PS3 PS3 thermal paste replacement did not help, fan still speeds up

:highly amused::highly amused::highly amused::highly amused::highly amused:
Whatever you do just don't try to delid it yourself. Many have tried and failed. Its more safer and better to just put a big heatsink on it. I added a fan and now my ps3 fat is under 50 degees on full load. Do not put any extra holes in the ps3, just cut the area for the heatsink or else the ps3 will make a louder rumble. I drilled some holes to my ps3 but that was a first test to see if my temps went down. sadly it didn't.
DpIiT1Q.jpg

Btw anyone know how to tap 12volts on a fat p version motherboard? ATM im powering the external heatsink fan with a 12 volts op plug.
:highly amused::highly amused::highly amused::highly amused:
 
@sandungas I'm using a 230mm bitfenix fan. It's good enough to cool both heatsinks that's on the cell and rsx. When I try to route the pwm wire to the 230mm fan the internal fan stopped working. So i just left the og fan alone and the 230mm fan at max speed with no variable control.
 
@sandungas I'm using a 230mm bitfenix fan. It's good enough to cool both heatsinks that's on the cell and rsx. When I try to route the pwm wire to the 230mm fan the internal fan stopped working. So i just left the og fan alone and the 230mm fan at max speed with no variable control.
What i suggested was to keep the 230mm bitfenix fan in the same way you had it, and route the PWM wire to a secondary fan temporally for tests

And yeah, obviouslly, when you disconnect the PWM wire from the original fan it stops working... but i thought you already removed the original fan and heatsink... so in your actual setup the PWM wire is not connected to anything
 
Whatever you do just don't try to delid it yourself. Many have tried and failed. Its more safer and better to just put a big heatsink on it. I added a fan and now my ps3 fat is under 50 degees on full load. Do not put any extra holes in the ps3, just cut the area for the heatsink or else the ps3 will make a louder rumble. I drilled some holes to my ps3 but that was a first test to see if my temps went down. sadly it didn't.
DpIiT1Q.jpg

Btw anyone know how to tap 12volts on a fat p version motherboard? ATM im powering the external heatsink fan with a 12 volts op plug.

Well I see 2 big heatsinks which even are not mounted where CELL&RSX locate.

Bu..sh.., spam or something?
 
When people talk about PS3 Temp and fan speeds, they always miss the elephant in the room. That is the room temp.

Room Temp in my opinion is very important factor specially if you are in a hot area.

Digital Temperature monitor costs around one to two dollars at most. If you don't even want that, here is a way to find your room temp.

Keep your PS3 off for 3-4 hours. Start your PS3 from ambient cool Temp. When your PS3 loads up, the RSX/CELL (the lowest of two) is very close to your room Temp. You should subtract 3-4 degree celsius from temp to get an accurate idea.

For example. My PS3 cold boots at 44c CELL and 38c RSX. So my Room Temp is 38 - 4 = 34c. And i have also verified this from my digital Temp monitor.
 
Well I see 2 big heatsinks which even are not mounted where CELL&RSX locate.

Bu..sh.., spam or something?
They are mounted where the CELL and the RSX are, this is a VER-001 - CECHL0X, now the question is, how did he mount it, custom made heatsink or one is a PC Heatsink and another its a normal VER-001 Heatsink?

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
@Naked_Snake1995

I've seen this kind of mod on youtube many years ago, but I prefer delidding the processors and having the console the most original possible. But if you have the stuff and know how to mount them, there's nothing wrong in having a little monster over there.

 
Whatever you do just don't try to delid it yourself. Many have tried and failed. Its more safer and better to just put a big heatsink on it. I added a fan and now my ps3 fat is under 50 degees on full load. Do not put any extra holes in the ps3, just cut the area for the heatsink or else the ps3 will make a louder rumble. I drilled some holes to my ps3 but that was a first test to see if my temps went down. sadly it didn't.
DpIiT1Q.jpg

Btw anyone know how to tap 12volts on a fat p version motherboard? ATM im powering the external heatsink fan with a 12 volts op plug.

You get an A for effort but a big fat F for wasting what looks like 2 Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU heat sinks, also where are the 120mm fans..? And these are not exactly cheap heat sinks > Anywhere from £30 to £60 each depending on model and at one point these where the best air cooling heat sinks you could by for your PC... then Noctua came along and knocked them off the top spot.

If you going to do this you might as well have the fan config right and have them in a Push > Pull config... (both fans mounted facing the same way as each other) If you just using 1 fan then that's a massive no-no on a heat sink this big as its not going to dissipate the heat properly on one of the heat sinks.
 
Thermal paste is usually only designed to last a total of 1 or 2 years with daily use. That console is at minimum 11 years old. The PS3s heating issues aren't just tied to thermal paste. If you want a longer lasting thermal paste you could also try a liquid metal TIM.
What are the temp differences between liquid metal and mx 4 or nt h1? I have heard its only 3-4C and mx 4 lasts a pretty long time.
 
Sorry for any misunderstandings, but I didn't spend any money on this mod. I already had the pair of heatsinks in my closet collecting dust. I know the 230mm fan isn't the most efficient at moving moving the air away from the heatsinks but that's all I had laying around. The 230mm fan blows around the heatsinks and creates drag at the back, it's not much but it better than nothing. I already search for a water cooling solution but the cost for a kit is more than the actual ps3 itself. Thanks for your input, but I guess it is what it is.
 
When people talk about PS3 Temp and fan speeds, they always miss the elephant in the room. That is the room temp.

Room Temp in my opinion is very important factor specially if you are in a hot area.

Digital Temperature monitor costs around one to two dollars at most. If you don't even want that, here is a way to find your room temp.

Keep your PS3 off for 3-4 hours. Start your PS3 from ambient cool Temp. When your PS3 loads up, the RSX/CELL (the lowest of two) is very close to your room Temp. You should subtract 3-4 degree celsius from temp to get an accurate idea.

For example. My PS3 cold boots at 44c CELL and 38c RSX. So my Room Temp is 38 - 4 = 34c. And i have also verified this from my digital Temp monitor.
Yep, thats one way to find the ambient temperature, is needed to check it as soon as posible, and is needed to be strict about waiting at least that 3 or 4 hours to allow all the PS3 parts to return to ambient temperature
The error margin is mostly that 3 or 4 degrees you meassured that are needed to be substracted, but overall yeah... it works good enought

I was thinking about how to do this ambient temperature meassurement in a automated way by software because this is a very interesting value, at some point we was talking about it in the forum and aldo implemented some functions related with it in webman (if i remember right it can create a file with the temperature values recorded in the first seconds, when the PS3 boots), the point is webman is a process that is initiated very soon in the boot process so that error margin of 3-4 degress you mentioned should be a bit smaller (but it still exists, we dont know how big is though)

The only accurate way to do it (without any error margin) is incase the syscon chip keeps a record of the ambient temperature before the PS3 was booted, my guess is syscon probably is doing it, because is a processor, have a memory to store values temporally, is connected directly with the thermal sensors, and is powered up even when the PS3 is in standby so... why not ?... if is technically posible most probably sony did it. Is the kind of feature that could be handy when the engineers was doing tests with the PS3 prototypes
If that syscon feature exists is going to be very hard to find it, and making use of it could be tricky

At this point the syscon exploits and the reversing published are promising but in a different direction
Now is more interesting to change the fan settings inside syscon chip, this way we could increase a bit the factory values. It would be the best solution because is solving the problem at the root
 
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Sorry for any misunderstandings, but I didn't spend any money on this mod. I already had the pair of heatsinks in my closet collecting dust. I know the 230mm fan isn't the most efficient at moving moving the air away from the heatsinks but that's all I had laying around. The 230mm fan blows around the heatsinks and creates drag at the back, it's not much but it better than nothing. I already search for a water cooling solution but the cost for a kit is more than the actual ps3 itself. Thanks for your input, but I guess it is what it is.
What you could do is to use some plastic sheets to build some kind of "air tunnel" covering the heatsinks completly, like a sealed tube with a fan in one of the sides "sucking" air from the tube

This also aloows you to adapt the size of the tube to any fan size. Just an example... maybe the section of the tube is an square of 10x10cm just because the heatsinks have that dimmensions... but you can change the section of the tube creating a cone up to 12x12cm... or down to 8x8cm
 
Yep, thats one way to find the ambient temperature, is needed to check it as soon as posible, and is needed to be strict about waiting at least that 3 or 4 hours to allow all the PS3 parts to return to ambient temperature
The error margin is mostly that 3 or 4 degrees you meassured that are needed to be substracted, but overall yeah... it works good enought

I was thinking about how to do this ambient temperature meassurement in a automated way by software because this is a very interesting value, at some point we was talking about it in the forum and aldo implemented some functions related with it in webman (if i remember right it can create a file with the temperature values recorded in the first seconds, when the PS3 boots), the point is webman is a process that is initiated very soon in the boot process so that error margin of 3-4 degress you mentioned should be a bit smaller (but it still exists, we dont know how big is though)

The only accurate way to do it (without any error margin) is incase the syscon chip keeps a record of the ambient temperature before the PS3 was booted, my guess is syscon probably is doing it, because is a processor, have a memory to store values temporally, is connected directly with the thermal sensors, and is powered up even when the PS3 is in standby so... why not ?... if is technically posible most probably sony did it. Is the kind of feature that could be handy when the engineers was doing tests with the PS3 prototypes
If that syscon feature exists is going to be very hard to find it, and making use of it could be tricky

At this point the syscon exploits and the reversing published are promising but in a different direction
Now is more interesting to change the fan settings inside syscon chip, this way we could increase a bit the factory values. It would be the best solution because is solving the problem at the root


I bought this for about $1 from local market. Requires two button cells which came free with it. And it gives room temperature quite accurate (error of 1c or 2c at most).

https://www.amazon.in/MEXTECH-PM-10...6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1588052923&sr=1-16

I also have a thermocouple in my multimeter which is 99.9% accurate but that's more expensive.


Edit - By the way regarding SYSCON. I heard all kind of wishful things and expectations when SYSCON key was extracted. Jailbreak and CFW on Super Slim. Full PS3 exploit on all PS3 models. PS3 will grow wings and it will fly in sky.....

But yet to see any real benefits of those keys.
 
I bought this for about $1 from local market. Requires two button cells which came free with it. And it gives room temperature quite accurate (error of 1c or 2c at most).

https://www.amazon.in/MEXTECH-PM-10...6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1588052923&sr=1-16

I also have a thermocouple in my multimeter which is 99.9% accurate but that's more expensive.
I know them, i liked them so much that i bought 3 :D
Initially i only needed 2 (for a xbox360 case mod) but i bought one more just incase, the only difference is the ones i bought was "scythe kama thermo", and are in black color
They have pins at the back btw, you can connect a 5v wire to feed them (this way are not needed the batery cells), mines have a blue backlight (which intensity can be regulated, i guess by replacing a resistor), and if you take the electronics out of the "plastic" is even smaller

Some time ago i was thinking in using them in a PS3 slim. Placing them under the "front border" of the PS3 slim, there is like an angle and they fits fine in there
Also, the thermal sensor (located at the tip of the wires) can be removed and solder the wires to a different thermal sensor (like the ones in PS3 motherboards). I never did it though, and im not so sure if that thermal sensors follows some kind of standards
You know... maybe the original sensor from the display meassures values with 4 digits, and the PS3 sensors with 8 digits. In that case is not going to work fine (is going to display garbage values)

Edit - By the way regarding SYSCON. I heard all kind of wishful things and expectations when SYSCON key was extracted. Jailbreak and CFW on Super Slim. Full PS3 exploit on all PS3 models. PS3 will grow wings and it will fly in sky.....

But yet to see any real benefits of those keys.
There are some different syscon revisions, they started with the prototypes, then the CXR series (used in the first PS3 models), last time i heard about it they was trying to exploit the syscon SW series
The syscon CXR series seems to be the target of study because there is a lot of unknown data inside it, and most probably all them have a lot of things in common, so whatever they finds in CXR could be useful for the other PS3 models
 
Some time ago i was thinking in using them in a PS3 slim. Placing them under the "front border" of the PS3 slim, there is like an angle and they fits fine in there

People with No functional BD drive can think of plenty of mods to put a Temp sensor on PS3. They can drill hole on top and put Temp monitor in BD drive (which is gone anyway).
 
What are the temp differences between liquid metal and mx 4 or nt h1? I have heard its only 3-4C and mx 4 lasts a pretty long time.
Not sure about the exact temp differences but liquid metal doesn't really ever dry out it just eventually alloys with the IHS or the die, that's why I use it personally.
 
People with No functional BD drive can think of plenty of mods to put a Temp sensor on PS3. They can drill hole on top and put Temp monitor in BD drive (which is gone anyway).
But my idea was to add them externaly, without any case modification, the PS3 slim case have some holes under this front border (for the wires / pins), and the dimmensions of the thermal displays fits almost perfect in this position ;)
bMXrNVP.jpg
 
Dont get stuck on the NEC tokin train, yes they fail but rarely compared to the other main issues with the old PS3 FATS.

Liquid metal has too many risks to use, so avoid!

A pro tip who wants to do this, delid cpu and gpu, use a good thermal paste - i use GD900 from aliexpress as cheaper alternative to MX4

And search for 'copper shims 42x42mm 1.2mm ps3', creates a great heat bridge and i've found a reduction of heat by 2%

Unfortunatley the early CELL and RSX 90nm are power hungry, heat monsters - if you are getting 70c or below you are doing well and its the best you will get with them. the newer 65nm and 40nm will run at 60c or lower

There is also issues that occur with the IC buck regulator chips - the two black chips above the nec tokins - Over voltage or low voltage can cause the CELL or RSX to overheat. A simple resistance check on the nec tokins postive points - a good resistance is 2.5 ohms and above, below means there is issues.

I've repaired CECHHK models with the 65nm and barely reach 60C when running a heavy game.

To give you context the COK-001,002 and SEM-001 motherboards have the 90nm CELL and RSX and usually run 66c to 75cope

Hope this helps?

Word of advise dont mess about with the NEC tokins unless you have the tools to do it, you can really reck the motherboard!

A clean removal use a BGA machine, it makes me cry seeing people use hot air guns....

There is so many issues that can occur I could write a book about it.

I finally found a 19 blade fan and I'm going to open up my fat BC PS3 again to replace the fan but fortunately I have some invaluable detailed information about those capacitors here:

I'm going to replace them too and the latest improvement is applying liquid Metal under the IHSs.
 
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Dont get stuck on the NEC tokin train, yes they fail but rarely compared to the other main issues with the old PS3 FATS.

DONT use liquid metal, this will eventually kill them!

A pro tip who wants to do this, delid cpu and gpu, use a good thermal paste - i use GD900 from aliexpress as cheaper alternative to MX4

And search for 'copper shims 42x42mm 1.2mm ps3', creates a great heat bridge and i've found a reduction of heat by 2%

Unfortunatley the early CELL and RSX 90nm are power hungry, heat monsters - if you are getting 70c or below you are doing well and its the best you will get with them. the newer 65nm and 40nm will run at 50c or lower,

I've repaired CECHHK models with the 65nm and barely reach 60C when running a heavy game.

To give you context the COK-001,002 and SEM-001 motherboards have the 90nm CELL and RSX and usually run 66c to 75cope

Hope this helps?

Word of advise dont mess about with the NEC tokins unless you have the tools to do it, you can really reck the motherboard!

A clean removal use a BGA machine, it makes me cry seeing people use hot air guns....
Who told you that liquid metal will kill them?
 
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