PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

say you needed a heart transplant and they told you "Here we got several hearts, one has a tendency to give you a flat line of death sooner than others, but if you are careful, it might even last a few years, worst case you heat yourself up every now and then. Another is newer and more reliable, it needs a bit of extra work but it tends to fail less. The newest one in practice should be most reliable, but those also fail sometimes." Now go ahead and take the first one because "nothing lasts forever" anyways, right?

Here's the thing. Nobody will have spare hearts to choose from. They all come from a body.

The choice is staying with your original heart which you already had and has a chance of being perfectly fine and just need a cleaning...

Or "skipping the cleaning" and go for a totally innocent younger person and steal their heart just to make yourself think it will last longer than your original heart. (Inside your still old and decrepit body)
When in reality that younger person could have been a smoker too. Eeeeven if the chance is lower.
Not caring to see if both can be alive and happy at the same time.

Instead why not just wait first to be sure that your original heart really can't be saved? And then start actually looking for a different heart if it really is necessary. Which until now it wasn't even an option.
And while you are waiting, you can still be happy playing your games without even being worried.

I understand different people have different priorities but,
This is what you are trying so hard to disagree with?
 
I am going to still disagree with you, and I'm sorry if that triggers you. If it has been proven that the rates of failure in the original RSX are obviously higher than in others, then I am not going to be using that chip. Call it racist or prejudiced, but you are trying to equalize all of the chips, even though they are not all the same. Your logic is that just because some 40nm can fail too, then it somehow disqualifies the whole series of those chips. You easily swipe aside the fact that it fails far less as if it's insignificant, while it is actually a pretty big winning point right there. If you get 2 out of 10 slims with RSX failures but 8 out of 10 BC fats with RSX failures, that would be a great evidence to conclude that the original 90nm is a vulnerable part that would be better off replaced with another that is more durable. If you are replacing it with a potentially faulty 40nm, then yes, you are actually making the situation worse.

The comparison with human body is not at all appropriate. We are talking about a product, not a living thing. But let's do it your way, say you needed a heart transplant and they told you "Here we got several hearts, one has a tendency to give you a flat line of death sooner than others, but if you are careful, it might even last a few years, worst case you heat yourself up every now and then. Another is newer and more reliable, it needs a bit of extra work but it tends to fail less. The newest one in practice should be most reliable, but those also fail sometimes." Now go ahead and take the first one because "nothing lasts forever" anyways, right?

But back to the point, I am trying to figure out how to maximize reliability and minimize the risk of another YLOD . There are in theory several vulnerable parts , if we simply take statistics and see which ones are the most commoon/fastest to fail, we could, in theory, perform preventive maintenance by installing better parts instead of just waiting for another YLOD.
The problem is, that some people here will read this without knowing better and form a destructive opinion on their mind.
Anybody can come and read this, and not everybody is ready to process the information.
Even a smart guy like you, quickly misinterpreted what our hero botakompong was saying, to jump to the destruction.

Imagine then, the guys who go out of their way and pay triple to buy a 19 blade fan when in reality it's the same thing or even a bit worse...
The same guys that are waiting to copy a nec tokin replacement video because they are worried thinking that their machine is about to explode if they don't put 6.3v tantalum...
The guys that are just scared to play their darn games and set the fan so loud that soon their machine will fly out the window...

We are here to help them, really. They just need to relax.
You already have a working machine. Relax and enjoy it. I'm not here to disagree with you precisely either.

I promise I'll relax too. Because it's a good thing. No need to turn it into a bad thing.
 
... if we simply take statistics and see which ones are the most common/fastest to fail, we could, in theory, perform preventive maintenance by installing better parts instead of just waiting for another YLOD.

That is the dangerous thinking that leads people to kill perfectly working consoles. I would never harm a working BC PS3 just because it has a 90nm RSX! I would try to mitigate the heat as much as possible and keep the thing alive as long as I can. When the inevitable YLOD comes, I would first diagnose the problem to ensure it's a 3034 = Reball, and not a 1002 = Tokin, or 3001 = PSU, or any easier thing to fix. Once a reball is needed, then you're faced with a dilemma...
  1. To Reball?
  2. Or Reflow?
Reballs replace the lead-free solder with leaded which has a higher elasticity (they last longer), but it puts the RSX through more thermal cycles at reflow temperatures than a Reflow does. So one could argue that a proper reflow might be gentler on the chip. If the reflow is done properly (cleaned of contaminants, proper flux, lead-free reflow profile on a BGA reflow station), it might last a good long time. Remember, people claiming reflows don't last were using heat guns designed to strip paint and remove wall paper! Obviously they are not getting a proper reflow. However, without removing the chip and actually cleaning oxidized pads physically, the bond is going to be inferior. If the RSX is not damaged too much by the extra reflow cycle, it will last longer. But there is a limit to how many times either a reflow or reball can be done.

So if you are thinking of reballing anyway, why not swap the RSX out for a 65nm or 40nm now that we can? Yes, it's a very difficult process, but besides that, it should in theory last longer than a 90nm reball would because of the decrease in heat generated combined with the over engineered heatsink & fan. I mean, if have to take the RSX off anyway, why not?

If the old 90nm RSX passes the Ohm test, now you have a spare! Those are hard to come by, because until recently they couldn't be replaced. There are more good BC motherboards than there are working 90nm RSX's to populate them with.

  1. Imagine then, the guys who go out of their way and pay triple to buy a 19 blade fan when in reality it's the same thing or even a bit worse...
  2. The same guys that are waiting to copy a nec tokin replacement video because they are worried thinking that their machine is about to explode if they don't put 6.3v tantalum...
  3. The guys that are just scared to play their darn games and set the fan so loud that soon their machine will fly out the window...
We are here to help them, really. They just need to relax.
You already have a working machine. Relax and enjoy it...
I plead guilty on all charges!

You make a good point about bad advice. In addition to the above, I cut a big hole in the bottom of my PS3 thinking it would prevent the YLOD by sucking cool air directly into the console. Instead it causes the PSU to overheat and die sooner! There is no shortage of rumor and bad advice surrounding the PS3!

That was before I knew better...lol. But we all started somewhere.
 
Just want to thank you guys for all your work. Going to get into reading the SYSCON myself. Got 20 broken PS3s myself and I hope to be of some help eventually
That's awesome! We could really use the data to corroborate our own. 20 new subjects and fresh blood! Bring forth the SYSCON codes.

Can't wait!
  1. PS3 Model numbers (Working: CECHA06, CECHH06) (Tried but did not work: CECHE06)
  2. Model of Capacitors you used, or link to product page if you don't know. (aliexpress: 470uF e96)
    https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqkbK3X
  3. Length of YLOD (eg, 2 seconds from PWR on to beeps) (Working unit: around 2sec, Failed to repair unit: 0.5sec, as if something shorted)
  4. Approximate date you first had success with the mods and how long they have been working. (Since May 2020, till now those 2 are still working.)
  5. Have your friends played with the PS3s much since they recieved it? Could you ask them to test it just to verify it's still working. Are they good enough friends to tell you if they stopped working? (They usually play minimum 1 time per week due to current pandemic and all running GT5 and GT6 games.)
Btw, those Schematics and test points are very useful to me. As I have a few "dead" consoles which failed the capacitors replacement method.
I though you might ;) And thanks for that added info, I have your results down in my spreadsheet now. Please update us if one of the consoles dies again. And from now on be sure to post the SYSCON codes with these results as it would be really useful in confirming your diagnosis. Possably in discovering new paths forward for repair.
 
It's a 2-way traffic for such electronic hobby. Only through this way, knowledge and skill are built and pass on.

I just managed to replaced another CECHA06 caps. (Haha again, its blunt method again).

This time round I noticed something burnt on the board, however the board still turns on despite that unknown burnt part.

Could someone correctly identify this burnt part as shown photo?
https://ibb.co/YdttQQC
YdttQQC


That's awesome! We could really use the data to corroborate our own. 20 new subjects and fresh blood! Bring forth the SYSCON codes.

Can't wait!
I though you might ;) And thanks for that added info, I have your results down in my spreadsheet now. Please update us if one of the consoles dies again. And from now on be sure to post the SYSCON codes with these results as it would be really useful in confirming your diagnosis. Possably in discovering new paths forward for repair.
 
I should stop being cryptic and just say what I mean. I forget english is not everyone first language. What I mean is, I think you guys should consider the possibility the artifacting and "self healing" mechanism after the "heat test" are false positives due to thermalmechanical BGA reconnections and warping strain. Those are the key words I used reading through this thread. If I heard anyone say they used a heat gun or hair drier, or had artifacting, or it responded to the pressure test, I would place a "yes" into a "possible BGA defect" column.

He said, he hasn't used the SYSCON in diagnosing. That means he's not checking for 3034 before going about his qualitative troubleshooting process. 200C is just shy of lead-free melting point at 218C. So it warps the board as much as possible without actually reflowing. You will get a false positive if you're not ruling out 3034's first.

This is why we need him to find consoles that meet each step of his "rules" and get SYSCON codes. So we can identify if the "healing" process is nothing more than BGA false positive. Among other vetting purposes.

Interesting theory, are you still talking about the short that he measured between 2 contacts which otherwise show resistance? Can warping actually cause a short ?

That is the dangerous thinking that leads people to kill perfectly working consoles. I would never harm a working BC PS3 just because it has a 90nm RSX! I would try to mitigate the heat as much as possible and keep the thing alive as long as I can. When the inevitable YLOD comes, I would first diagnose the problem to ensure it's a 3034 = Reball, and not a 1002 = Tokin, or 3001 = PSU, or any easier thing to fix. Once a reball is needed, then you're faced with a dilemma...
  1. To Reball?
  2. Or Reflow?
Reballs replace the lead-free solder with leaded which has a higher elasticity (they last longer), but it puts the RSX through more thermal cycles at reflow temperatures than a Reflow does. So one could argue that a proper reflow might be gentler on the chip. If the reflow is done properly (cleaned of contaminants, proper flux, lead-free reflow profile on a BGA reflow station), it might last a good long time. Remember, people claiming reflows don't last were using heat guns designed to strip paint and remove wall paper! Obviously they are not getting a proper reflow. However, without removing the chip and actually cleaning oxidized pads physically, the bond is going to be inferior. If the RSX is not damaged too much by the extra reflow cycle, it will last longer. But there is a limit to how many times either a reflow or reball can be done.

So if you are thinking of reballing anyway, why not swap the RSX out for a 65nm or 40nm now that we can? Yes, it's a very difficult process, but besides that, it should in theory last longer than a 90nm reball would because of the decrease in heat generated combined with the over engineered heatsink & fan. I mean, if have to take the RSX off anyway, why not?

If the old 90nm RSX passes the Ohm test, now you have a spare! Those are hard to come by, because until recently they couldn't be replaced. There are more good BC motherboards than there are working 90nm RSX's to populate them with.

I would never advertise somebody who has no equipment nor experience to attempt such complex procedures. Perhaps, I am not taking into account that a random passerby here is reading this and thinking "Oh so THAT's what I gotta do."

Either way, if you don't want to mess with a working BC board, that is fine. Nobody is claiming you should. The preventive maintenance idea was something that I would do for myself. None of the things I am sharing here are meant to be absolutes or written in stone. I thought it's more about sharing and exchanging ideas. The original topic was NecTokins, it's hard to tell what we are supposed to be discussing here at this point.
 
hard to tell what we are supposed to be discussing here at this point.

So true! I think by now this thread has become so long, technical and complex that we managed to scare away all but the most dedicated (or the opinionated lurkers like me). I think the sharing of experiences is really valuable still. There's a chance that people will grab at random comments and declare it gospel, but again, anyone that has stuck around so far knows better than that (I hope).
 
The point for me is I've convinced myself to get rid off this caps, reball full both cpu and gpu on straight jig, always working with heat on board take measurements on working area with TC. Even if desolder caps, not just desolder with heat gun. The trick is to use both a preheater and top heating will go quicker. I still consider all this should be done about technical people. Anyway every technician will do it in his way how he learned. Its not my mistake if they get it wrong. All ps3 should be reballed for myself.
All those caps aren't used anymore in ps4 so they should dissappear. Not saying cheap tantal won't fail, but better after seeing all kind of strange situations. Theory is so easy, practically is where we should focus more.
Hope you will all get to agree and do each on his way. If someone here needs help and someone offered support I just give opinion but not necessarily ppl will follow my advice.
 
Interesting theory, are you still talking about the short that he measured between 2 contacts which otherwise show resistance? Can warping actually cause a short ?
To your first question, not exactly. I have noticed that the resistance at the +/GND of VDDC (tokins) will increase after a reflow. It'll increase after just cleaning off flux residue (which is mildly conductive). Electromigration inside of the DIE itself will eventually lead to a short. It's possible that heat can realign/warp the molecular structure enough to remove the short. But that's not going to hold. That could very well be the mechanism that explains @botakompong's observation.

For you second question, no I don't see how BGA deformation could lead to a short. However, bumps are much close together and have undefill. If they were not fully dry when reflowed or reballed, it's possible some of the solder could squeeze and bridge, forming a short. It's even possible on reflow that the short could disappear. But it wouldn't be a repeatable thing. Also, I wouldn't expect to see that type of short on an untouched console, but at this point, who really knows what torturous history any given PS3 has been through. From ovens to hair driers, even butter knifes up the fan hole. Every quack solution has been tried!

So I still think electromigration makes the most sense for @botakompong's short/heat test observation.

Basically, there are other factors that could explain why an "apparent" short would disappear after a "heat test." That's why the "heat test" is meaningless. People can interpret it any way they like. Some see it as proof the tokins are bad, others as proof the BGA is bad, others as proof the RSX is dying...and so on. It doesn't prove any one of those things! In fact, in the case of tokins I have already debunked the healing theory. So that's not even possible.

Because it doesn't isolate the problem, the heat test has no utility for diagnostic purposes. In fact it throws a monkey wrench into my DATA. I created a column in my spreadsheet just to keep track of consoles people had applied heat to as part of their "diagnosis." I use it, along with whatever else I can glean from their post, to mark their subsequent positive result with an asterisk...

Eg.
______________________________________
@Dirty_HeatGun_Hairy reported success with the tantalim mod.* First reported working 7/9/2021. Last reported working 7/9/2021.

*Performed heat test thinking it diagnosed bad tokins. Replaced tokins and it worked. Has not been confirmed working at least 2 weeks after initial reported success. Did not specify model or YLOD length. No SYSCON codes to confirm the absence of a 3034, which could rule out a BGA defect. Long term result inconclusive due to the possibility of a false positive from thermomechanical reconnection of a BGA defect. It may have been a genuine fix, but there's no way to know without more information
______________________________________
PS:
I apologize in advance to whomever chooses the username @Dirty_HeatGun_Hairy. Also, please don't make this post a self fulfilling prophecy!

I would never advertise somebody who has no equipment nor experience to attempt such complex procedures. Perhaps, I am not taking into account that a random passerby here is reading this and thinking "Oh so THAT's what I gotta do."

Either way, if you don't want to mess with a working BC board, that is fine. Nobody is claiming you should. The preventive maintenance idea was something that I would do for myself. None of the things I am sharing here are meant to be absolutes or written in stone. I thought it's more about sharing and exchanging ideas. The original topic was NecTokins, it's hard to tell what we are supposed to be discussing here at this point.

That's not who I'm worried about. It's the mass service shops looking for a quick score. To capitalize on the retro gaming surge by buying working systems to ensure a working RSX swap. The ones that'll install a 40nm on a console with a 65nm. The ones selling fear that a 65nm console is in imminent danger of death. The same fear you seem to have to the 90nm. Warranted or not, that fear could lead to people to sending their consoles in for "preventative maintenance" to increase their chance of it working. And a shady shop might only guaranteeing the fix (or price) if the console was working in the first place. That they won't guarantee a RSX swap on a YLOD console, because they won't bother to diagnose and fix that issue first. Say $100 for an RSX swap if the console is 100% working. If the console is YLOD it's an additional $100. That type of BS.

I guarantee that is something people would love to exist. A $200 guarantee to fix their BC PS3 in a way that'll prevent (ostensibly) another YLOD. Yeah, I might even buy that. Problem is I wouldn't trust anyone claing they'd do it.
 
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. The original topic was NecTokins, it's hard to tell what we are supposed to be discussing here at this point.
Yeah... anything goes at this point. The Nec tokin replacement story itself is something that was taken out of context from the beginning. Built more on emotions than facts. Pretty much a meme at this point.
But people keep coming back because it's a very hard thing to stop once the misinformation spreads.

Actually... I think I finally found the unicorn backwards compatible PS3 that seems to indeed have a genuine tokin fault. The thing that had been so difficult to find and demonstrate. And people searched.
Again, this is not what people would even call a "YLOD". This machine was supposed to be needing a blu-ray drive remarry. Certainly not perceived as a YLOD.

It is "shutdown under heavy load" and blinking red...
Registered as error 80 1002 in the syscon. XMB is working fine. I can attach a short video.

Please people stop expecting to find capacitor problems behind a typical ~3second long YLOD on an old fat system.
Even if the machine begins to work again after "replacing the tokins"... It still doesn't mean that they were the problem. It can still work for months but just as a side effect. Just like the legendary hairdryer trick.
 
Actually... I think I finally found the unicorn backwards compatible PS3 that seems to indeed have a genuine tokin fault. The thing that had been so difficult to find and demonstrate. And people searched.
Again, this is not what people would even call a "YLOD". This machine was supposed to be needing a blu-ray drive remarry. Certainly not perceived as a YLOD.

It is "shutdown under heavy load" and blinking red...
Registered as error 80 1002 in the syscon. XMB is working fine. I can attach a short video.
...
Yes, 1002 can have a wide range of YLOD symptoms ranging from 3-5s to only under extreem load. If it gets worse than that it triggers an instant YLOD (<1s) and generates a 3004, an escalation of the PWR failure's seriousness.

If you did get the unicorn, Delid and prove! Then post a vid of temps running GT6 for a while. 1 test with syscon default fan curve and another with defaut webMAN fan mod. I want some side-by-side comparisons to see how well they truly do perform.

***EDIT***
Are there any brand new RSXs? or just renewed?
Sorry I missed your question awhile back and basically answered it here, so...
***
BTW:
I was able to get 2x 40nm RSX's for $15 each. Supposedly they're new old stock, never installed on a console. The listing did not say they came pre-balled. I assumed they didn't and got 2 thinking I might destroy one before balling it correctly (I already destroyed one 40nm attempting to ball it. It's that hard a process to get right, at least for me). But they were pre-balled! That's a HUGE help, as that's the worst part of the reballing process. I assume it's lead free alloy, but who cares. They're 40nm, so that won't matter as much. And from how they were packaged, I believe they are NOS.
NOS RSX 1.jpg
NOS RSX 2.jpg
NOS RSX 3.jpg

Although not pictured above the other one looks identical. Compare those to another one I bough from a guy that pulled it used from a KTE-001 and pre-balled it with lead. This one cost me $25.
Used RSX 1.jpg
Used RSX 2.jpg
Used RSX 3.jpg

It's possible they cleaned/balled them and placed them into a CPU clam shell with ESR foam, but that's a lot of effort to pass them off as NOS. So I think they really were never used. All 3 of them are reading 3.2 Ohms, which is a very good sign they're healthy.

NOS 90nm RSX's were mostly bought up to reball BC PS3's. That's all you could use for the longest time. When the NOS dried up they had to be cannibalized from other consoles, which rarely had serious enough other problems to warrant stealing the 90nm RSX from. So you have situations where shops are stealing them from working G and H models, which aren't BC or worth nearly as much. But apparently there's still NOS of the 65nm and 40nm RSX out there to be had. And for cheap! The mod chip allows them to be used, so finally we can stop the triage body harvest!
 
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Yes, 1002 can have a wide range of YLOD symptoms ranging from 3-5s to only under extreem load. If it gets worse than that it triggers an instant YLOD (<1s) and generates a 3004, an escalation of the PWR failure's seriousness.

If you did get the unicorn, Delid and prove! Then post a vid of temps running GT6 for a while. 1 test with syscon default fan curve and another with defaut webMAN fan mod. I want some side-by-side comparisons to see how well they truly do perform.
You mean tou want to make sure this is not an overheating problem instead of a POW FAIL?
Actually it's possible to see the syscon reporting "inaccurate temperature" of the chips when I asked it about the temperatures after the machine had randomly shutdown and was already in the error state (blinking red, this is key to distinguish from AC power fail or other non-errors).
By "inaccurate temperature" it means it's displaying the last reported temperatures right before the shutdown.
In this case, they were under control. In the 60s which is good temperatures.

(Excuse the crap quality. Improvised video.)


Or you mean something else about the delid and temperature tests? (Btw I don't have GT6 game right now oops)
In any case I already know what I'll do next hehehe (No it's not removing the tokins).
And I don't think it's the PSU either, but I'll also try another one of course to make sure.
 
If you did get the unicorn, Delid and prove! Then post a vid of temps running GT6 for a while. 1 test with syscon default fan curve and another with defaut webMAN fan mod. I want some side-by-side comparisons to see how well they truly do perform.
You mean tou want to make sure this is not an overheating problem instead of a POW FAIL?

No, I mean I want to see the smaller die to prove it's a 65nm or 40nm RSX. That's what you meant by unicorn, yes?

Then once you get the 1002 sorted (you know how), then I want to see it's thermal performance side-by-side with a 90nm console running the same game for the same amount of time. TLOU or something demanding, if you don't have GT6. Although we should all agree on the same game so that we can compare results. @DeadEnd and @vyktormvmpay25 have both agreed to post results from their frankensteins (when they get time).

If all goes well with my install, I should be able to add a 40nm result as well in the next few weeks. I gotta get some summer prep projects done and help my dad setup his first printer. He just got his first computer too. You can imagine how fun it was explaining the mouse should click, it shouldn't squeak (unless it needs oil).

"What's a left click?"
"I am clicking on it..this box just keeps popping up!"
"What's a URL? The site's not secure! What's HTTP? Why do I need HTTPS?"
"Where's the app store so I can download FoxFire!"
"Where's my app drawer. I downloaded zoom, now I can't find it!"

...Sigh, and all of this was over the phone! I have a greater respect for customer service representatives now!

Basically, I'm not sure I can get to it until next week. I have GT6 on PS3 for stress testing and bought TLOU on PS4 to avoid torturing my poor A01s. But if we all agree on TLOU, I can pick up a copy just for testing I guess.
 
TLOU is a bad game to use for temperature tests btw, the problem is there are only 2 points in the game that generates high temperatures (way higher than the rest of the game)
I was talking about it before in some posts, both happens in areas where there is water around
The first area with water is a lake with a fish in a end road in a abandoned city (chapter 2 or 3, dont remember)
The other area with water is a sewer you need to enter in it (at the last chapter or so)

So... you need a savegame near this 2 points of the game... and as far i remember the last checkpoint is not close to them
The good thing is you dont need to do anything in them... just by staying quiet near them the temperatures are going to increase a lot
 
So, do you think GT6 is a better game to bench the system then? Any suggestion on a graphically intense course or auotmatic race we can agree on that'll run for about 30 minutes to heat saturate the console? Preferably something accessible after loading the game, that doesn't require us to play, as it's easier to set a race and let it complete then have to race it ourselves. This is why I like NBALive 2010. You can set the computer to play itself and the gametime can be adjusted so that one game takes exactly 30 minutes or 1hour to complete. But I doubt it's all that taxing.
 
That's what you meant by unicorn, yes?
Ohh... Now I understand the confusion.
Sorry. By unicorn I meant a backwards compatible system (CECH-C) with a genuine tokin fault.
To come full circle with this thread, as this is the original situation that @Naked_Snake1995 had. The machine that started this wonderful thread.

But sure, even if it's rare perhaps it's not even fair to call it unicorn because this is not even what people call a "YLOD".
(It was thought to be working and only need a Bluray remarry)

Instead it is "shutdown under load". The machine shuts off and stays blinking red after a couple minutes of starting an intense game. XMB works fine.
(Error 80 1002)

Now you all know what I did after ruling out the PSU.
I did not even replace any of the poor NEC Tokins as the "tutorial" suggests. Even if they are confirmed to be causing problems.

Modern Warfare 3 is the game I had lying around. And it's not a bad test. System power consumption is over 210watts so we can call it intense.
It would just shutoff in about 3 minutes of gameplay.

Maybe it's soon to tell, but... Not anymore after doing what I did.
IMG_20210610_190123~2.jpg
 

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So, do you think GT6 is a better game to bench the system then? Any suggestion on a graphically intense course or auotmatic race we can agree on that'll run for about 30 minutes to heat saturate the console? Preferably something accessible after loading the game, that doesn't require us to play, as it's easier to set a race and let it complete then have to race it ourselves. This is why I like NBALive 2010. You can set the computer to play itself and the gametime can be adjusted so that one game takes exactly 30 minutes or 1hour to complete. But I doubt it's all that taxing.

Just my 2 cents on this.

In my own experience GT6 is the game I find roots out most issues with PS3 consoles rather quickly. I usually run it for an hour as I have had machines fail even at like the 55 minute mark so I find an hour minimum is best.

I usually use the first proper race you are put into and I park the car on the inside of the corner just before the bridge ( you can see this in a screenshot I posted on the Syscon thread ) I don't know why this corner in particular seems to heat things up or push things but it just does for whatever reason?
 
Ohh... Now I understand the confusion.
Sorry. By unicorn I meant a backwards compatible system (CECH-C) with a genuine tokin fault.
To come full circle with this thread, as this is the original situation that @Naked_Snake1995 had. The machine that started this wonderful thread.

But sure, even if it's rare perhaps it's not even fair to call it unicorn because this is not even what people call a "YLOD".
(It was thought to be working and only need a Bluray remarry)

Instead it is "shutdown under load". The machine shuts off and stays blinking red after a couple minutes of starting an intense game. XMB works fine.
(Error 80 1002)

Now you all know what I did after ruling out the PSU.
I did not even replace any of the poor NEC Tokins as the "tutorial" suggests. Even if they are confirmed to be causing problems.

Modern Warfare 3 is the game I had lying around. And it's not a bad test. System power consumption is over 210watts so we can call it intense.
It would just shutoff in about 3 minutes of gameplay.

Maybe it's soon to tell, but... Not anymore after doing what I did.
View attachment 33663
Well is your choice in the end, for example myself I will exchange all the time.
This is what I have from dyn001. That oxid it was there before I heat, board looks in good shape(not sign of wet environment). If just open top plastic case and don't see something like this usually unit won't have this panic effect.
I'm more into slims so is quite same for nec, also remember that cpu from cok002 mobo with modchip that was failed to start the game. I know is a pain doing full exchange. If I ever touch a phat, price will be 3x more expensive for a 1 year warranty.
140add98a0c3fda779da3a9fec9fbac1.jpg
 
Well is your choice in the end, for example myself I will exchange all the time.
This is what I have from dyn001. That oxid it was there before I heat, board looks in good shape(not sign of wet environment). If just open top plastic case and don't see something like this usually unit won't have this panic effect.
I'm more into slims so is quite same for nec, also remember that cpu from cok002 mobo with modchip that was failed to start the game. I know is a pain doing full exchange. If I ever touch a phat, price will be 3x more expensive for a 1 year warranty.
140add98a0c3fda779da3a9fec9fbac1.jpg
Sure, but you are a professional.
You also reball always.

Luckily I am not doing this proffesionally so I don't have to worry about giving 1 year warranty to myself. If it starts giving more problems, hopefully I will know what to do.

As a first non intrusive step is recommended to everybody before removing the original capacitors. Especially if they are not sure if they actually have this problem or not.

After all even somebody like you doing hundreds of them... Only really found a couple capacitor problems. Not more.

I wonder if my capacitors also look discolored in the edges like yours.

Cheers
 
Ohh... Now I understand the confusion.
Sorry. By unicorn I meant a backwards compatible system (CECH-C) with a genuine tokin fault.
To come full circle with this thread, as this is the original situation that @Naked_Snake1995 had. The machine that started this wonderful thread.

I just re-read you're post and I don't even understand how I could have misunderstood you. My Brain/TOKINs must have lost capacitance.

Nevermind, nothing to see here...Move along...
 
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