PS2 Original PS2 won't play burned Audio CDs!

Frostbites

Forum Noob
I recently bought a new original PS2 to replace my broken PS2 Slim and I wanted to play some Audio CDs that I burned using iTunes on my computer. When I inserted the disk, the PS2 would make sounds that sort of sounded like a zipper being opened, and other loud noises when it tried to read the disk. Once I got a RSoD, but most times it just says "Disk read error." The PS2 plays PS2 games flawlessly, so it probably is not the disk drive. I even inserted an official RHCP audio CD and it recognized it with not weird noises or any other problems! I am using Windows 11, if that helps.
And no, I did not drag & drop MP3s onto the CD, I burned it as an Audio CD in iTunes.
 
Open disc/image in IsoBuster and show us screenshot. Maybe it is not CDDA at all. ;)
Could be the quality of the write media, try burning at the lowest speed your writer will allow.
Never burn at lowest possible speed... It results in worst possible quality burn, like often the fastest one. You repeating malicious myth from early time when CD burners have not buffer overrun protection...

For testing CD, you can use eg. Nero CDVD Speed and check there: Jitter level, C1 and C2 thresholds.
 
Open disc/image in IsoBuster and show us screenshot. Maybe it is not CDDA at all. ;)

Never burn at lowest possible speed... It results in worst possible quality burn, like often the fastest one. You repeating malicious myth from early time when CD burners have not buffer overrun protection...

For testing CD, you can use eg. Nero CDVD Speed and check there: Jitter level, C1 and C2 thresholds.

No it's the quality of the media, the lower burn speed concentrates the burn so the oils have a different heatstroke warping, I remember back in the days with really cheap crap, discs would rot too near the edges after a few months.

I've had same flying jet plane reading happen on other cdplayers myself not just ps1 or ps2, it'll eventually show up as 99 tracks on the player.
You even get good & bad batches from the same plants.
 
I'm sorry, but that's nonsense. And you can test disc burn quality by himself, I told you how in above post.

What is true is that burn quality also depend of burner and media quality, but speed here (combined with disc index and ODDW fw strategy set for specific disc) is just another factor.
 
I'm sorry, but that's nonsense. And you can test disc burn quality by himself, I told you how in above post.

What is true is that burn quality also depend of burner and media quality, but speed here (combined with disc index and ODDW fw strategy set for specific disc) is just another factor.


Ritek & CMC Magnetics make good frisbees, they should of gone into the angle grinding business instead.
 
Ritek & CMC Magnetics make good frisbees, they should of gone into the angle grinding business instead.
Awkwardly enough, CMC bought out Taiyo Yuden amongst others, making the optical media industry pretty lackluster nowadays in terms of variety of options
 
No it's the quality of the media, the lower burn speed concentrates the burn so the oils have a different heatstroke warping, I remember back in the days with really cheap crap, discs would rot too near the edges after a few months.
Overexposing the dye won't ever result in "better" burned discs.
 
Overexposing the dye won't ever result in "better" burned discs.

Maybe not, but I found out the hard way making tons of coasters burning above 4x & 8x on cheap shit. Gamecube I found to be the most picky about what it'd read, the IDE-EXI memory card adaptor worked great until I got my current Wii :-) , discs are just a hassle.
 
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Did you ever use Laserpowercalibration and/or similar?

I'm sorry, but we are not in the 90s nor pre-2003! Your overgeneralized statement is just wrong.

It depends on the writer, the firmware, the media and sometimes batch, the write-mode, the write-speed, the write-strategy, if Laserpowercalibration was used or not and so on!
 
funny, I just joined this forum for ps3 but i'm sure i've got a solution to this i used to use as a kid, if you hold the little catch thing down on the ps2 and keep the lid open and spin the disc as you turn on the ps2 i think it'll run, i could be thinking of something else as we're talking over 20 years ago, but i'm sure that trick worked for copied CD's GL
 
It will not working, for several reasons like eg. disc verification based on many things which cannot be burned even on DVD-R(A), and i.e because opening lid/tray is also a signal for disc controller to verify disc again when you close it. You misleading that with swap disc tricks using loader pressed on CD/DVD-ROM which have cloned some sectors from Crazy Taxi and a voodoo needs of blocking lid sensors/ejecting tray by force.
 
It will not working, for several reasons like eg. disc verification based on many things which cannot be burned even on DVD-R(A), and i.e because opening lid/tray is also a signal for disc controller to verify disc again when you close it. You misleading that with swap disc tricks using loader pressed on CD/DVD-ROM which have cloned some sectors from Crazy Taxi and a voodoo needs of blocking lid sensors/ejecting tray by force.
Respectfully mate I'm not misleading anyone, I didn't say anything about a disc swap trick and I didn't say anything about closing the lid. Most audio CDs including retail CDs, especially in the 90s didn't have DRM... you're talking rubbish. It's a simple trick that would take 30 seconds to test offers absolutely no damage to the console or the discs as I used to do it on a daily basis multiple times a day and I'm pretty sure it'll work for the OP... if it doesn't there's absolutely no issue. What a welcome though, thank you, it's been a while since I've used forums.

edit - although I suppose if you're ham fisted enough (or happy to make wild inaccurate assumptions) you could push the disc on to the laser; you spin the CD from the middle.
 
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We don't talk about the MegaCD walkman attachment here.

Respectfully mate I'm not misleading anyone, I didn't say anything about a disc swap trick and I didn't say anything about closing the lid. Most audio CDs including retail CDs, especially in the 90s didn't have DRM... you're talking rubbish. It's a simple trick that would take 30 seconds to test offers absolutely no damage to the console or the discs as I used to do it on a daily basis multiple times a day and I'm pretty sure it'll work for the OP... if it doesn't there's absolutely no issue. What a welcome though, thank you, it's been a while since I've used forums.

edit - although I suppose if you're ham fisted enough (or happy to make wild inaccurate assumptions) you could push the disc on to the laser; you spin the CD from the middle.

Yes putting the ps1 on it's closed lid face down helped sometimes, I never tried it with the ps2 though as I remember some drives had problems with it being in the vertical position with the base stands an would actually scratch & damage the discs.
 
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Yes putting the ps1 on it's closed lid face down helped sometimes, I never tried it with the ps2 though as I remember some drives had problems with it being in the vertical position with the base stands an would actually scratch & damage the discs.

Ah, I did misread the OP I thought it was fat ps2 - ps2 slim not the other way around, not sure how you'd do it with a disc tray :/
 
Ah, I did misread the OP I thought it was fat ps2 - ps2 slim not the other way around, not sure how you'd do it with a disc tray :/

Yeah the pressure of the lid forces the middle black spindle down, I actually broke the spindle of one once through months of disc swappping & the metal ball bearings came out, the spindle I replaced it with would never sit at the right height away from the laser.
 

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