PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

zdenko said:
Been looking through this post for 3 weeks now.
Lets just say I made a mistake and only read the first couple pages and then referred to Youtube afterwards and stupidly removed a Tokin without reading further...
Even done the dumb thing of trying some electrolytic caps to replace it as I already had some from a PC motherboard repair many years ago.

Before that mistake I just opened the PS3 up and cleaned out all the dust. Was not to bad. The CPU and GPU paste was not the best though.

So now that I have got up to page 90 I am more educated but need to still read more. I have skimmed through some other pages.

Need to read more about this SYSCON dump, but I think I may have tried booting way to many times, plus disconnected the battery to see the original faults.


Anyhow.
I have a CECHC02 (Australian 240V Launch Unit bought new, we did not get A or B's here as our launch was late March 2007)
It was reballed for a YLOD back in January 2013. It was reflowed unbeknown to me twice before that by the same repairer in 2012, when I payed for a reball. As you could imagine I was very impressed, not, when he told me that upon taking it for the 3rd repair in 7 months after the 6 month's warranty.
I did always have GT6 crashing from the day the game came out.
It worked pretty much OK for all other games all the way until May this year.
My YLOD this time happened mid game in God of War Ascension. It had previously crashed in this game a few times, but I have heard of the game being buggy so I did not think much of it.

At power up I have my YLOD in 1-2 seconds.(before and after removing 1 RSX Tokin, with and without Electrolytic replacement)
The fan does turn on.
I have tested the Power supply and it seems fine. All 5V's are there and so is the 12V.
I have tried the pressure test with no result.
I do have 0.2Ohms between the + and ground on Tokins for both RSX and Cell!!! That sounds like a short to me, but both??? It does not look like I have shorted the rails with my initial solder job.
I do however get a O/P on the CRO in the very short boot time. Only from the RSX as that is easy to get the CRO on with the EMI shield affixed.
I have one with the Electrolytic connected which I did with extension wires and one with just the pads and and no cap.
I will aim to get them up later as I am learning this forum format.
Lets just say they look nothing like previous CRO O/P images posted up with a short. More like ones that have OKish caps.
So I am stumped so far.


So I don't have to read another 100 pages, can someone direct me to a link that explains SYSCON please. Really wpould like to do the dump to see what did break originally and if I have broken anything else since.
Click to expand...
Here is a video we made some time ago about the SYSCON connection. You can follow the timestamps and skip as yo go. The video is long but really should take few minutes.
Also it includes written instructions.

Cheers
 
zdenko said:
Been looking through this post for 3 weeks now.
Lets just say I made a mistake and only read the first couple pages and then referred to Youtube afterwards and stupidly removed a Tokin without reading further...
Even done the dumb thing of trying some electrolytic caps to replace it as I already had some from a PC motherboard repair many years ago.

Before that mistake I just opened the PS3 up and cleaned out all the dust. Was not to bad. The CPU and GPU paste was not the best though.

So now that I have got up to page 90 I am more educated but need to still read more. I have skimmed through some other pages.

Need to read more about this SYSCON dump, but I think I may have tried booting way to many times, plus disconnected the battery to see the original faults.


Anyhow.
I have a CECHC02 (Australian 240V Launch Unit bought new, we did not get A or B's here as our launch was late March 2007)
It was reballed for a YLOD back in January 2013. It was reflowed unbeknown to me twice before that by the same repairer in 2012, when I payed for a reball. As you could imagine I was very impressed, not, when he told me that upon taking it for the 3rd repair in 7 months after the 6 month's warranty.
I did always have GT6 crashing from the day the game came out.
It worked pretty much OK for all other games all the way until May this year.
My YLOD this time happened mid game in God of War Ascension. It had previously crashed in this game a few times, but I have heard of the game being buggy so I did not think much of it.

At power up I have my YLOD in 1-2 seconds.(before and after removing 1 RSX Tokin, with and without Electrolytic replacement)
The fan does turn on.
I have tested the Power supply and it seems fine. All 5V's are there and so is the 12V.
I have tried the pressure test with no result.
I do have 0.2Ohms between the + and ground on Tokins for both RSX and Cell!!! That sounds like a short to me, but both??? It does not look like I have shorted the rails with my initial solder job.
I do however get a O/P on the CRO in the very short boot time. Only from the RSX as that is easy to get the CRO on with the EMI shield affixed.
I have one with the Electrolytic connected which I did with extension wires and one with just the pads and and no cap.
I will aim to get them up later as I am learning this forum format.
Lets just say they look nothing like previous CRO O/P images posted up with a short. More like ones that have OKish caps.
So I am stumped so far.


So I don't have to read another 100 pages, can someone direct me to a link that explains SYSCON please. Really wpould like to do the dump to see what did break originally and if I have broken anything else since.
Click to expand...
About 0.2 ohms on CPU and RSX cores... Do you think it's possible that you are reading it wrong? And it's actually 2 ohms?
Because yeah 0.2 means you should not even try powering on.
But 2 ohms is perfectly fine.

It is actually very interesting what you say about intensive loads such as Gran Turismo "crashing" (from day 1!)
By "crashing" you mean "shutdown", 3 beeps and blinking red yes?

Also even more interesting that you say this machine was reflowed couple times which lasted little and then actually reballed which lasted many years until now, with shutdown under load in heavy game too.

I'm very interested to see what your SYSCON says. Because this can be one of the interesting ones really.

Lastly, I think it's a real shame that new people like you need to dig through so much misinformation. It's no wonder that we end up where we are. It's high time the original post should be edited in some way or another. If not by the OP, then by moderators. A simple clear warning at the beginning could go a long way for all the newcomers.
(The irony being that your particular case could actually be the 3%... capacitors hehe. But even then, no point going in blind when it can be diagnosed first)

Good luck
 
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zdenko said:
Been looking through this post for 3 weeks now.
Lets just say I made a mistake and only read the first couple pages and then referred to Youtube afterwards and stupidly removed a Tokin without reading further...
Even done the dumb thing of trying some electrolytic caps to replace it as I already had some from a PC motherboard repair many years ago.

Before that mistake I just opened the PS3 up and cleaned out all the dust. Was not to bad. The CPU and GPU paste was not the best though.

So now that I have got up to page 90 I am more educated but need to still read more. I have skimmed through some other pages.

Need to read more about this SYSCON dump, but I think I may have tried booting way to many times, plus disconnected the battery to see the original faults.


Anyhow.
I have a CECHC02 (Australian 240V Launch Unit bought new, we did not get A or B's here as our launch was late March 2007)
It was reballed for a YLOD back in January 2013. It was reflowed unbeknown to me twice before that by the same repairer in 2012, when I payed for a reball. As you could imagine I was very impressed, not, when he told me that upon taking it for the 3rd repair in 7 months after the 6 month's warranty.
I did always have GT6 crashing from the day the game came out.
It worked pretty much OK for all other games all the way until May this year.
My YLOD this time happened mid game in God of War Ascension. It had previously crashed in this game a few times, but I have heard of the game being buggy so I did not think much of it.

At power up I have my YLOD in 1-2 seconds.(before and after removing 1 RSX Tokin, with and without Electrolytic replacement)
The fan does turn on.
I have tested the Power supply and it seems fine. All 5V's are there and so is the 12V.
I have tried the pressure test with no result.
I do have 0.2Ohms between the + and ground on Tokins for both RSX and Cell!!! That sounds like a short to me, but both??? It does not look like I have shorted the rails with my initial solder job.
I do however get a O/P on the CRO in the very short boot time. Only from the RSX as that is easy to get the CRO on with the EMI shield affixed.
I have one with the Electrolytic connected which I did with extension wires and one with just the pads and and no cap.
I will aim to get them up later as I am learning this forum format.
Lets just say they look nothing like previous CRO O/P images posted up with a short. More like ones that have OKish caps.
So I am stumped so far.


So I don't have to read another 100 pages, can someone direct me to a link that explains SYSCON please. Really wpould like to do the dump to see what did break originally and if I have broken anything else since.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the party! Many of us have made that same mistake.... I wish there was a way to redirect people directly to some of the key developments we've done! It would spare people a lot of trouble!

Anyway, Paco send you the video -- here's our thread on the same topic https://www.psx-place.com/threads/fault-finding-ylod-with-the-syscon-first-steps-and-error-reporting

The very first post has a link to a github site with more guides, plus a windows application that can be used instead of the command line script. If all you want is the error code (so you can at least get a feel of where you are), then the process is very, very simple, and you won't need to get into low-level mode, fix checksums and all that stuff.
 
Norrecito said:
Hello,

I have recently picked up PS3 fat (CECHC04) that wouldn't boot. When trying to start, it went green then yellow after 3 seconds and finally blinking red.

I think this is called the yellow light of death (YLOD).

The HDD was missing however the warranty seal was still intact and I've found this wonderful guide here on PSX place so I have decided to order some tantalum capacitors (470uf, 6.3V, "D" size):
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-research-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod-fix.25260/

I've started by replacing the right NEC/TOKIN cap of the RSX area (with 4 tantalum capacitors) on the top of the board but ended up with the same delayed YLOD once I have assembled the console. I assumed that this means that more NEC/TOKIN caps needs to be replaced so I have replaced the second one on the RSX area and both caps for the CELL(?) in case that is the one not getting enough power. (So all NEC/TOKIN caps got replaced on the top side of the board) Even after that, I still had the same delayed YLOD. As a final attempt, I replaced one of the NEC/TOKIN caps of the RSX area on the bottom. (I only had 3 tantalum capacitors left so I have used only 3 for this one) but the issue persist.

According to what I've understand from the guide, replacing 2 of the NEC/TOKIN capacitors in the RSX area should supply more than enough current for the console to boot so I'm starting to think that the issue lies somewhere else in the system.

To summarize things: I had a console with a 3 seconds delayed YLOD and still have the very same YLOD after replacing 5 of the NEC/TOKIN capacitors. (3 on RSX area, 2 in CELL)

I've noticed two things:
-The diode mode readings (multimeter) of the positive and negative rails of the NEC/TOKIN capacitors show a very low value (like 005 and 007) which seems like a short to me but on the other hand, I don't know what readings I would get from a working motherboard, that is, I have nothing to compare it to. Wouldn't a short in this area cause an immediate YLOD instead of one that is delayed by 3 seconds?
-There is some corrosion on the top side of the shielding. I have cleaned up the rust(?) from the motherboard and it cleaned up pretty nicely and nothing seems like it was affected however I haven't checked it with a microscope just yet.

It's a "COK-002" motherboard.

I have also:
-Checked every fuse on the board (even thermal fuses) and none of them are blown.
Any comment that would help me to pinpoint this issue is much appreciated! :)

https://ibb.co/BLzK7MT
https://ibb.co/GnpLytr
https://ibb.co/fNkHp2T
https://ibb.co/mBnSC1D
https://ibb.co/MZMdNxs
https://ibb.co/fnB1VCT
https://ibb.co/qxn150w
https://ibb.co/T0QK7Cm
Click to expand...
It makes more sense for this to be here. It'll make a long thread longer, but that ship has sailed. This thread is about repair and damage control at this point.

Your post and the following have the same response from me, so I'm going to quote him too and then answer both of you.
zdenko said:
Been looking through this post for 3 weeks now.
Lets just say I made a mistake and only read the first couple pages and then referred to Youtube afterwards and stupidly removed a Tokin without reading further...
Even done the dumb thing of trying some electrolytic caps to replace it as I already had some from a PC motherboard repair many years ago.

Before that mistake I just opened the PS3 up and cleaned out all the dust. Was not to bad. The CPU and GPU paste was not the best though.

So now that I have got up to page 90 I am more educated but need to still read more. I have skimmed through some other pages.

Need to read more about this SYSCON dump, but I think I may have tried booting way to many times, plus disconnected the battery to see the original faults.


Anyhow.
I have a CECHC02 (Australian 240V Launch Unit bought new, we did not get A or B's here as our launch was late March 2007)
It was reballed for a YLOD back in January 2013. It was reflowed unbeknown to me twice before that by the same repairer in 2012, when I payed for a reball. As you could imagine I was very impressed, not, when he told me that upon taking it for the 3rd repair in 7 months after the 6 month's warranty.
I did always have GT6 crashing from the day the game came out.
It worked pretty much OK for all other games all the way until May this year.
My YLOD this time happened mid game in God of War Ascension. It had previously crashed in this game a few times, but I have heard of the game being buggy so I did not think much of it.

At power up I have my YLOD in 1-2 seconds.(before and after removing 1 RSX Tokin, with and without Electrolytic replacement)
The fan does turn on.
I have tested the Power supply and it seems fine. All 5V's are there and so is the 12V.
I have tried the pressure test with no result.
I do have 0.2Ohms between the + and ground on Tokins for both RSX and Cell!!! That sounds like a short to me, but both??? It does not look like I have shorted the rails with my initial solder job.
I do however get a O/P on the CRO in the very short boot time. Only from the RSX as that is easy to get the CRO on with the EMI shield affixed.
I have one with the Electrolytic connected which I did with extension wires and one with just the pads and and no cap.
I will aim to get them up later as I am learning this forum format.
Lets just say they look nothing like previous CRO O/P images posted up with a short. More like ones that have OKish caps.
So I am stumped so far.


So I don't have to read another 100 pages, can someone direct me to a link that explains SYSCON please. Really wpould like to do the dump to see what did break originally and if I have broken anything else since.
Click to expand...
You both should start here: SYSCON Tutorial.

Once you get the errlog we'll be able to help.
 
Attention All Newcomers:
We are always repeating ourselves answering questions that have been answered ad nauseam. I will use this post as a catch all for future newcomers who need to catch up to the current state of the thread. If you are not willing to read the entire thread before asking for help, at least read the following.

I compiled a shortlist of links to subjects that are particularly important to read. These disscussions and posts will help you understand how to fix your PS3 and how to avoid breaking it. They will also dispel some myths in the process.
I will edit this post as needed.
 
Last edited:
RIP-Felix said:
Attention All Newcomers:
We are always repeating ourselves answering questions that have been answered ad nauseam. I will use this post as a catch all for future newcomers who need to catch up to the current state of the thread. If you are not willing to read the entire thread before asking for help, at least read the following.

I compiled a shortlist of links to subjects that are particularly important to read. These disscussions and posts will help you understand how to fix your PS3 and how to avoid breaking it. They will also dispel some myths in the process.
I will edit this post as needed to add more links if needed.
Click to expand...

Hey @Naked_Snake1995 , how do you feel about posting the above along with the first post? That'd summarize the latest findings and give people a more up to date view of the project. I've seen several people come in, only read the first 10 pages or so and miss out on a lot of the progress @RIP-Felix, @squeept and @db260179 have made in the last few months.
 
If our goal, as a community, is to come up with a definitive solution to ylod, then we really need to get those updates front and center.
 
Pacorretaco said:
Here is a video we made some time ago about the SYSCON connection. You can follow the timestamps and skip as yo go. The video is long but really should take few minutes.
Also it includes written instructions.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks for that.


Pacorretaco said:
About 0.2 ohms on CPU and RSX cores... Do you think it's possible that you are reading it wrong? And it's actually 2 ohms?
Because yeah 0.2 means you should not even try powering on.
But 2 ohms is perfectly fine.

It is actually very interesting what you say about intensive loads such as Gran Turismo "crashing" (from day 1!)
By "crashing" you mean "shutdown", 3 beeps and blinking red yes?

Also even more interesting that you say this machine was reflowed couple times which lasted little and then actually reballed which lasted many years until now, with shutdown under load in heavy game too.

I'm very interested to see what your SYSCON says. Because this can be one of the interesting ones really.

Lastly, I think it's a real shame that new people like you need to dig through so much misinformation. It's no wonder that we end up where we are. It's high time the original post should be edited in some way or another. If not by the OP, then by moderators. A simple clear warning at the beginning could go a long way for all the newcomers.
(The irony being that your particular case could actually be the 3%... capacitors hehe. But even then, no point going in blind when it can be diagnosed first)

Good luck
Click to expand...

Pretty sure is was 0.2Ohms as that was the resistance of the leads as well.
Was measuring the same from the + tokin rails to any bit of copper on the board ler along the froud rail on the tokins.
This made no sense to me at all as to me the thing should not even turn on.
Was using my Dads old multimeter. May have to recheck with my one as it does seems suspect.

GT6 crashing was shutdown with 3 beeps. Always had me worried it would be another YLOD.
Yet I could play GT5 for hours and hours with no issue at all.
As a Granturismo fan it killed me as I pretty much buy Playstations for Granturismo, then any other games come later. I have GT HD demo from 2007 on that machine so I'm really hoping if this is terminal I can still download that one from my PSN history as i know they removed that from the store in 2008.
I made GT Academy finals twice in Australia and not being able to play GT6 as much as I liked was very annoying. Probably cost me places at other finals as practice makes perfect.


RIP-Felix said:
Attention All Newcomers:
We are always repeating ourselves answering questions that have been answered ad nauseam. I will use this post as a catch all for future newcomers who need to catch up to the current state of the thread. If you are not willing to read the entire thread before asking for help, at least read the following.

I compiled a shortlist of links to subjects that are particularly important to read. These disscussions and posts will help you understand how to fix your PS3 and how to avoid breaking it. They will also dispel some myths in the process.
I will edit this post as needed to add more links if needed.
Click to expand...

That definitely should be on page 1 as a big disclaimer.
Does this place have Mods???
I gather the majority of people did what I did. Read the first few pages, verify on youtube and maybe another random forum and go sweet lets give this ago. Pretty much the first few pages is filled with success stories...

BTW the biggest problem in Australia now is that all the repairers that did BGA repairs for PS3's have long stopped this work.
I asked pretty much all of them around the country and they either say they packed their gear up or moved it on years ago.
The other answer is no answer at all so likely shutdown altogether.
Have checked on some local forums and everyone is saying the same thing, no repairers to do the work. Was very disappointed to find out the official Australian PlayStation forum shutdown a year ago as I know that had some info it it.
I don't think our market is big enough to support serious PS3 repairs like BGA rework anymore.
There are not many CECHC models here which are the most likely repair candidates.
They were way to expensive new for most people at $1000AUD for the 60GB and $825 for the 20GB. A New Xbox 360 was only $620 AUD so it killed the PS3 at launch.
So in USD terms our 60GB console was priced anywhere between $800 to $900 USD back in 2007 from April to November when that model existed!!!
 
zdenko said:
Does this place have Mods??
Click to expand...
Yes. Dispite burn out, rude and demanding members, and even time itself there are still a few voluteers left holding the wheel. Of course, we also have familys, jobs, dogs, stress, tv, enemies, etc that we must also check on now and again.
zdenko said:
That definitely should be on page 1 as a big disclaimer.
Click to expand...
The original poster is always responsibe for the original post (in this type of thread). If you or others would like it added, the original poster is the one to ask.
 
RIP-Felix said:
Attention All Newcomers:
We are always repeating ourselves answering questions that have been answered ad nauseam. I will use this post as a catch all for future newcomers who need to catch up to the current state of the thread. If you are not willing to read the entire thread before asking for help, at least read the following.

I compiled a shortlist of links to subjects that are particularly important to read. These disscussions and posts will help you understand how to fix your PS3 and how to avoid breaking it. They will also dispel some myths in the process.
I will edit this post as needed to add more links if needed.
Click to expand...

I started reading the SYSCON details.
Seems easy enough, just need one bit of hardware. The USB/TTL adaptor. Have plenty of access to various Soldering irons and tips.

I also noted that it says you will get the last 32 error codes dumped out.
I know I have tried powering it up more than that so won't see the original failure. Was trying to get the disc out and tried getting it into fan test mode are the main reasons.:(

I think I found a USB TTL adaptor local to me in Australia that will work to save shipping time. Not to mention shipping price from USA to AUS.
Has 3.3 and 5V capability.
https://core-electronics.com.au/usb-to-ttl-serial-uart-rs232-adaptor-pl2303hx.html
So I gather this one will be fine?
 
zdenko said:
Thanks for that.

BTW the biggest problem in Australia now is that all the repairers that did BGA repairs for PS3's have long stopped this work.
I asked pretty much all of them around the country and they either say they packed their gear up or moved it on years ago.
The other answer is no answer at all so likely shutdown altogether.
Have checked on some local forums and everyone is saying the same thing, no repairers to do the work. Was very disappointed to find out the official Australian PlayStation forum shutdown a year ago as I know that had some info it it.
I don't think our market is big enough to support serious PS3 repairs like BGA rework anymore.
There are not many CECHC models here which are the most likely repair candidates.
They were way to expensive new for most people at $1000AUD for the 60GB and $825 for the 20GB. A New Xbox 360 was only $620 AUD so it killed the PS3 at launch.
So in USD terms our 60GB console was priced anywhere between $800 to $900 USD back in 2007 from April to November when that model existed!!!
Click to expand...

I can try to help you if you are willing to ship the board to Finland or willing to buy a finished board from me. I guess, I could also try to help out others like you... But so far, not many have shown interest, so I also kinda put the equipment aside (into the easily accessible closet, that is :D). Although, I am planning to make one more swap for myself this summer, so I suppose I might as well make it for a few others too.
 
hi everyone I own a cha07 for more than 10 years, just updated from 4.75CFW to 4.88CFW a few days ago
I used to play GOW3 to complete the level, and I recently replayed it, but in the game it will cause the system to shut down randomly RLOD
Use webman to monitor cpu 71 degrees gpu 71 degrees, the fan is on 45%, and the indoor air conditioner temperature is 29 degrees
But playing Shadow of the Colossus will not cause the system to shut down
Use webman to monitor the temperature cpu 71 degrees gpu 65 degrees or less, the fan is on 35%
Because of RLOD, I opened the Ihs and reapplied the thermal paste
I expect to use a battery internal resistance meter to measure the NEC/TOKIN internal resistance value on the substrate to determine how I need to add a few bulk capacitors to achieve the internal resistance value of the original system design. See if the random shutdown problem can be solved, RLOD
I do not plan to remove NEC/TOKIN on the substrate
If it doesn't work, then connect to SYSCON to confirm the error log
Any suggestions? Thank you
Because I'm still playing Shadow of the Colossus, I'm not in a hurry to do it.
 
Last edited:
Hi Rip-Felix,

my 40GB Model with Movo SEM-001 start after severeal startups fine and works great. Shutdown console and tried after one day again. Same issue, but after 5-7 startups the ps3 starts in XMB. So i thought i replace the NECs adn start with the first 2 then the rest, without succeed. Now, i have to remove all NECs and want replace them the the 470nf. Tried everytime when i remove one NEC with 470nf caps and in the end the console start and shut down immedently.

I thought it would be a easy fix and now i read the hole thread about the different issues and solutions.

I saw your mod on oshpark and want like to know did you test the pcbs on a ylod ps3 and did it work? It looks like a easy way to fix the issues.

https://oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix

If i would use the pcb, how many i have to solder for RSX and Cell?

Thanks for your feedback.
red
 
RedScorpion said:
Hi Rip-Felix,

my 40GB Model with Movo SEM-001 start after severeal startups fine and works great. Shutdown console and tried after one day again. Same issue, but after 5-7 startups the ps3 starts in XMB. So i thought i replace the NECs adn start with the first 2 then the rest, without succeed. Now, i have to remove all NECs and want replace them the the 470nf. Tried everytime when i remove one NEC with 470nf caps and in the end the console start and shut down immedently.

I thought it would be a easy fix and now i read the hole thread about the different issues and solutions.

I saw your mod on oshpark and want like to know did you test the pcbs on a ylod ps3 and did it work? It looks like a easy way to fix the issues.

https://oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix

If i would use the pcb, how many i have to solder for RSX and Cell?

Thanks for your feedback.
red
Click to expand...
The tokins usually do not cause an instant YLOD. You're describing a warm start YLOD - only starts when warm. That's due to thermal warping (most likely), which indicates a BGA defect. But the only way to know for sure is to get the SYSCON codes.
kimouser6471 said:
hi everyone I own a cha07 for more than 10 years, just updated from 4.75CFW to 4.88CFW a few days ago
I used to play GOW3 to complete the level, and I recently replayed it, but in the game it will cause the system to shut down randomly RLOD
Use webman to monitor cpu 71 degrees gpu 71 degrees, the fan is on 45%, and the indoor air conditioner temperature is 29 degrees
But playing Shadow of the Colossus will not cause the system to shut down
Use webman to monitor the temperature cpu 71 degrees gpu 65 degrees or less, the fan is on 35%
Because of RLOD, I opened the Ihs and reapplied the thermal paste
I expect to use a battery internal resistance meter to measure the NEC/TOKIN internal resistance value on the substrate to determine how I need to add a few bulk capacitors to achieve the internal resistance value of the original system design. See if the random shutdown problem can be solved, RLOD
I do not plan to remove NEC/TOKIN on the substrate
If it doesn't work, then connect to SYSCON to confirm the error log
Any suggestions? Thank you
Because I'm still playing Shadow of the Colossus, I'm not in a hurry to do it.
Click to expand...
That sounds more like the use case for a tokin fix, an Intense YLOD (only happens during intense games). Not related to temperatures. When you get around to it, I would start by adding 1 or 2 TaPol caps in parallel to the tokins. Don't remove the tokins, just scrape away some solder mask so you can solder in a couple next to them. But you should still install the SYSCON wires and get the error codes to be sure this is your problem. For peace of mind.
 
zdenko said:
I started reading the SYSCON details.
Seems easy enough, just need one bit of hardware. The USB/TTL adaptor. Have plenty of access to various Soldering irons and tips.

I also noted that it says you will get the last 32 error codes dumped out.
I know I have tried powering it up more than that so won't see the original failure. Was trying to get the disc out and tried getting it into fan test mode are the main reasons.:(

I think I found a USB TTL adaptor local to me in Australia that will work to save shipping time. Not to mention shipping price from USA to AUS.
Has 3.3 and 5V capability.
https://core-electronics.com.au/usb-to-ttl-serial-uart-rs232-adaptor-pl2303hx.html
So I gather this one will be fine?
Click to expand...
One of the first steps of diagnosing a console should be the SYSCON, so you can preserve its errorlog. I test once and if I see an instant YLOD I open it. If it has a ZSS PS I replace with a known good APS-226 and test one more time, just in case. After that I fully disassemble, clean the dust out, and install the SYSCON wires. Worst case, it only add 2 errors to the log.

That adapter should work fine.
 
Some consoles will trigger shutdown when playing games, and it can be normal to replace the power module
Maybe you can check if IC6023 has sent POW_FAIL to trigger system shutdown, and find out if the 12V voltage drop caused
 
Some consoles will trigger shutdown when playing games, and it can be normal to replace the power module
Maybe you can check if IC6023 has sent POW_FAIL to trigger system shutdown, and find out if the 12V voltage drop caused

If it is not IC6023 POW_FAIL, you can confirm whether IC6201 RSX_POW_FAIL is triggered
This is more like a tokin issue
R6207, R6205 is to set the output voltage drop to exceed 0.875Vout, trigger RXS_POW_FAIL

Can confirm whether IC6201 RSX_POW_FAIL is triggered R6207, R6205 set the output voltage to drop to 0.875Vout or Vout+100 mV(2us), trigger RXS_POW_FAIL This is more like RXS side tokin issue

In the same way, you can confirm whether IC6103 BE_POW_FAIL is triggered R6112, R6111 set the output voltage to drop to 0.875Vout or Vout+100 mV(2us), trigger BE_POW_FAIL BE side tokin issue

xxPOW_FAIL is connected to SYSCON IC4002, this should be the mechanism of power-off

The above are all reversed from the circuit diagram and other people's reports
 
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RIP-Felix said:
The tokins usually do not cause an instant YLOD. You're describing a warm start YLOD - only starts when warm. That's due to thermal warping (most likely), which indicates a BGA defect. But the only way to know for sure is to get the SYSCON codes.
Click to expand...

Hmm, damn. I guess the reason was that one cap get not enough power to start up the console and that occurs the problem. Syscon is possible when caps are not soldered or removed?!

Thanks
red
 
Gents, need help with my ps3 2000b model. It was working fine for two years after a repaste, no delid. Under webman, the fan would kick in hard to keep the temps low. Last week I decided to delid both gpu and BE to apply paste on the dye. Successfully deluded no scratches. Applied the paste and put it together. Got Ylod. Took it apart and saw there are 3 metal sensors (similar to the phat model power button) that touch on the metal top plate when put together. On of the sensors was bent and wasn't making contact. I fixed it and plate to sensor made contact. Console powered on and ran cool under webman 45c both chips while in the xmb. I installed gta 5 and every time I'm in the prologue, same spot, the game freezes and I get beeps. Red flashing. I restart into xmb and no problem. Right now I got a dvd playing for the past half hour and no shut down. Running cool under webman. My theory is bad tokin doesn't draw enough power to gpu when under stress? Any thoughts?

update: the console has been running in xmb for 3 hours without shutting down. I'm sure if I try starting gta 5, it will beep and shut off.
 
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Hello everyone. Recently I replaced the first pair of the capacitors from the back side of the motherboard of a broken CECHC04 and the console managed to boot and play PS2 and PS1 games just fine. However, once I tried PS3 games, the console died on me again. So I assumed I could try to replace the rest of the capacitors as well as I have like 40 spares left.

After replacing the second pair of capacitors of the back of the motherboard, the isolating tape I used to protect the surrounding areas of the motherboard actually pulled out a small component (which I guess is a capacitor). It fell to the ground and I haven't been able to find it.

The piece is small but I am sure I can replace it with some patience and time, but I just have no clue of what replacement/compatible piece I should look for to do the trick. Do you guys know what this component is, or where I can find some information about it? Thank you in advance, I can't wait to play my PS3 games as I never had this console when I was younger.

https://i.ibb.co/TRLnhmr/Untitled.jpg
 
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