PS3 Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting

[wyde84]

Hi guys, i hope you guys can help me little bit. i have CECHL00 VER-001 YLOD, so i did syscon and the error log is:

Spoiler: Errlog

>$ bringup
00000000
# [SSM] Bringup Start.
# [SSM] PS0 ok.
# [SSM] PS1 ok.
# [SSM] PS2 ok.
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ shutdown
00000000
# [PowSeq] Error:9103
# [SSM] PS3 ng.
# [SSM] Cond/Fatal received, msg=24D0.
# [SSM] Fataldown Start.
# [SSM] Fataldown ok.
# (PowerOff State) (Fatal)
NG E00000E0
# [SSM] Clearfatal Start.
# [SSM] Clearfatal ok.
# (PowerOff State)
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ powersw
00000000
# [SSM] Bringup Start.
OK 00000000
# [SSM] PS0 ok.
# [SSM] PS1 ok.
# [SSM] PS2 ok.
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ shutdown
00000000
# [PowSeq] Error:9103
# [SSM] PS3 ng.
# [SSM] Cond/Fatal received, msg=24D0.
# [SSM] Fataldown Start.
# [SSM] Fataldown ok.
# (PowerOff State) (Fatal)
# [SSM] Clearfatal Start.
# [SSM] Clearfatal ok.
# (PowerOff State)
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ errlog
00000000
# CODE CLOCK
# A0403034 0C6CC76D
# A0404422 0C6CC76D
# A0403034 0C6CC737
# A0404422 0C6CC736
# A0403034 0C637F7B
# A0404422 0C637F7B
# A0403034 0C637F4F
# A0404422 0C637F4E
# A0403034 0C637F39
# A0404422 0C637F39
# A0403034 0C637726
# A0404422 0C637725
# A0403034 0C63770D
# A0404422 0C63770D
# A0403034 0C6376F6
# A0404422 0C6376F5
# A0403034 0C6376E8
# A0404422 0C6376E8
# A0403034 0C61B00D
# A0404422 0C61B00D
# A0403034 0C61AFFD
# A0404422 0C61AFFD
# A0403034 0C61AFCE
# A0404422 0C61AFCE
# A0403034 0C61AFB3
# A0404422 0C61AFB3
# A0403034 0C61AF9A
# A0404422 0C61AF9A
# A0403034 0C61AE4E
# A0404422 0C61AE4D
# A0403034 0C5E0E7A

and this board apparently someone did capmod before, i attach some pict.

Spoiler: Board Pict

do you think where i should start ? from error log is it right YLOD from RSX/CELL ?

 

[RIP-Felix]

[POWERSEQ] Error : BitTraining RSX:RRAC:RX2:GLOBAL1:RX_STATUS
[SSM] state: 0104 -> 0304
[SSM] ssmCb_AfterBeOn2() called.
[SSM] PowSeq Fail : Detected !
[SSM] state: 0304 -> 0700
[POWSEQ] AV Backend Letup
[SSM] Shutdown mode : syspm_stat=00000000/00000000
[ERROR]: 0xa0404422
[ERROR]: 0xa0403034

My suspicion is a bumpgate issue according to the error code page, could also be a rotted trace (unlikely).
Any ideas?

I agree with your diagnosis. H model has defective 90nm RSX. 3034 is usually GPU in these models. The water damage sounds like a red herring.

 

[BadaBoomBadaBing]

That's a GLOD. Does bluetooth connect on the controller?

The most common cause of GLOD such as yours is the GPU. H models have the defective 90nm RSX, so that's most likely what's going on here. Unfortunate it was hiding behind failed tokins.

Thanks for your response. My controller battery is completely flat so I haven't tried it yet. But the PS3 got to this stage after the checksum fix and before I replaced any capacitors. Could it still be worth replacing all the remaining caps?

 

[RIP-Felix]

I have never heard of bad caps causing a GLOD, but if it help your acepance process, go to town.

Beware that the heat from installing caps is prone to changing the behavior of a GPU defect. You may get false positives that dont last long. So manage your expectations. Even if it seemingly works, it may not last.

GL

 

[BadaBoomBadaBing]

I have never heard of bad caps causing a GLOD, but if it help your acepance process, go to town.

Beware that the heat from installing caps is prone to changing the behavior of a GPU defect. You may get false positives that dont last long. So manage your expectations. Even if it seemingly works, it may not last.

GL

Sucks to hear that haha. Appreciate your honesty. I already ordered the caps so I guess I'll just give it a try anyway.

Thanks again for getting back to me and of course for all your contributions to the community.

 

[RIP-Felix]

Hi guys, i hope you guys can help me little bit. i have CECHL00 VER-001 YLOD, so i did syscon and the error log is:

Spoiler: Errlog

>$ bringup
00000000
# [SSM] Bringup Start.
# [SSM] PS0 ok.
# [SSM] PS1 ok.
# [SSM] PS2 ok.
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ shutdown
00000000
# [PowSeq] Error:9103
# [SSM] PS3 ng.
# [SSM] Cond/Fatal received, msg=24D0.
# [SSM] Fataldown Start.
# [SSM] Fataldown ok.
# (PowerOff State) (Fatal)
NG E00000E0
# [SSM] Clearfatal Start.
# [SSM] Clearfatal ok.
# (PowerOff State)
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ powersw
00000000
# [SSM] Bringup Start.
OK 00000000
# [SSM] PS0 ok.
# [SSM] PS1 ok.
# [SSM] PS2 ok.
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ shutdown
00000000
# [PowSeq] Error:9103
# [SSM] PS3 ng.
# [SSM] Cond/Fatal received, msg=24D0.
# [SSM] Fataldown Start.
# [SSM] Fataldown ok.
# (PowerOff State) (Fatal)
# [SSM] Clearfatal Start.
# [SSM] Clearfatal ok.
# (PowerOff State)
Press Ctrl+C to exit
>$ errlog
00000000
# CODE CLOCK
# A0403034 0C6CC76D
# A0404422 0C6CC76D
# A0403034 0C6CC737
# A0404422 0C6CC736
# A0403034 0C637F7B
# A0404422 0C637F7B
# A0403034 0C637F4F
# A0404422 0C637F4E
# A0403034 0C637F39
# A0404422 0C637F39
# A0403034 0C637726
# A0404422 0C637725
# A0403034 0C63770D
# A0404422 0C63770D
# A0403034 0C6376F6
# A0404422 0C6376F5
# A0403034 0C6376E8
# A0404422 0C6376E8
# A0403034 0C61B00D
# A0404422 0C61B00D
# A0403034 0C61AFFD
# A0404422 0C61AFFD
# A0403034 0C61AFCE
# A0404422 0C61AFCE
# A0403034 0C61AFB3
# A0404422 0C61AFB3
# A0403034 0C61AF9A
# A0404422 0C61AF9A
# A0403034 0C61AE4E
# A0404422 0C61AE4D
# A0403034 0C5E0E7A

and this board apparently someone did capmod before, i attach some pict.

Spoiler: Board Pict

do you think where i should start ? from error log is it right YLOD from RSX/CELL ?

Has the RSX been delidded?

I'm trying to figure out why you have an errorlog filled with errors consistant with a GPU failure, when that model has a reliable RSX. If it was delidded there could be a nicked trace, cracked die, or they may have stressed the BGA.

It's possable too for cpu, but way less likely.

 

[MAGOOSKEE]

I agree with your diagnosis. H model has defective 90nm RSX. 3034 is usually GPU in these models. The water damage sounds like a red herring.

Sure was a dead BGA on the RSX, heated it up with flux underneath, refreshing the solder, it boots now! But probably not for long...

 

[Woodsworth]

There is a service manual for the COK-002. In it you can find wiring shematic and labels for all the SMDs in the console. Please refer to it and tell use which components you knocked off. A picture would be helpful, but until you reach 10 posts on the forum you cannot upload them directly. You will have to use imgur or another picture hosting service and link.

2110 is a clock subsystem error usually stemming from an issue at or around 3.3v/5v Misc. It's very likely caused by whatever SMD you knocked off.

Thanks @RIP-Felix. From the motherboard diagram, it's COK002 side B and the values of the parts are C1158 and C1438. I can't find any other reference to them aside from there. Another test I've done was checking F6001, F6303 and F6301. The latter two checked out ok with a beep on the continuity test and low resistance readings. F6001 was into the kilo and M Ohms and didn't beep so that's blown. I'm trying to source a replacement fuse, are the specs I need 5A 32VDC and 3216 shell? I'm also unsure if it's a fast or slow fuse. If there's anymore specs or you can recommend some, please let me know. Also if you can let me know the values of the other two SMD's C1158 and C1438, I'll get replacements if necessary. Again, any help is appreciated. I checked both C6019 and C6020 and they seem to be faulty as well from the readings I got. I found a repair shops blog which mentioned these as power caps. Can you recommend some replacements for these two as well please? Your help is much appreciated!

 

[RIP-Felix]

Sure was a dead BGA on the RSX, heated it up with flux underneath, refreshing the solder, it boots now! But probably not for long...

Be careful about attribution bias. Just because you relowfed the BGA and the console boots currently, DOES NOT mean the BGA was at fault.

People have noted the same behavior from wrapping in a towel and heating the console with a hair dryer, or turning it upside down and repeadly powering on/off...point is lot's of asinine "tricks" led to misinformation about what "causes" the YLOD, because people made the mistake of attributing a cause to their effect.

Heating the board first changes parasitic inpeedance and capacitance of circuits sensitive to such changes and when a console is teetering on the edge, which it naturally does when you first encounter YLOD, almost any change can allow the console to boot. Eg, changing paste, opening and closing it back up without doing anything, coins under leaf springs, sticking you little finger up the cells butt hole and chating "work, work, work"...

Only time will tell. It needs thermal cycles.

I have personally tried this "heat trick" on a console that did not respond to the "pressure test." That's where you apply pressure to the GPU and try powering on to see if it boots or if artifacting changes behavior. Most of the time that does nothing on 90nm consoles, because the failure isn't with the BGA. It's the bumps, which are protected with underfil and require more pressure to deform and make a connection.

Anyway, on such a console I used a hot air nozzle set to 100C for exactly 1 minute pointed directly at the die on a delidded RSX. I concentrated the heat only on the die. Note that 100c isn't high enough to reflow anything and it's not as imprecise as heating the whole area. For example, the VRAM will get some heat transfer through the package, but be much cooler than the die, where heat is concentrated. And the tokins will not heat up much at all. 100c may not reflow the solder, but it is higher than the 70C Thermal Glassification temperature (Tg) of the GPU underfil (Namics 8439-1). So the underfill will soften and the die will shift a bit from the heat and stress. When the temperature cools below 70C it'll harden in a new position and if a bump was broken, it may make connection again, like 2 wires touching.

So both the pressure test and targeted heat test were attempting to isolate the bumps under the die and warp the Motherboard as little as possable, minimizing the possability a BGA defect could explain the results. Myself and several others in my discord performed this same test procedure to several 90nm RSX models with 3034 and that were pressure test negative. We found that it worked in most cases. The console booted 1st try afterwards. Then we loaded up TLOU in the mirror, a consistant setup that stresses the console evenly across all runs. We stayed there for 30mins to fully heat soak. Then shut the console down for 1 hour to fully cool. That's 1 full thermal cycle. It took mine 2 thermal cycles for the console to die. I confirmed with syscon bittraining error that it was the exact same error. Not a new bittraining error. This confirms that the original bump that broke, was the same bump that disconnected again. However, my buddy @Nascar1243's console survived around 25 thermal cycles. It was taking so long that were were left scratching our heads and wondering if physics was broken. So I had him disable webman mod which was maintaining 68C. It went back to syscon fan control. And right when the console got over 70C (and the underfill expanded with a CTE stress spike, just before softening) boom the YLOD was back.

What we showed here, yet again, is that a "heat test" can allow the console to boot in a precarious condition, long enough for people to assume whatever they did "fixed" it. And that is what led to so much misinformatuon about what causes the YLOD. And that sometimes a console in this condition can last long enough for you to think it's fixed even if you did stress testing. Most people will do a few hours in a stressful game. Maybe over a couple of days even, and call it good. But in @Nascar1243's case that console was definately still unrepaired, but could have fooled anyone! Most reasonable people would assume it was fixed. It's not that they were being unreasonable. The nature of this type of fault laid an attribution trap.

Such results could be obtained from replacing tokins, for example. And that was a common "false positive", contributing to the NEC/Tokin hysteria of 2020.

 

[wyde84]

Has the RSX been delidded?

I'm trying to figure out why you have an errorlog filled with errors consistant with a GPU failure, when that model has a reliable RSX. If it was delidded there could be a nicked trace, cracked die, or they may have stressed the BGA.

It's possable too for cpu, but way less likely.

as far i can see RSX no sign has been delidded, IHS is still solid. is it possible faulty from tantalum that previous mod (RSX side)? is it advisable to replace NEC Tokin from CELL side that opened plastic lid (see picture CELL side)?

 

[RIP-Felix]

Thanks @RIP-Felix. From the motherboard diagram, it's COK002 side B and the values of the parts are C1158 and C1438. I can't find any other reference to them aside from there. Another test I've done was checking F6001, F6303 and F6301. The latter two checked out ok with a beep on the continuity test and low resistance readings. F6001 was into the kilo and M Ohms and didn't beep so that's blown. I'm trying to source a replacement fuse, are the specs I need 5A 32VDC and 3216 shell? I'm also unsure if it's a fast or slow fuse. If there's anymore specs or you can recommend some, please let me know. Also if you can let me know the values of the other two SMD's C1158 and C1438, I'll get replacements if necessary. Again, any help is appreciated. I checked both C6019 and C6020 and they seem to be faulty as well from the readings I got. I found a repair shops blog which mentioned these as power caps. Can you recommend some replacements for these two as well please? Your help is much appreciated!

I reccomend you do what I would have to do to answer your question. Have a look at the circuit diagram in the service manual. It lists the parts, their value and case size. These fuses (BH 5A) should be adequate, but I usually just harvest from a donor board. Which is why I dont have these values memorized. I just grab the same part from a donor and go.

 

[Woodsworth]

I reccomend you do what I would have to do to answer your question. Have a look at the circuit diagram in the service manual. It lists the parts, their value and case size. These fuses (BH 5A) should be adequate, but I usually just harvest from a donor board. Which is why I dont have these values memorized. I just grab the same part from a donor and go.

Thanks, the link seems to be bust though. Would something like this fuse work? https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp-pro/mp001602/smd-fuse/dp/3285140 it matches the rest of the spec. Or like this fuse: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Bourns/SF-1206SP500M-2?qs=fAHHVMwC%2BbjCS5Y4sJXDHA== ? I'll see if I can track the parts I knocked off in the diagrams. C6020 and C6019 I'm unsure of though. Thanks for your recommendations so far. It may be that I find a donor board. Between the models, what's the compatibility like with components used?

 

[RIP-Felix]

Thanks, the link seems to be bust though.

fixed

Would something like this fuse work?

I think a slow blow fuse makes more sense in this case as transient current draws when you 1st switch on the power can exceed the current limit for a short time. Like charging bulk filtering capas. A fast blow may trigger then. Whereas a slow blow requires a sustained load for longer than a transient current spike will last. Like a short. Be sure to locate and eliminate the short, or the new fuse will just blow again.

For donors, you pretty much need the same model rev MB as there were pretty radical redesigns between models. But it depends on the parts needed. Capacitors of various values are used on many boards and can be salvaged, if you know the value it's supposed to be.

 

[Woodsworth]

fixedI think a slow blow fuse makes more sense in this case as transient current draws when you 1st switch on the power can exceed the current limit for a short time. Like charging bulk filtering capas. A fast blow may trigger then. Whereas a slow blow requires a sustained load for longer than a transient current spike will last. Like a short. Be sure to locate and eliminate the short, or the new fuse will just blow again.

For donors, you pretty much need the same model rev MB as there were pretty radical redesigns between models. But it depends on the parts needed. Capacitors of various values are used on many boards and can be salvaged, if you know the value it's supposed to be.

Thanks a lot. That's really helpful. I'll get the fuses now I know what to look for. That explanation about the slow blow fuse is really helpful. I'll see if I can find another cheap ps3 of the same model for the other parts I need as I think that will be a safer bet. Appreciate your help on this. Your videos gave me the motivation to try this and so far I've learnt a lot.

 

[MAGOOSKEE]

Be careful about attribution bias. Just because you relowfed the BGA and the console boots currently, DOES NOT mean the BGA was at fault.

People have noted the same behavior from wrapping in a towel and heating the console with a hair dryer, or turning it upside down and repeadly powering on/off...point is lot's of asinine "tricks" led to misinformation about what "causes" the YLOD, because people made the mistake of attributing a cause to their effect.

Heating the board first changes parasitic inpeedance and capacitance of circuits sensitive to such changes and when a console is teetering on the edge, which it naturally does when you first encounter YLOD, almost any change can allow the console to boot. Eg, changing paste, opening and closing it back up without doing anything, coins under leaf springs, sticking you little finger up the cells butt hole and chating "work, work, work"...

Only time will tell. It needs thermal cycles.

I have personally tried this "heat trick" on a console that did not respond to the "pressure test." That's where you apply pressure to the GPU and try powering on to see if it boots or if artifacting changes behavior. Most of the time that does nothing on 90nm consoles, because the failure isn't with the BGA. It's the bumps, which are protected with underfil and require more pressure to deform and make a connection.

Anyway, on such a console I used a hot air nozzle set to 100C for exactly 1 minute pointed directly at the die on a delidded RSX. I concentrated the heat only on the die. Note that 100c isn't high enough to reflow anything and it's not as imprecise as heating the whole area. For example, the VRAM will get some heat transfer through the package, but be much cooler than the die, where heat is concentrated. And the tokins will not heat up much at all. 100c may not reflow the solder, but it is higher than the 70C Thermal Glassification temperature (Tg) of the GPU underfil (Namics 8439-1). So the underfill will soften and the die will shift a bit from the heat and stress. When the temperature cools below 70C it'll harden in a new position and if a bump was broken, it may make connection again, like 2 wires touching.

So both the pressure test and targeted heat test were attempting to isolate the bumps under the die and warp the Motherboard as little as possable, minimizing the possability a BGA defect could explain the results. Myself and several others in my discord performed this same test procedure to several 90nm RSX models with 3034 and that were pressure test negative. We found that it worked in most cases. The console booted 1st try afterwards. Then we loaded up TLOU in the mirror, a consistant setup that stresses the console evenly across all runs. We stayed there for 30mins to fully heat soak. Then shut the console down for 1 hour to fully cool. That's 1 full thermal cycle. It took mine 2 thermal cycles for the console to die. I confirmed with syscon bittraining error that it was the exact same error. Not a new bittraining error. This confirms that the original bump that broke, was the same bump that disconnected again. However, my buddy @Nascar1243's console survived around 25 thermal cycles. It was taking so long that were were left scratching our heads and wondering if physics was broken. So I had him disable webman mod which was maintaining 68C. It went back to syscon fan control. And right when the console got over 70C (and the underfill expanded with a CTE stress spike, just before softening) boom the YLOD was back.

What we showed here, yet again, is that a "heat test" can allow the console to boot in a precarious condition, long enough for people to assume whatever they did "fixed" it. And that is what led to so much misinformatuon about what causes the YLOD. And that sometimes a console in this condition can last long enough for you to think it's fixed even if you did stress testing. Most people will do a few hours in a stressful game. Maybe over a couple of days even, and call it good. But in @Nascar1243's case that console was definately still unrepaired, but could have fooled anyone! Most reasonable people would assume it was fixed. It's not that they were being unreasonable. The nature of this type of fault laid an attribution trap.

Such results could be obtained from replacing tokins, for example. And that was a common "false positive", contributing to the NEC/Tokin hysteria of 2020.

You really couldn't be any more precise with that response! I'm interested to see how many cycles it will take! I'll make sure to disable the differing fan curve too, cause that obviously changed results. I can definitely agree with the chance that it is the The underfill. To TLOU it is!

 

[MAGOOSKEE]

Actually, I just checked my collection. No TLOU! Is GT5 sufficient? or just any load in general?

 

[RIP-Felix]

GOW Ascension works well. No loading. The press start scene is fairly taxing and a consistant setup.

 

[Melio]

Hello everyone, am not really good in english (am french) so i'll try my best.

My PS3 slim started displaying the infamous YLOD when i try to turn it off. Never have that before and it take me usually a couple of minute pressing the power button multiple times before the console turn on. Here the errlog

Errors (32)

Error 0: OxA0111004 Time: Tue, 07 Feb 2136 06:28:15 GMT
Error 1: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:58 GMT
Error 2: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:50 GMT
Error 3: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:47 GMT
Error 4: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:42 GMT
Error 5: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:01 GMT
Error 6: OxA0403034 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:29:55 GMT
Error 7: OxA0404001 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:29:55 GMT
Error 8: OxA0321004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:29:54 GMT
Error 9: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:28 GMT
Error 10: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:22 GMT
Error 11: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:15 GMT
Error 12: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:12 GMT
Error 13: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:08 GMT
Error 14: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:03 GMT
Error 15: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:57 GMT
Error 16: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:53 GMT
Error 17: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:50 GMT
Error 18: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:45 GMT
Error 19: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:42 GMT
Error 20: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:39 GMT
Error 21: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:35 GMT
Error 21: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:35 GMT
Error 22: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:32 GMT
Error 23: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:16 GMT
Error 24: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:18 GMT
Error 25: OxA0093003 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:16 GMT
Error 26: OxA0061004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:16 GMT
Error 27: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:12 GMT
Error28: OxA0231004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:10 GMT
Error 29: OxA0231004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:06 GMT
Error 30: OxA0111004 Time: Tue, 07 Feb 2136 06:28:15 GMT
Error 31: OxFFFFFFFF Time: Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 GMT

 

[MAGOOSKEE]

GOW Ascension works well. No loading. The press start scene is fairly taxing and a consistant setup.

I've done a few thermal cycles now. Still going, are we aiming for the high 70s?

 

[RIP-Felix]

Hello everyone, am not really good in english (am french) so i'll try my best.

My PS3 slim started displaying the infamous YLOD when i try to turn it off. Never have that before and it take me usually a couple of minute pressing the power button multiple times before the console turn on. Here the errlog

Errors (32)

Error 0: OxA0111004 Time: Tue, 07 Feb 2136 06:28:15 GMT
Error 1: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:58 GMT
Error 2: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:50 GMT
Error 3: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:47 GMT
Error 4: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:42 GMT
Error 5: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:30:01 GMT
Error 6: OxA0403034 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:29:55 GMT
Error 7: OxA0404001 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:29:55 GMT
Error 8: OxA0321004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 04:29:54 GMT
Error 9: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:28 GMT
Error 10: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:22 GMT
Error 11: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:15 GMT
Error 12: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:12 GMT
Error 13: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:08 GMT
Error 14: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:55:03 GMT
Error 15: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:57 GMT
Error 16: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:53 GMT
Error 17: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:50 GMT
Error 18: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:45 GMT
Error 19: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:42 GMT
Error 20: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:39 GMT
Error 21: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:35 GMT
Error 21: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:35 GMT
Error 22: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:32 GMT
Error 23: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 02:54:16 GMT
Error 24: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:18 GMT
Error 25: OxA0093003 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:16 GMT
Error 26: OxA0061004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:16 GMT
Error 27: OxA0111004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:12 GMT
Error28: OxA0231004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:10 GMT
Error 29: OxA0231004 Time: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 01:08:06 GMT
Error 30: OxA0111004 Time: Tue, 07 Feb 2136 06:28:15 GMT
Error 31: OxFFFFFFFF Time: Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 GMT

Try another power supply. What model is it? And can you provide any more details about the condition of the console. Like dusty, bugs, were fans loud, did you ever observe any artifacting, YLOD in games, has it been previously repaired, is it sealed with warranty sticker...things like that build a picture that can hint at what may be going on.

1004 is an AC/DC power failure usually from flipping the power rocker off at the back when testing the console or when forcing it off after it becomes unresponsive. In your case it appears to be occuring on it's own when attempting to power on, which could very well be a bad power supply. So if you have one on hand, try it. If not, they're not too expensive to replace. And easily done for pretty much anyone. No soldering required.

If that's isn't it however, the chances this is something simple that won't require soldering is remote. Like maybe a ribbon cable is pinched. But that's unlikeky. Be sure to try another outlet and power cord. Just to rule that out.