PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the NEC/TOKIN terminals from the motherboard pads after the majority of the tokin is removed? I'm practicing removing them from a dead board and so far I've only been able to remove one cleanly and I don't even know how I did it. I removed a couple others but also damaged the pads.

I was trying to follow this video (saw this in a Felix video) but this is how I damaged the pads. I think what I did when I successfully removed the one terminal is apply flux, apply the wick, apply solder, hold iron on the end of the terminal for about 30 seconds, remove iron and let the solder cool for a moment and then apply the iron again and start peeling the wick away. But I'm wasn't able to reproduce that success on the other terminals, so I tried the "slicing" method from the video.

Here's a picture of the carnage
IMG_2626.jpg

Edit:
I am killing my soldering iron tip (my soldering iron is a Weller 30W WLIRK3012A)
IMG_2631.jpg
 
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marciolsf said:
Well, I have the results of my scope! I took two readings for the GPU, and two for the CPU -- one at 50mV/5ms and another at 50mV/1uS. On both pictures, you can see @squeept 's "bad tokin" readings. The funny thing is, i don't have a tokin, it's all tantalum!

I just bought a new set of tips, so this weekend's project is to take them all out, do some readings, test each cap and then put them back on.
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Hey @marciolsf can you confirm that all mullions run on same voltage and check the peak voltage on xatl line right cap in front of crystals oscillator and also if you would be willing to take of Sherwood off a superslim and show us the pads underneath I want to trace syscon pins and prepare some basic schematics associated with the pin functions like in schematic
 
How bad of a job did I do? While I'm waiting on the 470uF caps for the tantalizer, I thought I would start on the smaller caps and I don't think I did a good job at all. Is there a way to validate if the connections are solid before I actually solder the whole thing to the motherboard?

IMG_2657.jpg IMG_2658.jpg IMG_2659.jpg IMG_2656.jpeg
 
We
need_ps3_help said:
How bad of a job did I do? While I'm waiting on the 470uF caps for the tantalizer, I thought I would start on the smaller caps and I don't think I did a good job at all. Is there a way to validate if the connections are solid before I actually solder the whole thing to the motherboard?

View attachment 41452 View attachment 41453 View attachment 41454 View attachment 41455
Click to expand...
Well you surely need solderwick and a good flux with a temp controlled iron and it will be a shiny job like a silver
 
need_ps3_help said:
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the NEC/TOKIN terminals from the motherboard pads after the majority of the tokin is removed? I'm practicing removing them from a dead board and so far I've only been able to remove one cleanly and I don't even know how I did it. I removed a couple others but also damaged the pads.

I was trying to follow this video (saw this in a Felix video) but this is how I damaged the pads. I think what I did when I successfully removed the one terminal is apply flux, apply the wick, apply solder, hold iron on the end of the terminal for about 30 seconds, remove iron and let the solder cool for a moment and then apply the iron again and start peeling the wick away. But I'm wasn't able to reproduce that success on the other terminals, so I tried the "slicing" method from the video.

Here's a picture of the carnage
View attachment 41418

Edit:
I am killing my soldering iron tip (my soldering iron is a Weller 30W WLIRK3012A)
View attachment 41424
Click to expand...

I use China soldering iron with regulator and it has option of changing tips, its cheap and works great.Just put it at 350℃,add some solder on the pads,go over them few times and wick peals off very easly by itself
 
Fallen777 said:
We

Well you surely need solderwick and a good flux with a temp controlled iron and it will be a shiny job like a silver
Click to expand...

I actually managed to cleanly solder another board. Before I tried to add solder to both the cap and pad and then make contact, but then I just added a little solder to the pad and rested the cap on the pad while heating. Some of the solder isn't silvery though. Some are like a dull gray.
 
Emil Tuzla said:
I use China soldering iron with regulator and it has option of changing tips, its cheap and works great.Just put it at 350℃,add some solder on the pads,go over them few times and wick peals off very easly by itself
Click to expand...

For some reason I could not get the terminals up that way. What worked for me was using a flat-ish tip, resting it on the end of the terminal at 400C, then after 10 seconds use really thin pliers under the terminal and then slowly peel away
 
I think I finally fixed my ps3. After removing the NEC/TOKINs from behind the CELL and replacing them with Felix's tantalizer board with all 9 caps, I'm not getting a shutdown in demanding in-game areas anymore.

This is kind of a recap of what this ps3 has gone through if anyone cares:
  1. got a CECHE01 (that couldn't read any games)
    1. replaced the disc drive but not important to the fix
  2. didn't play it long enough to see if it had any issues, but de-lidded the cpu to try to prevent any overheating
  3. during the paste/glue burn in after re-gluing the IHS, noticed it started shutting down during some demanding gaming
  4. de-lidded again to see if I didn't apply enough paste or something, but still shutting down
  5. jailbroke and installed webman to see temps, control fan, and see error log
  6. error log showed error 801001 and after some community input, concluded it was probably the cpu TOKINs
  7. replaced the TOKINs behind the cpu with the tantalizer board
  8. re-glued cpu IHS yet again
  9. played black ops 2 in areas it would shutdown at and nothing happened so I continued playing until the 2hr mark from when I applied the IHS glue
will edit the post tomorrow after I let the glue set overnight

EDIT: ps3 is still working. Played about an hour straight of BO2 zombies with both the cpu and gpu at 65C w/ fan sitting at 40% but no issues other than that
 
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Hello everyone, I have a 2004A ps3 console that has a YLOD problem, which turns on after turning the console on and off several times and heating the NEC/TOKIN capacitors, but in the middle of relatively heavy games, it turns off and gives a yellow light. What do you think is the problem? Help me. do
 
Tho
armanHP said:
Hello everyone, I have a 2004A ps3 console that has a YLOD problem, which turns on after turning the console on and off several times and heating the NEC/TOKIN capacitors, but in the middle of relatively heavy games, it turns off and gives a yellow light. What do you think is the problem? Help me. do
Click to expand...
Those models have NEC's on bottom and tantulum on upper side you need to replicate the NEC's with tantuluns use @RIP-Felix 's tantulizer boards they will be better also note what NEC type you have two variations of NEC's are used in ps3 fat and slim both have capacitance difference
 
Fallen777 said:
Tho

Those models have NEC's on bottom and tantulum on upper side you need to replicate the NEC's with tantuluns use @RIP-Felix 's tantulizer boards they will be better also note what NEC type you have two variations of NEC's are used in ps3 fat and slim both have capacitance difference
Click to expand...
Hello, I don't understand what you are saying, dear friend. Can you say more clearly, of course, you can tell the complete specifications of the capacitor that should be used, thank you.
 
Thank you very much, what kind of capacitor should I get for this console model and what are the complete specifications of the capacitor that I need? I would be grateful if you could guide me.
 
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armanHP said:
Thank you very much, what kind of capacitor should I get for this console model and what are the complete specifications of the capacitor that I need? I would be grateful if you could guide me.
Click to expand...
You need the ones that are on the upper side of motherboard right next to cpu and GPU are black caps rated either 470uf or 330uf and are either 2.5v or 6.3v that you'll have figure out yourself do some research within forums one tokin is equal to 3-4 tantulum caps make some combined capacitance of tantulums only exceed tokins caps by only 100-200uf margin or you fry the chip
 
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