, SYSCON first!"
Probably almost 10 years ago at this point, I was reballing Xbox 360 consoles using a T8280 pre-heater and an aoyue 968 hot air wand on a microscope heater with a manual profile ofcourse.
I feel like during that time, I reflowed exactly one PS3 but never tried reballing one back then. I do currently use an ACHI IR PRO, perhaps if you look around you can find a suitable machine thats used cheap? I had gotten a fancy ones two years ago with the touch screens and many zones on the bottom heater (forget the model) but the seller literally didn't pack it at all and it came broken to pieces.
 
Hi,

My PS3 BC recently recently died with YLOD and had someone fix it with new nec tokins and did a reball. but still no luck. The syscon shows this error (image below). Is this still repairable?

Hope someone can help me out. Thank you!

271826405_786192295585503_5164341864549178058_n.png
 
If the budget reaally tight. You can just get this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002869922306.html plus hot air station with a stand. I suppose that's as c heap as it can really get. Especially if you plan to order preballed RSX. If you plan to desolder them off slim boards and reball yourself, you'd need a reballing jig and good flux. But those aren't too pricey either. So yuo can fit into around 300$ this way...
 
Well...
I speak from experience...
and these soldering stations above... are no good for PS3.
Trust me, it will only end up with ripped pads under RSX.

I am using LY IR PRO SC v3, and it does the job well (as long as you set the profile correctly, which may take a few tries on scrap boards).
I can recommend it as an average-cost, but decent for repairing ps3.. xbox... and motherboards of similar thickness.

https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/stacja-lutownicza-ly-ir-pro-sc-v3-jak-nowa-2400w-i7244584796.html



Of course, the best would be a soldering jig from Jovy Systems 8500... but too expensive!


Now regarding the flux...
For desoldering and cleaning, you can preety much use any flux, even a fake amtech from China.

But for proper reballing and resoldering the IC back...
I use warthon metals jelly flux - very thin layer of flux - and it does the job perfectly every time.
 
SkaziChris said:
Well...
I speak from experience...
and these soldering stations above... are no good for PS3.
Trust me, it will only end up with ripped pads under RSX.

I am using LY IR PRO SC v3, and it does the job well (as long as you set the profile correctly, which may take a few tries on scrap boards).
I can recommend it as an average-cost, but decent for repairing ps3.. xbox... and motherboards of similar thickness.

https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/stacja-lutownicza-ly-ir-pro-sc-v3-jak-nowa-2400w-i7244584796.html



Of course, the best would be a soldering jig from Jovy Systems 8500... but too expensive!


Now regarding the flux...
For desoldering and cleaning, you can preety much use any flux, even a fake amtech from China.

But for proper reballing and resoldering the IC back...
I use warthon metals jelly flux - very thin layer of flux - and it does the job perfectly every time.
Click to expand...

Fake china flux is toxic as hell. I use *EDITED* AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF or Stirri variant
 
Last edited:
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