PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting

Pacorretaco said:
Ok, but are we talking about the CPU or the RSX now?
The RSX right? I'm a bit confused.
Click to expand...
You tell us. I thought you were talking about the RSX originally. Sounded like victor is talking about the CPU, so I'm cunfused too. Where are you getting the voltage spikes?

I don't think the IOR VRM are going to be an easy feat, so I would try the easier stuff first. I'm not sure how they are attached (BGA or what-have-you. EDIT: It's LGA). Add a few tantalums and replace the Inductors. Test and lets see what happens. If nothing changes, not a big deal. You can try replacing the IOR.

Before any of that. You did probe every cap and resistor in the filter area looking for shorts? Those components are very important for voltage sensing, so if one is shorting it could easily explain what's happening. Be sure they are good before fixing what ain't broke.

EDIT: to answer your question, yes the voltage output from the VRM can go up like that after the inductor are removed, because now it isn't sensing the output correctly. Or because it's dead...lol!

EDIT2: Looking at the DATA sheet for the IOR VRM they shouldn't output more than 3.3v out max. They shouldn't see more than 5.5v in max. If it's outputting more than that, it could very well be dead. And that would explain the 1002's and 3004! It could also overvolt the tokins, and tantalums you put in. So keep an eye out for the magic smoke, and hold your breath (it's toxic).
 
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vyktormvmpay25 said:
Nand 0 is beside psata connection for bd drive.
It will be hard to read without clip ziff over nands. If you want to start first need to understand where all wires goes. Nands are harder then nor. A bad flash will ylod unit.
Click to expand...
I plan on soldering right to the pins. I have the board under bright light and a magnifying glass. .5mm tip on the iron and everything else ready to go.

I plan on making several dump of each chip

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RCWD21 said:
I plan on soldering right to the pins. I have the board under bright light and a magnifying glass. .5mm tip on the iron and everything else ready to go.

I plan on making several dump of each chip

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Ok if you manage to get them right be careful to share with trusted developers from here. I don't really know if patch of 3.55 will let you reinstall fw or it should be a specific lower patch/manual correction. You may need to wait before flash anything back. Wait for trusted developers to answer.
 
RIP-Felix said:
You tell us. I thought you were talking about the RSX originally. Sounded like victor is talking about the CPU, so I'm cunfused too. Where are you getting the voltage spikes?

I don't think the IOR VRM are going to be an easy feat, so I would try the easier stuff first. I'm not sure how they are attached (BGA or what-have-you. EDIT: It's LGA). Add a few tantalums and replace the Inductors. Test and lets see what happens. If nothing changes, not a big deal. You can try replacing the IOR.

Before any of that. You did probe every cap and resistor in the filter area looking for shorts? Those components are very important for voltage sensing, so if one is shorting it could easily explain what's happening. Be sure they are good before fixing what ain't broke.

EDIT: to answer your question, yes the voltage output from the VRM can go up like that after the inductor are removed, because now it isn't sensing the output correctly. Or because it's dead...lol!

EDIT2: Looking at the DATA sheet for the IOR VRM they shouldn't output more than 3.3v out max. They shouldn't see more than 5.5v in max. If it's outputting more than that, it could very well be dead. And that would explain the 1002's and 3004! It could also overvolt the tokins, and tantalums you put in. So keep an eye out for the magic smoke, and hold your breath (it's toxic).
Click to expand...
Rsx, I was always focused on the RSX. That's where I noticed the abnormal voltage and that's where I removed coils as in the picture etc. I didn't really give much thought to the CPU. I had no reasons to be suspicious of it. But even at the beginning I did check the CPU voltage too and it was fine about 1v.
So RSX.

And sure the order of operations depends on that question because if the 4v are indeed wrong already... (Which I'll confirm tomorrow) then replacing tokins and such will be bad idea because they may even be damaged if they receive the high voltage. (Hopefully not in 1 second but still)
I could not find shorts or anything else obviously wrong.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
Ok if you manage to get them right be careful to share with trusted developers from here. I don't really know if patch of 3.55 will let you reinstall fw or it should be a specific lower patch/manual correction. You may need to wait before flash anything back. Wait for trusted developers to answer.
Click to expand...
I only plan on reading the flash. I definitely don't want to perma brick this console.

I just wish these pins were a teeny bit bigger [emoji28]

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vyktormvmpay25 said:
Did nobody added ver001 rx, Tx pins? This should help http://s.go.ro/ac0t4tgm
1daa2643455b7771d8e7491e5aaa7cfa.jpg

Edit
Forgot to ask for any information about super slim 2022 error could be same as phat models CXM4072R ic dead?
Click to expand...

Tried soldering to these points, got no UART interface. I'm gonna try sniffing with a digital analyzer to see if I can see UART.
 
Well after spending about 3 and half hours cleaning bridged contact pins I'm about ready to send this board to someone and have them solder everything on or just buy another nand clip and use that.

My joints just aren't up to the task of soldering on that fine a level anymore.

Luckily the pins look clean but I'm going to use my DVM and make sure none of them are bridged in the morning.

Anyone got a nand clip they wanna sell me? [emoji23]
0ca292ffde728ffcca743609731fe2ab.jpg
f0de8fbe23e13e4a618ef3b748361592.jpg


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RCWD21 said:
Well after spending about 3 and half hours cleaning bridged contact pins I'm about ready to send this board to someone and have them solder everything on or just buy another nand clip and use that.

My joints just aren't up to the task of soldering on that fine a level anymore.

Luckily the pins look clean but I'm going to use my DVM and make sure none of them are bridged in the morning.

Anyone got a nand clip they wanna sell me? [emoji23]
0ca292ffde728ffcca743609731fe2ab.jpg
f0de8fbe23e13e4a618ef3b748361592.jpg


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Click to expand...

That just looks like you didn't use flux, or really shitty flux.
 
Oh and here is the log pulled from my console with the task command that I thought may shed some limited insight, I'm not exactly sure what all this is but figured I'd post it anyways as I'm curious about it and would like to learn more about the inner workings of the syscon:


>$ task
task
TaskName ID PRI Stat EVT StkStrAddr Size CrntStkPtr Crnt Peak
SSM 1 21 WAI RDQ 0x02001c7c 1024 0x02002018 9% 57%
UISW 2 25 RDY ... 0x0200207c 512 0x02002228 16% 55%
UILED 3 26 WAI FLG 0x0200227c 512 0x02002418 19% 24%
COMMRECV 4 22 WAI FLG 0x0200247c 1024 0x020026d0 41% 66%
CONSOLE 5 24 RDY ... 0x0200287c 2560 0x02002d60 51% 74%
FIRMUD 6 27 WAI SLP 0x0200327c 512 0x02003400 24% 28%
SB 7 6 WAI FLG 0x0200347c 512 0x02003618 19% 53%
POWERSEQ 8 23 WAI RDQ 0x0200367c 1024 0x02003a20 8% 73%
SERV_DIAG 9 45 WAI RDQ 0x02003a7c 768 0x02003d08 15% 18%
SERV_HDMI 10 45 WAI RDQ 0x02003d7c 1024 0x02004108 11% 53%
SERV_SECU 11 45 WAI RDQ 0x0200417c 1024 0x02004508 11% 55%
HDMIINTR 12 4 WAI SLP 0x0200457c 512 0x02004718 19% 24%
HDMISM0 13 43 WAI FLG 0x0200477c 768 0x020049f8 17% 45%
IDLE 14 64 RDY ... 0x02004a7c 128 0x02004aa0 71% 87%
SERV_MISC2 15 45 WAI RDQ 0x02004afc 1024 0x02004e90 10% 50%
SERV_THERM 16 45 WAI RDQ 0x02004efc 768 0x02005188 15% 61%
........... 0 0 DMT ... 0x020051fc 768 0x00000000 0% 0%
SERV_MISC 18 45 WAI RDQ 0x020054fc 1024 0x02005890 10% 81%
WMM0 19 11 WAI FLG 0x020058fc 512 0x02005a90 21% 49%
........... 0 0 DMT ... 0x02005afc 768 0x00000000 0% 0%
WMM1 21 30 RDY ... 0x02005dfc 768 0x02006090 14% 48%
LOG_ERROR 22 62 WAI RDQ 0x020060fc 512 0x02006288 22% 58%
CC_CGMS 23 4 DMT ... 0x020062fc 512 0x02006498 19% 24%
INTRNOTIF 24 8 WAI RDQ 0x020064fc 256 0x020065a0 35% 45%
SIRCS 25 5 WAI RDQ 0x020065fc 512 0x02006768 28% 33%
Crnt Idle Rate : 66%[0x00013925]
Max Idle Rate : 66%[0x00013926]
Min Idle Rate : 11%[0x000037e6]​
 
lovetohax said:
That just looks like you didn't use flux, or really shitty flux.
Click to expand...
No I did, what happened is I wiped the tip of the iron and it picked up a tiny little blob of solder and I didn't realize it and it wicked in around the pins. I don't do a lot of soldering this tiny so I'm not 100% setup for it so that didn't help

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Dont desperate, at that sizes every solder point is like playing a roulette, we never have a 100% percentage of success, the most we can get with very good tools and experience is like 90% :D

But the tools (and tricks) counts a lot, the flux and the desolder wick are a "must have"... right now you need to cleanup the pins with desolder wick to remove the bridge, and start again, be patient you are going to fall in that problem many times
If your solder iron is low temperature then no worry, you can repeat the solders as many times you want without damaging anything

One of the things that helps a lot is to use a high quality wire (in other words... the wires labeled as "kynar"), are single core and have a bath of silver, they attachs to metals naturally... with kynar wire and flux is a lot easyer, seriouslly, is like some "chemical magic" that happens at atomic level

And there is a method that helps a lot too, by using kapton tape to cover the surronding pins, the kapton tape resits temperatures over 300ºC so you can touch it with the tip of the solder iron and doesnt melts
Lets say you need to solder the wire in pin 48 of the flash chip... so you cut 2 stripes of kapton tape and you cover pins 47 and 49 with the kapton tape... then you solder in 48

Personally... i made similar things with other materials... the concept is the same... you need to isolate the surrounding pins with something... this way it doesnt matters if the solder iron tip goes a bit out of control because you cant really "touch" the surrounding pins, and the melted solder is not going to be "chemically attracted" to the surrounding pins
I did it with normal plastic tape (lol), with a couple of razor blades (like gillettes), and even with wooden toothsticks (yeah the wood resists the heat well)

Just try again, eventually it will work ;)
And more important thing... before powering the console double check and triple check everything with a multimeter to see if you have bridges, dont trust your eyes (not even with a magnifyer glass because sometimes the solder gets behind the pins and cant be seen). Only trust the multimeter
 
sandungas said:
Dont desperate, at that sizes every solder point is like playing a roulette, we never have a 100% percentage of success, the most we can get with very good tools and experience is like 90% :D

But the tools (and tricks) counts a lot, the flux and the desolder wick are a "must have"... right now you need to cleanup the pins with desolder wick to remove the bridge, and start again, be patient you are going to fall in that problem many times
If your solder iron is low temperature then no worry, you can repeat the solders as many times you want without damaging anything

One of the things that helps a lot is to use a high quality wire (in other words... the wires labeled as "kynar"), are single core and have a bath of silver, they attachs to metals naturally... with kynar wire and flux is a lot easyer, seriouslly, is like some "chemical magic" that happens at atomic level

And there is a method that helps a lot too, by using kapton tape to cover the surronding pins, the kapton tape resits temperatures over 300ºC so you can touch it with the tip of the solder iron and doesnt melts
Lets say you need to solder the wire in pin 48 of the flash chip... so you cut 2 stripes of kapton tape and you cover pins 47 and 49 with the kapton tape... then you solder in 48

Personally... i made similar things with other materials... the concept is the same... you need to isolate the surrounding pins with something... this way it doesnt matters if the solder iron tip goes a bit out of control because you cant really "touch" the surrounding pins, and the melted solder is not going to be "chemically attracted" to the surrounding pins
I did it with normal plastic tape (lol), with a couple of razor blades (like gillettes), and even with wooden toothsticks (yeah the wood resists the heat well)

Just try again, eventually it will work ;)
And more important thing... before powering the console double check and triple check everything with a multimeter to see if you have bridges, dont trust your eyes (not even with a magnifyer glass because sometimes the solder gets behind the pins and cant be seen). Only trust the multimeter
Click to expand...
I've got everything you just listed lol but I'm going to get a better magnifying set up as the one I normally use is a bit too weak for this task. And I always check for bridged contacts even if they're high mass joints on the edge of a board.

The pins are clean now, though I'm going to ohm each pin to make sure I'm not starting with any shorts that I can't see.

I have 100ft of 26awg kynar wire, desoldering wick, my favorite flux, a digital soldering station with adjustable temps and a hot air gun next to it. 10mm kapton tape and real 63/37 solder.

I'll try again tomorrow and go a lot slower but either way thanks for the encouragement [emoji16]

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Well, if you was using kynar and flux i guess the wires are attaching easilly to the pins and what is driving you crazy are the bridges
There is a link in wiki to a pretty cool tutorial with photos of how to use the kapton tape to solder wires to a flash chip by masking the surrounding pins, but the page seems to be down, not sure if can be recovered with the wayback machine, is this link http://ultrakeet.com.au/write-ups/kaptonMasking

Basically, you need to cut stripes of kapton tape to cover the other pins... and you can also "insert" the stripes of kapton tape in between the pins vertically
Is pretty much like adding "garbage" in the surroundings of the pin you are going to solder... if the garbage gets burned when soldering (like what i said when i did it with normal plastic or wood) doesnt matters because can be cleaned up later with isopropil alcohol
 
Exactly, its the bridged pins on such a small chip and solder that wants to be a little too god at its job! I'll definitely try that idea tomorrow though! I think I have a dead ps2 I can practice on some to see how it goes.

Oh and how long is too long on the wires going to the teensy? I know the shorter the better but would roughly 8 inches be an alright length?

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Use amtech gel flux, it makes all the difference. Don't worry about bridges, a small amount of solder comes away with your clean tip each time you touch the blob. So all you have to do is clean the tip, touch and repeat until the bridge clears. There is no danger of screwing up. Just use flux and keep at it until you get it right.

Stay calm and carry on!
 
sandungas said:
Well, if you was using kynar and flux i guess the wires are attaching easilly to the pins and what is driving you crazy are the bridges
There is a link in wiki to a pretty cool tutorial with photos of how to use the kapton tape to solder wires to a flash chip by masking the surrounding pins, but the page seems to be down, not sure if can be recovered with the wayback machine, is this link http://ultrakeet.com.au/write-ups/kaptonMasking

Basically, you need to cut stripes of kapton tape to cover the other pins... and you can also "insert" the stripes of kapton tape in between the pins vertically
Is pretty much like adding "garbage" in the surroundings of the pin you are going to solder... if the garbage gets burned when soldering (like what i said when i did it with normal plastic or wood) doesnt matters because can be cleaned up later with isopropil alcohol
Click to expand...
What do I think about his situation? Ros 0 is 2.35 and ros1 is 4.86. His dumps should be patched at 3.55 fsm and should install blind ofw in fsm? Or it must come back from 3.20 then install a fw that fix rsod for nootheros. I can't remember how I've fixed this kind of situation, but I had fixed somehow. Had one with headache, then second I've installed only fw in stages like 2,35 to something that fix/patches that nootheros problems, then Rogero 999 downgrader. Can't remember really but was something like that.
 
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