PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Hi

Next fat PS3 CECHG04

at the begining the error lods were as belowe

ofst[ 12]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0x0b49f7fb 2006/01/01 02:16:27
ofst[ 16]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b571364 2006/01/11 00:52:52
ofst[ 20]:err_code:0xa0071002, clock:0x0b57136b 2006/01/11 00:52:59
ofst[ 24]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b571376 2006/01/11 00:53:10
ofst[ 28]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b57137b 2006/01/11 00:53:15
ofst[ 32]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b57137e 2006/01/11 00:53:18
ofst[ 36]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b571385 2006/01/11 00:53:25
ofst[ 40]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b57138f 2006/01/11 00:53:35
ofst[ 44]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b571394 2006/01/11 00:53:40
ofst[ 48]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b571399 2006/01/11 00:53:45
ofst[ 52]:err_code:0xa0061002, clock:0x0b57139e 2006/01/11 00:53:50
ofst[ 56]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e1341 2006/06/10 23:33:21
ofst[ 60]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e1349 2006/06/10 23:33:29
ofst[ 64]:err_code:0xa0091002, clock:0x0c1e1367 2006/06/10 23:33:59
ofst[ 68]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e1367 2006/06/10 23:33:59
ofst[ 72]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e1421 2006/06/10 23:37:05
ofst[ 76]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e202f 2006/06/11 00:28:31
ofst[ 80]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e2033 2006/06/11 00:28:35
ofst[ 84]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e2033 2006/06/11 00:28:35
ofst[ 88]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e2037 2006/06/11 00:28:39
ofst[ 92]:err_code:0xa0091002, clock:0x0c1e2044 2006/06/11 00:28:52
ofst[ 96]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e2044 2006/06/11 00:28:52
ofst[100]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e204e 2006/06/11 00:29:02
ofst[104]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e2053 2006/06/11 00:29:07
ofst[108]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e2091 2006/06/11 00:30:09
ofst[112]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e2098 2006/06/11 00:30:16
ofst[116]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e2098 2006/06/11 00:30:16
ofst[120]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e20a2 2006/06/11 00:30:26
ofst[124]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e233c 2006/06/11 00:41:32
ofst[ 0]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e339d 2006/06/11 01:51:25
ofst[ 4]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e33c2 2006/06/11 01:52:02
ofst[ 8]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e33c2 2006/06/11 01:52:02

next I have cleared the errors go as folow

ofst[ 16]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 20]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 24]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 28]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 32]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 36]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 40]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 44]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 48]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 52]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 56]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 60]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 64]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 68]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 72]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 76]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 80]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 84]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 88]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 92]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 96]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[100]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[104]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[108]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[112]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[116]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[120]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[124]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 0]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e33f0 2006/06/11 01:52:48
ofst[ 4]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e340a 2006/06/11 01:53:14
ofst[ 8]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e3410 2006/06/11 01:53:20
ofst[ 12]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e3410 2006/06/11 01:53:20

I hace replaced one side of nectockins of RSX and I'm reciving 1701, what went wrong?

ofst[ 76]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 80]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 84]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 88]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 92]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 96]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[100]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[104]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[108]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[112]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[116]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[120]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[124]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff
ofst[ 0]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e33f0 2006/06/11 01:52:48
ofst[ 4]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e340a 2006/06/11 01:53:14
ofst[ 8]:err_code:0xa0081002, clock:0x0c1e3410 2006/06/11 01:53:20
ofst[ 12]:err_code:0xa0093004, clock:0x0c1e3410 2006/06/11 01:53:20
ofst[ 16]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25cb0f 2006/06/16 20:03:27
ofst[ 20]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25cb17 2006/06/16 20:03:35
ofst[ 24]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25cb29 2006/06/16 20:03:53
ofst[ 28]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25cb35 2006/06/16 20:04:05
ofst[ 32]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25ccf3 2006/06/16 20:11:31
ofst[ 36]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25ccfc 2006/06/16 20:11:40
ofst[ 40]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25cd03 2006/06/16 20:11:47
ofst[ 44]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25cd9c 2006/06/16 20:14:20
ofst[ 48]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25ce52 2006/06/16 20:17:22
ofst[ 52]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25ce72 2006/06/16 20:17:54
ofst[ 56]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25ce99 2006/06/16 20:18:33
ofst[ 60]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25ceb3 2006/06/16 20:18:59
ofst[ 64]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25cebe 2006/06/16 20:19:10
ofst[ 68]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25d2e8 2006/06/16 20:36:56
ofst[ 72]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0c25d316 2006/06/16 20:37:42
 

Ready ! but it gave me some hard time.
First i replaced the capacitors from the bottom side but it didn't work so i also replaced them in the top side as well. I screwed everything back and powered it on. I could hear a whining noise so i opened it up again. I powered it up so i can check better what it was. I heard it from the top side of the RSX...I unsoldered everything and soldered them back but 4 at each time while i was testing them. It worked without any noise BUT something started to smell LOL. Long story shot there was one defective capacitor in the batch and caused me problems....All good now.
I'm testing the console while in game for an hour and looks stable. :)



PS: ignore the thermal paste in the photos, i replaced it again with mx4.
 
Hey Guys,
Quick question. I have reflowed several Ps3 consoles with an intact warranty seal in the last few weeks. Yes a reflow is not a long term repair but these are CECHG04 and CECHH04 consoles which unfortunately are not worth repairing anyway and all had the typical A0403034 and one 4xxx error. All of them started again but some failed again some immediately some after a week. But this time they all had the A0801002 error. My theory now would be that the original defect for the majority of the consoles involves cold solder joints on the RSX, which is then fixed via reflow or reball, but this exposes the NEC tokens to significantly more heat than they can handle according to the data sheet, causing them to die either immediately or over time. This would also explain why this is only a problem now that they are older. The older they are, the more likely they are to fail after being exposed to a lot of heat. This would also fit with the problem RIP-Felix mentioned that the NEC tokens fail about a month after a reball. Similar temperatures are reached during a reflow. In my opinion, this would also explain why a reflow is no longer effective at some point. This is because the fault has not been rectified by many bad reflows, e.g. with a hairdryer, so that the device fails again. Which makes you repeat the process. This stresses the NEC tokens over and over again and at some point they'll be scrap, which is why the next reflow won't help. That's why they fail even though they have not yet reached their minimum running time.It might also explain why some consoles with Reball break down within a year and some still run for 10+ years. These people were lucky that the NEC tokens didn't break. Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope to test whether the NEC tokens are really broken. Are there any here where the consoles have behaved similarly after a reflow or reball?
What do you think of my thesis? Have I overlooked something? Or is what I'm suggesting here complete nonsense?
 
Hi, I removed the 2 Nec Tokin on the top of the RSX board (COK-001/CECHA00), but the flathead screwdriver slipped and I removed 5 mlcc capacitors: C6073, C2176, C2182, C2193, C2254.
I tried to solder some but I couldn't, they are too small, I have them saved, the console turns on and I can play, but my question is can I leave it without those capacitors, will I have problems in the future?
sorry for my English, I'm using a translator
Thanks
xktxwzS
QFbRkNYS
 
Hello, I know you from Trisaster! (@Joel_

What you are suggesting is not absurd, but every electronic component is susceptible to failure. NEC-Tokin is not untouchable. I remember that when the news came out that Ylod could be solved by replacing NEc with tantalum, many based their findings on two pieces of evidence: newer PS3 boards had a set of tantalum capacitors with MLCC and that there were also notebooks that used NEC, which had problems and were solved by replacing them with another NEc or with tantalum.

Error 1001/1002 can be caused by BGA, it is a possibility, but in all the PS3s I have had these errors were solved by replacing 2 NEC
with 8 tantalums of 470uf. I have a PS3 that replaced with 8 tantalums of 330uf. So I believe that it is almost certain that your error 1002 will be the NEC. The oscilloscope will only tell you that the set of 4 NECs is not ok. You can do the test by including 1 tantalum capacitor on each NEC pad.

About error 3034, I don't have a reballing machine and of the four PS3s I have with this problem, I managed to get around two of them with a reflow. This is not a recommended or appropriate procedure, they are equipment from my collection and the intention is only to keep them functional, I don't even use them to play games (although I spend $$ buying the KES-400A). The other two PS3s with error 3034 will still be analyzed.

On the two PS3s where error 3034 disappeared, the pressure test had no effect, so I only heated the B side of the board with the help of a heat gun and a thermometer. When assembling, I don't apply pressure to the clamp that holds the 2 screws, I leave it as it is. I noticed that when I applied pressure to the clamp on a device, it turned on with GLOD, but the control was working. I waited 2 minutes, restarted the PS3 and it worked without problems. So I got another clamp, didn't apply pressure and now it turns on and shows an image every time I turn it on.

And I reiterate what I said, reflow is not the appropriate/indicated procedure. It can help you make a decision about what type of maintenance to perform, but for the end user, don't do it.

ercarlitosg said:
Hello,

I have been trying this afternoon, and I was able to get to the XMB, but then the image freezed. The thing is that if I move through the XMB I can hear the click and also the console can be powered without two beeps. But the image is frozen. Also, I could get to recovery menu and first boot menu at 1080p without any artifacts or freezes. If I go back to XMB at 1080p it freezes just after the PS3 boot logo, if I use the lowest resolution I can move some seconds in the XMB until it freezes the image again.

So do you think it needs a reballing or could it be the wires between the positive rails aren't big enough for the chip?. This is the next thing I want to try.

This is what I get after the logo. Before the logo no artifacts so far.

IMG-3422.jpg
Click to expand...
It looks like a bad BGA. Let the PS3 warm up for 1 or 2 minutes and restart to see if it improves a bit.

It's time to do (or find someone to do) the reballing on the RSX.
 
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hello guys, i had a ps3 CECHG04 with ylod.
I replaced all 8 tokins with felix pcb tantalizer, and now the console start and i can navigate in the dashboard.
All seems ok, but when i launch app or game the console go in black screen and i must turn off from the back.

I have a question, if i changed all NEC TOKIN i must bridge the positive to positive with awg wire?

thank you.
IMG-1959.jpg
[/url]
IMG-1958.jpg
 
Last edited:
Timbo9876 said:
Is your BD drive connected? Apps won't run without it connected properly

Sent from my SM-F936B using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

is connected but doesnt work, thanks for the tip, i will check the flat cable

i changed the BD flat cable and now all works. Thank you mate!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What are the best possible capacitors for 0E128 NEC/Tokin replacement? Panasonic 2R5TPE470M7? I also meaning correct size that will fit under metal shield.
 
cbpng8 said:
hello guys, i had a ps3 CECHG04 with ylod.
I replaced all 8 tokins with felix pcb tantalizer, and now the console start and i can navigate in the dashboard.
All seems ok, but when i launch app or game the console go in black screen and i must turn off from the back.

I have a question, if i changed all NEC TOKIN i must bridge the positive to positive with awg wire?

thank you.
IMG-1959.jpg
[/url]
IMG-1958.jpg
Click to expand...

You dont have to bridge anything if youre using tantalizer boards

KubaJDM said:
What are the best possible capacitors for 0E128 NEC/Tokin replacement? Panasonic 2R5TPE470M7? I also meaning correct size that will fit under metal shield.
Click to expand...

I use these KEMET tantalums T520V477M2R5ATE007. They are 7 mOhm and can be used with tantalizer boards. If youre soldering directly to the PCB you can use the taller 3mm ones. If you want the best ones these are close T528Z477M2R5ATE005. The are 5 mOhm but also cost over $5 each. All the 4 mOhm ones ive seen are over 4mm and wont fit with a tantalizer board. Make sure to buy from a reputable seller not from ebay or aliexpress. Ive seen plenty of people selling on ebay and they are selling 25 mOhm or higher. Good ones are expensive and the only way you can tell what ESR they have is if you can see the manufacturer part number. The last 3 digits usually indicate what the ESR rating is.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oh my god, I finally figured out what my issue was.
For context, a while back I came to this thread asking for info on fixing my Phat PS3 with dead TOKINs. I soldered the caps that I got (sadly the only place I could get them from was Aliexpress, cause third world country /shrug), and... I started getting 3003's, power related issues, and I had no clue as to why it was happening. Tldr, I forgot the bridge between the top positive lane and the bottom one... yeah... I thought that I could skip on the ceramic caps temporarily to test if I could even get to the XMB just before soldering everything, to see if my previous mistake involving a dremel and the PCB killed the console permanently. I saw that the bottom lanes on the bottom of the PCB weren't connected to anything meaningful on the first layer, which was true, but what I failed to acknowledge was that these were bridged with the bottom lanes on the bottom, which ARE connected to very important power components. After doing the shittiest solder job in the world to get the bridge there... I now got a 1200!!! Of course it would overheat, no fans or anything, but it works!!! Now I'm waiting for a power eject flex to arrive, cause mine's epoxy strain reliefs broke, but once I get them I should be ready to go :D
Thanks @/RIP_Felix for all the help and videos, you seriously rock <3. I hope I get better at this, it would be fun to start repairing these consoles as a hobby.
 
Hello there.

After seeking some guidance on Discord I decided to post my findings here because my CECHL04 is also giving me a YLOD. It seems to happen mostly right after a cold boot when the console has been left on standby for a few days, and it has happened up to twice in a row. Funnily enough, after it happens for the first few times, the console is capable of handling The Last of Us - but when the YLOD did happen on me it usually happened on games like Ben 10 Omniverse or Sonic Generations. Sometimes it happened when booting PS2 games.

The console had the warranty sticker up until I believe was late 2023 when I opened it to clean up its insides, repaste and replace the battery, then opened up again in mid 2024 for a CELL delid. The console has been fine up until very recently when these YLODs started happening.

Here's the syscon error log dumped through PS3 Advanced Tools.

Code: 
Firmware Version: 4.91 (build 50754)
Platform ID: CokF10
Product Code: 00 85
Product Sub Code: 00 08
Hardware Config: 4E00FFFF0307BCBF
Syscon Fimware Version: 065D.0000000000000000 (EEPROM: 0000000000000000)

Bringup Count: 4195, Shutdown Count: 3759
Runtime: 258 Days, 18 Hours, 48 Minutes, 33 Seconds

Error Log
01: A0802124  Fri May 11 02:53:07 2007
02: A0801002  Fri May 11 02:53:07 2007
03: A0802022  Fri May 11 02:52:54 2007
04: A0802124  Thu May 10 02:45:03 2007
05: A0802124  Thu May 10 02:45:02 2007
06: A0802124  Thu May 10 02:45:02 2007
07: A0801002  Thu May 10 02:45:01 2007
08: A0802022  Thu May 10 02:44:03 2007
09: A0802124  Thu May 10 02:37:13 2007
10: A0801002  Thu May 10 02:37:12 2007
11: A0802124  Sat Apr 21 01:13:57 2007
12: A0802124  Sat Apr 21 01:13:56 2007
13: A0801002  Sat Apr 21 01:13:56 2007
14: A0802124  Fri Apr 20 09:40:07 2007
15: A0802124  Fri Apr 20 09:40:06 2007
16: A0801002  Fri Apr 20 09:40:06 2007
17: A0802124  Tue Mar 20 21:53:35 2007
18: A0801002  Tue Mar 20 21:53:35 2007
19: A0802124  Tue Mar 20 21:12:33 2007
20: A0801002  Tue Mar 20 21:12:33 2007
21: A0802124  Sat Mar 17 20:04:16 2007
22: A0801002  Sat Mar 17 20:04:15 2007
23: A0802124  Sat Dec  2 11:25:03 2006
24: A0801002  Sat Dec  2 11:25:03 2006
25: A0802124  Sun Nov  5 17:59:53 2006
26: A0801002  Sun Nov  5 17:59:53 2006
27: A0802124  Sat Sep 30 23:05:06 2006
28: A0801002  Sat Sep 30 23:05:05 2006
29: A0802022  Fri Sep 22 13:52:24 2006
30: A0802022  Fri Sep 22 13:51:56 2006
31: A0802022  Tue Aug 29 19:45:18 2006
32: FFFFFFFF  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999

Aside from all the weird dates (it happened as lately as March/February this year, dunno where May came from), a quick search on the PS3 Dev wiki and on PSX-Place indicates the real culprit here is possibly 1002 and so a replacement of the RSX-side Tokins is necessary.

I don't know when exactly I plan to dedicate some time to fixing the console, but I'm thinking about trying a couple more power cycles to confirm the error. Any further guidance on my case would be appreciated (for one a picture of the Tokins that cause the 1002 error would be nice turns out I have them from when I first opened up the console).
 
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RIP-Felix said:
PS3 Tantalizer - Beta Release (v0.9b)
(Order or Download from OSH Park HERE)

View attachment 36416​
Notes:
  • If you choose to use this PCB, you are doing so at your own risk! I cannot be held responsible for any damages. Although at this point they have been used successfully for several years without issue, assuming they were soldered correctly and appropriate capacitor choices were made.
  • This PCB is designed to make it easier and safer to attach polymer/MLCC capacitors to your PS3. Replacing the NEC/TOKINs IS NOT guaranteed to fix the problems you are experiencing. You must properly troubleshoot your console to decide if this mod is right for you.
  • MLCC pads are meant for 0805 case size.
  • You must choose 0.8mm board thickness in the options during checkout. This ensures it'll fit underneath the RF shield when you reassemble the console.
  • You must buy 2mm height capacitors or shorter. This ensures it'll fit underneath the RF shield when you reassemble the console.
  • Polymer pads are for 7343 (7.3 x 4.3 x 1.9mm, LxWxH). You can use other types of capacitors that fit this footprint, such as aluminum polymer, tantalum polymer, etc. However, they must be low ESR/ESL processor decoupling capacitors. The PCB takes up 0.8mm of height, so caps need to be low profile (less than 2mm). Each one should be less than 9mΩ ESR, 4.5mΩ ideally.
  • Example Capacitors: these are only examples, use the specifications to shop around for the best prices.
    • 3x 470uF 2.5v 7mΩ Panasonic 2R5TPE470M7 TaPol caps.
    • 1x 47uF 10v X5R 0805 MLCC (Example)
    • 1x 22uF 10v X5R 0805 MLCC (Example)
    • 1x 10uF 10v X5R 0805 MLCC (Example)
    • 1x 4.7uF 10v X5R 0805 MLCC (Example)
    • 1x 2.2uF 10v X5R 0805 MLCC (Example)
    • 1x 1uF 10v X5R 0805 MLCC (Example)
    • Total cost = About $25 for a set of 8x tantalizers
  • You do not need to buy the MLCC capacitors. The 470uF capacitors are enough on their own. However, the MLCC capacitors help to attenuate the higher frequency noise component up to around 2MHz, better mimicking the NEC/TOKIN proadlizer it's meant to replace. This is probably overkill on PS3's with 1000uF tokins. I still recommend using 470uF caps, because 3x 330uF is only 990uF and may not be enough. It's better to have more capacitance than less, but not too much more. The MLCCs are more needed on 90nm CPU/GPU early models (A-H). They have noisier switching VRM and higher load, which requires more decoupling than later models. Use them if your tokins are OE128 models. You probably don't need them otherwise.
  • You can download the Gerber files from OSH Park if you perfer to have another board house manufacture your Tantalizers. Just be sure the board is 0.8mm thick.
Pictures:
View attachment 37669 View attachment 37668

Note: The following pictures are of v0.3a I made with 7x MLCC pads. I decided to remove C10 because there was too little clearance between +/GND. v0.6b linked above will not have 7 MLCC pads. It has 6. And instead of a long edge for the GND connection, it now has 4 plated vias. These changes where needed to make it easier to manufacture. But the following pictures will give you a general idea of what they look like.
View attachment 35177 View attachment 35178
View attachment 35179 View attachment 35180

Here's one of v0.6b with Aluminum Polymer Caps.

View attachment 37675
Discussion:
People have asked me if the ceramic caps are necessary and how to calculate the right ones to use. I use KEMET's K-Sim to model the frequency response curve of any capacitor combination, to decide what values best attenuate the higher frequencies TaPol caps aren't as good at rejecting. The tokins were better at that. However you can use MLCC's to push the combined frequency response curve down. The MLCCs are not needed, we have confirmed the 470uF caps are sufficient on their own. But you can use them if you'd like to.

Here is an example of the frequency response curves:
View attachment 37665
View attachment 37673
Click to expand...
Hello @RIP-Felix,

I've purchased several of your 0.9b Tantalizers, used them on an 80GB PS3, and they've been working fine for a couple of months.

Now I want to use them to repair a backwards-compatible 60GB PS3.
For this console model, I also purchased the small ceramic capacitors to use with the tantalum capacitors.
I made a mistake by adding too much tin, leaving one end of a ceramic capacitor stuck to the positive side of a tantalum capacitor.

I removed the ceramic capacitor to remove the tin, but after scraping the PCB itself so much, it scratched and the solder got stuck in the crack in the board.
Could this cause a short circuit? Is it better to remove all the capacitors and throw away this PCB?

I have another question about the ceramic capacitors.
I know they don't have polarity, but do they have to be soldered onto the board in a certain order?

I am soldering them in the order from largest to smallest, 47uf, 22uf, 10uf, etc. starting with the side marked "IC4" on the board.

Tantalizer 0.9b.jpg


Best regards.
 
El_Patas said:
Hello @RIP-Felix
I made a mistake ...Could this cause a short circuit?
Click to expand...
20250425_151401.jpg

Not a problem. In yellow is all positive plane. Anything sort there is electrically fine. anything in blue is GND. If that's short it's electrically fine too. You just dont want anything in yellow short to blue.

I have another question about the ceramic capacitors.
I know they don't have polarity, but do they have to be soldered onto the board in a certain order?
Click to expand...
Nope

But you should note that you are intended to snip off the edges along the areas I marked below.
20250425_151153.jpg
 
RIP-Felix said:
View attachment 45901
Not a problem. In yellow is all positive plane. Anything sort there is electrically fine. anything in blue is GND. If that's short it's electrically fine too. You just dont want anything in yellow short to blue.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much, very clarifying, I will carefully re-solder the capacitor I removed.

RIP-Felix said:
Nope

But you should note that you are intended to snip off the edges along the areas I marked below.
View attachment 45903
Click to expand...
I see, the ceramic capacitors aren't arranged in any order, and I'll cut the board in
the places you indicated.

Thank you so much for these boards, they are very practical and work fine.

Best regards.
 
I have a PS3 Cechl01 that I bought from an online market, the board appears to be in good condition.
I removed the NECs and replaced them with tantalums, the device turns on and stays on the green light but there is no signal on the TV and no activity on the device's HD light.
I read the codes and got the following and I would like someone to help me with the codes.

ERR 00: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 01: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 02: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 03: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 04: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 05: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 06: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
 
Gus21 said:
I have a PS3 Cechl01 that I bought from an online market, the board appears to be in good condition.
I removed the NECs and replaced them with tantalums, the device turns on and stays on the green light but there is no signal on the TV and no activity on the device's HD light.
I read the codes and got the following and I would like someone to help me with the codes.

ERR 00: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 01: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 02: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 03: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 04: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 05: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
ERR 06: FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
Click to expand...

Try to get the codes one at a time. I've had cases where the "errlog" command brings back an empty log like you have there.

"errlog get 00"
"errlog get 01"
etc..
 
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