PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting

yanvbraz said:
Aww that sucks, well at least this unit served to restore another unit that had a faulty BD drive and missing components. About replacing Tokins, I might give it a try later since looks like I don't anything to lose now xD
Click to expand...

You might want to look at this, I also have encountered the infamous 3010 error. I came across this error whilst fixing a overheating error. See link below for part 3 which address the 3010 error, in my case it looks almost certain to be a CPU BGA issue.

 
Hey there everyone! Sorry for bothering you, but I have a question about my PS3 that I bought recently. So this is a backwards compatible CECHC04 with YLOD. I dissasembled it and accidentaly disconected BluRay drive ribbon, then I turned on console, and there was no YLOD. However, I were unable to play anything, because there was no games on HDD. But when I plugged BluRay back, I still got my lovely YLOD. Could it be a faulty daughterboard? I'm still waiting for my SysCon Reader USB (somethingsomething) to arrive, but I really need you'r suggestions. Seller told me, that he were playing it normally, but in very hot summer he left console on, and then he got this YLOD. Fun fact, when I dissasembled whole console, I could'nt find retaining flap/hatch on motherboard, that holds ribbon cable. So I were using a piece of thick plastic. I also investigated ribbon cable and i can see an air bubbles. If I'll find a video, I will show it to you, but I strongly need your help! One of my mates told me, that daughterboard (bd pcb) could be shorted. Sadly, I don't have any multimeters now to test it.

Any ideas?
 
m3duard said:
Hey there everyone! Sorry for bothering you, but I have a question about my PS3 that I bought recently. So this is a backwards compatible CECHC04 with YLOD. I dissasembled it and accidentaly disconected BluRay drive ribbon, then I turned on console, and there was no YLOD. However, I were unable to play anything, because there was no games on HDD. But when I plugged BluRay back, I still got my lovely YLOD. Could it be a faulty daughterboard? I'm still waiting for my SysCon Reader USB (somethingsomething) to arrive, but I really need you'r suggestions. Seller told me, that he were playing it normally, but in very hot summer he left console on, and then he got this YLOD. Fun fact, when I dissasembled whole console, I could'nt find retaining flap/hatch on motherboard, that holds ribbon cable. So I were using a piece of thick plastic. I also investigated ribbon cable and i can see an air bubbles. If I'll find a video, I will show it to you, but I strongly need your help! One of my mates told me, that daughterboard (bd pcb) could be shorted. Sadly, I don't have any multimeters now to test it.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
I happened to bump into this video, looks like after fixing the tokins, the BD daughterboard has a shorted capacitor so it causes short YLOD if BD is connected:

He then used a thermal imaging camera to find out the hotspot and successfully replaced the shorted cap.
 
Timbo9876 said:
You might want to look at this, I also have encountered the infamous 3010 error. I came across this error whilst fixing a overheating error. See link below for part 3 which address the 3010 error, in my case it looks almost certain to be a CPU BGA issue.

Click to expand...
Good to know the 3010 was a BGA issue. I suspected as much, but didn't have enough evidence to support the hunch.

What do you plan on doing with those other 6 consoles with BGA defects that are working with the pressure mod?

Just a bit of constructive criticism based on some of your comments from the last few videos. That painters knife scares me. I suggest making a proper delidding tool. Also, the flux only helps lubricate the tool, so it slides on the silicone better. It doesn't help transfer heat, that explanation makes no sense. Speaking of which, I suggest you stop using heat altogether, it can lead to BGA defects. IDK if that may have had to do with any of these BGA defects or not, I'm just pointing out that many people have popped BGA's using heat as you did while delidding. It's a bad habit that other experienced techs also seem to have.

Your methodology for temp testing would be better if you chose the same location in game and always used it. Setting webMAN to 68C and using the fan % as a measure of thermal performance is "my preferrance," but I see you like to use a constant Fan% and check temps. That's fine, but you need to use the same Fan% between runs or the temps are meaningless to compare. I noticed you were running them at 32% then 35% and saying how much lower they were. Of course they're lower, you increased the fan!

Lastly, if you can solder the pads to get the SYSCON codes, you can figure out how to get the errorlogs with CMD line, instead of that broken windows program. It only returns 20 of the 32 errors in the log anyway.
 
RIP-Felix said:
Setting webMAN to 68C and using the fan % as a measure of thermal performance is "my preferrance,"
Click to expand...

I was fiddling with my webman settings the other day, and that got me thinking it would be helpful to standardize temp testing, somewhere on the wiki. I remember you documented some of that a while ago, for both an unmodded and modded bc A01, but we could start a whole table based on model/webman settings/test type.

I wasn't sure what would be the ideal settings, but what you described above would be a good starting point. For test type, it would be ideal if we had some "universal tests" like XMB idle, media player, etc — something anyone could do. Then we could have "advanced tests" with specific games/areas (TLOU, GT7, Uncharted 3, etc), as well as duration (5-15 mins?)

I don't think i have wiki rights to do this, but if you guys think that'd be helpful, @sandungas could setup a template and I'd do the rest with as much hardware I can test with…
 
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RIP-Felix said:
Not after assuming it was the Tokins first...lol! I didn't see any SYSCON codes!

Interesting none the less. Too bad I don't understand Japanese.
Click to expand...
He did replaced two tokins first and I didn't see he did any oscilloscope testing, it sorta fixed the YLOD if no BD was plugged in. I was surprised it was a BC model that's not BGA failure but tokins.

I can only read a little Japanese so have to turn on auto captions.
 
feng_ye said:
I happened to bump into this video, looks like after fixing the tokins, the BD daughterboard has a shorted capacitor so it causes short YLOD if BD is connected:

He then used a thermal imaging camera to find out the hotspot and successfully replaced the shorted cap.
Click to expand...


So, I assume I need a regular cappacitors and "mushroom" soldering to test it out? Kinda sounds legit to me, because prev owner said that console was overheating badly.
 
I watched whole video. My problem is a bit different. As I can see, he connect power for BD PCB, which in my case works just fine. Problem shows up when i connect RIBBON cable to the motherboard. The one, that sends a receives data from the disk itself. Large ribbon cable, if you wish. I already bought replacement and will change it soon. After that, I'll leave an update.
 
m3duard said:
I watched whole video. My problem is a bit different. As I can see, he connect power for BD PCB, which in my case works just fine. Problem shows up when i connect RIBBON cable to the motherboard. The one, that sends a receives data from the disk itself. Large ribbon cable, if you wish. I already bought replacement and will change it soon. After that, I'll leave an update.
Click to expand...
So your console boots without the Ribbon cable?

If so then you don't need a UART adapter to check the SYSCON errorlog. You can just use PS3 Advanced Tools to do it. You need custom firmware tho. This is detailed in my tutorial.
 
RIP-Felix said:
Good to know the 3010 was a BGA issue. I suspected as much, but didn't have enough evidence to support the hunch.

What do you plan on doing with those other 6 consoles with BGA defects that are working with the pressure mod?

Just a bit of constructive criticism based on some of your comments from the last few videos. That painters knife scares me. I suggest making a proper delidding tool. Also, the flux only helps lubricate the tool, so it slides on the silicone better. It doesn't help transfer heat, that explanation makes no sense. Speaking of which, I suggest you stop using heat altogether, it can lead to BGA defects. IDK if that may have had to do with any of these BGA defects or not, I'm just pointing out that many people have popped BGA's using heat as you did while delidding. It's a bad habit that other experienced techs also seem to have.

Your methodology for temp testing would be better if you chose the same location in game and always used it. Setting webMAN to 68C and using the fan % as a measure of thermal performance is "my preferrance," but I see you like to use a constant Fan% and check temps. That's fine, but you need to use the same Fan% between runs or the temps are meaningless to compare. I noticed you were running them at 32% then 35% and saying how much lower they were. Of course they're lower, you increased the fan!

Lastly, if you can solder the pads to get the SYSCON codes, you can figure out how to get the errorlogs with CMD line, instead of that broken windows program. It only returns 20 of the 32 errors in the log anyway.
Click to expand...

Hi felix,

So the other 6 consoles have been loaned out to friends and family, I wanted to test how long the mod would last for until it failed. So far none have failed, except for the one that didn't pass my stress test.

I take on board what you are saying about the heat, I was concerned I created the 3010 error myself as I used heat to help remove the heat spreader. So yes, absolutely I won't use heat in future.

I do use like for like testing when it comes to in game temps of CPU and GPU, it seems in the recording you watched I had the fan set incorrectly that's my mistake and I will make sure that doesn't happen again in future.

Thanks for your advice, I will say one thing on the removal of the CPU heat spreader, I did another delid with less heat and it was harder to remove, it was still a successful delid but more controlled force was needed. Saying that I agree 100 percent if there is any chance of creating a BGA defect then its simply not worth the risk.

In terms of making a delidding tool, maybe it would help the community if you could do a YouTube recording on how to make one, I'm dyslexic so video tuts are better for me.

If you know someone or want to do the CPU reballs on my consoles with BGA defects then let me know. I can get them back, obviously I would be happy to pay for the work to be done, just not full price as 130 pounds per console is a bit steep.

Yes, I will be running python in future to obtain my syscon errors, makes sense to obtain as many error codes as possible.

Thanks for the guidance
 
RIP-Felix said:
So your console boots without the Ribbon cable?

If so then you don't need a UART adapter to check the SYSCON errorlog. You can just use PS3 Advanced Tools to do it. You need custom firmware tho. This is detailed in my tutorial.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it boots without it normally. Sadly tho, i were trying to install firmware without bluray drive and got stuck on installing it. I have no clue what to do now. I'll check your guide now, thanks in advance.

So, I am unable to install custom CWF, because I don't have ANYTHING installed on it. That was my fault tho.
 
m3duard said:
Yeah, it boots without it normally. Sadly tho, i were trying to install firmware without bluray drive and got stuck on installing it. I have no clue what to do now. I'll check your guide now, thanks in advance.

So, I am unable to install custom CWF, because I don't have ANYTHING installed on it. That was my fault tho.
Click to expand...
Did you say your ribbon connector on the mainboard is broken? Have you tested that? It might just be some power pin shorted to ground due to the connection socket was compromised
 
feng_ye said:
Did you say your ribbon connector on the mainboard is broken? Have you tested that? It might just be some power pin shorted to ground due to the connection socket was compromised
Click to expand...

Well, I'm not sure if it is broken. I tested ribbon cable itself, and every pin is ok. The only thing I know is the retaining flap on ps3 mb is missing, and instead of it i'm using a thick piece of plastic to seal it shut. Dunno, but it doesn't seem to be a problem, because even before I tried to "fix everything by myself" I broke it / lost it.
Anyways I'll wait untill my BD motherboard will arrive
 
m3duard said:
Well, I'm not sure if it is broken. I tested ribbon cable itself, and every pin is ok. The only thing I know is the retaining flap on ps3 mb is missing, and instead of it i'm using a thick piece of plastic to seal it shut. Dunno, but it doesn't seem to be a problem, because even before I tried to "fix everything by myself" I broke it / lost it.
Anyways I'll wait untill my BD motherboard will arrive
Click to expand...

So your plastic locking flap is broke and your using some plastic to wedge your ribbon cable into the slot. Now I have been there before and you ideally want the broken off plastic piece as it can be pushed back in which then locks in the ribbon cable.

If its not done correctly you could potentially damage the pins in the slot, so when you push the ribbon cable in it could potentially complete the short the broken pins have created.

With the top of the console off you should hold the ribbon cable in manually and try to boot the console. If this works then you know its the way you have held the ribbon cable in with the plastic your using.

If it doesn't work then you will need to try a new ribbon cable. You could test this by disconnecting the ribbon cable.from your drive and see if the console boots with the ridden cable connected to your motherboard but not the drive. If you still get a short its either a broken ribbon cable or broken pins on the MB. If the console boots then you may have an issue with your BD drive.
 
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bad psu?

Firmware Version: 4.89 (build 50740)
Platform ID: CokB10
Product Code: 00 85
Product Sub Code: 00 03
Hardware Config: 20000000FFFFFEFF
Syscon Fimware Version: 0C16.0001000100030003 (EEPROM: 0001000100030003)
Bringup Count: 513, Shutdown Count: 474
Runtime: 38 Days, 14 Hours, 9 Minutes, 45 Seconds
Error Log
01: A0802022 Sun Jan 8 22:12:15 2006
02: A0802022 Sun Jan 8 22:10:13 2006
03: A0802022 Sun Jan 8 22:08:26 2006
04: A0802022 Sun Jan 8 22:01:34 2006
05: A0801001 Wed Jan 4 20:45:30 2006
06: A0801601 Mon Jan 2 08:19:30 2006
07: A0801701 Mon Jan 2 08:19:30 2006
08: A0801001 Mon Jan 2 06:07:30 2006
09: A0801601 Mon Jan 2 05:06:04 2006
10: A0801701 Mon Jan 2 05:06:04 2006
11: A0801601 Mon Jan 2 04:18:19 2006
12: A0801701 Mon Jan 2 04:18:19 2006
13: A0801601 Mon Jan 2 03:57:47 2006
14: A0801701 Mon Jan 2 03:57:47 2006
15: A0003001 Mon Jan 2 02:47:41 2006
16: A0003001 Mon Jan 2 02:47:41 2006
17: A0801601 Mon Jan 2 02:40:52 2006
18: A0801701 Mon Jan 2 02:40:52 2006
19: A0801601 Mon Jan 2 02:27:24 2006
20: A0801701 Mon Jan 2 02:27:24 2006
21: A0802022 Sun Jan 1 22:53:05 2006
22: A0802022 Sun Jan 1 22:48:15 2006
23: A0801601 Sun Jan 1 22:22:55 2006
24: A0801701 Sun Jan 1 22:22:55 2006
25: A0801601 Sun Jan 1 19:23:30 2006
26: A0801701 Sun Jan 1 19:23:30 2006
27: A0801601 Sun Jan 1 18:27:49 2006
28: A0801701 Sun Jan 1 18:27:49 2006
29: A0801601 Sat Dec 31 18:44:41 2005
30: A0801701 Sat Dec 31 18:44:41 2005
31: A0801601 Sat Dec 31 18:34:08 2005
32: FFFFFFFF Sat Dec 31 18:34:08 2005
 
m3duard said:
Well, I'm not sure if it is broken. I tested ribbon cable itself, and every pin is ok. The only thing I know is the retaining flap on ps3 mb is missing, and instead of it i'm using a thick piece of plastic to seal it shut.
Click to expand...
Thats the correct way to fix it btw, the only detail that worths to be mentioned is the width of the plastic piece needs to be exactly the same than the width of the ribbon cable
You know... that ribbon cables have many copper "lines" and the piece of plastic needs to "push" all them
There is people that makes the mistake of using a plastic piece with an smaller width than the ribbon cable, and the result is some of the pins are correctly pushed (the pins at the center), but there are a few that are loose (at the extremes), this could cause weird errors

Another detail that worths to be mentioned is the plastic piece needs to be made... of plastic :D
Dont use cardboard or other vegetal materials, and NEVER glue the ribbon cable to the connector
Also, the thickness of the plastic piece needs to be calculated to "push" the pins correctly, this can be checked visually (with a magnifyer glass or microscope, etc...) to check if all the pins of the connector are moved when you insert the ribbon cable
If the thickness of the plastic piece you are using is not enought add another piece to duplicate his thickness
Or find another plastic with bigger thickness... probably you have tenths of plastic containers (from food products) or bottles at home to cut a plastic piece from them :)
 
Timbo9876 said:
So your plastic locking flap is broke and your using some plastic to wedge your ribbon cable into the slot. Now I have been there before and you ideally want the broken off plastic piece as it can be pushed back in which then locks in the ribbon cable.

If its not done correctly you could potentially damage the pins in the slot, so when you push the ribbon cable in it could potentially complete the short the broken pins have created.

With the top of the console off you should hold the ribbon cable in manually and try to boot the console. If this works then you know its the way you have held the ribbon cable in with the plastic your using.

If it doesn't work then you will need to try a new ribbon cable. You could test this by disconnecting the ribbon cable.from your drive and see if the console boots with the ridden cable connected to your motherboard but not the drive. If you still get a short its either a broken ribbon cable or broken pins on the MB. If the console boots then you may have an issue with your BD drive.
Click to expand...


Okay, I just did what you said. System turns on WITH ribbon cable attached to the main motherboard, and NO BD drive. So it's not it. I assume, it might be daughterboard itself, because it just wont swoop disk inside. It's just stuck and wont get out. Okie, I just have to wait untill my parcell arrives and swap the boards, but the only tricky part is the tiny connector with very thin cables.
 
sandungas said:
Thats the correct way to fix it btw, the only detail that worths to be mentioned is the width of the plastic piece needs to be exactly the same than the width of the ribbon cable
You know... that ribbon cables have many copper "lines" and the piece of plastic needs to "push" all them
There is people that makes the mistake of using a plastic piece with an smaller width than the ribbon cable, and the result is some of the pins are correctly pushed (the pins at the center), but there are a few that are loose (at the extremes), this could cause weird errors

Another detail that worths to be mentioned is the plastic piece needs to be made... of plastic :D
Dont use cardboard or other vegetal materials, and NEVER glue the ribbon cable to the connector
Also, the thickness of the plastic piece needs to be calculated to "push" the pins correctly, this can be checked visually (with a magnifyer glass or microscope, etc...) to check if all the pins of the connector are moved when you insert the ribbon cable
If the thickness of the plastic piece you are using is not enought add another piece to duplicate his thickness
Or find another plastic with bigger thickness... probably you have tenths of plastic containers (from food products) or bottles at home to cut a plastic piece from them :)
Click to expand...


I'm using a thick plastic which is pretty hard to swoop in, but it is nice and tight inside. I don't think that I somehow damaged the pins, and if so I'll have a replacement board soon. Board... Man, gotta check BD drive board itself!
 
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