PS3 How to Enable Hidden Blue/Red Light in PS3 SLIM

Not sure if you missed my point btw, but what i suggested about covering a cylinder with sandpaper all around is way softer than any file made of metal, so it would give you more precission than a file made of metal

Specially if you use a 3000-grit sandpaper (is the finest of the scale of sandpapers)
https://makezine.com/2016/05/10/wet-sanding-gives-your-projects-a-scratch-free-finish/

And i meant to use this "custom tool" only at the end, when you are getting close to the shape edge

I didn't miss you point lol. I have all sorts of stuff like that, various grades of sand paper for normal and wet sanding. The files i have do just the the same really, they are super fine. Even then not over applying force, meaning very gentle will achieve the same finish. I have done a few thing with plastic modification before, it can be a pain to work with.

The problem with the PS3 shell is going to be if when drilling it does not retain the normal black of the plastic, some times it can discolour the plastic the same way as if was snapped, plus the heat from the drill bit could do the same as well, go white or grey so some touching up may be needed.

It all depends how it goes as to the method and tools I use for the finish.
 
Do you guys think, now where the syscon keys where found, there would be a possibility to look how they where used to be? Or a way to controll them like fan modes via web man mod via software? Would be nice to have it red when turned off, blue when on, and purble/pink flashing when disc ejecting or something like that.

I wouldn't like temperature dependet cause I know that my console is running at around 63°C in game after a few minutes of game play and around 54-56°C in xmb so I don't se a use for that, it would alwys glow the same. after a time you will not recogize it anymore, for me would be boring. Idk but my ps3 never kick jumps to from 60 to 80°c for no reason soo .... XD press select+start so see temp. In addition to that I locked my fan at 65°C so when my ps3 over heatst I would also recogize it via the boing 747 sound effects :D so a thrid indication for temp? I know ps3 is a hot machine but common
Temp OSD and sound of fan is enough xD

additional ps4 like ambient bar would be awesome. Or it glows in different kinds of different games. Blue ps3, red ps2 pink ps1 or so.

I guess the doors are opened now. But after keys goes public I dind't see a thing some one is working on with that.

I don't know, if I could I would program you guys such a homebrew but I can't im a simple IT technician without any bigger software dev. experiences.

This feature only hits a very samll amout compared to all ps3 models and a even smaler amoit of people owning this ps3 models are interested in this feature. so I gues no dev have interest to prog something in weeks and month of hard work and only be downloaded from 20 freak nerds that whant such things like I WANT IT :D but let me dreaming.

Ps: for me these aren't simple leds, not like these shitty led mod bars glued into the system with plexiglas cutouts you can see on youtube are dead mods, turn them on, thats it.
No these leds are controlled by complex IC in many different kinds (in therory) and can controlled be automated software. THAT is my phascinating about this leds, im not one of those guys: "GIVE ME RGB LED TO RISE MY FPS" *spitting on screen* hahah

I always interested in mods that bring a planed but never done feature back to life like the IR sensor on PSP PHAT. Sony planed something with that, never did, the device is life time unused and bring them back to activate them. THESE are the kind of mods im love the most.
 
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Now that the syscon firmware can be decrypted and studied there are chances to find what they was trying to do with it... and eventually (incase there is a settings for it) to enable that original feature

All the leds in that subcircuit are driven by a single syscon pin btw... the fact that the group of leds is composed by several colors doesnt means you can cotroll them individually, is not designed like that
The way it works is all leds of the subcircuit are driven together, and every led has his own resistor with a different value (to control the intensity of that led)
So... the result is something like... red at 60% intensity + blue at 30% intensity = some kind of purple

Something interesting is that pin is used as a syscon output, but there could be a way to configure it as an input (and replace the leds by lets say... a button)... and after that to trigger some syscon code by pressing the button

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The better way to control that leds is with an external microcontroller... first i imagined it could be made with a PIC... that PIC could have a thermal sensor and run some program to control the led/s based on it
Later, while thinking a bit more on it i realized is not intuitive to show the temperature just by leds... i mean the info given to you is not good enought, and eventually could even be annoying

One day i was talking about all this with judges (who made norway/nandway for teensy), because the atmel microcontroller of the teensy had one pin "unused", and there was a bit of room to add some code to norway/nandway
So... he updated norway/nandway to add some led fireworks

The point of this is to connect teensy with the group of leds in the switch board... useful for people that installed teensy inside the PS3 permanently
As far i remember it does several led effects... when teensy is in standby it does a "heartbeat" pulse (in other words, when you use the PS3 normally), and in the other teensy modes (when reading or writing flash) it does different led effects
 
Now that the syscon firmware can be decrypted and studied there are chances to find what they was trying to do with it... and eventually (incase there is a settings for it) to enable that original feature

All the leds in that subcircuit are driven by a single syscon pin btw... the fact that the group of leds is composed by several colors doesnt means you can cotroll them individually, is not designed like that
The way it works is all leds of the subcircuit are driven together, and every led has his own resistor with a different value (to control the intensity of that led)
So... the result is something like... red at 60% intensity + blue at 30% intensity = some kind of purple

Something interesting is that pin is used as a syscon output, but there could be a way to configure it as an input (and replace the leds by lets say... a button)... and after that to trigger some syscon code by pressing the button

-------------
The better way to control that leds is with an external microcontroller... first i imagined it could be made with a PIC... that PIC could have a thermal sensor and run some program to control the led/s based on it
Later, while thinking a bit more on it i realized is not intuitive to show the temperature just by leds... i mean the info given to you is not good enought, and eventually could even be annoying

One day i was talking about all this with judges (who made norway/nandway for teensy), because the atmel microcontroller of the teensy had one pin "unused", and there was a bit of room to add some code to norway/nandway
So... he updated norway/nandway to add some led fireworks

The point of this is to connect teensy with the group of leds in the switch board... useful for people that installed teensy inside the PS3 permanently
As far i remember it does several led effects... when teensy is in standby it does a "heartbeat" pulse (in other words, when you use the PS3 normally), and in the other teensy modes (when reading or writing flash) it does different led effects

Never heard about this tenseey thing. Is this comparable to e3?
 
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Used mine from the PS3's 3.41 dongle days to turn it into a NAND flasher.
That first months of nandway development was an adventure in itself, i remember all the problems with interferences, the management of the different NAND flash models (some requires specific protocol settings), and voltages, there was a huge thread in ps3-hax (like 90 pages where most was technical posts). At that point i was dodging/ignoring all that info because i never needed it, but years later when i was writing the page in wiki i had to read that thread entirelly to understand it (and take notes to ask judges)... a huge nightmare, lol

At some point it become very stable, and there was a point when it was better than other flashers :)
 
That first months of nandway development was an adventure in itself, i remember all the problems with interferences, the management of the different NAND flash models (some requires specific protocol settings), and voltages, there was a huge thread in ps3-hax (like 90 pages where most was technical posts). At that point i was dodging/ignoring all that info because i never needed it, but years later when i was writing the page in wiki i had to read that thread entirelly to understand it (and take notes to ask judges)... a huge nightmare, lol

At some point it become very stable, and there was a point when it was better than other flashers :)


When mine got installed during the 4.46 days it was already very stable luckily.
 
I see the use of tesnsy for Nand and dual nand models ps3, but for nor, is there a benefit over the e3? I only needed a e3 once to get rid of an RSOD console to downgrade it back in the days, is this a bad method today to use the e3 on nor consoles? worked fine for me :)
 
e3 would be a LOT better if they didn't have toilet paper ribbon cables, and wonky clips...
I remember 2101 always was a problem if you didn't shave the plastic. fun stuffs
I remember people used to recommend a 360 clip, but nobody could ever find them... or they were very difficult to find.

Much happier with the web exploit over the flasher style exploiting.... less stress on the old heart. :)
 
e3 would be a LOT better if they didn't have toilet paper ribbon cables, and wonky clips...
I remember 2101 always was a problem if you didn't shave the plastic. fun stuffs
I remember people used to recommend a 360 clip, but nobody could ever find them... or they were very difficult to find.

Much happier with the web exploit over the flasher style exploiting.... less stress on the old heart. :)

Oh yeah I remember the struggle with the Clip, cuting it and so on xD and were VERY carefully with the cable ^^ after feeled 15 wrong reads and damaged binaries, I managed to get one good read xD after another 15 faild flashes of patched NOR I got my RSOD back to life xD works for years now despite everybody say my spanion (or Samsung?!) nor will fail quickly again. not for me bros, not for me hahaha :D but the e3 is pretty easy to use with it'S dip switches, even for a newbe are step by step tutorials pretty easy to imitate. sadly it did't work with our beloved NAND ps3's there it gets harder. never managed to unbrick a nand console :'(
 
Aside from the wonky quality of the official E3 it's even worse nowadays as there aren't official ones still being made only Chinese knock offs. But you can make the teensy++ solderless on the console side using a 360 clip and it's much more durable.
 
there is something similar on the 3ds if you use twilight menu (I think or its predecessor). it makes the activity light have a strobe-like effect. I've tried it before. it flashes through a rainbow of colors really fast.
 
there is something similar on the 3ds if you use twilight menu (I think or its predecessor). it makes the activity light have a strobe-like effect. I've tried it before. it flashes through a rainbow of colors really fast.
And they say PCs are the only ones with RGB LEDs [emoji23][emoji23][emoji304]

49896c6aa48f0fefac45a0e291f64f11.jpg


Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
Hello, I wan't to populate the second line on the hsw-001, what is the size of the leds and rezistors? and also what zenner diode should I buy?

THX
 
Hello, I wan't to populate the second line on the hsw-001, what is the size of the leds and rezistors? and also what zenner diode should I buy?

THX
The sizes are SMD 2x1x1 milimeters, usually are sold in a "lot" and comes shipped inside a plastic stripe
I bought 100 leds of 5 colors (20 each) for like 2€ free shipping

The diodes are optional, are a safety meassure to prevent the leds to burn when the voltage is cutted (there is a theory behind it im not going to try to explain)... but this doesnt uses to happen, is just sony is very careful sometimes when designing electronic circuits

And the value of the resistors is a personal preference, the intensity of the led light depends of it, as you can see in this image they was using either 750ohm or 1430ohm from factory... but you are free to use something in between 200ohm up to whatever you want
F9hZ7uC.jpg
 
The sizes are SMD 2x1x1 milimeters, usually are sold in a "lot" and comes shipped inside a plastic stripe
I bought 100 leds of 5 colors (20 each) for like 2€ free shipping
I wrote that from memory, but to be more accurate... as far i remember are named SMD 0805, like this ones
https://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/Dialight/599-0110-007F?qs=gTYE2QTfZfS0HtheKY0LlQ==
599_0805_SPL.jpg

https://ledstuff.co.nz/catalog/product/view/id/929/s/smd-led-0805-10-pack-white/
led-0805-05_1_3.jpg

And the stripes i mentioned are like this ones:
https://www.amazon.es/ILS-Piezas-Colores-Surtido-Amarillo/dp/B07MJC4BT8

The size is close to what i said, keep in mind we dont really need to use the same exact size, are tiny (you can burn the plastic with the solder iron by mistake when trying to solder it), and the most smaller you go the harder is to solder them
With this i mean... if the new leds are a bit bigger probably are going to be good enought... they are not going to fit perfect in the circuit and will be a bit displaced but doesnt matters, is ok :)
 
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I wrote that from memory, but to be more accurate... as far i remember are named SMD 0805, like this ones
https://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/Dialight/599-0110-007F?qs=gTYE2QTfZfS0HtheKY0LlQ==
599_0805_SPL.jpg

https://ledstuff.co.nz/catalog/product/view/id/929/s/smd-led-0805-10-pack-white/
led-0805-05_1_3.jpg

And the stripes i mentioned are like this ones:
https://www.amazon.es/ILS-Piezas-Colores-Surtido-Amarillo/dp/B07MJC4BT8

The size is close to what i said, keep in mind we dont really need to use the same exact size, are tiny (you can burn the plastic with the solder iron by mistake when trying to solder it), and the most smaller you go the harder is to solder them
With this i mean... if the new leds are a bit bigger probably are going to be good enought... they are not going to fit perfect in the circuit and will be a bit displaced but doesnt matters, is ok :)

Thank you very much
 
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