PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[ElBrucio]

1001 is just an unexpected shutdown, which is expected since the console was on at the time the YLOD occured. You'll get 1001 errors if you hard shutdown the console with the back switch.

You probably just need to keep going with the tokins replacments. What caps are you using?

Bought these off digikey: F930J477MNCAJ6 - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kyocera-avx/F930J477MNCAJ6/7567008

ESR 0.3 ohm per the datasheet

 

[RIP-Felix]

Bought these off digikey: F930J477MNCAJ6 - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kyocera-avx/F930J477MNCAJ6/7567008

ESR 0.3 ohm per the datasheet

Ouch, those are too high. 300 mOhms each is not good. They need to be under 9mohms each.

 

[ElBrucio]

Ouch, those are too high. 300 mOhms each is not good. They need to be under 9mohms each.

Thats unfotunate to hear... do you have some you can recommend? I guess i will swap em out and see if that fixes the issue?

Also an update, i was able to play Bioshock for about 1 hr without issues, however Portal 2, LBP and GoW3 all crash within 5mins... does that point in any direction or just replace caps again?

 

[Djudju]

The Syscon error log from your PS3 will help you identify the problem.[/QUOTE]

Hi @Djudju ...to get your PS3's Syscon error log you don't need CFW or HEN, infact you don't even need the PS3 to turn on. Here is Felix's guide on how to do it. Start at "If your console doesn't turn on" ...have a read through the guide, opening all the "Spoiler" tabs and you will get a good idea of what it's about:-

The Syscon error log from your PS3 will help you identify the problem.

Hello Workz, thank you for your advice. Going through syscon with a console off seems complicated for me, too bad, I'll try to install a CFW despite the console is not completely stable, we'll see later. Otherwise there is Elbrucio who posted a message and I have the impression that we have more or less the same problem. On games that use fewer graphic details (virtual tennis 2009) it works, but with Motorstorm or Uncharted, it cuts. if it really heated up after being cut off, I don't think I could start a (virtual) game right away without there being any cuts, right? Thank you

 

[Timbo9876]

I have discovered that if you piggyback some tantalum capacitors onto the top side of the board (assuming yours is backwards compatible) that this prevents unexpected shutdowns. I tested this with several consoles and all would shut down when playing TLOU after a few hours of game play.

Now it plays for over 6 hours with no shutdowns, and this was the case with 3 consoles. I had a failure (4th one i did) on one I suspected had a recovered GPU and when I piggyback the caps it went YLOD. Not sure why this is however I have had this happen in the past when I have heated the GPU to get a boot then tried to swap the NEC Caps and this again resulted in YLOD. So it seems if you have heated up the chips, old style reflow method, and you have recovered a failed GPU the tantalum caps result in failure.

The 3 it was successful on all had GLOD issues and this was recovered with pressure. I have had no failures with this pressure mod and the addition of the tantalum caps keeps the system stable.

In the link below you will see I add 2 to the CPU and 1 to the RSX. This prevents unexpected shutdowns and has worked on all three consoles, just don't do it if you suspect the GPU has been recovered.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[Djudju]

I have discovered that if you piggyback some tantalum capacitors onto the top side of the board (assuming yours is backwards compatible) that this prevents unexpected shutdowns. I tested this with several consoles and all would shut down when playing TLOU after a few hours of game play.

Now it plays for over 6 hours with no shutdowns, and this was the case with 3 consoles. I had a failure (4th one i did) on one I suspected had a recovered GPU and when I piggyback the caps it went YLOD. Not sure why this is however I have had this happen in the past when I have heated the GPU to get a boot then tried to swap the NEC Caps and this again resulted in YLOD. So it seems if you have heated up the chips, old style reflow method, and you have recovered a failed GPU the tantalum caps result in failure.

The 3 it was successful on all had GLOD issues and this was recovered with pressure. I have had no failures with this pressure mod and the addition of the tantalum caps keeps the system stable.

In the link below you will see I add 2 to the CPU and 1 to the RSX. This prevents unexpected shutdowns and has worked on all three consoles, just don't do it if you suspect the GPU has been recovered.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Hi Timbo, thank you for your help, great, I was just looking for a video on the piggy back technique and yours is very interesting. In your opinion, can I scratch the motherboard a little next to the positive pole to have a little more space? thx

 

[Timbo9876]

Hi Djidju,

The reason I don't have them right next to the tokin is because the heat the NEC tokins omit. However I haven't tried this any other way so it may well be okay. As long as you don't scratch any traces you should be fine.

All I can say with certainty is the way I have done it works, I'm actually testing another console as we speak, this one has the caps, in fact it was the one shown in the recording. I am currently experimenting with liquid metal, I believe the heat spreaders are copper not aluminium so there will be less degradation from the liquid metal (liquidmetal spreed on die under heat spreader). This console has currently been running for 2 hours 10 minutes playing TLOU and the temps are great with no sign of a shutdown. (See pic)

The caps do make contact with the shell, if you use naked snakes pressure mod on the CPU this helps to create more space for the tokins on the CPU side, or use low profile tantalum capacitors.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[Djudju]

Hi Djidju,

The reason I don't have them right next to the tokin is because the heat the NEC tokins omit. However I haven't tried this any other way so it may well be okay. As long as you don't scratch any traces you should be fine.

All I can say with certainty is the way I have done it works, I'm actually testing another console as we speak, this one has the caps, in fact it was the one shown in the recording. I am currently experimenting with liquid metal, I believe the heat spreaders are copper not aluminium so there will be less degradation from the liquid metal (liquidmetal spreed on die under heat spreader). This console has currently been running for 2 hours 10 minutes playing TLOU and the temps are great with no sign of a shutdown. (See pic)

The caps do make contact with the shell, if you use naked snakes pressure mod on the CPU this helps to create more space for the tokins on the CPU side, or use low profile tantalum capacitors.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

what value should I use for the multimeter to check if my capacitor is well welded? thx

 

[Timbo9876]

You just need to check it's not shorting and do a push test.

See pic for my multi meter setting. Normally you will get a reading between 1 and 4, so a reading of 2.8 for example is fine.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[Djudju]

You just need to check it's not shorting and do a push test.

See pic for my multi meter setting. Normally you will get a reading between 1 and 4, so a reading of 2.8 for example is fine.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[Djudju]

You just need to check it's not shorting and do a push test.

See pic for my multi meter setting. Normally you will get a reading between 1 and 4, so a reading of 2.8 for example is fine.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Thank you very much Timbo, but I have a lot of trouble joining the capacitor to the positive pole.
I have a negative value which then changes to positive. If my weld is not good what value should I have? I only put a tantalum capacitor, I have the impression that the cut is slightly delayed.
I'm sorry but I'm a beginner in multimeter

 

[Timbo9876]

Hi,

Tin the capacitors, put a small amount of flux on the positive rail, now add a small amount of solder to the positive rail.

Now position the capacitor on the positive rail, make sure its only touching the positive rail and not the negative. Now apply solder to the back of the capacitor on the positive rail. This will melt the solder underneath the capacitor and create the bond to the positive rail. Now do the same with the negative that you created.

I'm new when it comes to using the multimeter, once you have connected the capacitor you should get a reading from the capacitor you just installed and the NEC tokins. If it's OL then you have a short.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[Djudju]

Hi,

Tin the capacitors, put a small amount of flux on the positive rail, now add a small amount of solder to the positive rail.

Now position the capacitor on the positive rail, make sure its only touching the positive rail and not the negative. Now apply solder to the back of the capacitor on the positive rail. This will melt the solder underneath the capacitor and create the bond to the positive rail. Now do the same with the negative that you created.

I'm new when it comes to using the multimeter, once you have connected the capacitor you should get a reading from the capacitor you just installed and the NEC tokins. If it's OL then you have a short.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

thank you timbo, it's very nice of you, I'll try tomorrow, thank you again

 

[ElBrucio]

Thats unfotunate to hear... do you have some you can recommend? I guess i will swap em out and see if that fixes the issue?

Also an update, i was able to play Bioshock for about 1 hr without issues, however Portal 2, LBP and GoW3 all crash within 5mins... does that point in any direction or just replace caps again?

UPDATE:
1. Replaced second TOKIN on the RSX same issues 1001 error
2. Replaced 1st TOKIN on CELL, no errors, played about 30mins of GoW3 with no issues.

If I have further issues I will try to get caps with lower ESR.

 

[RIP-Felix]

UPDATE:
1. Replaced second TOKIN on the RSX same issues 1001 error
2. Replaced 1st TOKIN on CELL, no errors, played about 30mins of GoW3 with no issues.

If I have further issues I will try to get caps with lower ESR.

That's a useful report thx!

Please be sure to update later, letting us know how you get on. Especially after the 2 week mark.

 

[Gabriel2Silva]

Can anyone check my SYSCON log?
It's a 4011B Super Slim I bought in 2013. I replaced its thermal paste and cleaned the internals some years ago, then it died some months later.
It had a bad HDMI port, or at least I think it did, because it had random signal dropping/static on screen/etc. Note that it did not resemble GPU artifacts in any way, it was probably just an HDMI port issue. Because of this, I've been using this PS3 with component cables on a CRT monitor. It never had any issues with the MultiAV output.

Months after cleaning and repasting the system, it died out of a sudden when I was watching some videos. It halted with an instant black screen and a VERY LOUD grinding noise that sounded like a stuck fan. LED was green, but it was completely stuck, as pressing the button didn't do anything. I had to pull the power cable. After plugging the power cable once again, the red LED popped up but with no signs of life. Pressing the power button made the console jump from red to black (NLOD?) instantly.

Years later, I decided to plug it again today to see if it worked and, to my surprise, it did! So I quickly launched PS3 Advanced Tools and dumped its SYSCON log. I know for a fact that if I keep it running it'll crash and refuse to work for some days or weeks again.

Firmware Version: 4.87 (build 50723)
Platform ID: CokM10
Product Code: 00 88
Product Sub Code: 00 0D
Hardware Config: 4E00FFFF1603BC2C
Syscon Fimware Version: 098F.0000000000000000 (EEPROM: 0000000000000000)

Bringup Count: 1664, Shutdown Count: 1607
Runtime: 173 Days, 5 Hours, 35 Minutes, 27 Seconds

Error Log
01: A0313032  Sun Jan  1 00:20:26 2006
02: A0233020  Sun Jan  1 00:19:33 2006
03: A0801701  Sun Jan  1 00:14:31 2006
04: A08014FF  Sun Jan  1 00:14:31 2006
05: A0203010  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999
06: A0233020  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999
07: A0233020  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999
08: A0233020  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999
09: A0233020  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999
10: A0233020  Sun Jun 10 05:51:14 2012
11: A0313032  Sun Jun 10 05:50:40 2012
12: A0801701  Sun Jun 10 05:50:14 2012
13: A08014FF  Sun Jun 10 05:50:14 2012
14: A0802022  Wed Mar 21 06:11:59 2012
15: A0802022  Wed Mar 21 06:04:17 2012
16: A0802022  Wed Sep 28 13:19:51 2011
17: A0802022  Wed Sep 28 13:19:49 2011
18: A0802022  Sun Sep 25 10:41:30 2011
19: A0802022  Sun Sep 25 10:41:28 2011
20: A0802022  Fri Jul  8 01:38:16 2011
21: A0802022  Fri Jul  8 01:38:14 2011
22: A0802022  Sun May  8 16:11:12 2011
23: A0802022  Sun May  8 16:03:37 2011
24: A0802022  Sun May  8 15:50:27 2011
25: A0802022  Sun May  8 15:49:15 2011
26: A0802022  Sun May  8 08:11:11 2011
27: A0802022  Sun May  8 07:42:23 2011
28: A0802022  Sun May  8 06:16:34 2011
29: A0802022  Sun May  8 06:11:26 2011
30: A0802022  Sat May  7 15:41:51 2011
31: A0802022  Sat May  7 15:17:55 2011
32: FFFFFFFF  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999

Thanks!

 

[sandungas]

It's a 4011B Super Slim I bought in 2013

Platform ID: CokM10

Product Sub Code: 00 0D

Please can you tell the exact motherboard name ?, the CokM10 is an unknown Platform ID

Edit:
And the hdd from factory had a size of 250GB, right ?

 

[Argonn]

Hi Guys,
I found a video on Youtube to fix "NEC Tokin YLOD"
Is it a good fix?

Video :

Thanks !

 

[microsed]

harika bilgiler teşekkürler seni seviyorum

English:
great information thanks i love you

 

[Cypha]

Found these caps in a limited edition ps3 ryu ga 3 not sure if this has been found or not but these dont have nectokin writen on it also the console was never opened only opened it as arrive damaged but still works (motherboard is ver-001) trying to but every type on the limited editions to see any differences