PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD
- Thread starter Naked_Snake1995
- Start date
patricksouza472
Member
Delidding is only necessary if your console is still running hot and the fans are too loud, but at this point I'd just go for it
DeadEnd
Senior Member
Correction, I installed a 65 nm RSX, not the 40nm one. I've got one other COK board where I could install a 40nm next, but there is no motivation to do it yet. The few slims I have are in working condition, so I feel bad killing them. I have mentioned earlier, that I could potentially come in as a backup option for people who are interested in this mod (I have still 2 more modchips coming in. The RSX swap is indeed a challenging procedure.). We don't get a Cok-001 in EU that easily, so imagining if one were to purchase a pre-modded console, I suppose you could request one with Cok-002 (partial emulation, like 80gb in US) either from me or Victor. But that's just in theory. I find the reballing process to be quite toxic (literally) and time consuming. So I COULD do the swaps, but I think professionals would do it better...
I think I have seen what you're talking about here in western Europe too. I have done a brief internship at the Electronics Repair/Service center, which used to be run by a good guy "Tom" in a smallish town of 50k people. And not only it became more of a side business if not entirely dead yet , but it seems some of the repairs are simply not profitable anymore. The technology has also been becoming so advanced , that performing component-level repairs can be extremely time-consuming even with the service manuals. And time is money. Not to mention the cost of spare parts, which in our case had to be sourced through EU channels, could easily end up being higher than the price of the device. In the case of a console, of course, all you get is a motherboard, so that is a different story. But for the TVs, we either ordered/found a new board or the whole TV went for scrap/spares. This is the reality, repairing mainboards/motherboards is too time consuming. Tech becomes more advanced and replacing full parts is easier. On a side note, it seems that EU is planning to reduce electronic waste in half by 2030, probably by recycling it better.
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Hi! i have a nightmare with 60gb ps3's (all CECHC04)... okay so i have one that i killed trying to delid the Cpu, scratched it and no image (rip) this one was working 10/10 with any problems with the last of us or other games
bought another one, the guy show me a video that works fine etc etc, the next day i try to turn it on and ylod (rip 2 and scam)
find one working good, opened it, change thermal paste and works perfect but.. in gran turismo 6 it shutdowns at first race with more cars (no matter if the console is at 720p or 1080p or fan at 45% fan with CPU 52c RSX 48c temperatures, in the last of us at the big bulding raining with the 2 girls at 6 floor the ps3 shutdown too, but runs other games perfectly (not tested too much)
this is a BGA problem or is a nec/tokin problem? do I set them all on fire? found another one with faulty Bluraydrive and gonna try luck
The best of all is that I had 2 that worked without problems and I sold one because I thought "why do I want 2" and now the one I kept was the one that delid the CPU and killed it
Thank you!
bought another one, the guy show me a video that works fine etc etc, the next day i try to turn it on and ylod (rip 2 and scam)
find one working good, opened it, change thermal paste and works perfect but.. in gran turismo 6 it shutdowns at first race with more cars (no matter if the console is at 720p or 1080p or fan at 45% fan with CPU 52c RSX 48c temperatures, in the last of us at the big bulding raining with the 2 girls at 6 floor the ps3 shutdown too, but runs other games perfectly (not tested too much)
this is a BGA problem or is a nec/tokin problem? do I set them all on fire? found another one with faulty Bluraydrive and gonna try luck
The best of all is that I had 2 that worked without problems and I sold one because I thought "why do I want 2" and now the one I kept was the one that delid the CPU and killed it
Thank you!
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
Yes, changing the CPU thermal paste is necessary too. Just like changing the oil on your car.
What do you mean by you "want to give this a go?" A delid or the tokin replacement? If tokin, why?
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
That's a shame! Your case does sound like a potential candidate for this mod, temps being good but still getting YLOD in intense games. Before attempting it you should get the SYSCON error codes off it. These codes can indicate tokins (1002) or RSX defects (3034), among other causes. That's the smartest place to start, so you don't waste your time fixing what ain't broke.Hi! i have a nightmare with 60gb ps3's (all CECHC04)... okay so i have one that i killed trying to delid the Cpu, scratched it and no image (rip) this one was working 10/10 with any problems with the last of us or other games
bought another one, the guy show me a video that works fine etc etc, the next day i try to turn it on and ylod (rip 2 and scam)
find one working good, opened it, change thermal paste and works perfect but.. in gran turismo 6 it shutdowns at first race with more cars (no matter if the console is at 720p or 1080p or fan at 45% fan with CPU 52c RSX 48c temperatures, in the last of us at the big bulding raining with the 2 girls at 6 floor the ps3 shutdown too, but runs other games perfectly (not tested too much)
this is a BGA problem or is a nec/tokin problem? do I set them all on fire? found another one with faulty Bluraydrive and gonna try luck
The best of all is that I had 2 that worked without problems and I sold one because I thought "why do I want 2" and now the one I kept was the one that delid the CPU and killed it
Thank you!
Thank you for the answer! I dont have any solder skills but i can try it, the rest i can do it with that program in windows and the cables for taking the error codes but the problem is soldering
Pacorretaco
Member
This can be dangerous advice.
In general, yes of course delidding is always good especially for these old fat systems.
But the way he's saying it sounds like a recipe for disaster.
If your system is having problems and you are trying to find the cause and hopefully fix it... You need to do things one at a time. You only delid when the system is running, but you want better temperatures...
Otherwise you are just making it harder to isolate the problem. Or even stacking new problems on top of the old ones.
Then again, why be a technician when you can be a magician am I right?
Diagnosing is for the losers of course.
(Don't worry, I know it's not your fault. This is the expected spirit of the thread, at least while the original post still has not been rectified)
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patricksouza472
Member
@Pacorretaco I lost the whole context in his question and genuinely thought he was just talking about replacing thermal paste and if he should delid the system, and was like "well, the thermal paste under the IHS is at least 10 years old so yeah, it could use some new, good stuff".
@bazzarre Replacing the NEC Tokin caps is NOT a good idea without proper diagnosing, I blindly did it on my CECHA01 when it was believed to be the ultimate fix and it did nothing. Only then I started diagnosing the board with help from the great @RIP-Felix and @squeept themselves and found out it was just a short and a blown fuse on +12v_main. Make yourself a favor and try the syscon script before doing anything to your board, and if you decide to delid it when it's working, get it done professionally since it's easy enough to damage the chips (especially CELL)
@Pacorretaco thanks for the heads-up and sorry I posted misleading/confusing info. I'll read things through before giving advice to anyone lol
Pacorretaco
Member
Actually for reading the error codes, soldering is not even a requirement.
This is how I like to do it. It's quicker than soldering too as you can imagine.
Done with household items so it's accessible and safe for everyone.
(I recently found jumbo ones around the house hehehehe)
Attachments
Wtf wow nice, i see that "pinzas" works perfectly
do you have the link to buy that cable? Im from spain
Pacorretaco
Member
The cables don't really matter but I think they came included with the adapter. They are common too and they actually have a name. DuPont I believe.
I can post my guide here again. It won't hurt.
This is a small guide to get started. Done by Paco.
I write this in addition to main guide (work in progress) done by db260179.
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/f...syscon-first-steps-and-error-reporting.30100/
I will try to explain step by step, as easy as I can explain it. Really this can be done in 10 minutes.
First of all let's make clear what we are doing:
We are simply running a python script that will let us communicate with the PS3 SYSCON (its brain), using a 3.3v serial (COM) port.
We can thank guys like 'M4j0r' and 'zecoxao' for making this possible in the first place. We are just running their script.
So, what do we need in order to run this script?
Python installed, with additional modules pycryptodome and pyserial
And a 3.3v serial (COM) port
************
*For Windows users (most people) this is what you can do:
-First install python 2.7.18 (you can get from python.org) (newer versions may be supported but 2.7.18 is guaranteed to work)
--When you run the installer, you can check the last box "add to Path environment variable" (it will make things easier; allows you to run python commands from any location)
Once it's installed, you should already be able to run python commands and scripts.
How? Directly from the windows command prompt (which you can open in many ways; I like shift+right click to open cmd window here) you can type:
python script.py
("script.py" is just an example; this should be the name (or full path) of the script you are trying to run)
But our particular script relies on two additional modules. (If you try without them, it will tell you the problem)
But don't worry,
-You can download and install them automatically by typing in the command line:
pip install pycryptodome
pip install pyserial
That's it. Now you should be able to run the magic script. Just specify the COM port and the syscon mode at the end.
-For example:
python script.py COM4 CXR
************
What COM port?
This is where the USB to serial 3.3v adapter comes in handy.
When you plug it into your computer, it should show up in device manager as a COM port. If not, you need to install drivers for it.
This will depend on your particular operating system and dongle.
What is CXR? This will depend on the syscon you are trying to communicate with. SW is for newer (SherWood) Syscons. CXR(F) for the older BGA models
Further details in the main PDF guide
If all is correct, no errors will come up immediately. Even without anything physically connected.
You can then type AUTH, and will get
"Auth1 response invalid"
Of course, to get past this, everything has to be connected and working properly. Even then it may take a couple tries in a row. Eventually you should get:
Auth successful
Which means all is good and you can now run external commands (In capital letters) such as:
ERRLOG GET 00
(If you are still getting "Auth1 response invalid", first simply try again a couple times, turn the ps3 power off and on, if not, swap Rx and Tx wires around and repeat (This is not dangerous, don't worry). Check all the connections etc... (good GND is important too)...It should all work in the end)
That's it for now
*But what serial adapter dongle should I get?
-This is the one I got and it works. 2$ worldwide.
US $1.14 | High Quality FT232RL FT232 FTDI USB 3.3V 5.5V to TTL Serial Adapter Module Mini Port
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vLbCPR
FT232RL is the name of the main IC.
But many others will work too. Get what's most available to you, preferably from local sellers. These are widely used for many other applications. They are COMmon.
You may need to download and install drivers manually If it doesn't automatically appear listed in device manager as a COM port
-Just make sure it's working at 3.3v. (Very important) (To make sure you can check 3.3v with a multimeter between Rx/Tx and GND) If it's 5v or more... It can damage the SYSCON so be careful... 3.3v only!
I write this in addition to main guide (work in progress) done by db260179.
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/f...syscon-first-steps-and-error-reporting.30100/
I will try to explain step by step, as easy as I can explain it. Really this can be done in 10 minutes.
First of all let's make clear what we are doing:
We are simply running a python script that will let us communicate with the PS3 SYSCON (its brain), using a 3.3v serial (COM) port.
We can thank guys like 'M4j0r' and 'zecoxao' for making this possible in the first place. We are just running their script.
So, what do we need in order to run this script?
Python installed, with additional modules pycryptodome and pyserial
And a 3.3v serial (COM) port
************
*For Windows users (most people) this is what you can do:
-First install python 2.7.18 (you can get from python.org) (newer versions may be supported but 2.7.18 is guaranteed to work)
--When you run the installer, you can check the last box "add to Path environment variable" (it will make things easier; allows you to run python commands from any location)
Once it's installed, you should already be able to run python commands and scripts.
How? Directly from the windows command prompt (which you can open in many ways; I like shift+right click to open cmd window here) you can type:
python script.py
("script.py" is just an example; this should be the name (or full path) of the script you are trying to run)
But our particular script relies on two additional modules. (If you try without them, it will tell you the problem)
But don't worry,
-You can download and install them automatically by typing in the command line:
pip install pycryptodome
pip install pyserial
That's it. Now you should be able to run the magic script. Just specify the COM port and the syscon mode at the end.
-For example:
python script.py COM4 CXR
************
What COM port?
This is where the USB to serial 3.3v adapter comes in handy.
When you plug it into your computer, it should show up in device manager as a COM port. If not, you need to install drivers for it.
This will depend on your particular operating system and dongle.
What is CXR? This will depend on the syscon you are trying to communicate with. SW is for newer (SherWood) Syscons. CXR(F) for the older BGA models
Further details in the main PDF guide
If all is correct, no errors will come up immediately. Even without anything physically connected.
You can then type AUTH, and will get
"Auth1 response invalid"
Of course, to get past this, everything has to be connected and working properly. Even then it may take a couple tries in a row. Eventually you should get:
Auth successful
Which means all is good and you can now run external commands (In capital letters) such as:
ERRLOG GET 00
(If you are still getting "Auth1 response invalid", first simply try again a couple times, turn the ps3 power off and on, if not, swap Rx and Tx wires around and repeat (This is not dangerous, don't worry). Check all the connections etc... (good GND is important too)...It should all work in the end)
That's it for now
*But what serial adapter dongle should I get?
-This is the one I got and it works. 2$ worldwide.
US $1.14 | High Quality FT232RL FT232 FTDI USB 3.3V 5.5V to TTL Serial Adapter Module Mini Port
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vLbCPR
FT232RL is the name of the main IC.
But many others will work too. Get what's most available to you, preferably from local sellers. These are widely used for many other applications. They are COMmon.
You may need to download and install drivers manually If it doesn't automatically appear listed in device manager as a COM port
-Just make sure it's working at 3.3v. (Very important) (To make sure you can check 3.3v with a multimeter between Rx/Tx and GND) If it's 5v or more... It can damage the SYSCON so be careful... 3.3v only!
I also partnered with a great passionate youtuber you probably already know (NSC) and there's currently a video preview of this. But there's more to come, it's an ongoing thing.
Cheers
Thank you very very much! Yes i know NSC and just found your video with him, okey so now have to wait for the adapter to arrive and gonna try with 3 PS3 to see what errors they throw
With this we can learn more and can fix quite a few ps3
OK so only yesterday 1 shutdown in TLOU at big building just in the 6 floor sign , today no shutdowns (the game loaded exactly in the same place, near the 6 sign) and fans running at 31-32% with CPU 67 RSX 63, yesterday fan was manual at 45% with a few degrees less but too noisy, all this in TLOU
too much power for the fan and ps3 cant handle it? lol or the motherboard needed heat
too much power for the fan and ps3 cant handle it? lol or the motherboard needed heat
bazzarre
Member
thankyou for all your replies.this is why i ask my questions here!
perhaps i should explain,a friend brought an ageing phat round which hasn't been plugged in for best part of a decade.
she told me it hadn't been working before then and i powered it up and got YLOD.
after reading this thread,in order to "keep myself busy" i offered to have a crack at fixing it with the intention of installing a CFW,
making the fan functions a little more suited(ive read many times about but i have no experience in yet,i use HEN on my superslim)
and sticking in some homebrew for her son.
absolutely nothing is lost if this doesnt work,i just want to dabble so getting any extra equipment like the UART thingy really isn't
worth it.i just want to try it on just capacitors and heat paste and thought i'd check with u guys whether it was worth doing under the lids
or just leaving them before i put it all back together.plus,apart from a bass guitar i built recently i haven't done any challenging soldering in ages! thanks for your thoughts and experience.
perhaps i should explain,a friend brought an ageing phat round which hasn't been plugged in for best part of a decade.
she told me it hadn't been working before then and i powered it up and got YLOD.
after reading this thread,in order to "keep myself busy" i offered to have a crack at fixing it with the intention of installing a CFW,
making the fan functions a little more suited(ive read many times about but i have no experience in yet,i use HEN on my superslim)
and sticking in some homebrew for her son.
absolutely nothing is lost if this doesnt work,i just want to dabble so getting any extra equipment like the UART thingy really isn't
worth it.i just want to try it on just capacitors and heat paste and thought i'd check with u guys whether it was worth doing under the lids
or just leaving them before i put it all back together.plus,apart from a bass guitar i built recently i haven't done any challenging soldering in ages! thanks for your thoughts and experience.
Pacorretaco
Member
Hahaha, yeah don't worry we both made assumptions b73ecause he was not very specific.
You made the good assumption and I made the bad one.
As the saying goes...
Think bad and you'll be right.
Unfortunately I was right it seems.
It's a shame that you think this, but of course now that you know the options, it's your decision after all.
I'd like to be a magician too honestly, and turn the real ~3% chance into the magic 90% chance of capacitor problem on old fats. That way I wouldn't diagnose either.
(And save 2 $)
We are happy to help
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bazzarre
Member
@Pacorretaco i think i'm in the former spirit,ive already had a great time dismantling it.
sorry if this seems sacriligous to some,i do understand that point of view also.
it's how stuff gets discovered.
sorry if this seems sacriligous to some,i do understand that point of view also.
it's how stuff gets discovered.
Pacorretaco
Member
Yes of course. The syscon connection is for more than just reading the error log. (Which means even magicians could benefit from it even if they already know how to fix)
Actually for that... Yeah even I solder hehehe. When I know the console is working and before I close it I may do something like this, and leave it there permanently for easy access.
Of course these are just ideas.
Attachments
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
Start with a delid and repaste. A RLOD due to overheating can be fixed this way. You didn't elaborate about the "YLOD." Does it actually flash yellow, before flashing red? A RLOD will allow you to cancel the error by touching the PWR touchpad, then you can turn it on again without having to to manually flip the rocker on the back. A YLOD wont. And how long from when you press the PWR on and it beeps does it take to beep 3 times? >less than 1s? 1-2s? 2-10s? This narrows down the possible errors.
Sounds like you don't want to spend much money to fix it. The capacitors are expensive ($40). If you already bought them, then which ones did you get? They need to be very low ESR and if you got them cheap on e-bay or aliexpress they are probably not going to work. Also, soldering tantalums in is not as easy as it looks. The motherboard in that area is thick copper without thermal reliefs. So there is no reason to look forward to doing it.
The UART dongle is cheap ($2-$7) and will tell you if you if you need a reball or tokin replacement, among other potential errors.
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