PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Naked_Snake1995 said:
So ive got some good news and bad news.

Upon testing The Last Of Us, the game as expected would shutoff the machine on the 3/7 min mark, which means more caps needs to be replaced in order to hold with the RSX load, the temperatures brutaly spikes to 73ºCs on the RSX,which points to a high RSX power draw,and with only one NEC replaced, this simply isnt enough.

The testing was preformed on two NEC based systems, the CECHC04 and CECH-2004A, the 2004A didnt present any issue, but remember since the C04 its 13 years older, than the 2004A, the NEC degradation its much higher, thus the reason for the shutdown, Gran Turismo 6 has been resolved,but TLoU still eats NECs for breakfast.

The good news is that 99% of the PlayStation3 Titles are playable,without any hitch, with the exception being TLoU, on my end every question has been answered, i will retire this console from further testing, and use another Model to be more useful Guinea-Pig.
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Dont retire the console, actually we need this console to have all tonkin caps replaced to confirm this theory 100%. until it can play TLOU, its not confirmed in my eyes, its too early to tell.

Guys also can we keep talk thats not NEC tonkin related in this post and start another thread elsewhere? we dont need this post made any harder to keep track of this fix cheers.
 
wrx884 said:
Dont retire the console, actually we need this console to have all tonkin caps replaced to confirm this theory 100%. until it can play TLOU, its not confirmed in my eyes, its too early to tell.

Guys also can we keep talk thats not NEC tonkin related in this post and start another thread elsewhere? we dont need this post made any harder to keep track of this fix cheers.
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Hold up lad, that won't work as much as you think it will , i get it you want to keep the test going, ill make sure they'll keep going, unfortunately it won't be on this console, this isn't my only PlayStation3, but it's the only BC Model i own,and as its working 99% flawlessly.

I quite had enough to disassemble it after so many times, and since its my only Backwards Compatible Console, i consider it like a personal belonging, so touching it for now its out of the question, that's on the NEC side of things.

For now, the Guinea-Pig Model will be a CECHG04 Phat, which they hold no significant value to me, and in case something goes wrong, they are easily replaceable, unlike a Backwards Compatible Model,but if i manage to find another C04 BC Model, ill use it as a Testing Ground, i hate to be that person who "wants" this, or "demands", that, no disrespect, if a person its really interested, it should try it themselves, rather than asking.

It has already been tested, and proven, that all demanding titles will hold up, including Gran Turismo 6, The Last Of Us, was just that exception, which needs further testing, but thats just one title only, for some, The Last Of Us might not mean much, but there are some users who only have one unit, and they still play that game on that NEC based machine.

And besides, why don't you try, also contributing, aside from asking, any form of testing and diagnosis, its crucial for this thread, and greatly appreciate it.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
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Naked_Snake1995 said:
Hold up lad, that won't work as much as you think it will , i get it you want to keep the test going, ill make sure they'll keep going, unfortunately it won't be on this console, this isn't my only PlayStation3, but it's the only BC Model i own,and as its working 99% flawlessly.

I quite had enough to disassemble it after so many times, and since its my only Backwards Compatible Console, i consider it like a personal belonging, so touching it for now its out of the question, that's on the NEC side of things.

For now, the Guinea-Pig Model will be a CECHG04 Phat, which they hold no significant value to me, and in case something goes wrong, they are easily replaceable, unlike a Backwards Compatible Model,but if i manage to find another C04 BC Model, ill use it as a Testing Ground, i hate to be that person who "wants" this, or "demands", that, no disrespect, if a person its really interested, it should try it themselves, rather than asking.

It has already been tested, and proven, that all demanding titles will hold up, including Gran Turismo 6, The Last Of Us, was just that exception, which needs further testing, but thats just one title only, for some, The Last Of Us might not mean much, but there are some users who only have one unit, and they still play that game on that NEC based machine.

And besides, why don't you try, also contributing, aside from asking, any form of testing and diagnosis, its crucial for this thread, and greatly appreciate it.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
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I would say this is only 90% fixed not 99% since u haven't replace all caps to know for sure, and since its too early to tell we cant claim its proven just yet.

Oh dont worry my caps are in the mail so as soon as they arrive i'll be doing these tests so for now, research and encouragement is all i can do till then. It just so happens ur console is a perfect candidate since we all can see the results that its indeed not fixed yet and theres no body else in the thread that has the same issue as urs still atm.

im even going to be doing these on re-balled consoles that didnt pass tests so i'll also be confirming this NEC tonkin fix but also my own re-balling techniques at the same time.
 
I don't have the time to solder more caps right now, but I took my CECHC04 that I have replaced 4 NECs on, which still would not work properly and heated the remaining NECs with a hairdryer (way too low of a temperature to affect solder joints in any way) since it was said that heating them restores them a bit.

Lo and behold, the console sprung back to life. It's been running fine for around 4 hours now - I am fully aware this is a very temporary solution, and the remaining NECs (at least some of them) still need to be replaced.

It does however confirm for me that the caps are indeed the issue and not something else.
 
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@Naked_Snake1995

Hello. Thanks for read my post.

@Naked_Snake1995
Thanks very much for your tutorial.

I will share my experience with PS3.
I had an model CECHK-11.
Exactly with 3 years in moderate use in an day the machine is power off with RLOD. Problem starting the machine and some games.
The PS3 was for repair. 2 reflows in GPU resulting in not fix.
CECHK possibily is the model with the more worst PSU.
I had tested using a Kill Watt and CECHK use 15 watts more power than others models and internally the components are low quality.
Detail is that allways before of machine power off RLOD the watts goes from 125 to 140 watts.
The PS3 has protection if internally in some area is using more energy than normal the PCB send an signal to PSU to power off.
Because of wrong try to fix my machine ( 2 reflow ) my PS3 was damaged and not more power on.

After I acquired an CECHL model.
Again the same RLOD after that I had started to play Gran Turismo 6.
That game just started on time and not was possible start again. Allways RLOD in startup game menu.
After RLOD with Hokuto no Ken Ken's Rage 2 in intermission screen and Ratchet & Clank All 4 One loading the game.
Detail strange that the last game possible to play in my PS3 was GOW Ascension. I had to change the HDMI output from 1080P (GOW Ascension use 720P) to 1080i to play GOW Ascension, but that "temporary fix" was few time and not more start any other game.
The machine was getting worst in each startup at point that not more power on.
Possibily capacitors.

CECHL model Cell use 4 x NEC Tokin 1200 uf and RSX 4 x NEC Tokin 1000 uf.
Tutorial say to use 4 Tantalum 470 uf for each NEC Tokin being 2 tantalum in each side resulting in 1880 uf. The value is high.

I will remove all NEC Tokin (more of 9 years) and thus being i'm worried about total uf value for CELL and RSX. I don't expect to exceed the default value uf.


1 ) Really the Cell need 4800 uf and RSX 4000 uf or both values are the maximum for each one ?
2 ) 1200 uf is total in both sides of NEC Tokin 0E128 or 1200 uf in each side ? If 1200 uf is the total each side is 600 uf ?
3 ) Tutorial say to create an jumper between V IN and V out. The tantalum work to send voltage to ground ? If an jumper bridge is created between both positive point the voltage goes to CELL\RSX directly without help of tantalum ? The images in tutorial show how if the voltage pass directly to CELL\RSX.

https://www.psx-place.com/attachments/cok-001-8-jpg.19122/

4 ) If in each NEC Tokin 0E128 side is 600 the right is 2 x Tantalum 330 uf in each side and in the NEC Tokin OE108 1 x Tantalum 470 uf in each side ?

Thanks very much.
Have a nice day =)
 
So ive got some even more juicy news to "end" this thread, after replacing one more NEC/TOKIN on the RSX side, The Last Of Us is finally playable on the CECHC04 60GB PlayStation3, no more RLOD or YLODs, the game can be completed.

The testing was preformed in two ways, from Prologue to Robert, and then to Downtown until the first Clicker, the PlayStation3 kept his ground,never shuted itself off or present any form YLOD, no overheating involved, the combined time was 45 minutes of gameplay, with the RSX hovering around 71ºCs.

Total runtime combined was 45 min, 15 min more than the previous test of Gran Turismo 6,just to check if everything is in order.

PS:Ill also leave a snapshot of the NECs replaced on the RSX side, for anyone whos intrested, i see i have many questions on this thread, and a few messages on my inbox, unfortunately i will not answer anything today, ill answer them tommorow.

Thank you for your understanding.

@wrx884, thanks for the encouragement mate, just use my last tantalum capacitors this thing!:D:-p

"The red masking tape on the left,are another pair of Tantalum on the CELL"

DSC_0219.JPG
 
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Naked_Snake1995 said:
So ive got some even more juicy news to "end" this thread, after replacing one more NEC/TOKIN on the RSX side, The Last Of Us is finally playable on the CECHC04 60GB PlayStation3, no more RLOD or YLODs, the game can be completed.

The testing was preformed in two ways, from Prologue to Robert, and then to Downtown until the first Clicker, the PlayStation3 kept his ground,never shuted itself off or present any form YLOD, no overheating involved, the combined time was 45 minutes of gameplay, with the RSX hovering around 71ºCs.

Total runtime combined was 45 min, 15 min more than the previous test of Gran Turismo 6,just to check if everything is in order.

PS:Ill also leave a snapshot of the NECs replaced on the RSX side, for anyone whos intrested, i see i have many questions on this thread, and a few messages on my inbox, unfortunately i will not answer anything today, ill answer them tommorow.

Thank you for your understanding.

@wrx884, thanks for the encouragement mate, just use my last tantalum capacitors this thing!:D:-p

"The red masking tape on the left,are another pair of Tantalum on the CELL"

View attachment 20307
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You should also replace all your silicone thermal pads.
 
littlebalup said:
You should also replace all your silicon thermal pads.
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True that mate, i should one day, for now ill leave this ageing beauty to rest, until the next maintenance, ill make sure to replace the thermal pads as well, they are 13 years old at this point.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
This thread has been a really interesting read. I started working on a script for a video I just released on YouTube ("The Misdiagnosis of the PlayStation 3 Yellow Light of Death"), and this thread was definitely something I checked out when I was checking engineering resources and tracing early diagnosis during the scripting stage of the video a month or so ago. I have returned to find that it has reached 25 pages! That is pretty impressive.

I haven't elected to do any work on my CECHA model just yet, but I am happy to see that more people are leaning toward diagnosing their consoles. I hope to restore mine to its former glory once I find the time (and clean off my workbench!)

I will link to the video in this post in case you guys are interested (It does get a bit technical). Hopefully more people will question their attack of the YLOD, and maybe some will find a solution in replacing their NEC/TOKIN caps - something I did end up mentioning in the video.

Really happy to see the back and forth and sharing of information here - even when it gets heated at times - and hope that many a non-functioning PS3 will return a green light once again.

Best of luck to all that are attempting PS3 repairs!

 
Awesome work mate i appreciate the extra effort u went to, to get this done, proof is in the pudding now it can work so it should give u lots of confidence to do it on the A model too. Now the boring part is the waiting game to see how it holds up over time.

Ive been going through a bulk lot of possible candidates for this test so im eager for my caps to arrive, think they are about a week away yet. I have a heap of consoles that had been re-balled as well with replacement GPU's from ebay etc... that didnt work, i was always in a shit fight with these sellers selling crappy GPU's then disappearing when they needed returning so this will be interesting for sure.
 
I have bought 16 X 470 uf, 1 x 220uf and 3 x 330 uf.
I have removed all NEC TOKINs. CECHL was created in 2008. NEC TOKIN have more of 10 years. Time to remove.

i don't want to exceed default uf values.
my attempt will be

CELL
Top
1 > 2 X 470uf one in each side
2 > 2 X 470uf one in each side
bottom
3 > 2 X 470uf one in each side plus 1 x 330 uf.
4 > 2 X 470uf one in each side plus 2 X 330 uf.
Total 4750 uf

RSX
Top
1 > 2 X 470uf one in each side
2 > 2 X 470uf one in each side
bottom
3 > 2 X 470uf one in each side
4 > 2 X 470uf one in each side plus 1 X 220 uf.
Total 3980 uf

I has GOW Ascension (not use extremely CPU-GPU) and GT6 (use extremely CPU-GPU).
Have youtube videos from Naughty Dog using a developer PS3 model displaying Cell SPU usage in UC3 being that CPU never is used 100 % in all cores. Thus being perhaps Cell use less of 4800 uf.
I'm waiting for delivery of tantalums.
I will post result here in next days.

Have a nice day.
 
wrx884 said:
Awesome work mate i appreciate the extra effort u went to, to get this done, proof is in the pudding now it can work so it should give u lots of confidence to do it on the A model too. Now the boring part is the waiting game to see how it holds up over time.

Ive been going through a bulk lot of possible candidates for this test so im eager for my caps to arrive, think they are about a week away yet. I have a heap of consoles that had been re-balled as well with replacement GPU's from ebay etc... that didnt work, i was always in a shit fight with these sellers selling crappy GPU's then disappearing when they needed returning so this will be interesting for sure.
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Looking forward to it, at the moment my eyes are pealed from some A01s to import, just one unit is enough to add to my collection, but thoes import fees from eBay and outrageous postage values keeps me from getting one.

120 quid for postage... yeah right [emoji19]

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Naked_Snake1995 said:
Looking forward to it, at the moment my eyes are pealed from some A01s to import, just one unit is enough to add to my collection, but thoes import fees from eBay and outrageous postage values keeps me from getting one.

120 quid for postage... yeah right [emoji19]

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
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I'm in the same boat, eBay international shipping program is joke tbh... Can't get anything worth while outside Europe (besides China). One Swedish auction site once sold a CECHA01 for £110, that's it.
 
i think we can't remove all tokin i made the test and ps3 don't turn on again we can remove 2 tokin at max i saw an Brazilian technician he said we need at least one nec solder on rsx and cell in the board i think but can i be wrong
 
Fanhais said:
i think we can't remove all tokin i made the test and ps3 don't turn on again we can remove 2 tokin at max i saw an Brazilian technician he said we need at least one nec solder on rsx and cell in the board i think but can i be wrong
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That what i wanted to point out, although technically you can remove all of them completely, if you don't bridge them in the correct order, the PlayStation3 will not turn on, for that ive came out with a new method, a combination of NECs and Tantalums.

If you replace all the NECs with Tantalums just on the Top Side of the board, and leave the original NECs on the bottom, the machine will operate as normal.

I've done that on my C04, but i will have to do more tests on another unit, just with Tantalums, to see how the circuit works, and where to bridge them properly.

There are plenty of lads whom replaced, all the NECs and got they're machines working properly, although they don't explain the bridge, points, so you'll have to see from the video or picture of they're work,but if you look closer for the ones who explain, they always mention and show that the points of bridging is always the positive ones.

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Naked_Snake1995 said:
There are plenty of lads whom replaced, all the NECs and got they're machines working properly, although they don't explain the bridge, points, so you'll have to see from the video or picture of they're work,but if you look closer for the ones who explain, they always mention and show that the points of bridging is always the positive ones.

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Do u have these links so i can take a look and see their work?
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
Sure thing, mostly YouTube videos, hope you understand Portuguese [emoji1787]

Ill compile them and post here a few i saw

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hahaha i may not need to understand what they are talking about just wanna see pics but im pretty certain all we are doing here is connecting them in parallel, so pretty much if we replace them all, we use the wire to connect top and bottom on the same side (GPU side only) so they can form the parallel circuit. otherwise we wont get the total capacitance that we need for them to work.
 
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