PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

ElGris said:
@Squiglemouse To be honest, I don't see anything wrong with the mounting of the caps, yeah, sure it can be better, but I don't think this is the problem here, 'cause the PS3 is behaving just like before, and that's due a faulty RSX (a short on it) or cracked balls/bad contact. Also, he needs to use kapton tape or insulating tape to avoid any short when mounting everything, but as I said before, the short was even before he replaced the NECs.
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@ElGris
Exactly. It's a questionable job. No kapton. No electrical tape. It's sloppy at best. I'm less than willing to trust the work of someone who fails to even protect the reworked spot from shorts.

Same way I wouldn't trust someone who tries to fix an electrical cord with electrical tape.
 
Got the ps3 this morning did all i can to get it to boot then did the back of the board all 4 nec tokins for 16 tans caps tried again same ylod then tried the top nec tokin where the cell and rsx is prensent did the 16 tan caps along with the thick gauge wire to bridge it still nothing. I dont know what to do from this point on. So i decided enough is enough spend too much time buying faulty ps3. But i have a few projects to makes parts from the ps3 such as fans, power supplies and ps3 plastic body.

Here one i decided to make a ps3 stack shelf so it have it usefulness :) sorry about the mess and a blurry image just currently cleaning up the room at the moment
PS3 shelf.jpg
 
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Edwired said:
Got the ps3 this morning did all i can to get it to boot then did the back of the board all 4 nec tokins for 16 tans caps tried again same ylod then tried the top nec tokin where the cell and rsx is prensent did the 16 tan caps along with the thick gauge wire to bridge it still nothing. I dont know what to do from this point on. So i decided enough is enough spend too much time buying faulty ps3. But i have a few projects to makes parts from the ps3 such as fans, power supplies and ps3 plastic body.

Here one i decided to make a ps3 stack shelf so it have it usefulness :) sorry about the mess and a blurry image just currently cleaning up the room at the moment
View attachment 24089
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Don't you have a CECHA for Naked_Snake's charity donation, by any chance? [emoji1787]

I mean nice ornaments, but I would do it with some other Phat PS3s, but not BC ones, its painful to watch, and thoes poor PlayStation2s [emoji22][emoji23]

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
The ps2 inside are working one of them have the original network adapter with 120gb ide hard drive with 16mb memory card that have the latest mcfreeboot for booting games from the hard drive. All the ps3 in that picture are the cechc03 cant afford to buy more ps3 since i had enough trouble trying to repair them
 
Cypher_CG89 said:
No charity ... but £350 + Shipping will get you CECHA00 thats brand new....:-p:D
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350£? Mate, 200 quid a pint, and if you guarantee it will work, and I'll think about it [emoji23][emoji482]

But, jokes aside 350£ for a A Model its kinda of a luxury, specially when you know they are bound to fail, not even a brand new PS4 Pro costs that much [emoji848]

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
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For people traying to use liquid metal, they should watch this before doing it


@Cypher_CG89 I have between my eyes a CECHA00 with a not so nice look for 85usd, working just fine. What do you think? (I also bought what I think it's a CECHA with the original warranty sticker on it for only 73usd + 2 original DS3s). I think it's really cheap, but how's that where you live? Or even american people?

P/S: I'm not sure about that A00, I'm starting to think I need to sell a pair of the ones I fixed in order to get that one lol.
 
Squiglemouse said:
@Dariush Aghaee Okay so let me make sure I understand. He used liquid metal. Didn't do anything to protect that the liquid metal wouldn't end up where it shouldn't be. Sounds to me like the liquid metal could have worked its way out and shorted something.
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You're right. If you drop a molecule of it on the motherboard or somewhere else you could get unwanted unfix able results but that PS3 used to work after the delid job. Is it possible to the liquid metal to be relocated due to a sudden movement like a shake or something? My own answer is "no it's not possible!"
So is there any other YLOD possible reasons except nec caps or heat problems?
 
Dariush Aghaee said:
You're right. If you drop a molecule of it on the motherboard or somewhere else you could get unwanted unfix able results but that PS3 used to work after the delid job. Is it possible to the liquid metal to be relocated due to a sudden movement like a shake or something? My own answer is "no it's not possible!"
So is there any other YLOD possible reasons except nec caps or heat problems?
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If he had taken proper protection against shorts sure. The pros take a view of make it airtight. Don't give it even a remote chance to touch other stuff. Further the rsx under the ihs has a bunch of tiny component that could be ripe in such a situation to short that are in relatively close proximity.

After all as you already noted even a single drop of the stuff can cause a short. further it seems like you indicated that from what you understand about how his install was done there was no safety measures taken.

The alternative theorys this leave us is bassically the rsx just failed out of nowhere from previously working. Or that the tantalum install one done poorly. I'm of the view its i poorly done install. But I'd still consider the liquid metal causing a short killing the rsx before I would think it just died out of the blue.
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
and if you guarantee it will work, and I'll think about it
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Has less than 10 hours run time, warranty sticker intact boxed (OG box is undamaged), everything on it is brand new, in its packaging. It was bought, then bearly used than packed away, the guy I bought it from in Tokyo has an insane amount of PS3's that are in the same condition> bought and bearly used, special editions, limited editions. Well worth what you pay for them if your a collector.

So when I say brand new I mean brand new, that's why I paid so much for it, he proved all this before I even bought it, even had the OG receipt with the purchase date on it > launch day of the PS3 in Japan.

Naked_Snake1995 said:
But, jokes aside 350£ for a A Model its kinda of a luxury, specially when you know they are bound to fail, not even a brand new PS4 Pro costs that much
emoji848.png
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It's a collectors item mate, in mint condition. I have had it out of its box once since I bought it. I did buy it just for PS2 games but now its purely for the collection and I am going to buy another BC Phat for my PS2 games.

ElGris said:
CECHA00 with a not so nice look for 85usd, working just fine. What do you think?
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$85 USD to me is only £65.77, that's £20 - £30 cheaper than going and buying one from my local CeX, which normally has a few BC Phat PS3's in at a time but you have no idea what condition they are inside them as they don't open them to check but they do come with a 24 month warranty which is a bonus.

ElGris said:
I also bought what I think it's a CECHA with the original warranty sticker on it for only 73usd + 2 original DS3s). I think it's really cheap, but how's that where you live?
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Again $ 73 USD to me is only £56.49, so that cheap with the 2 controllers, you normally get a controller from CeX with them so the extra one would be like an extra £25, from my perspective that's a good deal.
 
So I want to try this fix on my old CECHL01 but this capacitors are not sold in my country, I already looked for them. In aliexpress they sell them but I found out they also sell a complete replacement for the 0E128 part.

What would you guys recommend? Going for the tantalum (2.5 or 6.3?) caps or getting the 0E128 replacement for a cleaner job?
 
Badigadi said:
So I want to try this fix on my old CECHL01 but this capacitors are not sold in my country, I already looked for them. In aliexpress they sell them but I found out they also sell a complete replacement for the 0E128 part.

What would you guys recommend? Going for the tantalum (2.5 or 6.3?) caps or getting the 0E128 replacement for a cleaner job?
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It depends of what kind of YLOD you have. If the YLOD appears after at least 4 seconds after turning it on, then you need to change those caps, but if it is an instant YLOD like the one of the guy above, then the problem probably is somewhere else. About your question, use 2.5 or 6.3v tantalums, NECs are crap.
 
Alright peeps, so I dug up the youtube videos Naked Snake suggested, from a channel called NSC Modz, and it was... interesting. The main takeaway, really, was where exactly to scratch away the solder mask so you have more room to install the tantalums. I'd definitely not watch the whole thing, just jump to around the 00:56:00 mark, where he shows where to remove the mask, and why, and then 1:04:00, where he removes the mask.

Things he did well:
  • Explains clearly where to remove the mask
Things he did I would not recommend
  • He harvested the tantalums from the top of the board, instead of sourcing new ones. That was probably the most baffling event in the video.
  • He used a combination of electric grill and and industrial heat gun to remove the tokins. The finished job looks very neat and clean, and the tokins are intact afterwards, so kudos there! But you can see, starting around 56:11, how a number of smc caps got knocked out of place.
  • He used a screw driver to scratch the masking. He was very careful, and seemed to not have done any further damage, so kudos there too. But it would take just a carefully placed whoopsie, and now you have a nice gouge on the board.
  • We never did see if the repair actually worked.
I'm not trying to be overly harsh! I'm just saying that a number of things he did are definitely recommended, especially if you're new to soldering. What I'd do instead is
  • Get a good grade heat gun that is meant for repair work. Just as an example, here's one that Voultar recommends -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR2IWBN (~$40)
  • Use a fiberglass pen to scratch off the masking -- they're only around $10 on amazon. I'd imagine you can also use very fine sand paper, but I haven't tried that myself. Just please don't use a screw driver.
  • Don't use an electric grill! Just be patient, and use flux.
  • Watch lots of tutorials on soldering - Voultar has a few, and just about anything out of EEVBlog is excellent
  • Buy new caps. Research so far tends to show that lower voltage ones (in the 2.5v range) are cheaper than the 6.3v, at the same UF range.

Here's the link, finally. Posted at the end so people will hopefully read my ramblings before they go clicking on it :)
 
You dont need to scratch anything.
His video is to be taken with a grain of salt.
Just connect the negative sites together and in the opposite site of each token.


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marciolsf said:
Alright peeps, so I dug up the youtube videos Naked Snake suggested, from a channel called NSC Modz, and it was... interesting. The main takeaway, really, was where exactly to scratch away the solder mask so you have more room to install the tantalums. I'd definitely not watch the whole thing, just jump to around the 00:56:00 mark, where he shows where to remove the mask, and why, and then 1:04:00, where he removes the mask.

Things he did well:
  • Explains clearly where to remove the mask
Things he did I would not recommend
  • He harvested the tantalums from the top of the board, instead of sourcing new ones. That was probably the most baffling event in the video.
  • He used a combination of electric grill and and industrial heat gun to remove the tokins. The finished job looks very neat and clean, and the tokins are intact afterwards, so kudos there! But you can see, starting around 56:11, how a number of smc caps got knocked out of place.
  • He used a screw driver to scratch the masking. He was very careful, and seemed to not have done any further damage, so kudos there too. But it would take just a carefully placed whoopsie, and now you have a nice gouge on the board.
  • We never did see if the repair actually worked.
I'm not trying to be overly harsh! I'm just saying that a number of things he did are definitely recommended, especially if you're new to soldering. What I'd do instead is
  • Get a good grade heat gun that is meant for repair work. Just as an example, here's one that Voultar recommends -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR2IWBN (~$40)
  • Use a fiberglass pen to scratch off the masking -- they're only around $10 on amazon. I'd imagine you can also use very fine sand paper, but I haven't tried that myself. Just please don't use a screw driver.
  • Don't use an electric grill! Just be patient, and use flux.
  • Watch lots of tutorials on soldering - Voultar has a few, and just about anything out of EEVBlog is excellent
  • Buy new caps. Research so far tends to show that lower voltage ones (in the 2.5v range) are cheaper than the 6.3v, at the same UF range.

Here's the link, finally. Posted at the end so people will hopefully read my ramblings before they go clicking on it :)
Click to expand...

The board he used in this video is a scrap board. The two main takeaways from his video are:

1) Use a preheater so that you can use hot air to remove the NEC TOKINs without burning them or scraping them off and potentially damaging a good board. Since it's a scrap board, he didn't care about knocking off the surrounding SMDs.
2) In order to solder the tantalum capacitors straight vs at an angle, you'll have to expose some solder mask.

That's what you get for skipping around. :)
 
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