PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

SiegHart93 said:
That seems to be a CECHA/C or E model because it has the chromed trim, B models are hard to find even in the americas those models are ultra rare and hard to find one working properly sadly :/
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Those are rare in the US? Hmm, I should buy more then, because I'm hunting them lol. Where I live there's always one on sell, but sadly almost never you can see what kind of BC it is.
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
What can i say, another successful console brought from the dead, outstanding job lad [emoji106]

PS: Is that a CECHB on the left corner, i am so jealous when i see B Models, want to import one, but the European Import Taxes are a rip off, oh well... Vive la Europe? [emoji1787]

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
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Yes the one on the left cechb01 it is reballed with lead,the cechb,works flawlessly ,but only use to back up games,
P.s. going on 10 hours with newly repaired cechg01, works excellent I think even more responsive!
 
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ElGris said:
The voltaje is fine, you should put 4 per tokin on the RSX, 16 in total. On the CELL you can only put 8 from just one side. The RSX is the one that needs a lot of power, so that's why you need to replace all of them. After that it should boot, at least from what I saw with the ones I revived.
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Ok, I will try this, once I find the missing screw to close the thing back up.
So, I should change the NECs on the other side aswell.
I read something abount connecting the + rails together with a reasonably thick wire? Is this true?

And, one more thing, the case was not easy to close with this caps, as they are quite a bit larger than the NECs. Is it ok to cut this metal housing of the Mainboard with a dremel on the parts that touch the caps? Or will this harm the ps3 in any way?
 
hoyohoo said:
Ok, I will try this, once I find the missing screw to close the thing back up.
So, I should change the NECs on the other side aswell.
I read something abount connecting the + rails together with a reasonably thick wire? Is this true?

And, one more thing, the case was not easy to close with this caps, as they are quite a bit larger than the NECs. Is it ok to cut this metal housing of the Mainboard with a dremel on the parts that touch the caps? Or will this harm the ps3 in any way?
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If you use the 2.5v tantalum capacitors instead of the 6.3v, you won't have to cut the metal shield/housing.
 
ElGris said:
@hoyohoo I used these: https://media.rs-online.com/t_large/Y1820036-01.jpg (6.3v)

And had no problem with any of the PS3 I fixed, you have to use electrical tape, then put the metal cover as always. The wire has to short the positive site of the board, and in both sides of the board. Two wires in total, that's when you replace every NEC/T in either CELL or RSX.
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Yes I agree, I used 470 uf and 330 uf 25 volt caps of of junk cecha01,cechb01,ceche01 motherboards now I have to purchase some.....lol, I purchased tantalum caps they were in a envelope that my girlfriend threw in the garbage by mistake so I was determined to try this fix and was a good choice console cechg01 is still working fine since repair, I could have done much neater job but I didn't care. So I did it in a hurry, just making sure not to have any shorts in the repair . I was shocked! And happy, I used hot air station to remove caps off old motherboards, only used solder gun for positive jumper.wire was from old extension cord..lol, I also used hot air station to reattach caps, also used leaded flux paste instead of soldering wire. I also used black tape to cover my butcher job but hey it works mint now no problem I am truly shocked:sfun oldguy: :Tupakaveli:
 
Yugonibblit said:
Yes I agree, I used 470 uf and 330 uf 25 volt caps of of junk cecha01,cechb01,ceche01 motherboards now I have to purchase some.....lol, I purchased tantalum caps they were in a envelope that my girlfriend threw in the garbage by mistake so I was determined to try this fix and was a good choice console cechg01 is still working fine since repair, I could have done much neater job but I didn't care. So I did it in a hurry, just making sure not to have any shorts in the repair . I was shocked! And happy, I used hot air station to remove caps off old motherboards, only used solder gun for positive jumper.wire was from old extension cord..lol, I also used hot air station to reattach caps, also used leaded flux paste instead of soldering wire. I also used black tape to cover my butcher job but hey it works mint now no problem I am truly shocked:sfun oldguy: :Tupakaveli:
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Hahaha, same with me, I couldn't believe this was the fault all the time. I just reached Boston in TLoU with my CECHA and it's awesome to play it on this old mothership lol. It runs 69/67 ºC with the fan at 35% which is decent for having that internal PSU.
I recommend you to use heat gun only when removing the NECs, later you can only use the solder iron. This to prevent any disgrace with the processors. This hunting is not over, NOT YET.
 
ElGris said:
Hahaha, same with me, I couldn't believe this was the fault all the time. I just reached Boston in TLoU with my CECHA and it's awesome to play it on this old mothership lol. It runs 69/67 ºC with the fan at 35% which is decent for having that internal PSU.
I recommend you to use heat gun only when removing the NECs, later you can only use the solder iron. This to prevent any disgrace with the processors. This hunting is not over, NOT YET.
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Yes I agree about heat gun, I was in a hurry...lol, I said f... it. I will not use it on a cherished BC console! Just wanted to test the idea and I am pleased with the success! Rock on @Naked_Snake1995 ! @ElGris !
 
I now added another 4 caps in total, 2 to RSX, 2 to CPU. Still nothing. It is like the caps weren't even in there. YLOD after 3 seconds max.
The caps are tested and all have their min. of 470 µF, some have about 500. But the caps are rated 470µF +- 10%, so it is ok.
What I found is that the resistance between + and - on the board of this strips for the caps are 1,6 Ohms for the RSX, but about 3,2 Ohms for the CPU. Is this ok?
Should I now remove the NECs on the other side? I only have 4 caps left, unfortunately, I was expecting 20 to be enough :(
 
For the bottom board without rsx and cell present it usually 16 tan caps to replace all 4 tokin but it depends per ylod. Once I get the cechc03 in my hand sometime next week I'm going to start testing the low and high value reading before and after the nec tokin and tan caps to try pin point which side needed replacing. Since I have 32 tan caps on hand and 8 new nec tokin on hand here. I was thinking of using the old nec tokin that I took off few weeks back and add thick gauge wires to it this way I can attach it to the board to give some boost in uf value to see if it helps one nec tokin on either side of board to determine which one is failing. Since I been thinking about the 7 nec tokin I took off I pick the lowest value to be used as a tester so it be on the safe side without wasting more tan caps :)
 
hoyohoo said:
I now added another 4 caps in total, 2 to RSX, 2 to CPU. Still nothing. It is like the caps weren't even in there. YLOD after 3 seconds max.
The caps are tested and all have their min. of 470 µF, some have about 500. But the caps are rated 470µF +- 10%, so it is ok.
What I found is that the resistance between + and - on the board of this strips for the caps are 1,6 Ohms for the RSX, but about 3,2 Ohms for the CPU. Is this ok?
Should I now remove the NECs on the other side? I only have 4 caps left, unfortunately, I was expecting 20 to be enough :(
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Could you upload a photo of both sides? That PS3 definitely is trying to boot. Maybe the CELL needs a few caps as well. Keep in mind that some NECs need to be removed in other to booting it, 'cause some of those are in really bad shape. As I mentioned before, I made turn on a CECHG by removing every NEC in the bottom side, before that I only got a YLOD.
 
very very dope, one time i dont see bullshitz like reballing of reflow the most accuring is that the CPU is overheated, delidd it but be fuckin carefull and itz goin to work again, my A01 still workz to this day and im sure it will never really beak cuz itz cold and i did put some chilly thermal padz onto the NECs, workz fine but thats tue that they break but very rarely ;)
 
Some fresh thoughs of mine. NECs internals has a bridge-shaped form, positive layer lays over ground, right? And that area is pretty damn big. So it can be easily affected when someone messing with a board. Maybe weight tests and hairdryer methods primarely affects that wide, thin and probably gentle area.
 
This is hopefully my last posting in this topic, as it seems to be done. I now have 8 caps on the opposite side of the RSX, 6 on the opposite side of the CPU. And 6 caps right unter the RSX, so 14 in total for CPU and 6 for CPU. I also connected the + terminals of the caps right under the RSX using wires, as mentioned here. And what can I say: It really seems to be fixed.
I could successfully play PSX, PS2 and PS3 games, I even managed to install a CFW. I have a CECHC04 Model by the way, thats why it plays PS2 too :D (well, with the CFW all of them might, I dont know).
I want to thank anyone in ths thread again, who helped me and a special thanks for Naked Snake1995 for making such a wonderful thread and tutorial to begin with.
 
Here's a strange one.

I fixed another launch console (CECHE) doing the 50/50 method (replaced NEC/TOKINs from top side of the board, left the ones next to the RSX/CPU alone).

I loaded Last of Us and during the loading screen with the sparkling dust, it gave me the YLOD (hard drive cover was on). I powered it back on and it did the file system check then booted up to XMB. I launched the game again and it loaded just fine. I played to the part where you wake up 20 years later. It didn't give me the YLOD this time (hard drive cover removed).

I'm wondering if I need to replace the rest of the NEC/TOKINs since they may have warmed up enough the second time around. What do you guys think?

This console has been delidded (RSX and CPU). Could it have been the hard drive cover (slightly cooler with it off)?
 
pure3d2 said:
Here's a strange one.

I fixed another launch console (CECHE) doing the 50/50 method (replaced NEC/TOKINs from top side of the board, left the ones next to the RSX/CPU alone).

I loaded Last of Us and during the loading screen with the sparkling dust, it gave me the YLOD (hard drive cover was on). I powered it back on and it did the file system check then booted up to XMB. I launched the game again and it loaded just fine. I played to the part where you wake up 20 years later. It didn't give me the YLOD this time (hard drive cover removed).

I'm wondering if I need to replace the rest of the NEC/TOKINs since they may have warmed up enough the second time around. What do you guys think?

This console has been delidded (RSX and CPU). Could it have been the hard drive cover (slightly cooler with it off)?
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I wouldn't think so... I doubt that space would provide significant change in the air flow, especially with the amount of shielding around that spot.
 
pure3d2 said:
Here's a strange one.

I fixed another launch console (CECHE) doing the 50/50 method (replaced NEC/TOKINs from top side of the board, left the ones next to the RSX/CPU alone).

I loaded Last of Us and during the loading screen with the sparkling dust, it gave me the YLOD (hard drive cover was on). I powered it back on and it did the file system check then booted up to XMB. I launched the game again and it loaded just fine. I played to the part where you wake up 20 years later. It didn't give me the YLOD this time (hard drive cover removed).

I'm wondering if I need to replace the rest of the NEC/TOKINs since they may have warmed up enough the second time around. What do you guys think?

This console has been delidded (RSX and CPU). Could it have been the hard drive cover (slightly cooler with it off)?
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if u have a heat gun , just heat the nec tokins left with 360º within 3 mins and 30 secs
 
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