PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

solomonbyte said:
hi.

i think i am a member of the partial and very picky YLod

https://www.psx-place.com/threads/4...e-cfw-cex-released.32057/page-115#post-315800

if someone read what i described on this link and can suggest some checks while im reading the 200 pages of this thread.... :)
Click to expand...
Good place to start is connecting to the Syscon so you can diagnose what error your PS3 has. Involves soldering a few cables to the motherboard then connecting to PC and running the Syscon software.
 
Managed to remove my first RSX
C21bMhC.jpg


Not sure if the heat damaged some of the parts on the left.

3zKkfoi.jpg


jEbnuuF.jpg
 
Top right corner the black part has lifted up a bit too and that ball of solder has come out. Do people usually heat with the RSX cover plate installed?
 
Yes I desolder with ihs on top and soldering back without. Point of liquid stage of lead free alloy is 230~235 Celsius measurement with an TC of 70 ohms(210~215 on any TC up to 30 ohms, cheap ones). Soldering back at 205~210 on real TC(5 seconds) (190~195 on cheap TC). When we soldering back with leaded alloy. Those are measured on Jovi RE8500. Understanding your tool with time. Testing different scrap boards will help.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
Yes I desolder with ihs on top and soldering back without. Point of liquid stage of lead free alloy is 230~235 Celsius measurement with an TC of 70 ohms(210~215 on any TC up to 30 ohms, cheap ones). Soldering back at 205~210 on real TC(5 seconds) (190~195 on cheap TC). When we soldering back with leaded alloy. Those are measured on Jovi RE8500. Understanding your tool with time. Testing different scrap boards will help.
Click to expand...
Will keep the lid on when I remove the next one. TC? Thermocouple?
 
moptop219 said:
Managed to remove my first RSX
C21bMhC.jpg


Not sure if the heat damaged some of the parts on the left.

3zKkfoi.jpg


jEbnuuF.jpg
Click to expand...
What happened? Why did you remove the RSX? I thought you only had 1002 and 3004 on this console. That means you should keep going with the tokin replacments.

Did you get a 3034 in a post I missed?
 
i have a question for you guys.

i have a SLIM CECH2004B .

if any game i play is fine, no freeze, no shutdown, BUT, i can manage to reproduce a 3bip fast yellow power off red blinking status on the console by just launching MLB16 and letting the console going back and forth from game demo and main menu, the shutdown will come just after loading and begin of ingame display.

it is a 100% reproductible shutdown on demand.

i played the last fo us, the extension, not single issue. i am completing GT 6, i only had 2 system halt because i idled and found console on black screen with GT logo and dot for loading stopped. kinda same situation i would tell.

another common point from mlb and gt 6 is many data on HDD. HDD/SDD/diff CFW? all stuff verification been made, no issue anywhere.

i'd like advice on that, should i pre order caps to be ready when my 1st crash game occur ?

sony removed tokin from a CELL section they only remain on RSX side for my model..

regards.
 
solomonbyte said:
i have a question for you guys.

i have a SLIM CECH2004B .

if any game i play is fine, no freeze, no shutdown, BUT, i can manage to reproduce a 3bip fast yellow power off red blinking status on the console by just launching MLB16 and letting the console going back and forth from game demo and main menu, the shutdown will come just after loading and begin of ingame display.

it is a 100% reproductible shutdown on demand.

i played the last fo us, the extension, not single issue. i am completing GT 6, i only had 2 system halt because i idled and found console on black screen with GT logo and dot for loading stopped. kinda same situation i would tell.

another common point from mlb and gt 6 is many data on HDD. HDD/SDD/diff CFW? all stuff verification been made, no issue anywhere.

i'd like advice on that, should i pre order caps to be ready when my 1st crash game occur ?

sony removed tokin from a CELL section they only remain on RSX side for my model..

regards.
Click to expand...
Not until you dump the SYSCON errorlog and confirm 1002 errors.

Check link in my signature.

I have found the transition between states, like starting a game, is one of the more unstable operations. As the console ages EVERYTHING loosens up. Processors produce more heat and noise, capacitors, resistors, diodes, voltage regulators... everything degrades. So coordinating state transitions, like starting a game, or stress while playing one, are the times you will first notice it.

There is no reason to suspect the capacitors without an error code.
 
i'll wait bgtoolset update to check error, while the console is fine after all until i do not provoke the crash with mlb16 idling, better enjoy it instead of worrying about a futur that will be in the long run inevitable.
 
solomonbyte said:
i'll wait bgtoolset update to check error, while the console is fine after all until i do not provoke the crash with mlb16 idling, better enjoy it instead of worrying about a futur that will be in the long run inevitable.
Click to expand...
since your console boots, you can use PS3advance toolbox to dump errorlog to a USB drive. Link to syscon tutorial in my signiture. Its one of the first methods I mention.
 
Okay I figured out how to get bringup working. This is the result.


>$ bringup
00000000
# [SSM] Bringup Start.
# [SSM] PS0 ok.
>$ shutdown
00000000
# [PowSeq] Error:A104
# [SSM] PS1 ng.
# [SSM] Cond/Fatal received, msg=24D0.
# [SSM] Fataldown Start.
# [SSM] Fataldown ok.
# (PowerOff State) (Fatal)
NG E00000E0
# [SSM] Clearfatal Start.
# [SSM] Clearfatal ok.
# (PowerOff State)
 
RIP-Felix said:
PS3 Tantalizer - Beta Release (v0.3b)
(Order or Download from OSH Park HERE)​
Notes:
  • If you choose to use this PCB, you are doing so at your own risk! I cannot be held responsible for any damages or loss of life resulting from use of this product!
  • This PCB is designed to make it easier and safer to attach tantalum/MLCC capacitors to your PS3. Removing the NEC/TOKINs and replacing with Tantalum/MLCC capacitors is an experimental mod not guaranteed to fix the problems you are experiencing. You must properly troubleshoot your console to decide if this mod is right for you.
  • You must order a minimum of 3 boards. I recommend ordering 3x (9 Tantalizer boards cost $4.05). That will be enough to replace all the NEC/TOKINs on a PS3 and give you a spare in case there is a defect in the other 8.
  • MLCC pads are meant for 0805 case size.
  • Tantalum pads are for 7.3 x 4.3 x 1.9mm (LxWxH). You can use other types of capacitors that fit this footprint, such as aluminum polymer, tantalum polymer, etc. However, they must be low ESR/ESL processor decoupling capacitors. The PCB takes up 0.8mm of height, so caps need to be low profile (less than 2mm). Each one should be less than 9mΩ ESR, 4.5mΩ ideally. I recommend...
  • You do not need to buy the MLCC capacitors. The 470uF capacitors are enough on their own. However, the MLCC capacitors help to attenuate the higher frequency noise component up to around 2MHz, better mimicking the NEC/TOKIN proadlizer it's meant to replace. This is probably overkill on PS3's with 1000uF tokins. I still recommend using 470uF caps, because 3x 330uF is only 990uF and may not be enough. It's better to have more capacitance than less, but not too much more. The MLCCs are more needed on 90nm CPU/GPU early models (A-H). They have noisier switching VRM and higher load, which requires more decoupling than later models. Use them if your tokins are OE128 models. You probably don't need them otherwise.
  • You must choose 0.8mm board thickness in the options during checkout. This ensures it'll fit underneath the RF shield when you reassemble the console. It also has double thick copper planes for high power applications such as this.
  • You must buy 1.9mm height capacitors or smaller. This ensures it'll fit underneath the RF shield when you reassemble the console.
  • You can download the Gerber files from OSH Park if you perfer to have another board house manufacture your Tantalizers. Just be sure they know the edges are castellated and that you need 0.8mm board thickness.
Pictures:

91a27af613abe8ac4c02d9f732bce01f.png
8dbeab0b66a3afbd4e39d005a728245b.png


Note: The following pictures are of v0.3a I made with 7x MLCC pads. I decided to remove C10 because there was too little clearance between +/GND. v0.3b linked above will not have 7 MLCC pads. It has 6, but is otherwise identical to the pictures below.

View attachment 35177 View attachment 35178
View attachment 35179 View attachment 35180
Discussion:
I received the alpha revision and it looks good, except that the MLCCs are too close to the positive rail for comfort IMO. SO I have revised it to only have 6 pads. I am confident there is enough room now. I got the castellated edges right this time and they wick the solder really easily along the entire edge of the slot.

I have not attempted to use them yet, so they are untested on console. The next step is to populate and test. I have opened the beta, so anyone can DL or order them from OSH Park. But you should know they are untested.

Unlike the last beta, these came from the factory pretty well finished. I didn't need to trim them much. A castellated slot proved to be much better.

It's fine if you don't want to participate in the beta, potentially burning down your house or damaging your PS3. Once others and I have installed it and confirmed they work, I'll update the listing on OSH park with the v1.0 monker, indicating a fully tested/working PCB.
Click to expand...

Can i just say, THIS is pretty awesome and i cant wait to see more of it.
Oh and im actively keeping an eye on this post for updates too:
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/r...s-replacement-ylod.25260/page-204#post-301356

Thanks for the hard work and good reads.
 
raidriar said:
Would it be better to try and get new NECS?
Click to expand...
If you are able to properly install them, yes they are superior. However, new old stock tokins are still old stock. They do degrade just sitting on the shelf, but should be fine for years to come. Just make sure you actually can install them. It seems easier than it actually is. You will need a preheater in addition to hot air, or else you'll damage something. The GND plane on PS3 is no joke.
 
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