PS3 Old PS3 bought, what are the recommended mods?

[Hemmek]

Hi just bought an old 60gb backwards compabitle console.
CECHC04. It seems to be in good working order, have not even opened the case as of yet.
Buying a new harddrive, considering going the SDD route.

What else should i do to ensure a stable console ?
(going to Jailbreak it as soon as the new site is up and running)

Best regards H

 

[ElGris]

You can install a CFW or HEN from here, is a mirror: https://ps3xploit.me/

I recommend you to see what the temperatures are, and then replace the thermal paste, use MX4 or Gelid Extreme, or something better. Don't use liquid metal.

Apart of that, the console should be good running at 35%, keep temps under 68º and that's all. Keep in mind that sooner or later you will need to delid the CELL IHS, it's a must. Apart of that, put the fan on 40% or above on manual when playing PS2 games.

 

[Timbo9876]

Liquid metal is fine to use but only on the die of the CPU and GPU. If your simply replacing the paste on the heat spreaders then MX4 is a sound and popular choice. Custom firmware is unavailable by the offical route, the mirror site xploitme does not have the option to install custom firmware. However you can install HEN (homebrew enabler), this is useful as you can use webman and multiman to install games you own to the HD and also control your fan to help keep the console cool. I would say this is essential to help the console run better and live longer

 

[Berion]

Liquid metal can escape making serious shortcuts, also evaporate in time like standard paste, and interact chemically with aluminium (?) radiator. I don't get it from what this fashion came from but this is dangerous shit and should be used only there where extreme temperatures must be quickly disperse. PS3 is not that case so avoid it.

Using HEN, on CFW compatible console is like using bicycle on highway. :P

 

[Timbo9876]

The resistors in the surrounding area to the die need to be protected with clear coat. To ensure the liquid metal dont escape heat tape is used to stop it spilling out.

If you do your research and know what your doing its a great way to help preserve the life of the console. So from experience and having applied LM correctly on many consoles I can say if APPLIED CORRECTLY, it's the best thermal compound you can place on the PS3's CPU and GPU die. Please note, the heat spreaders are PLATED COPPER not aluminium

 

[Yugonibblit]

The resistors in the surrounding area to the die need to be protected with clear coat. To ensure the liquid metal dont escape heat tape is used to stop it spilling out.

If you do your research and know what your doing its a great way to help preserve the life of the console. So from experience and having applied LM correctly on many consoles I can say if APPLIED CORRECTLY, it's the best thermal compound you can place on the PS3's CPU and GPU die. Please note, the heat spreaders are PLATED COPPER not aluminium

In my honest opinion liquid metal is a little bit of an Overkill normal thermal paste has worked fine for me for many years and of course everyone is entitled to do what they want with their console I don't like the etching effect it has on the Electoral plated copper you can also get a used console for the price of the liquid metal. But I also like the enthusiasm to be extreme

 

[Jayglass]

Bgtoolset is unavailable for now.

 

[Hemmek]

Thanks for the help
Whats the safest way to do the delid?
Dont matter much to me if its slow going but safe.

 

[Hemmek]

Guess i botched the delid, now got the Ylod .....
Not much more to be done but look for a new console and hope for the best?

 

[Yugonibblit]

Guess i botched the delid, now got the Ylod .....
Not much more to be done but look for a new console and hope for the best?

Sorry to hear about botched delid, there are lots of posts describing a way to delid gpu and cpu. I use a plain razor blade for years just have to go slow and be super careful not to cut yourself. And of course not to cut the cpu. Rsx is a little easier but still have to be careful. I have botched a couple of motherboards. But practice makes perfect. Better luck on your next console well worth it if you can get er done.

 

[Timbo9876]

I have done around 100 de-lids and I have learnt a lot along the way. Because I record all my de-lids I am able to look back on a delid that my cause the console some issues, here is what I have found so far.

(1) You can actually cause a BGA issue by the way you open the console. I noticed by analysing my recordings that evertime I found it difficult to separate the MB from the heatsink, the force required to separate them can actually pull at the CPU and GPU substrate and this can in turn case a multitude of errors. The solution I have found is to warm up the console before taking it apart, the best way to do this is to turn it on for about 20 minutes, when the CPU reaches 75 degrees turn it off and take the console apart. Also its best to pull at the fan/heatsink away from the MB, if you pull the MB away from the fan/heatsink its more likey to pull at the substrate.

(2) dont heat up the CPU before de-lid, i have recently found out that applying heat and the adding the required force needed to cut into the sealant can cause BGA issues. So even if the de-lid looks successful with no scratches, the heat combined with the force is enough to cause issues with the CPU substrate.

(3) Don't pull at the CPU when taking off the heat spreader, the sealant must be fully cut, any force pulling at the substance may be enough to cause BGA issues.

(4) And finally, and this maybe controversial, once the de-lid has been performed I would rest the MB on a hot plate and slowly heat the entire board to 160 degrees over a 15 minute period. Then let it cool down naturally untill the MB is cold. This helps to straighten the MB and can prevent BGA issues which may already may be on the horizon. In otherwords the console may already be on its way out and the substrate is hanging on by the skin of its teeth. This procedure can prevent the pending BGA issue, and as we all know, prevention is better than the cure.

 

[Yugonibblit]

I have done around 100 de-lids and I have learnt a lot along the way. Because I record all my de-lids I am able to look back on a delid that my cause the console some issues, here is what I have found so far.

(1) You can actually cause a BGA issue by the way you open the console. I noticed by analysing my recordings that evertime I found it difficult to separate the MB from the heatsink, the force required to separate them can actually pull at the CPU and GPU substrate and this can in turn case a multitude of errors. The solution I have found is to warm up the console before taking it apart, the best way to do this is to turn it on for about 20 minutes, when the CPU reaches 75 degrees turn it off and take the console apart. Also its best to pull at the fan/heatsink away from the MB, if you pull the MB away from the fan/heatsink its more likey to pull at the substrate.

(2) dont heat up the CPU before de-lid, i have recently found out that applying heat and the adding the required force needed to cut into the sealant can cause BGA issues. So even if the de-lid looks successful with no scratches, the heat combined with the force is enough to cause issues with the CPU substrate.

(3) Don't pull at the CPU when taking off the heat spreader, the sealant must be fully cut, any force pulling at the substance may be enough to cause BGA issues.

(4) And finally, and this maybe controversial, once the de-lid has been performed I would rest the MB on a hot plate and slowly heat the entire board to 160 degrees over a 15 minute period. Then let it cool down naturally untill the MB is cold. This helps to straighten the MB and can prevent BGA issues which may already may be on the horizon. In otherwords the console may already be on its way out and the substrate is hanging on by the skin of its teeth. This procedure can prevent the pending BGA issue, and as we all know, prevention is better than the cure.

I was wondering if we could eliminate the ihs and just make contact on the heatsink? Has this been done ? I have yet to try this but always thought of trying to modify heatsink to try and accomplish this idea. Seems to me it would have even better cooling. PC mother boards are designed this way.. not all but some have only aluminum heatsink in place?. Of course there is water cooling but at a costly price.

 

[GuilloteTesla]

I was wondering if we could eliminate the ihs and just make contact on the heatsink? Has this been done ? I have yet to try this but always thought of trying to modify heatsink to try and accomplish this idea. Seems to me it would have even better cooling. PC mother boards are designed this way.. not all but some have only aluminum heatsink in place?. Of course there is water cooling but at a costly price.

Having the heatsink placed directly over the die would improve the heat transfer. The problem is with the console's case design as there will be a gap between the die and the heatsink (where the IHS is suppose to be) and can not be filled unless you force the heatsink down (like the rubber trick) or try to use something to "tied" the heatsink to the motherboard closer.

There is also another issue: the motherboard plate. In the picture I've marked the sunk area where the heatsink rests and comes into contact with the IHS. But if there is no IHS, the heatsink will be unable to "touch" the die unless some modifications are made to the steel plate (in other words, cut the wholes even more so the heatsink can slide through).

 

[Yugonibblit]

Having the heatsink placed directly over the die would improve the heat transfer. The problem is with the console's case design as there will be a gap between the die and the heatsink (where the IHS is suppose to be) and can not be filled unless you force the heatsink down (like the rubber trick) or try to use something to "tied" the heatsink to the motherboard closer.

There is also another issue: the motherboard plate. In the picture I've marked the sunk area where the heatsink rests and comes into contact with the IHS. But if there is no IHS, the heatsink will be unable to "touch" the die unless some modifications are made to the steel plate (in other words, cut the wholes even more so the heatsink can slide through).

View attachment 38549

Yes my thoughts exactly. I just might try this, I have the tools to accomplish this maybe. I will maybe try this next week when I have some free time..
Also less thermal paste can be used or maybe even a thermal pad?
Also mounting the heatsink would have to be precise, as to not warp or damage the die on said CPU. RSX would be a bit easier. CPU could maybe be done with a series of thermal pads to ad to the leveling of said heatsink and die.

 

[Timbo9876]

Umm, I don't think thermal pads would transfer the heat efficiently enough. Obviously the Xbox 360 did have the die making contact with the heatsink, unfortunately this did not stop board warping or BGA issues. The good thing about it was it was easier to clean and repaste and you didn't have the issues associated with the de-lidding process.

 

[Spawn]

My recommendation would be:

1. Clean it up and replace the thermal paste with MX-4.
2. Upgrade the HDD.
3. Install Evilnat 4.88 CFW.
4. Install WebmanMod.
5. Install Multiman
6. Use dynamic fan control (i.e syscon) if possible.
7. Keep the console in an open space (not insade a cabinet etc.).

There are plentiful of homebrew for the PS3. I only suggest the 2 as they are imho the must have.
As for any other, it's entirely up to you.

 

[Nator]

....Don't use liquid metal....

Why not?

 

[GuilloteTesla]

Why not?

Because some alloys are corrosive to the IHS and can degrade the surfaces.

 

[Nator]

Because some alloys are corrosive to the IHS and can degrade the surfaces.

But is it a known thing? because i see that many people put liquid metal. As far as i'm concerned, the heatsink should be made of steel and shouldn't react, while the IHS should be plated, but if you take the plating off then the liquid metal will react.
To avoid this i was thinking after having done the delid, to put the heat sink directly in contact with the die and use liquid metal, do you think this is a good idea?

 

[nikeymikey]

Is this de-lidding actually needed? Just got my old CECHP03 out of storage a few days ago but now I'm wondering if I'm not better off just putting it back in the box and emulating the few games that I wanna play that aren't available on any other console.
A de-lid sounds like a lot of work with a lot of risk as well.
I have opened the console up and cleaned out as much dust as I could and temps were hovering in the high 60s to low 70s after playing some Modnation Racers for an hour last night.
If using the thing is gonna kill it then it's going away again.