Works for me if you do this, I use PCBway for everything anyway. They made Soulkilla's with no issues.
PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD
- Thread starter Naked_Snake1995
- Start date
Works for me if you do this, I use PCBway for everything anyway. They made Soulkilla's with no issues.
Volodymyr malyshev
Member
Hello, guys! I've got a 2004A 9B Slim, and it has delayed YLOD (5-6 sec.). After 8-10 attempts of starting it finnaly gives an image. After staying some time warm, I updated it to 4.88, put CFW Evilnat, checked "custom tools" and found it overheating. Console has never been cleaned. I changed the thermal grease on the top of IHS of RSX and CELL, cleaned the dust. It helped only a bit. Then I took off the IHS from RSX, put new grease on the chip. Only after this the temperature is ok. But YLOD still remains, actually, when I launch some heavy games like GoW3, Killzone 2/3. I played GoW1/2 for many hours, and console still stayed turned on with normal temperature of RSX in XMB and during playing GoW1/2 like 66/68*C (CELL usually has 63/65*C). Sometimes it gives some minor "artifacts" on the screen, islike twinkling. Sometimes its "freezing" after launch the games (when try to press power button it gives 3 beeps). The HDD is ok, doesn't have bad blocks etc. Yesterday I found an explaining how to check SYSCON error codes. I've already read many pages from this topic, so, according to "https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Syscon_Error_Codes#1002_.28Power_RSX.29" problem is tokins of RSX_VDDC powerline?
Here I leave my syscon dump that I took using Advanced Tools.
Sorry for some mistakes, i don't speak english well.
Firmware Version: 4.88 (build 50731)
Platform ID: CokG11
Product Code: 00 85
Product Sub Code: 00 09
Hardware Config: 4E00FFFF0203BC3C
Syscon
Fimware Version: 0832.00010002083E0832 (EEPROM: 00010002083E0832)
Bringup Count: 2645, Shutdown Count: 2435
Runtime: 148 Days, 6 Hours, 31 Minutes, 19 Seconds
Error Log
01:
200601: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 03:18:56
2006
02: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:58
2006
03: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:45
2006
04: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:30
2006
05: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:18
2006
06: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:03
2006
07: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:41
2006
08: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:30
2006
09: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:17
2006
10: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:10
2006
11: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:00
2006
12: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:52
2006
13: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:43
2006
14: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:32
2006
15: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:22
2006
16: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 23:40:09
2006
17: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:15:23
2006
18: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:13:17
2006
19: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:59
2006
20: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:45
2006
21: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:31
2006
22: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:14
2006
23: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:11:53
2006
24: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:10:43
2006
25: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:10:25
2006
26: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:10:11
2006
27: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:09:59
2006
28: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:09:44
2006
29: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:09:27
2006
30: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 19:13:47
2006
31: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 18:54:37
2006
32: FFFFFFFF Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999
Here I leave my syscon dump that I took using Advanced Tools.
Sorry for some mistakes, i don't speak english well.
Firmware Version: 4.88 (build 50731)
Platform ID: CokG11
Product Code: 00 85
Product Sub Code: 00 09
Hardware Config: 4E00FFFF0203BC3C
Syscon
Fimware Version: 0832.00010002083E0832 (EEPROM: 00010002083E0832)
Bringup Count: 2645, Shutdown Count: 2435
Runtime: 148 Days, 6 Hours, 31 Minutes, 19 Seconds
Error Log
01:
200601: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 03:18:56
2006
02: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:58
2006
03: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:45
2006
04: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:30
2006
05: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:18
2006
06: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:22:03
2006
07: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:41
2006
08: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:30
2006
09: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:17
2006
10: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:10
2006
11: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:21:00
2006
12: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:52
2006
13: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:43
2006
14: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:32
2006
15: A0801002 Tue Jan 10 02:20:22
2006
16: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 23:40:09
2006
17: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:15:23
2006
18: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:13:17
2006
19: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:59
2006
20: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:45
2006
21: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:31
2006
22: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:12:14
2006
23: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:11:53
2006
24: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:10:43
2006
25: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:10:25
2006
26: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:10:11
2006
27: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:09:59
2006
28: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:09:44
2006
29: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 22:09:27
2006
30: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 19:13:47
2006
31: A0801002 Wed Jan 4 18:54:37
2006
32: FFFFFFFF Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999
Gus21
Member
ElGris
Senior Member
Personally I don't think a hairdryer could create a reconnection on crucial bgas, with temperatures lower than 130ºC on lead free bgas, no flux and not heat directly applied on balls is just a fool tale as saying all YLODs are the tokins. I once believed a high number of consoles were out business because the tokins exclusivily, but the more I met fats, the more I realized the bgas were the biggest issue on these models. But that doesn't mean the tokins are just happy angels flying around like beautiful pigeons. Do not expect to have a good working fat with the OG tokins, because they will fail no matter what (insert Kyle Reese face here).
So after a reball, just change at least half of them..
In the other hand, we have a hairdryer over the tokins, and the console boots. This happened to many people, and who could understand what's going on inside a tokin? A freaking alien, or Ant Man, who knows. The tests are there, the proofs are there, take them or leave them.
What everyone just prove and have experienced is that tokins are directly proportional to A CAUSE of YLOD, but why? I referred to them as spark plugs in the past, because sometimes behaviours like this happened:
* Console boots but shuts down after showing image
* Console boots but shuts down after playing a n amount of time
* Console boots but shuts down after playing a heavy game (happens almost always)
* Console only boots on recovery mode (SD resolution=RSX happy), when going on XMB it shuts down.
* Console boots when doing a lot of power cycles, then it shuts downs when doing anything on XMB or playing a light game.
* Delayed YLOD.
* GLOD.
You know, this is exactly how a RSX with DEAD tokins behave, and remember that we had no Syscon diagnostic back then. In this case an 1002 means power fail on the RSX, so I believe something electrically is happening when you try to power up the console repetively, is not just the heat on the tokins.
Now with the syscon diagnostic finding this tokin issue should be a piece of cake, thanks to the masters of this nice place, but I also remember the guy who exposed "globaly" this fault by starting this thread. It couldn't be better, and we also got the Frank mod in the same way.
P/S: I'll leave a couple of logs of my two slims with bad tokins that did behave with the previous description, in case someone wants to see them.
So after a reball, just change at least half of them..
In the other hand, we have a hairdryer over the tokins, and the console boots. This happened to many people, and who could understand what's going on inside a tokin? A freaking alien, or Ant Man, who knows. The tests are there, the proofs are there, take them or leave them.
What everyone just prove and have experienced is that tokins are directly proportional to A CAUSE of YLOD, but why? I referred to them as spark plugs in the past, because sometimes behaviours like this happened:
* Console boots but shuts down after showing image
* Console boots but shuts down after playing a n amount of time
* Console boots but shuts down after playing a heavy game (happens almost always)
* Console only boots on recovery mode (SD resolution=RSX happy), when going on XMB it shuts down.
* Console boots when doing a lot of power cycles, then it shuts downs when doing anything on XMB or playing a light game.
* Delayed YLOD.
* GLOD.
You know, this is exactly how a RSX with DEAD tokins behave, and remember that we had no Syscon diagnostic back then. In this case an 1002 means power fail on the RSX, so I believe something electrically is happening when you try to power up the console repetively, is not just the heat on the tokins.
Now with the syscon diagnostic finding this tokin issue should be a piece of cake, thanks to the masters of this nice place, but I also remember the guy who exposed "globaly" this fault by starting this thread. It couldn't be better, and we also got the Frank mod in the same way.
P/S: I'll leave a couple of logs of my two slims with bad tokins that did behave with the previous description, in case someone wants to see them.
Attachments
Hi Gus21,
Sure, it's a little tricky to navigate the first time. It's not cheap, and also note the issue Felix raised above about a lot of current going through the small area.
I got the soulkilla board and it worked out great, haven't got the new TaPol Interface v2 yet but I'm sure it'll work just as well when it ships. Here's what I did:
1. Sign up for an account at https://www.pcbway.com/ and login
2. Download the Tapol file gerber file as a .zip
https://i.imgur.com/0cun4im.png
3. Click on PCB Prototype
https://i.imgur.com/2qaSmmg.png
4. Click on Quick-order PCB
https://i.imgur.com/saJacHq.png
5. Click that +Add Gerber File button
https://i.imgur.com/3AEO5Mi.png
6. Browse to that 154637....zip file you downloaded
https://i.imgur.com/R4FYYBB.png
7. Don't change any settings, click add to cart
8. Set the quantity you want. The default is 5. You need 1 PCB per TOKIN you're replacing.
9. Proceed to checkout
Their staff will review your order and approve it, for me it was within about 20 minutes.
Sure, it's a little tricky to navigate the first time. It's not cheap, and also note the issue Felix raised above about a lot of current going through the small area.
I got the soulkilla board and it worked out great, haven't got the new TaPol Interface v2 yet but I'm sure it'll work just as well when it ships. Here's what I did:
1. Sign up for an account at https://www.pcbway.com/ and login
2. Download the Tapol file gerber file as a .zip
https://i.imgur.com/0cun4im.png
3. Click on PCB Prototype
https://i.imgur.com/2qaSmmg.png
4. Click on Quick-order PCB
https://i.imgur.com/saJacHq.png
5. Click that +Add Gerber File button
https://i.imgur.com/3AEO5Mi.png
6. Browse to that 154637....zip file you downloaded
https://i.imgur.com/R4FYYBB.png
7. Don't change any settings, click add to cart
8. Set the quantity you want. The default is 5. You need 1 PCB per TOKIN you're replacing.
9. Proceed to checkout
Their staff will review your order and approve it, for me it was within about 20 minutes.
Gus21
Member
Thanks.
ElGris
Senior Member
What a coincidence. Yes, the issue is on the RSX's tokins, since those are the most heavely used when playing games. Replace the ones from the back (where's no processors). That should be enough. Also, better don't use a heatgun, use something sharp to lift the middle point of the tokin, and start cutting it, then remove the metal contacts using a tip like this:
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31oL7g5iykL.jpg
Gus21
Member
Do these pcb already have the bridge? I ask you this question because I will remove all nec tokins.
No, I wish it did.
You'll need to do the wire bridge or leave 1 NEC.
I tend to do the wire bridge.
Volodymyr malyshev
Member
Good morning and thank you for reply. I am going to leave my console to one technician to perform reball of RSX. After we check tokins and i will leave here some notes.
Daniel Leite
Forum Noob
Hello everyone. I'm new in the forum, and, despite my very limited knowledge on electronics, I have tried to repair my CECHA01 PS3 by my own. I have seen lots of NSC videos in YT, and also read lots of threads by Paco and RIP-Felix, which had helped me a lot, thanks in advance. But I guess I have reached a dead end now, as I don't know where to go.
To sum up, I had a working CECHA01 that was having 3 bips during heavy games. I imagined that this was being caused by poor TOKINS, despite I have not checked using syscom method. So I replaced RSX 2 tokins on the front (opposite to where RSX and CELL are) of the board for 8 tantalum caps. After, I tested it and the fan was going mad just after I turned it on and then RLOD. No yellow light.
This time, I had a syscon check, which gave me the following errors.
> ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0902203 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0801200 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0801001 0B4A2919
> ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0801004 0B4A22C1
> ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0801001 0B4A2175
> ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0801004 0B49EE27
> ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0801004 0B49EE27
> ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0801001 0B7DFFF7
> ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0801200 0B4ABBB8
By reading this thread and the excellent comments on the experienced users, I guess I may have overheated some component near the CELL-BE (maybe thermal sensor?), ir maybe the CELL itself.
I used a electro grill and had the IHS removed from CELL and RSX, once the PS3 was already delided. Maybe got too much heat from the grill? Guess it may not have surpassed 120 degrees but this could have been too much.
Hope to hear from you guys,
Thanks again.
To sum up, I had a working CECHA01 that was having 3 bips during heavy games. I imagined that this was being caused by poor TOKINS, despite I have not checked using syscom method. So I replaced RSX 2 tokins on the front (opposite to where RSX and CELL are) of the board for 8 tantalum caps. After, I tested it and the fan was going mad just after I turned it on and then RLOD. No yellow light.
This time, I had a syscon check, which gave me the following errors.
> ERRLOG GET 00
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 01
00000000 A0902203 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 02
00000000 A0801200 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 03
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 04
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 05
00000000 A0801103 FFFFFFFF
> ERRLOG GET 06
00000000 A0801001 0B4A2919
> ERRLOG GET 07
00000000 A0801004 0B4A22C1
> ERRLOG GET 08
00000000 A0801001 0B4A2175
> ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0801004 0B49EE27
> ERRLOG GET 09
00000000 A0801004 0B49EE27
> ERRLOG GET 10
00000000 A0801001 0B7DFFF7
> ERRLOG GET 11
00000000 A0801200 0B4ABBB8
By reading this thread and the excellent comments on the experienced users, I guess I may have overheated some component near the CELL-BE (maybe thermal sensor?), ir maybe the CELL itself.
I used a electro grill and had the IHS removed from CELL and RSX, once the PS3 was already delided. Maybe got too much heat from the grill? Guess it may not have surpassed 120 degrees but this could have been too much.
Hope to hear from you guys,
Thanks again.
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
@Gus21 @checha I opened my Tantalizer board back up if you want to use them. Download the gerber files and order from PCBway or JLCPCB. You can also get the caps cheapest from LCSC.
Timbo9876
Member
Hi, this happened to me and I discovered it was the cell processor overheating. I also did a de-lid of the cell and used liquid metal, however the cell was overheating as the liquid metal was not making contact with the heat spreader.
So applying more paste under the cell heat spreader would likely sort out the issue. Or you could use the eraser mod to push the cell dye towards the heat spreader thus making contact and resolving the issue.
Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
So applying more paste under the cell heat spreader would likely sort out the issue. Or you could use the eraser mod to push the cell dye towards the heat spreader thus making contact and resolving the issue.
Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
Eraser mod is dangerous. I reccomend layering thermal pads if you must do it at all (which I would argue you don't).
Timbo9876
Member
If you believe the eraser mod is dangerous then it's a cell de-lid and new paste, or if its already been de-lidded then add a little more paste.
However some would argue that a de-lid is high risk with even the slightest scratch causing failure so its really up to the individual to make this decision.
My personal console has this mod, I did use thermal pads to create the mod, and it's had no issues for well over a year now. However you have given me cause for concern, is there any evidence that this mod is dangerous? Has anyone reported failures directly in relation to this mod?
Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
However some would argue that a de-lid is high risk with even the slightest scratch causing failure so its really up to the individual to make this decision.
My personal console has this mod, I did use thermal pads to create the mod, and it's had no issues for well over a year now. However you have given me cause for concern, is there any evidence that this mod is dangerous? Has anyone reported failures directly in relation to this mod?
Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
Gus21
Member
Rip-Felix I'm trying to use PS3 Tantalizer 0.3b file
on the PCBway or JLCPCB website, it looks like it's not properly loading the data, I checked and it looks like some errors.
Could you check why the PS3 Tantalizer 0.3b data does not load correctly?
I tested the TaPol Interface v2 indicated by the user @checha and it seems that it loads the data normally.
Failed reason:
file is currently not supported for PCB fabrication, please upload .pcb/.pcbdoc./cam files or Gerber files in format of RS-274X.;
Img1；
Last edited:
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
I haven't used PCBway or JLCpcb myself, so I have no idea what they are complaining about. @NewRetroRepair ordered like 500 sucessfully form one of those, I forget which. So mabye he can help.
I'm moving on from that design. And I'm not super motivated to 'hurry up and finish' the next design. It's just one of many ongoning projects I'm neglecting.
RIP-Felix
Senior Member
PS3 #15
(E01 with Intense YLOD)
I recieved the console yesterday and opened it this morning. It wasn't sealed, so it'll be fun to discover what's inside waiting for me.(E01 with Intense YLOD)
This one was describe as follows...
I gave it a quick test before work and it does turn on, load into XMB fine. I didn't run any games (I don't like retrieving them from the BD after the console dies, I've been burned before). But pretty quickly it became apparent the console has overheating issues.
The default syscon curve ramped up multiple levels (4-5 of them) just idling. So that's probably why some games trigger a YLOD. Not sure, but I had to go to work.
When I got home I installed install CFW so I can see temps and dump the errorlog without having to install UART.
I installed GTA5 and made my way to my favorite stress testing spot by the water. I would have used The Last of Us' splash screen, press start screen with window in the background. It hits even harder than GTA5. But my copy of TLoU is in the Bluray drive of a dissassembled console and I didnt feel like retrieving it.
Anyway, here's the result...
The Errorlog shows 1001 errors mostly. There is one 1002 error. The 1002 occured after someone opened the console, judging by the timestamp. I hope they left the tokins alone!
I do not see any 1200 errors, so shockingly the overheating issues have not caused a thermal shutdown! That's suprising.
Other useful SYSCON tidbits...
Runtime = 409 Days
Bringups = 1413
Shutdowns = 1329
This console has plenty of use and was played by a gamer, not used by a data center.
The console didn't YLOD once during my GTA5 stress test. But I was using webMAN dynamic fan to keep the CPU at 68C during the entire test. I doubt that would affect the tokins (if that is indeed what's happening here), but that is a varible I changed.
The next step is to try and trigger a YLOD in TLoU. Or GT6. I want to see if I can actually trigger a genuine YLOD due to stressful games. Confirm what error code it produces, then use the O-scope to measure ripple under that same condition.
This is a golden opprituinity! This console only just started "toking out." So the ripple this thing is measuring should be the upper limit where YLOD can occur.
From the math, it should be +100mV or -163mV. That's the threshold set by resistors SONY chose on the Buck controller. They can be changed to allow more ripple and prevent this YLOD, but that's the cheap/lazy way out. The proper method is to replace the tokins and deliver smooth DC voltage to the processors. The CPU and GPU will run cooler and last longer.
Last edited:
Hello,
Thanks for getting me updated.
This was a greal deal.
Can we go to PM, I've got a few question to ask you ?
No I guess.
If the rubber is from a hard eraser and way too thick, then I think this could lead into a BGA damage 'during' assembly.
But as soon as the heatsink screws are tightened, nothing will happen, no stress to the ball grid, only a little bit more pressure to the whole package. The pressure works in the same direction, its clamped in between like in a vise
You could argue that a reball will apply a lot of destructive heat to the whole board, a very unwholesome process for many components
and the eraser-mod will prevent this :pSimilar threads
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