PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[Djudju]

@Djudju ...bro these AVX Tantalums are no good for the job, the ESR and voltage is too high.

For CELL you need these Panasonic (2R5TPE470M7) 470uF, 2.5V, 7mΩ@100kHz ESR ...here:-
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Tantalum-Capacitors_PANASONIC-2R5TPE470M7_C147773.html

Or because on your RSX the NEC / Tokins are only 1000uF (instead of 1200uF)...

For your RSX, Panasonic (EEFSX0D331E4) 330uF, 2.5V, 4.5mΩ@100kHz ESR ...here:-
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail...Capacitor_PANASONIC-EEFSX0D331E4_C427165.html

12 x 470uF (3 x 470uF per NEC Replacement) for the CELL

16 x 330uF (4 x 330uF per NEC Replacement) for the RSX

(or for RSX you can also use the 470uF like the CELL = 3 x 470uF per NEC Replacement)

EDIT: Also that Youtube video is no good, because if the NEC is dead, putting 1 x 470uF (piggy-back) per NEC is not going to solve the problem, because it wants 1000uF or 1200uF per NEC.

Ok Workz, thx. panasonic are hard to find in france. It's a shame I received these today: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...o2fra&spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.3d515e5bLJ4IWc Maybe they're better than the ones I put (6,3v)
right?

 

[Workz_777]

Ok Workz, thx. panasonic are hard to find in france. It's a shame I received these today: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...o2fra&spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.3d515e5bLJ4IWc Maybe they're better, right?

Oh i see, yes those ones you have received today are better than the AVX ones. They should do the job, so you need 4 of these for each NEC you replace.

And because you can't know which NEC is bad, it's better to replace them all now you have started. So 4 x 330uF Tantalums for each NEC you replace. In total 16 x Tantalums for the CELL and 16 x Tantalums for the RSX (32 x Tantalums in grand total). Then test to see if this gives you many hours without problems for playing games, and also if the HDMi works again, because without enough (clean) power it might be affecting the HDMi video also.

So leave the HDMi port for now, until you have changed all the NECs, it could work again after that.

 

[Djudju]

Oh i see, yes those ones you have received today are better than the AVX ones. They should do the job, so you need 4 of these for each NEC you replace.

And because you can't know which NEC is bad, it's better to replace them all now you have started. So 4 x 330uF Tantalums for each NEC you replace. In total 16 x Tantalums for the CELL and 16 x Tantalums for the RSX (32 x Tantalums in grand total). Then test to see if this gives you many hours without problems for playing games, and also if the HDMi works again, because without enough (clean) power it might be affecting the HDMi video also.

So leave the HDMi port for now, until you have changed all the NECs, it could work again after that.

16 for the cell? You told me in your previous message that 3 per nec (470) was enough? So 12 would suit me because otherwise I don't have enough . Anyway thank you very much

 

[Workz_777]

16 for the cell? You told me in your previous message that 3 per nec (470) was enough? So 12 would suit me because otherwise I don't have enough . Anyway thank you very much

Yes because the link you shared for the Tantalums you ordered are 330uF.

So if you have 330uF you will need 4 x 330uF per NEC replacement. But if you have the 470uF ones - then you only need 3 x 470uF per NEC replacement.

 

[Djudju]

Yes because the link you shared for the Tantalums you ordered are 330uF.

So if you have 330uF you will need 4 x 330uF per NEC replacement. But if you have the 470uF ones - then you only need 3 x 470uF per NEC replacement.

Ah yes, sorry I had not seen that the link only displayed the 330uf but I also have the same in 470uf.

 

[Workz_777]

Ah yes, sorry I had not seen that the link only displayed the 330uf but I also have the same in 470uf.

Oh cool, so yeah 3 x 470uF per NEC replacement. Looking forward to seeing your results.

 

[Djudju]

Oh cool, so yeah 3 x 470uF per NEC replacement. Looking forward to seeing your results.

Hello everyone,
I started replacing tantalum 6.3 with 2.5 on the rsx. Result: it doesn't work anymore, I checked my welds and despite that it still doesn't work. to be continued

 

[Workz_777]

Hello everyone,
I started replacing tantalum 6.3 with 2.5 on the rsx. Result: it doesn't work anymore, I checked my welds and despite that it still doesn't work. to be continued

So you replaced everything with the Tantalums, both sides? (12 x 470uF for CELL, and 12 x 470uF for RSX) ? ...please send a photo, because it's easy to have a short.

For me the best way is... to solder the negative side of the tantalum to the middle aread (this is also ground) see image below:-

2 options how to arrange the Tantalums, you could use electrical tape instead of the Kapton tape in the image.

 

[Djudju]

So you replaced everything with the Tantalums, both sides? (12 x 470uF for CELL, and 12 x 470uF for RSX) ? ...please send a photo, because it's easy to have a short.

For me the best way is... to solder the negative side of the tantalum to the middle aread (this is also ground) see image below:-

2 options how to arrange the Tantalums, you could use electrical tape instead of the Kapton tape in the image.

View attachment 36943

Hello Works, thank you for your response, in fact I unsoldered the caps (2.3) to put back the 6.3 v. I resolder several times (5 times), and now it doesn't work at all, direct YLOD. I only removed the circled caps. Those of the cell I have not touched. I don't understand, I may have damaged something else?
Edit: I specify that I have not yet touched the nec tokins on the other side of the motherboard since before it still worked a little (no more crashes on motorstorm)

Maybe that scratch was fatal?

 

[Workz_777]

Hello Works, thank you for your response, in fact I unsoldered the caps (2.3) to put back the 6.3 v. I resolder several times (5 times), and now it doesn't work at all, direct YLOD. I only removed the circled caps. Those of the cell I have not touched. I don't understand, I may have damaged something else?
Edit: I specify that I have not yet touched the nec tokins on the other side of the motherboard since before it still worked a little (no more crashes on motorstorm)

Maybe you have a short on the tantalums, please can you post a photo of the replacements you made, so we can look for any short circuits, because it's very easy done.

 

[Timbo9876]

Has your console been repaired before? I know from experience that if a machine has a recovered RSX (heat applied to the dye to bring it back to life) then any work done with tantalum caps can result in a YLOD. I have no idea why this happens but I can tell you that on several consoles that I knew had the RSX recovered the moment I added tantalum caps nearly in every case the console would fail.

If anyone has a logical explanation to why this happens it would be great to have some answers.



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[Djudju]

Has your console been repaired before? I know from experience that if a machine has a recovered RSX (heat applied to the dye to bring it back to life) then any work done with tantalum caps can result in a YLOD. I have no idea why this happens but I can tell you that on several consoles that I knew had the RSX recovered the moment I added tantalum caps nearly in every case the console would fail.

If anyone has a logical explanation to why this happens it would be great to have some answers.



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Hello Timbo, yes it has already been repaired since I had already changed the nec tokins with tantalum but it still went out but after 30min-1h, so I wanted to replace the caps with others (2.5v) but now it's direct ylod in 2sec.

 

[Timbo9876]

You need to check the Syscon codes again if you haven't already done so.

You could spend ages on the caps only to find you have a dead RSX.

Sounds like you need a reball or a Frankenstein

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[RIP-Felix]

So guys. I haven't checked this thread in awhile. I was hoping others would step up and help out. I don't have much time, but am noticing a few bad tendencies you need to correct if any sort of forward progress is to be made.

Anytime you make a change to the console and it results in a YLOD there will be an error code. You need to post that error code with your resuts. Do not simply say it didn't work.

You may as well give up if your not going to use an analytical approach to solving the problem. You'll just spin around in circles trying the same thing over and over again.

 

[Timbo9876]

Hi Felix,

I got my USB TO TTL FT232RL yesterday and I will be doing a diagnosis on around 30 PS3 backwards compatible motherboards. I understand I need 3 wires connected to the motherboard, one being ground and the other 2 for the read I guess. I wanted to use my laptop and python to read the codes. I know your busy however if I run into any issues I will be asking for help!

Once I have done the diagnostics I will be looking into getting a rework station, do you have any suggestions as to a good setup for doing reball work?
This is obviously in the future and it's great I have plenty of MB's to to try lifting the CPU and RSX chips off. Obviously I would like to preserve as man as possible!

Thanks for all your input into this site, I also watch computer booter and I know you offer him a lot of guidance with the Frankenstein projects he has been working on



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[Workz_777]

Hi Felix,

I got my USB TO TTL FT232RL yesterday and I will be doing a diagnosis on around 30 PS3 backwards compatible motherboards. I understand I need 3 wires connected to the motherboard, one being ground and the other 2 for the read I guess. I wanted to use my laptop and python to read the codes. I know your busy however if I run into any issues I will be asking for help!

Once I have done the diagnostics I will be looking into getting a rework station, do you have any suggestions as to a good setup for doing reball work?
This is obviously in the future and it's great I have plenty of MB's to to try lifting the CPU and RSX chips off. Obviously I would like to preserve as man as possible!

Thanks for all your input into this site, I also watch computer booter and I know you offer him a lot of guidance with the Frankenstein projects he has been working on.

Well if money is not a problem, then Vic and Booter both use a Jovy-8500 rework station, i'm not sure what country you are in, it's not easy to find one though, and for sure not cheap, although i hear Booter got his for a bargain compared to the original price they go for.

I did find a couple eBay sellers, who were selling used Jovy-7500 here in the UK, and the price was actually not bad, although my piggy bank was empty and they sold really fast (probably because the price was good) but Booter said the Jovy-7500 is too small for PS3 boards. What do you think @vyktormvmpay25 about getting a used Jovy-7500 (for people with low budgets like me) ...is it too small?

 

[Timbo9876]

I wanted to spend about one thousand pounds, yep I'm from the UK, Surrey to be precise. For this I would want a rework station and everything that's required to reball. If that's not enough I will be happy to save up more because I want to give myself the best chance of success, this will help to pay for the equipment and hopefully make a profit on motherboards I had written off for parts.

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[Workz_777]

I wanted to spend about one thousand pounds, yep I'm from the UK, Surrey to be precise. For this I would want a rework station and everything that's required to reball. If that's not enough I will be happy to save up more because I want to give myself the best chance of success, this will help to pay for the equipment and hopefully make a profit on motherboards I had written off for parts.

That should be enough for a good one, @vyktormvmpay25 ...could you recommend some good rework stations for @Timbo9876's budget and also for me, because i'm poor lol something around £200 - £400 i don't mind (very) used condition. The Jovy-7500 on eBay (used) before they sold were £275 and the other one was £365.

 

[vyktormvmpay25]

Pff guys is not just rework station, think of rest, microscope and jig to work on straight position, and time to work on them. I'll suggest first take some practice if willing to reball, also check New Retro Repair is there, he did not fail to reball on last video I've advised, it may be just jig he needs to create.
He is in UK as well he understands well electronics and I will recommend him or Phill (Thecod3r) if he is willing to help. Otherwise I will touch from now only cok002 untouched boards or at least over 2,5 ohms cell vddc resistance. I can't save 90nm rsx.
Plus is a pain, I can avoid import taxes, I have my cheap way but even like that shipping and return postage cost will be 100 pounds. Shame even in Germany is same if 7 kg. I sent in UK 4 kg with 50 euro with board fixed but I said price is 5 pounds for it.
In UK I've sent 4kg only case bottom with board assembled on radiator.

 

[Timbo9876]

I have 3 dead boards I can work on and 25 motherboards with various faults ranging from GLOD to YLOD. So once I get all the equipment I need I would first work on the 3 boards that I know are completely dead and then move onto the other 25 boards that could potentially be saved. Any that I save I can then make up a case and power supply and by using noBD custom firmware remarry a blu-ray drive to the board. Obviously I understand none of this is easy but I'm willing to put in the time as these consoles are becoming harder to find.

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