PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Dark Paladin said:
Yep yep, definitely will be doing that.

Fortunately my Google-Fu was on point tonight. Found the PS3 service manual and identified the missing caps. Now just have to source the parts, and then figure out how the frak to solder them back on. . .
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What about soldering on the ones that came off or are they damaged...? Yeah they will be a pain to solder with being so small.
 
Cypher_CG89 said:
What about soldering on the ones that came off or are they damaged...? Yeah they will be a pain to solder with being so small.
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I've only managed to locate 1 out of the 3 when I tipped the board over just for grins and giggles. The other 2 has disappeared into the nethers and probably won't be seen again until the end of times. . .
 
Dark Paladin said:
I've only managed to locate 1 out of the 3 when I tipped the board over just for grins and giggles. The other 2 has disappeared into the nethers and probably won't be seen again until the end of times. . .
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Those are 100nF (0.1uF) caps. Are you in the US? If you are, I can send you a set, free of charge.
 
Dark Paladin said:
Yep, am in the US. Definitely appreciate the assist. Any pointers on how to solder them back on?
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You need a pair of fine tip tweezers. Hold the cap in place, touch the soldering iron tip to the pad and the cap on one side, hold for 1-2 seconds to let the solder melt. Use flux if the solder isn't flowing well. Repeat for the other side.

PM me your address info and I will send it out first thing on Tuesday (Post Office is closed on Monday because it's Presidents' Day).

Will 5 of them be enough in case you lose a few? They're tiny.
 
What you need is a steady hand while soldering them back on or use soldering paste and hotair station but got to be careful to not create a bridge under the smd
 
Edwired said:
What you need is a steady hand while soldering them back on or use soldering paste and hotair station but got to be careful to not create a bridge under the smd
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Will do. @pure3d2 has graciously offered to send me some replacement caps, so as soon as they arrive I will get started on the soldering.

And if I haven't mentioned it before, thanks everyone here for building a supportive and collaborative community.
 
I have good lot of spares smd here incase i knock off any. Im just hoping i dont the break this ps3 im getting in the post since im still waiting...
@Dark Paladin
Make sure you use plenty of flux to make the soldering easier if ya got tacky flux that a plus
 
So...
A friend of mine tried to fix my console but it still doesn't boot up. Any advice here? :(
Here is the Startup video:
https://i.imgur.com/WwpB6ds.mp4

QGIxMXa.jpg
 
Gehirnstaub said:
So...
A friend of mine tried to fix my console but it still doesn't boot up. Any advice here? :(
Here is the Startup video:
https://i.imgur.com/WwpB6ds.mp4

QGIxMXa.jpg
Click to expand...
It doesn't boot because, the job was done improperly, if you want to solder then straight, you'll have to interconnect the VIAS, and scrape a path with them, otherwise it won't make the necessary connection.

I don't have an example here, but in fact go to YouTube and a YouTuber by the name of NSC made a video about it and how to solder them properly, by scrapping the layer on the board, and you'll get my meaning,that what you have there is barely touching the vias, and some of them are not properly aligned, so i suggest to redo the whole work with patience and slowly.

Good luck.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
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Naked_Snake1995 said:
It doesn't boot because, the job was done improperly, if you want to solder then straight, you'll have to interconnect the VIAS, and scrape a path with them, otherwise it won't make the necessary connection. [...]
Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
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My friend is pretty sure that everything "sits" how it should but he said I should ask this:
"When I took 4 NEC-Capacitors off the board, I still measured a short between the positiv pad and ground without replacing them. Doesn't this mean that at least on of the other 4 Capacitors on the backside is still faulty?"
 
Gehirnstaub said:
My friend is pretty sure that everything "sits" how it should but he said I should ask this:
"When I took 4 NEC-Capacitors off the board, I still measured a short between the positiv pad and ground without replacing them. Doesn't this mean that at least on of the other 4 Capacitors on the backside is still faulty?"
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If there is a short, possibilities are that there is still a NEC that is faulty, now which one is, is quite a dilemma, because there is no accurate way to diagnose which one are good and which ones are faulty, that is the most painful part of it, if Tantalums don't help, you can always revert back to the original NEC/TOKINs, they are still for sale, and are guaranteed to work if you get the original spec, the problem is, the problem are bound to come back after 1/2 years of use, they aren't exactly the most reliable Capacitors on earth,but what destroys the reliability of the NECs is always heat, due to they're sensitive nature.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
From my experience those capacitors are always in short, and that doesn't mean they're faulty. The conectivity of CELL traces is a little bit wierd or uncommon for me, and pretty sure it's for most of the people who work with electronics. Around the CELL are always a few caps in short, and that's normal, but that's when you don't know if it's a normal "short" or a real short, then you need to take off the CELL (most of the times is the RSX) to do so measurements to see if the problem is in the processor or some ceramic capacitor, or even those NECs. From what I see in your video, you need to either to reflow the RSX, rework it (reballing) or replace it. Once you replace every NEC on the RSX, and some on the CELL, and you're sure you didn't damage anything, or atemp to do some delid, then it's pretty sure you need to do that.

I have now a CECHE in the same condition. The console booted but needed a delid, when I opened I saw that the clamps were bent (SO BENT) and well, a screw of the clamp was even damaged. After I delidded the CELL, well, it now happens what you have on yours, and that's because by using excesive force on both processors due those bent clamps, the tin balls cracked, and needs a rework, simple as that.

Your PS3 always did instant YLOD or it was longer than that before replacing those NECs?
 
Gehirnstaub said:
My friend is pretty sure that everything "sits" how it should but he said I should ask this:
"When I took 4 NEC-Capacitors off the board, I still measured a short between the positiv pad and ground without replacing them. Doesn't this mean that at least on of the other 4 Capacitors on the backside is still faulty?"
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Your friend is probably wrong about the caps being seated and soldered right. I'm sorry but there's a reason the solder jobs you see that work here are either slanted or involve removing masking. It's because it's the only way to get a good solid connection.

So yah either talk to your friend about cleaning up and fixing the placement of these caps or take it to a pro. Because a good solid connection is the most important thing when it comes to soldering and those joints are suspect on the basis alone of being soldered to tiny vias with no masking removed.
 
Gehirnstaub said:
Nope, same behavior before replacing the NECs. I compared them both.
https://twitter.com/i/status/1081310322475106304

I guess the console is then dead. :crushed:
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I wouldn't declare it already dead, simply the job was poorly done, redoing the soldering properly i am sure you can bring that DECHA00A back to life, worth the try only because is a DECHA00A.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
Gehirnstaub said:
Nope, same behavior before replacing the NECs. I compared them both.
https://twitter.com/i/status/1081310322475106304

I guess the console is then dead. :crushed:
Click to expand...
Seriously my dude just get the soldering of the tantalum done properly not with your friends hack job. That's probably the actual damn issue. My very first time soldering I though I ruined an xbox, but no I just had bad solder joints. And thats almost certainly the issue here with trying to solder to tiny vias and then expecting the capacitors to work properly.

Naked snake literally told you that right out, but instead of trusting that we know a good joint when we see it you go on a "but mah friend said it's good". Anyone here can pretty much see that those are not going to cut it.

This unit is NOT beyond being brought to life, but the job needs to be done correctly.
 
Gehirnstaub said:
Nope, same behavior before replacing the NECs. I compared them both.
https://twitter.com/i/status/1081310322475106304

I guess the console is then dead. :crushed:
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Right that only means the NECs weren't the problem from the get go. Try reflowing the RSX with a good amount of flux, if that doesn't work, then you need to do rework on it, or in worst scenario, a RSX change. Don't worry, that PS3 will resurrect, I'm sure of that.
 
@Squiglemouse To be honest, I don't see anything wrong with the mounting of the caps, yeah, sure it can be better, but I don't think this is the problem here, 'cause the PS3 is behaving just like before, and that's due a faulty RSX (a short on it) or cracked balls/bad contact. Also, he needs to use kapton tape or insulating tape to avoid any short when mounting everything, but as I said before, the short was even before he replaced the NECs.
 
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