PS3 Help with a semi-ylod

U

Umi

Forum Noob
Hi guys, I recently bought a second hand PS3 slim (20XX model), and I'm starting to experience the ylod issue, but in a weird way because the console hasn't died yet, and I've not been able to find someone with this kind of problem.
First, it started appearing when powering it on. The console blinks yellow for a brief moment, beeps three times and starts blinking red. Then, if I try to power it on again, it boots up normally.
After that, It showed up again while playing Persona 5, entering the Shibuya station makes the ylod appear. And now It's appearing when trying to play God of War 1, at the starting cinematic.
The weird thing is, as I said, the console hasn't died, It happens 1 time on boot always, and yesterday I was playing Persona for over 4 hours perfectly fine, until I reached Shibuya station and PUF. I've been keeping an eye on temperatures and they are alright, 60° always, and the fans at 30-40%.
Anyone knows what could be happening? Here is a video I did showing this with God of War (sorry for the quality and the noises behind):
 
At the beginning, what's your CFW? Install the latest, do the disk format, config, etc. After that test a some games. If the error happens repeatedly, the console dies. Sell or reballing. I know the symptoms after time will die.
 
try doing the thermal paste, it could be very old paste and not making good contact otherwise if that doesn't work do a reflow, all you would need is a heat gun
 
a reflow might work, but I'd suggest a reballing. the main difference is that the solder points are redone with a reball. you could have misaligned solder points. a reflow would just use the old ones while a reball, though time intensive, would involve creating new ones. afaik, a reball has to be done by hand, so it's typically more expensive than a reflow, if you choose to have someone else do it for you.
 
DeViL303 said:
I agree, This does not sound like a normal YLOD (bad solder points), Here the temps are low and normally a YLOD would not be consistent on every boot like that.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking too that It could be the power supply, but then, It always shuts down at certain points of certain games, and I don't know what the power supply has to do with the games, is weird.
I did a full internal hdd format yesterday, thinking it could be the hdd. 7 hours long, didn't shutdown during the process. Then I loaded god of war again and PUF, restart again at the cutscene, strange af. I could try the reflow it first and see what happens.
 
Umi said:
I've been thinking too that It could be the power supply, but then, It always shuts down at certain points of certain games, and I don't know what the power supply has to do with the games, is weird.
Click to expand...
The workload in CELL/RSX ;)
Inside a game... if there is an scene with lof of graphic and processor load then CELL/RSX increases its voltage requirements and the power supply says good bye
There was a thread in the forum some weeks ago with this same problem exactly, it was repaired by replacing the power supply

Im not sure if your problem is this, but it looks like
 
I agree with sandungas.
In any case, don't use a heatgun on the mobo without being sure about the problem.
It does sound more like a psu issue than pure ylod.
 
It's possible the HDD is starting to fail also.

Definitely put the heat gun away and start with the easy stuff.

First try a different HDD.
Then try a different PSU if you have one around. (I know most don't. But I think everyone has an extra. since I have hundreds in my closet. LOL.) If you don't have one to try, you could try adjusting the POTs on the PSU. I know that model should have them, if you unscrew and pop the plastic cover off the PSU.

If neither of those solve the problem, it is possible that either Syscon, Southbridge, or CPU (or maybe GPU) needs a professional reball (no heat gun or towel trick!)
 
sandungas said:
The workload in CELL/RSX ;)
Inside a game... if there is an scene with lof of graphic and processor load then CELL/RSX increases its voltage requirements and the power supply says good bye
There was a thread in the forum some weeks ago with this same problem exactly, it was repaired by replacing the power supply

Im not sure if your problem is this, but it looks like
Click to expand...
Ohhh, that makes sense! Probably that's why It doesn't explode playing Rogue Legacy LOL

playerkp420 said:
It's possible the HDD is starting to fail also.

Definitely put the heat gun away and start with the easy stuff.

First try a different HDD.
Then try a different PSU if you have one around. (I know most don't. But I think everyone has an extra. since I have hundreds in my closet. LOL.) If you don't have one to try, you could try adjusting the POTs on the PSU. I know that model should have them, if you unscrew and pop the plastic cover off the PSU.

If neither of those solve the problem, it is possible that either Syscon, Southbridge, or CPU (or maybe GPU) needs a professional reball (no heat gun or towel trick!)
Click to expand...
So, I've tried to load the backup from an external hdd, and the system shutsdown like always. Should I replace the internal hdd with another one just to be copmletely sure tho? And yeah, I don't have any PSU around LOL, so I'll try first to adjust those POTs, if it still fails, then I'll try to buy a new PSU
 
Umi said:
Ohhh, that makes sense! Probably that's why It doesn't explode playing Rogue Legacy LOL


So, I've tried to load the backup from an external hdd, and the system shutsdown like always. Should I replace the internal hdd with another one just to be copmletely sure tho? And yeah, I don't have any PSU around LOL, so I'll try first to adjust those POTs, if it still fails, then I'll try to buy a new PSU
Click to expand...
I would definitely try another HDD first. Can be any 2.5" laptop HDD. So if u have one of those around, it would be easy to try. If the only one u have is being used, just backup the data to your external, and stick in your ps3, install CFW, etc..

There should be a good guide on adjusting the potonimer in the PSU. I remember that you only need turn it a tiny bit at a time. I think you only turn the one on the right also? Can't remember would need Google to refresh that one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
There was tutorials to connect an ATX power supply from an standard PC to the PS3
You could do this as a temporal test
But i dont know any link to a tutorial, and there are different PS3 power supply connectors with different pinouts
 
playerkp420 said:
I would definitely try another HDD first. Can be any 2.5" laptop HDD. So if u have one of those around, it would be easy to try. If the only one u have is being used, just backup the data to your external, and stick in your ps3, install CFW, etc..

There should be a good guide on adjusting the potonimer in the PSU. I remember that you only need turn it a tiny bit at a time. I think you only turn the one on the right also? Can't remember would need Google to refresh that one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Well, first of all, I replaced the internal hdd with another one that I was using in a laptop, and the problem persisted (Now I'm testing this with Far Cry 3 Blood Dragon, the consoles resets as soon as the gameplay starts). So I proceded to open the power supply and play around with those POTs, and yeah maybe they are the problem. Depending on how I turn them, the game restarts or at the first load screen, or at the main menu... The problem is, I do not have a proper multimeter at hand to be 100% sure. I've been thinking that maybe I should replace the thermal paste too?
 
Umi said:
Well, first of all, I replaced the internal hdd with another one that I was using in a laptop, and the problem persisted (Now I'm testing this with Far Cry 3 Blood Dragon, the consoles resets as soon as the gameplay starts). So I proceded to open the power supply and play around with those POTs, and yeah maybe they are the problem. Depending on how I turn them, the game restarts or at the first load screen, or at the main menu... The problem is, I do not have a proper multimeter at hand to be 100% sure. I've been thinking that maybe I should replace the thermal paste too?
Click to expand...
Forget the thermal paste for now.
Your issue seems definitely psu related so focus on that
You need a multimeter to check output.
And a spare psu if the current one is dead.
 
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