VERY weird ylod problem

H

Hourman123

Forum Noob
I hope someone can help me with my problem.
My FAT console began to show ylod behaviour 6 months ago. It would behave exactly as any other ylod console. However after trying to turn it on X times, it will progressively stay on for more and more seconds until it finally boots and then it is able to stay on and behave normally for hours. If I turn it off and turn it on, it will start completely normally on the first try, but if I leave it off for hours, I will have to try X times again.

This leads me to believe that it somehow strangely only works after it "warms up" which doesn't make sense considering ylod usually occurs because of overheating, and it appears mine happens only when it is cold.
The fan isn't loud at all and the console isn't physically hot.

I was lead to believe that a ylod console is permanently dead but mine contions to function with it so hopefully it can be saved. I wasn't able to find a situation like mine anywhere on google

Any help will be much appreciated.
 
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I have the same issue with my slim as well. The more I let it sit turned off the longer it takes to turn on with ylod. My only option is to dissemble and add new copper shims in the motherboard
 
Actually YLOD is due any critical problem the PS3 could have. But you only need to replace some NECs on the RSX, seeing what's doing yours. Overheating is something else.

The tantalums are like new spark plugs for the PS3.
 
As above this is a common YLOD, just another type, this doesnt mean its permanently dead at all its just telling u theres an issue somwhere lol.

In my own experience with these, these have been the easier fix for me and they were all done with a reball on the GPU. Not an over heating issue at all. The theory behind this so it makes more sense to u its either been contaminated BGA pads or cold solder joins. turning the console on and off creates more resistance in the faulty join/s and when they warm up they expand creating a slightly better circuit again.

Saying that i really cant rule out the tokin caps atm they seem to be popping up left right and center more so now days so for u this would be the cheapest thing to try 1st before reballing. i guess one way i would test this is when u finally have the unit up and running try playing one of the few demanding games that usually cause these to YLOD. if u can replicate that during one of these games then id possibly be leaning more towards doing this repair.

Dont reflow if u go down the reballing path its a waste of time and money.
 
wrx884 said:
As above this is a common YLOD, just another type, this doesnt mean its permanently dead at all its just telling u theres an issue somwhere lol.

In my own experience with these, these have been the easier fix for me and they were all done with a reball on the GPU. Not an over heating issue at all. The theory behind this so it makes more sense to u its either been contaminated BGA pads or cold solder joins. turning the console on and off creates more resistance in the faulty join/s and when they warm up they expand creating a slightly better circuit again.

Saying that i really cant rule out the tokin caps atm they seem to be popping up left right and center more so now days so for u this would be the cheapest thing to try 1st before reballing. i guess one way i would test this is when u finally have the unit up and running try playing one of the few demanding games that usually cause these to YLOD. if u can replicate that during one of these games then id possibly be leaning more towards doing this repair.

Dont reflow if u go down the reballing path its a waste of time and money.
Click to expand...
It's not necessary to reball, it's a NEC problem as @Naked_Snake1995 said.
 
Thank you everyone! Can someone please provide a tutorial on how to fix this NEC thing and will I be able to do this with no knowledge whatsoever?
 
Ok guys I did what you said and tried playing some games and I get ylod in some, often in the exact same spot. It 's weird that it happens in specific spots because they don't appear to be any more demanding for the ps3 than any other.
 
Hourman123 said:
I hope someone can help me with my problem.
My FAT console began to show ylod behaviour 6 months ago. It would behave exactly as any other ylod console. However after trying to turn it on X times, it will progressively stay on for more and more seconds until it finally boots and then it is able to stay on and behave normally for hours. If I turn it off and turn it on, it will start completely normally on the first try, but if I leave it off for hours, I will have to try X times again.

This leads me to believe that it somehow strangely only works after it "warms up" which doesn't make sense considering ylod usually occurs because of overheating, and it appears mine happens only when it is cold.
The fan isn't loud at all and the console isn't physically hot.

I was lead to believe that a ylod console is permanently dead but mine contions to function with it so hopefully it can be saved. I wasn't able to find a situation like mine anywhere on google

Any help will be much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Well, initially thats exactly what happens when there is a capacitor that is working a bit out of his range, the temperature increment modifyes the specs of the capacitor... sometimes for good like in your case (the temperature increase allows the capacitor to work normally), but sometimes is the other way around
In my experience i can tell the most probable thing to happen is exactly what you said

Next thing to consider is how many capacitors there are inside the PS3 :P
I use to suggest to start checking the PSU because the capacitors most prone to failure are the ones related with the main power lines, and the main power lines starts in the PSU
Also, because is a lot easyer to check the PSU than any other component, to check the PSU you just need to replace it by a different PSU, and you can do it for free (by using a PC ATX PSU temporally only for the test)
The next critical capacitors related with power lines that needs to be checked are the tokins (that are a very special type of capacitors)... but this is serious butchering... so check PSU first

What @wrx884 mentioned about the expansion of the BGA solder balls caused by the heat, and this expansion restoring the electrical conection of a BGA solder ball is something that can happen, is just the PS3 is going to be very unestable and i guess by using the PS3 you are going to notice it because is going to crash a lot randomnly
You can check this by increasing the pressure of the heatsink, this should make the PS3 a bit more stable, with this i mean... less crashes, but probably still some crash eventually because the "fracture" in the BGA ball is causing a lot of garbage data (or voltage ripples) permanently in the lines and eventually the CELL and RSX are going to throw the towell

With a capacitor is a lot more stable, like what i said at beginning, when the capacitor is hot the device works very well
 
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