PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Why i believed in this fix in the first place before trying anything else in fixing, here is small story:
First i am working in the IT field and when i start this carrier i was computer technician, you know fix PC and laptops.
After time i start noticing some PCs will act very weird and random crashes happen even if you try to install new OS or change the hard disk.
When i check on the mother board i sometimes find blown capacitors in the motherboard, when i discovered about the blown capacitors
i start reading about what is the job of this part for the pc and how it works.
Then i start to learning about soldering and i bought the tools i need to practice and fix this blown capacitors in the motherboards.
When i repair the motherboard by replacing the capacitor for like less than 1$, all symptoms and weird crashes will gone.
I was the only one in my area that fixes the motherboard for many costumers, other shops will always tell to replace the motherboard :cower:.

the symptoms that i saw in PCs from the blown caps is like: no booting, blue screen of death, slow OS, errors show up randomly.

i stopped buying consoles since ps2 and changed to PC all of the time until recently my neighbor throw his ps3 CECHG03 between his apartment and mine,i was coming back from my parents house when saw the console on the ground, i took it and start to see if i can fix it or not.
The first issue was YLOD during booting,i need to spam the power button for 10 min until it run.
2nd problem was the disk drive was make noises when i turn on the console, i inserted a card inside it and pulled a disc, then i found out there was 2 discs stuck inside, one of those discs was sonic unleashed.
after that i start searching the internet about reballing and i was planing to do it but it did not convince what was in the internet.

Until i found this thread and i kept reading it everyday, since i got previous experience with capacitors, i knew this is will fix it for sure.
my console was like charging the caps when i spam the power button for like 10 mins until it works, thats what convinced me to replace the caps.
and now the console works perfectly
Note: when i found this console, the seal of the warranty was there not touched, i was the first one who opened it.


Sorry for the long wall of text.
You replaced by tantalum caps or by new tokins?
Edit: Nevermind... I have not seen your previous post...
 
3 > 60GB BC PS3's for £80 each incl. 6 month warrenty, + 1 x CECHA US import for £95 w/ 6 month warrenty, 1x CECHB £90 w/ 6 month warrenty..... all come with offical controllers not fake crap all in a shop near me in the UK.

You live in the wrong country to get your hands PS3's cheap mate....

Just got my "YLOD CECHA01 for parts" from eBay today, super exited opening the package to find out... it's a f-ing CHECHG06! Feels bad man...

Sweden sucks when it comes to import, can't find any place that have US imports in stock
 
Just got my "YLOD CECHA01 for parts" from eBay today, super exited opening the package to find out... it's a f-ing CHECHG06! Feels bad man...

Sweden sucks when it comes to import, can't find any place that have US imports in stock
Thats sucks man, you should return the console to the seller or that is going also to cost you more ?
 
Thats sucks man, you should return the console to the seller or that is going also to cost you more ?
Yup. He gave me a full refund after I explained that all fats are not automatically a launch unit, especially not a NTSC one (this was even a PAL). Still it's almost impossible to find one around here. I do own two CECHC, so I wanted to replace one for a CECHA since I do love the novelty of running full backwards compatibility.
 
Okay I picked up those 9 "broken" PS3's today but there's a bit of an issue, only 2 of them seem to have an actual YLOD (lmao)
1 of them had a dead PSU (currently working)

1 of them was working but would try to recheck because of a dying HDD (currently working)

1 of them had a RLOD but it turns out that the power button had just been squished (currently working)

1 of them was a GLOD but it turns out it just needed a new HDD (currently working)

1 of them has artifacting on the screen when its not giving 0 display output (this one still has the warranty seal)

1 has a YLOD but opening it up it actually has a big blob of corrosion on the mobo near where the power button connects

1 was a GLOD when I first turned it on but after trying to turn it on again I heard a very faint electrical popping sound and it now gives YLOD. I took this one apart and there seems to be flux residue on the USB ports, display outputs, and around the CELL so I would suspect this one had quite a lot of work done on it by sony (warranty seal was still intact when I got to it)

2 of them have a YLOD and both have their warranty seal intact meaning I can hopefully get some useful information out of them since we know no one has messed with them
 
So ive got some good news and bad news.

Upon testing The Last Of Us, the game as expected would shutoff the machine on the 3/7 min mark, which means more caps needs to be replaced in order to hold with the RSX load, the temperatures brutaly spikes to 73ºCs on the RSX,which points to a high RSX power draw,and with only one NEC replaced, this simply isnt enough.

The testing was preformed on two NEC based systems, the CECHC04 and CECH-2004A, the 2004A didnt present any issue, but remember since the C04 its 13 years older, than the 2004A, the NEC degradation its much higher, thus the reason for the shutdown, Gran Turismo 6 has been resolved,but TLoU still eats NECs for breakfast.

The good news is that 99% of the PlayStation3 Titles are playable,without any hitch, with the exception being TLoU, on my end every question has been answered, i will retire this console from further testing, and use another Model to be more useful Guinea-Pig.
 
So is a ps3 that you turn on and turning itself off right after, fixable?
Is that the reason why it doesnt start and doesnt stay on because of damaged mosfet resistors or the pwm chip?
I'm just trying to find the cause of why my two slims started behaving like that.
 
with new caps and delid they become beasts,cooling is much more robust and you'll have dependable machine for years to come.only real hassle then that's left is networking.
Yeah. Only if sony would build their machines to last which is ridiculous the way they've made the cell and rsx chip ihs boards not to be removed when in pcs you can get access to the chips easy and replace the thermal paste in them.
 
So is a ps3 that you turn on and turning itself off right after, fixable?
Is that the reason why it doesnt start and doesnt stay on because of damaged mosfet resistors or the pwm chip?
I'm just trying to find the cause of why my two slims started behaving like that.
I can´t give you a solid answer on that issue, on the 2100 Series and upwards, this issue is known as BlackOut, it could be the issues you desrcibed,or very well be the solder-joints, if the board is flexed too much.

I had a 2504B around two years ago with the same issue, at first i though perhaps it was a bad power supply,but it turned out not to be the case, the console was never delided.

After that model, ive delided many Phats and Slims included,never had any issues with them,even with the 2500 Series,which are hard as nails to delid the RSX,since the litography is so low,making the chip entrance extremely narrow.
 
I can´t give you a solid answer on that issue, on the 2100 Series and upwards, this issue is known as BlackOut, it could be the issues you desrcibed,or very well be the solder-joints, if the board is flexed too much.

I had a 2504B around two years ago with the same issue, at first i though perhaps it was a bad power supply,but it turned out not to be the case, the console was never delided.

After that model, ive delided many Phats and Slims included,never had any issues with them,even with the 2500 Series,which are hard as nails to delid the RSX,since the litography is so low,making the chip entrance extremely narrow.
Hi nakedsnake thanks for your reply.
So the issue i described is definitely blackout right?
If thats the issue I'll let the fella that I'm taking my ps3 to know thats the problem with it.
Can it be repaired or is it just a waste of time?
I thought the exact same!Thinking it was the psu and its not.
Its really frustrating specially after one that died on me same model 2503b got another one and after deliding the rsx and doing my best not bending the mobo its doing exact same thing! Argh. Now dead in the water with no console to play. :(
Love the ps3 and have tons of games to play but all this is putting me off just because these things seem to be so damn sensitive and sony built them like crap seriously just by the way they glued the chips what da heck!
I hope this can be fixed because getting another one is going back to square 1!
All because ps3s nowadays have to be delided and thermal paste need replaced. :/
 
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Hi nakedsnake thanks for your reply.
So the issue i described is definitely blackout right?
If thats the issue I'll let the fella that I'm taking my ps3 to know thats the problem with it.
Can it be repaired or is it just a waste of time?
I thought the exact same!Thinking it was the psu and its not.
Its really frustrating specially after one that died on me same model 2503b got another one and after deliding the rsx and doing my best not bending the mobo its doing exact same thing! Argh. Now dead in the water with no console to play. :(
Personally ive given up on the 2500 Series, currently i own two 2100 Series, its a step down from the 2500, but so far they have been reliable.

I would suggest a later 4000 Model, they are fairly reliable as well, but for someone who is accustomed to CFW, can be a bit of a pain to work with HEN.

What i would advise its a 2100 or a 4000 Series.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
Personally ive given up on the 2500 Series, currently i own two 2100 Series, its a step down from the 2500, but so far they have been reliable.

I would suggest a later 4000 Model, they are fairly reliable as well, but for someone who is accustomed to CFW, can be a bit of a pain to work with HEN.

What i would advise its a 2100 or a 4000 Series.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
Have you got any for sale?
If this fella cant fix it because im expecting him to say oh nothing can be done the chips fried or the mobos dead or something.
After two 2503b models dying on me both with same problem and my first its like happened with you and i never delided it either.
I would buy one if youre willing and depending where you live (postage costs)from you specially already serviced delided and new thermal paste on it. Im seriously fed up with these problems.
If not ill look for a 2100 model but then again its back to square 1 and im fed up buying ps3s trying to them and breaking on me , i thought about buying a super slim but they also seem to suffer from blackouts and i prefer one that runs cfw for sure.
Thank you for your help.

Edit: hope im breaking any forum rules. Just a guy fed up with 2 broken slims.
 
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Personally ive given up on the 2500 Series, currently i own two 2100 Series, its a step down from the 2500, but so far they have been reliable.

I would suggest a later 4000 Model, they are fairly reliable as well, but for someone who is accustomed to CFW, can be a bit of a pain to work with HEN.

What i would advise its a 2100 or a 4000 Series.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
I also have another question if you don't mind.
On a 4000 model do you have to delid or do they just need a new thermal paste appliance ?
What does it need to done?
This is only to avoid the fact of me grabbing another slim and risking deliding it and then blacking out on me again.
And with han games discs and isos have to be converted to pkgs isnt it?
Does han need to be activated every single time you turn the console on?
Sorry about these simple questions i never worked with han before.
 
The RSX on all 4XXX models has no IHS, the CELL on the 4XXX models uses either thermal adhesive or solder meaning there's essentially no way to delid it.
 
The RSX on all 4XXX models has no IHS, the CELL on the 4XXX models uses either thermal adhesive or solder meaning there's essentially no way to delid it.
Is that confirmed?
Has anybody tried it before?
What if the cpu starts overheating and the thermal paste under it its dry as hell?
At least theres nothing on the rsx which is easy to repaste.
Im only asking these questions before considering buying a superslim.
Oh yeah I forgot you can't install multiman on superlims.
Damn.
 
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Is that confirmed?
Has anybody tried it before?
What if the cpu starts overheating and the thermal paste under it its dry as hell?
At least theres nothing on the rsx which is easy to repaste.
Im only asking these questions before considering buying a superslim.
Oh yeah I forgot you can't install multiman on superlims.
Damn.
It doesn't use thermal paste it uses either solder or thermal adhesive, the temperature advantage from removing the IHS would likely be no more than 2-5C and coming at the risk of permanently destroying the console its not worth it. If you want one that runs very slightly cooler find one of the 42XX or 43XX models as they are much more likely to have the 28nm RSX.
 
It doesn't use thermal paste it uses either solder or thermal adhesive, the temperature advantage from removing the IHS would likely be no more than 2-5C and coming at the risk of permanently destroying the console its not worth it. If you want one that runs very slightly cooler find one of the 42XX or 43XX models as they are much more likely to have the 28nm RSX.
Ok. I'll look into one and see how hen works. Seen that its possible to install multiman with the latest version so hopefully itll play my backed up games else I'll have to convert them to pkgs or isos however it works.
 
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