PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

sandungas said:
Yep, is a big difference if you buy them in lots
I dont remember how many are needed right now, this depends of the capacitance in uf units btw... are connected in paralell so you need to sum them to find the total capacitance

In some PS3 models the tokins from factory are 1200uF (PS3 fat) and in others are 1000uF (Slim)
You need to equal or exceed this value by the total sum of the new tantalum capacitors

If you do it with tantalum capacitors of 330uf each... you will need more... but are cheaper as far i know

This is one of the announces we was commenting in private
https://es.aliexpress.com/popular/330uf-tantalum-capacitor-smd.html

The magic words (for a succes search) are:
330 tantalum capacitor smd

Try to search for that (and eventually the word "lot" too)
Click to expand...

My ps3 is cechc (COK-002) so I'd assume I'm in the higher uF range...
How do I check the total uF based off of info found on chips/motherboard?
There are 8 NEC caps in total on this board so 32 tantalums needed. I just need to work out that uF rating and I'm good to find the correct ones on aliexpress
 
Fix suggested @Naked_Snake1995
cok-001-8-jpg.19122

In that image is only needed to use 1 wire... you have 2 but with 1 is enought
Check with a multimeter to confirm it... the V_IN and V-OUT traces of that "tandem" of tokins are connected to each other

Actually... at the other side of the board there is another "tandem" of 2 tokins that should be connected together with this ones
So... i think is needed 1 single wire for every 4 tokins (incase of removing all the tokins)
 
Fin9ersMcGee said:
Ok, I went back over the guide one more time and realised I read it slightly wrong.

I need 470uF 6.3v for my phat model.
Click to expand...
Is like this, im going to copypaste something i wrote
The value of the capacitors inside the tokins can be find by the produt number
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/c...one-game-ylod-style.20826/page-10#post-145703
In that post i wrote this:
In PS3:
NEC/TOKIN 0E128 (old PS3 models) = 2.5V 1200uF
NEC/TOKIN 0E108 (new PS3 models) = 2.5V 1000uF

The fatties needs moar capacitance because the CELL and RSX are more hungry
qTXXwhi.jpg


You can replace each tokin by 4 tantalum capacitors of 330uf @ 2.5v
This gives you a total of 1320uf for every tokin... is 120uf bigger than the value of every tokin from factory but this is good, they will last for more time

For the voltage... it doesnt matters much, you can replace capacitors by others of bigger voltage (up to a limit), but is better if you buy them with the same voltage @ 2.5v
If i remember right... @Naked_Snake1995 tryed to replace them by others with different voltages and was working fine
 
sandungas said:
Is like this, im going to copypaste something i wrote
The value of the capacitors inside the tokins can be find by the produt number
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/c...one-game-ylod-style.20826/page-10#post-145703
In that post i wrote this:
In PS3:
NEC/TOKIN 0E128 (old PS3 models) = 2.5V 1200uF
NEC/TOKIN 0E108 (new PS3 models) = 2.5V 1000uF

The fatties needs moar capacitance because the CELL and RSX are more hungry
qTXXwhi.jpg


You can replace each tokin by 4 tantalum capacitors of 330uf @ 2.5v
This gives you a total of 1320uf for every tokin... is 120uf bigger than the value of every tokin from factory but this is good, they will last for more time

For the voltage... it doesnt matters much, you can replace capacitors by others of bigger voltage (up to a limit), but is better if you buy them with the same voltage @ 2.5v
If i remember right... @Naked_Snake1995 tryed to replace them by others with different voltages and was working fine
Click to expand...

You say 330uF is fine for fats, but @Naked_Snake1995 does say in this guide to use 470uF on fats...
Either is fine?
 
Ahhh, sorry. My electronics knowledge has been worthless as of late.

These caps are wired in parallel. So 4x 470uF covers more than 1 NEC caps load?
So replacing 2 NEC caps with 8 tantalum covers that area of the RSX? (8x470 for 3760uF total. Which is just under the total to cover all 4 NEC on RSX)
 
Fin9ersMcGee said:
You say 330uF is fine for fats, but @Naked_Snake1995 does say in this guide to use 470uF on fats...
Either is fine?
Click to expand...
Your maths are fine, not sure why @Naked_Snake went so high in capacitance, but either is fine, capacitors have a wide range of availabe values for replacement, you can go higher in capacitance and in voltage
Going higher in capacitance usually means the capacitor will last for more time because is not going to work at full workload and because they decreases his capacitance along time when wears out (years of use)

Inside every tokin there are 2 capacitors... and the datasheet tells the total capacitance of a single tokin (for PS3 fats) is 1200uf

In the drawing @Naked_Snake have 4 * 470uf for every tokin... this makes a total of 1880uf... is a lot more than the factory value but yeah probably is fine :D
You could do it with 3 * 470uf for every tokin... for a total of 1410uf... this is closer to factory

4 * 330uf fits better for PS3 fats though

-------------
And for the PS3 slims (that needs 1000uf for every tokin)... it can be made with 3 * 330uf for every tokin
 
Fin9ersMcGee said:
You say 330uF is fine for fats, but @Naked_Snake1995 does say in this guide to use 470uF on fats...
Either is fine?
Click to expand...
This its the problem when you don't read the guide carefully, its stated in plain red, only for the DECR-1400, with the DEB-001, you can use either 330 or 470uF, due to being identical to a CECH-2000 DYN-001 Board, all other models Phat Models, a 470uF Tantalum must be used.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
Fin9ersMcGee said:
@Naked_Snake1995
You mention the required tantalum specs here:



Are these figures ranges? So uF rating between 330 and 470 and voltage between 2.5 and 6.3?
Is there a specific rating that is better over another?
Click to expand...
The best option its to have a 2.5V Tantalum, but somewhat these are hard to find, at least for me, so i went to 470uF - Rated at 6.3V, which works just fine.

Rated Voltage, doesn't mean constant voltage, its simply the rated voltage that the capacitor its ok to work with, in this case until 6.3V,so if the PS3 needs 2.5V, the 6.3V Tantalum, will provide 2.5V, as long as its rated its ok.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
sandungas said:
Your maths are fine, not sure why @Naked_Snake went so high in capacitance, but either is fine, capacitors have a wide range of availabe values for replacement, you can go higher in capacitance and in voltage
Going higher in capacitance usually means the capacitor will last for more time because is not going to work at full workload and because they decreases his capacitance along time when wears out (years of use)

Inside every tokin there are 2 capacitors... and the datasheet tells the total capacitance of a single tokin (for PS3 fats) is 1200uf

In the drawing @Naked_Snake have 4 * 470uf for every tokin... this makes a total of 1880uf... is a lot more than the factory value but yeah probably is fine :D
You could do it with 3 * 470uf for every tokin... for a total of 1410uf... this is closer to factory

4 * 330uf fits better for PS3 fats though

-------------
And for the PS3 slims (that needs 1000uf for every tokin)... it can be made with 3 * 330uf for every tokin
Click to expand...

Yep sounds about right! :D


1.jpg
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
This its the problem when you don't read the guide carefully, its stated in plain red, only for the DECR-1400, with the DEB-001, you can use either 330 or 470uF, due to being identical to a CECH-2000 DYN-001 Board, all other models Phat Models, a 470uF Tantalum must be used.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

First time I misread. But @sandungas suggested 330uf and theres where I got confused... conflicting info from 2 users...

So.... 470uF 2.5v is what I need for fat COK-002
 
Fin9ersMcGee said:
First time I misread. But @sandungas suggested 330uf and theres where I got confused... conflicting info from 2 users...

So.... 470uF 2.5v is what I need for fat COK-002
Click to expand...
I recommend 470uF due to one thing, the first time ive tried 330uF didnt work for me, and if the Capacitance its lower than 1200uF for each NEC the PS3 simply wont boot, thats why i went to the 470uF route, although ive tested them both 4 x 330uF and 4 x 470uF, and the 470uF worked for me, you can try 330uF although if you go the 470uF route, you have to use 3 Tantalums instead of 4, but ive used 4 of them,which works :)

There were reports of people doing combinations with 2x330uF and 1x470uF on COK-001 Boards and that also worked, although the combined capacitence its 1.136uF , thats 64uF below the required NEC Capacitence, but by some miracle it works.
 
Revak3115 said:
So i have a 20GB Backwards Compatible System. if the system is cooler then 60C it will crash in PS1 games with the YLOD or if i turn off the system with the power button/software-options, it will shut off then immediately do 3-beeps with no YLOD. if the system is warmer then 60C none of these issues seem to happen...(from my experience) when it hasn't been turned on for a week it will take 2 or more tries to power on the system without YLOD. so would this perhaps fix these issues i'm having?
Click to expand...
PlayStation Titles, are a good test field to determine if the console needs a NEC Capacitor replacement or not, mine would YLOD immediately on a FMV or Gameplay.

You are one of the lucky ones,just like my CECHC04, with the original capacitors it took more than 2 trys to boot the machine, eventualy the more you use the console the more these capacitors wear out, to a point that the console wont boot at all.

The problem with these capacitors its that if they are warm, they sort of operate like they should, restoring theyre original operational capacity, the problem is, that its only temporary, once again,the more you use the machine,the more the capacitors wear out, so a replacement its advised,but in your case you can get away with it by only repalcing one NEC on the RSX, if that doesnt work, proccede to the next one, although for testing 1 NEC replacement worked for me, on the RSX.
 
What happens is the capacitors (in general) are very sensitive to temperature, lets say we have a capacitor that was designed to work in a range of 10ºC up to 80ºC

After lot of time of use, when is weared out that range could be something like 27ºC up to 43ºC
If you are in a cold day in winter, lets say with ambient temperature of 24ºC then inmediatly when you try to boot the device... is not going to work (because ambient temperature is lower than the range needed by the capacitor)
You press the button and the device tryes to boot... and inmediatly it turns off... and usually tryes to boot again... and inmediatly turns off again... and so on in a loop... and while doing that loop the circuit board (and the capacitor itself) starts to heat up a bit... so after few minutes doing that loop the device turns on

This happened to me in few PC monitors, with one of them i was turning it on at the morning and it started doing an infinite loop trying to turn on
I was lazy (and i imagined which problem it had) so i was using the monitor like that for several days
The first days it was booting in 3 minutes or so... and after a week it was taking 10 minutes to boot (lol, at this point i had to fix it and stop being a lazy bastard... i opened it, changed the capacitors, and fixed it)

Im not saying that this happens always, but is very usual... and actually sometimes it happens completly the opposite, the capacitor only works when the device is cold... but when it heats up it starts failing
This happened to me with PC power supplies, at the first 1 or 2 hours of use the PC was working fine, but after that the hdds was doing the typical "click" noises that means the hdd needle went to the "parking" position and the hdd have been disconnected
Yeah, this was causing the classic "blue screens of death" in windows and eventually caused me some damaged "bad sectors" in the hdds
Here the problem is the opposite.. the capacitor cant operate over lets say... 45ºC

Moral of the story... if the temperature goes out of the range of the capacitor (either for excess or for being not enought) the power line becomes unestable

You never know if is one or the other, but there are some cases, like what @Revak3115 is saying, his PS3 only works fine when is hot (and probably in summer better than winter), it looks a typical example of what im saying
 
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Fascinating. That was a great read Naked_Snake1995. I just wish I had the ability to do this myself. I have a CECHA01 which recently YLOD on me. Would it be possible to do this for me (i'm based in the UK)? I apologise if it's against the rules to ask such a thing, though it is out of my skill level completely.
 
TheMadPolarBear said:
Fascinating. That was a great read Naked_Snake1995. I just wish I had the ability to do this myself. I have a CECHA01 which recently YLOD on me. Would it be possible to do this for me (i'm based in the UK)? I apologise if it's against the rules to ask such a thing, though it is out of my skill level completely.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately i am not based in the UK, and even if i was i dont feel comfortable fixing someone else´s consoles on the fear "if something goes wrong!" type, this is an easy proccedure, its not an advanced level repair, minimal soldering skills its required though.

If you feel uncomfortable doing it yourself, you can always seek some help though a friend or a repair-shop that knows how to solder SMD Capacitors, and guide them in the process, i am sure this will work with your A01, it worked for me amongst many other users, so i see no reason why it shouldn´t, unless you solder them wrong or screew something up in the process. :)
 
Ah ok, no worries! Thank you very much for the information any how, real asset to the community!

I'll have to see if there's someone or a repair shop nearby then that could do it. Hopefully have something sorted out in the next few weeks!
 
TheMadPolarBear said:
Ah ok, no worries! Thank you very much for the information any how, real asset to the community!

I'll have to see if there's someone or a repair shop nearby then that could do it. Hopefully have something sorted out in the next few weeks!
Click to expand...
Wish you good luck mate, may the A01 be brought back to life :)
 
Hi i can order theese caps right now are these good to this aplication?
kemet T491D477K006AT
avx TPSD477K006R0100
 
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