Sorry if this sounds off topic but by any chance does anybody here who does these capacitor replacements also have a repair shop or would be willing to repair my ps3s as I'd like to get my old cechc02 and cechj02 ps3s working again and I've never soldered for the life of me and this certainly doesn't look like something for a beginner. I am from Australia so I know shipping is not going to be good but I'd like to get them back to life.
PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD
- Thread starter Naked_Snake1995
- Start date
DoublesAdvocate
Member
Your best bet would likely be to find a local electronic repair shop. That way you'll be able to see some of their work and you can have them test their work before they take your money. Even if they don't specialize in the PS3 most electronic repair shops have the proper skills & equipment to do the work which is what really matters.
x64
Member
Yeah and I would give them the url to this guide to go over
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AluCarD3939
Member
I got my caps and ready to replace caps on my CECHG03, my question is which one i should replace first ? how i can check with multi-meter which is bad ? the problem i have on my ps3 is when i try to turn it on it will give me YLOD, but when i spam the on button for couple of minutes, it would run normally.
I won't replace it all one time, but i want to make sure to start one by one and start with the bad ones
Edit: i feel so dumb
i already asked Naked_snake before and he gave me the info i need to fix my ps3.
I won't replace it all one time, but i want to make sure to start one by one and start with the bad ones
Edit: i feel so dumb
i already asked Naked_snake before and he gave me the info i need to fix my ps3.
Last edited:
DoublesAdvocate
Member
Well if you're able to boot it up after trying a bunch of times then the good news is that the issue IS the capacitors without a doubt. The problem is measuring them to discover which one has degraded to the point of failure. From looking online it is possible to measure the capacitance but you would need to de solder half of it from the board so it isn't in circuit anymore. The easier test for you it you could take the machine while its cold and disassemble it to the point where its completely out of the casing, shielding, etc but still have the PSU and power button attached. Then warm up a pair of the capacitors quickly, if it boots properly then you know its likely one of those 2 that's on its last legs, let the board cool and try it again with another set. Go through all of them one by one until you find the ones most likely to be almost dead and repair those ones first.I got my caps and ready to replace caps on my CECHG03, my question is which one i should replace first ? how i can check with multi-meter which is bad ? the problem i have on my ps3 is when i try to turn it on it will give me YLOD, but when i spam the on button for couple of minutes, it would run normally.
I won't replace it all one time, but i want to make sure to start one by one and start with the bad ones
Edit: i feel so dumb
Naked_Snake1995
Senior Member
@Cypher_CG89, translation mate, i only understood the last part "maybe someone wants to try, by the same method" [emoji23]
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KillerBs75
Forum Noob
Hi, thanks for all this good information. I've never owned a PS3 but I picked this one up on eBay. I always wanted the hardware backwards compatible one and thought it would be fun to try to fix one. I have a nice CECHA-01 with the YLOD. I know nothing about it but it was $30 and warranty sealed that I'm trying to fix.
Replaced all the capacitors, total of (32) 470uf 6V between both sides of the board. Soldered a bridge wire between the positives on both the RSX and the CELL on the bottom of the board. Still no luck.
I've been checking all my work with a meter as I'm not exactly an expert solderer. I get ~0 ohms between every single capacitor and it's respective positive or negative pad on the board, so I'm pretty sure all of those are good. I checked from the positive to the negative pads and it shows continuity--so I checked resistance and I get about 2 ohms. I suppose that's ok. It's certainly not a short due to a soldering error.
Still nothing. It will turn on long enough for the fan to spin up for a second then three beeps, yellow light, red flashing light. Is there anything else I need to check?
Replaced all the capacitors, total of (32) 470uf 6V between both sides of the board. Soldered a bridge wire between the positives on both the RSX and the CELL on the bottom of the board. Still no luck.
I've been checking all my work with a meter as I'm not exactly an expert solderer. I get ~0 ohms between every single capacitor and it's respective positive or negative pad on the board, so I'm pretty sure all of those are good. I checked from the positive to the negative pads and it shows continuity--so I checked resistance and I get about 2 ohms. I suppose that's ok. It's certainly not a short due to a soldering error.
Still nothing. It will turn on long enough for the fan to spin up for a second then three beeps, yellow light, red flashing light. Is there anything else I need to check?
Naked_Snake1995
Senior Member
This is why i never advise to make a full replacement,until things go wrong, for starters, you should have replaced just one capacitor for now and test it, replacing them all at once usually ends up in a big messy failure, for mine i just replaced one for the RSX and one for the CELL, so far works as intended.
I have seen this too. The resistance between + and - seemed so low I was thinking it was a short until I took apart my working PS3 and found similar values.
I'll hopefully do more investigation this weekend.
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KillerBs75
Forum Noob
That was partially an unintended consequence of me not being a long time PS3 person. I did that originally but I confused the top and bottom of the board. It was my understanding that the top of the board was the side with all the assorted CPUs on it. I replaced those last week one at a time and it didn't fix anything. I believe that's actually considered the bottom since it's on the bottom of the PS3? At least that's what realization I came to.
I was gone all weekend, but this week the second attempt was to replace the capacitors on the other side and put in bridge wires. Still not helping. It may be a lost cause unit but I'm no quitter. Unless there's something else to check that I didn't know about I'll find some time later this week and take the capacitors off and test them again I guess and go one by one and testing every individual capacitor right before I put it on. Unfortunately I don't think there's a meter-test way to determine if they are giving the correct reading as a group while on the board.
Chino Moreno
Member
I tested the continuity of the positive and negative of the 2 nec tokins i removed from a slim. It's beeping which means a short. If i place the prong on the positive side of the 1st nec, and the negative side of the second nec, it still beeps. Take note that i already removed the old nec tokins and im referring to the 4 positive and negative lines where the nec tokins were before. Does that mean the nec on the other side is causing the short?
So this is an ylod system that i bought. It is untampered. It automatically goes green-3 beeps-yellow-flashing red in just 1 to 2 seconds.
So this is an ylod system that i bought. It is untampered. It automatically goes green-3 beeps-yellow-flashing red in just 1 to 2 seconds.
Last edited:
Chino Moreno
Member
I checked continuity between + and -. There is. I also tried 1 probe to ground and attached one to either positive or negative. Both beeps. Is this ok? This is a ps3 slim. Any help is appreciated so i can start installing the 8 capacitors for the 2 tokins that i have already removed at the top side.
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Hi guys, I have a CECHC04 that has these symptoms - After the console has been unplugged for the night it will start, display the ps3 logo and give the warning about improper shutdown (no garbled graphics or anything, everything looks proper), and then after about 10 seconds it will shut down with 3 beeps. After that, unplugging the console and plugging it back in then turning it on gives an instant ylod. After I leave the console unplugged for 6-7 hours, it will turn on for 10-15 seconds displaying everything once again. Does this sound like a bad capacitor problem?
nCadeRegal
Senior Member
From everything I have been reading here in this thread it does sound like the symptoms the others have listed.
Fin9ersMcGee
Senior Member
Then I'm ordering the replacement caps. I'll try to document the procedure and post the results
Good luck, brohanigan
Well, I replaced 3 caps - 1 bottom rsx cap (I apparently pierced it when i delidded the rsx), then one top rsx cap and finally one top cell cap. So far, the symptoms are still the same - After being unplugged for a longer time, the console will start and output display through hdmi and then shutdown with 3 beeps. After that it needs a few hour break before it starts for 20-40 seconds again. I'm at a loss. Should I just replace more caps?
Edit: Also, before it dies the fans ramp up really high, even though the chips are delidded and the paste has been replaced. Could the console somehow think it's overheating?
Edit: Also, before it dies the fans ramp up really high, even though the chips are delidded and the paste has been replaced. Could the console somehow think it's overheating?
Last edited:
Naked_Snake1995
Senior Member
If the fans ramp up at high speeds, that's not a cap issue, but rather a misplaced IHS, pretty common when deliding a chip, to avoid overheating the machine, simply align the IHS with the heatspreaders, usually it there is a visible area on the heatspreaders themselfs, as you can use to align the IHS themselfs, the PlayStation3 its quite picky to IHS alignment, even the slightest misplacement its enough for the chips to overheat, creating a thermal panic with the system at very short operational times.
Look for burn marks on the heatspreaders, use that as a alignment reference, burn marks on the Heatspreaders are usually a visible square, about the same size as the IHS.
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AluCarD3939
Member
I got good new,bad news and another good news 
First i started working on this capacitor on right side, only one capacitor as you guys suggested.
I soldered 3 small capacitors (2R5TPE470M9 470UF 2.5V)
The first good news here is now the PS3 is working normally, Before it wont turn on until i spam the power button for like 10 mins.
after soldering the capacitors, its working from the first time
And then i got the bad news, when i try to start any game its going to black screen and nothing happen
.
Then i start thinking what is the causing of the issue
, i touched the new capacitors while the console is on.
I found that the two capacitors near each other they are hot when i touch them, but the other one is not hot at all.
I though maybe i did not solder it probably, so i reflowed the soldering there, and i tested again but also the same problem.
I decided to add the 4th capacitor just to make sure there is enough capacity for the console to make it work.
Even with adding the 4th capacitor the same issue still, console working fine with menus, but when i start a game, black screen.
Then i started thinking again what was wrong in what i am doing.
all this time i was testing the console without the Blue-ray drive connected to the ps3, then i plugged the drive and start testing the games, ITS WORKING
.
it was from the drive not plugged in the console and i thought its not necessary
but it is NECESSARY to run the games 
Now the console is running great, its time for testing heavy games. any suggestion to what games i should test?
Next mission for me is to mod it to add fans and make the heating less on the console.
Thanks to everyone in this thread who helped me, thank you so much <3
First i started working on this capacitor on right side, only one capacitor as you guys suggested.
I soldered 3 small capacitors (2R5TPE470M9 470UF 2.5V)
The first good news here is now the PS3 is working normally, Before it wont turn on until i spam the power button for like 10 mins.
after soldering the capacitors, its working from the first time
And then i got the bad news, when i try to start any game its going to black screen and nothing happen
.Then i start thinking what is the causing of the issue
, i touched the new capacitors while the console is on.I found that the two capacitors near each other they are hot when i touch them, but the other one is not hot at all.
I though maybe i did not solder it probably, so i reflowed the soldering there, and i tested again but also the same problem.
I decided to add the 4th capacitor just to make sure there is enough capacity for the console to make it work.
Even with adding the 4th capacitor the same issue still, console working fine with menus, but when i start a game, black screen.
Then i started thinking again what was wrong in what i am doing
.all this time i was testing the console without the Blue-ray drive connected to the ps3, then i plugged the drive and start testing the games, ITS WORKING
.it was from the drive not plugged in the console and i thought its not necessary
but it is NECESSARY to run the games Now the console is running great, its time for testing heavy games. any suggestion to what games i should test?
Next mission for me is to mod it to add fans and make the heating less on the console.
Thanks to everyone in this thread who helped me, thank you so much <3
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