PS3 PS3 switching off after a while with no red light

[Riddle76]

Hi,

My PS3 switches off after between half an hour and 1.5 hrs and no red light shows. I can then not start it back up again by pressing the power button.

In order to start it up, I have to either unplug the mains plug from the socket and plug it back in again, or I have to switch the mains socket off and then on again. If I do that, the red light then appears again on the PS and I can start it back up again fine.

No signs of overheating, the console is purring away mildly, fans aren't racing.

Any ideas?

 

[Starship2]

Hi,

My PS3 switches off after between half an hour and 1.5 hrs and no red light shows. I can then not start it back up again by pressing the power button.

In order to start it up, I have to either unplug the mains plug from the socket and plug it back in again, or I have to switch the mains socket off and then on again. If I do that, the red light then appears again on the PS and I can start it back up again fine.

No signs of overheating, the console is purring away mildly, fans aren't racing.

Any ideas?

First of all, what model do u have?
to me it sounds like a bad power supply at first sight. but we do need more information.
if possible it would be helpful to post your errorlog. if not you have to troubleshoot, try a new PSU first.

 

[Riddle76]

First of all, what model do u have?
to me it sounds like a bad power supply at first sight. but we do need more information.
if possible it would be helpful to post your errorlog. if not you have to troubleshoot, try a new PSU first.

Hi, thanks for your reply.

The model I have is the PS3 Slim.

How do I post an error log?

 

[Starship2]

Hi, thanks for your reply.

The model I have is the PS3 Slim.


How do I post an error log?

yeah, but.. what exact slim revision?
in future always remember to tell us your CECH-XXXX code. you can find it on a sticker at the backside, if you didnt know. thats important as there are some major hardware changes within a model.


you can either dump your syscon via ps3toolset.com or read it with a TTL Adapter, what requires a bit of soldering.

 

[Riddle76]

yeah, but.. what exact slim revision?
in future always remember to tell us your CECH-XXXX code. you can find it on a sticker at the backside, if you didnt know. thats important as there are some major hardware changes within a model.


you can either dump your syscon via ps3toolset.com or read it with a TTL Adapter, what requires a bit of soldering.

Hi,
I'm afraid I'm only a fairly non technical user compared to you guys. I will investigate ps3toolset and see whether I can work it out.
In the meantime, my sticker on the back says : CECH 2003A - if that's any help?

 

[Falco1211]

The CECH-2003A model typically uses a PSU model APS-270, but some variations of the CECH-2000 series, including the CECH-2003A, may also use the APS-226 power supply, also, I don't wanna get into the whole NEC/Toking craziness but, sounds like a stress related YLOD, except the slim versions completely shut down after having a YLOD, since the slim versions don't suffer from BGA cracks it's an educated guess, you could however test the PSU or swap for a new one to see if it helps.

 

[Riddle76]

Just an update on this:

In the meantime, I have performed the potentiometer adjustment (approx 1/5 turn counter clockwise) within the PSU, as I've now learnt it possible, as my particular PSU contains these. Is that a recognised and respected fix on here or is it considered Heath Robinson?

I've also cleaned the inside of the console, although it was for the most part pretty clean already (especially the cooling fan).

So far, I've run the console for 4.5 hours with no shutdown. Also, the console runs at room temperature and doesn't even get warm. Also, there was a strange cracking sound coming from the console occasionally which now seems to have disappeared, although I suspect that is because the console is not getting warm. Previously I assumed it was the plastic of the case bending microscopically under temperature changes. However, maybe it could have been PSU-related?

I'm hopeful about this, will report back after further testing.

If this doesn't work, I'm going to buy a salvaged working replacement PSU from ebay and fit that, as suggested.

Looks like this thread sealed it for me as a suspected PSU problem, so thank you for that, whether it turns out to be sorted or not. I reckon that is the problem.