PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

truemaster said:
mm dont know about tokins but electrolitic capacitors will perk up if lightly heatet up, can you try another psu? is psu isnt give the correct power ylod can occur.
Click to expand...
NEC/TOKINs are electrolytic/polymer hybrids. However, they have a dry electrolyte, not wet, which makes a difference. Most heat test hypothesis' don't hold up to scrutiny.

On the other hand, there is one theory that holds water. Note: Scientists have a much more rigorous definition for "theory" than the one most people know. In science a "theory" is a hypothesis backed by solid evidence from experimentation and a valid conclusion. Peer reviewed and scrutinized! It is not "just a theory," as people mistakenly say. The corrected saying would be "it's just a hypothesis." It's commonly misunderstood by non-scientists. I'm pointing this out, because I want you to understand what I mean when I say the following is a Theory, not a hypothesis. This is a known phenomenon and not controversial at all. Nor is it my opinion.

There is one lingering theory that can lend validity to the heat test. @Deus brought it up on Page 50. "Capacitors you can revive by heating them up to/above their curie point." I looked into this. It turns out heating electrolytic/MLCC capacitors above the Curie point of its electrolyte does in fact heal them (somewhat). The effect will wear off soon after and can not be repeated very many times due to chemical decomposition (entropy). However, this is one of the the effect that we see in "wet" electrolytic caps and "dry" MLCC's that is the "seed of truth" making the heat test seem particularly plausible. Especially since the NEC/TOKINs are an electrolytic/polymer "hybrid capacitor."

In the case of aluminum electrolytic capacitors the hot liquid electrolyte inside expands and deforms the can itself. It also can strain the solder joints as a result (swelling), which can lower the ESR if it doesn't pop and leak first. That can't happen with "dry" electrolytes, like those used in MLCC's or the tokins.

We have had multiple plausible hypotheses to explain why heat could heal tokins, but all of that goes out the window when an oscilloscope confirms the heat test on bad tokins has zero effect! @squeept did a test that confirms this. So we definitely know the heat test doesn't heal the tokins, not even temporarily.

But there are many MLCC capacitors nearby that it could affect. These are high frequency bypass caps meant to attenuate noise that would otherwise interfere with important signals. If they are going bad, which is unlikely since they last like 50 years, then heating them could restore some of their function. The only scenario I can see this having any affect is if both the tokins and MLCC caps were harmed by excessive heat. Multiple "heat gun specials" from noobs, for example. Then, and only then, could heating the MLCC's above the Curie point potentially heal them enough to restore just enough capacitance to remove the small amount of HF noise causing a YLOD. The effect wouldn't last long because the console was fried and MLCC's basically dead. And it would only work if the tokins were teetering on the edge of working. In that one scenario, the heat test could have meaning and replacing the tokins could fix the problem. And that's only if the BGA were fine, which it most certainly would not be given the abuse it sustained in this scenario.

You really have to stretch the boundaries of plausible scenarios in which the heat test couldd have any meaning. Basically, the heat test is meaningless. Oh, and the SYSCON would read 1002's all day if that were happening. So if the SYSCON didn't, you can know for sure this is not why! If the heat test worked for you and there aren't any 1002's in the error log, then you probaly need a reball.
 
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Naked_Snake1995 said:
View attachment 21838

*INTRODUCTION

Introduced in 2006, the PlayStation3 its perhaps one of the best systems to own to date, the vast of PlayStation3 software to explore, Blu-Ray and 3D Blu-Ray Movies, PlayStation and PlayStation2 Backwards Compatibility, Linux and many other features, the PlayStation3 its a swiss army knife for any PlayStation veteran and newcomers alike.

While the system its well engineered, like all Sony products, quality its always present, the system did come with its flaws, one of the most famous of the issue was the YLOD or as its known by Yellow Light Of Death, its a indication of a general hardware malfunction.

Around 2007, the very first YLOD fixes surfaced the internet, known as the Oven/Baking Method or Reflow, this fix consisted in disassembling the console, and insert the Motherboard in a oven at 300ºCs, and the by applying extreme heat, the solder-joints under the CELL Boardband Engine and RSX Graphics Chip, would
align, thus fixing the YLOD, although this method worked,it wasnt a long lasting fix, the time-frame before the console failed again was between 1 day to 1 year, perhaps even more, but thats luck.

The Second method of YLOD its called Reballing, which envolves applying extreme heat to the chips, thus replacing the Lead-Free solder BGA Grid, to a more reliable Leaded Solder, which fixed the console, but again the fix wasn´t a long lasting success, usually a console would last between a week to a few years,but eventually it would fail, some reports suggest more than that,but eventually it would fail,no matter how well the reballing work was.

*TRIVIA - Why these aren´t long time fixes?

In order to understand why these fixes would fail, we need to understand why the Lead-Free Solder isn´t the issue and whats really causing the YLOD.

On 27 January 2003, the RoHS (Restriction of Use of Hazardous Substances), imposed a rule to switch the used Lead-Solder in the past PCB fabrications, to the Lead-Free Solder, in order too meet the Safety Quality Standarts, by the time the PlayStation3 started development in 2004 with the early prototype machines, Sony was already using Lead-Free Solder in they´re PCB fabrications, and any model of the PlayStation2 past the manufacture year of 2003.

Due to this change, many users assumed, that the Lead-Free Solder would crack due to heating and cooling of the machine,thus creating cracks on the BGA Grid, dissrupting the connection between the chip and the motherboard.

Reflowing and Reballing worked, but not for the reasons that was believed,which was the Lead-Free Solder causing the issue, the PlayStation3 with the Syscon fan usually has a max tolerance temperature around 75/78ºC at almost Stage 4 Fan Speed "more on the later models", and a Thermal Protection at 90ºCs, the problem is that in order for the Lead-Free Solder to crack or dislodge from the board on average you need 217ºC to get the chip off the board, the PlayStation3 inside, its almost at 75ºC to 80ºCs at the most, which is 138ºCs less than what you need in order to damage the solder-balls, Sony used the same Lead-Free aloy in all Generations of the PlayStation3, yet only the Revisions that are known for this kind of failure its the CECHA all the way to the CECH-2000 Slim Model, and why dont any other revision from CECH-2100 and upwards get the YLOD, if the same Lead-Free aloy is used? Did Sony removed the "feature? Its because of the newer Chipset Manufacture Process "Nm"? Is because the newer consoles heat less than they´re predecessors? The answer its neither of them, the Lead-Free Solder, the Overheating or Newer Manufacture Process,but rather a few SMD Capacitors manufactured by NEC "Formerly known as "NEC/TOKIN", which are responsible for the YLOD issue caused by the early PlayStation3 revisions.

*TRIVIA - What is the NEC/TOKIN Capacitor and why does it cause the YLOD?

The NEC/TOKIN SMD Capacitor was manufactured by NEC "Formerly known as NEC/TOKIN", which its responsible for the current filtration and conversion, in order to stabalize and give the necessary current to the needed components.

These capacitors were used by Sony until the 65nm CELL/RSX manufacture era, due to they´re size and compact mounting space required, it could easily replace 4/6 Capacitors required to give the same uF "Micro-Farat" output, in a single package, these capacitors was used by other manufactures not just Sony, in a variety on PCB appliances such as Laptops/DVD Players between others, these Capacitors are notorious for failure due to the age/use and heat, thus loosing they´re original capacitance to a point they wont provide the necessary current anymore.

Reballing/Reflowing and the Hair-Drier only worked,because by heating the area to remove/reflow the CELL/RSX, you were not fixing the BGA with heat,but the action of heating the chips, where heating the NEC/TOKINs themselfs, thus restoring they´re original capacitive properties of the NEC/TOKINs,but depending on the amount of heat used, either it could last between a day to a few years.

The NEC/TOKIN Capacitors have the serial number 0E128 - 1200uF "Phat Models" and 0E108 "Slim Models" - 1000uF Capacitance respectively.

View attachment 21839

The problem with the use of these Capacitors on the PlayStation3 is that they are 8 "Phats" and 4 "Slim", and they work in tandem to filtre and provide the necessary current to the RSX and CELL, and if one out of the four NEC/TOKIN fails on either of the chipsets, there is a current disruption,which means the Capacitence needed to feed either the CELL or RSX is below the required, thus YLOD.


In this tutorial, ill explain step by step,how to replace the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors and where to start, so dust off your old PlayStation3 from your closet and lets get to work!

DISCLAIMER - Do this repair at your own risk, i am not responsible if your PlayStation3 catches fire or blows in a Thermo - Nuclear fashion, proccede with the upmost extreme caution, read the instructions carefully, and good luck!

*TOOLS - What you will need?

*Soldering Iron - "Small/Thin tip recommended"
*Soldering Flux
*32 Tantalum Capacitors "330/470uF - 2.5V/6.3V - Rated"
*Soldering Skills
*Knife "NEC/TOKIN Removal"
*Cup of Coffee "Optional"
*Patience and steady-hands "recommended"

*Compatible Models:

*Phat Models: "470uF"

*DECR-1000 - "TMU-520"
*DECHA00A - "COK-001"
*CECHA - "COK-001"
*CECHB - "COK-001"
*CECHC - "COK-002"
*CECHE - "COK-002/W"
*CECHG - "SEM-001"
*CECHH - "DIA-001"
*CECHJ - "DIA-002"
*CECHK - "DIA-002"
*CECHL - "VER-001"
*CECHM - "DIA-001"
*CECHP - "VER-001"
*CECHQ - "VER-001"
*DECR-1400 - "DEB-001"

"Due to the DEB-001 being identical to a DYN-001 Board, only the RSX needs a capacitor repalcement, you can use either 470uF, although 330uF will work just fine"

*Slim Models: "330uF" - RSX Only

*CECH-20XX - "DYN-001

*STEP 1 - DISASSEMBLE YOUR PLAYSTATION3.

This procedure its very simple, just like replacing the thermal paste, disassemble your PlayStation3, we will only need to work on the motherboard, for the time being we only will work on the RSX, on the top layer of the board, just one capacitor its needed to replace for the console to boot, if it fails, then more its needed,but the process its the same,but for now we will just focus on one NEC/TOKIN.

View attachment 19113

*STEP 2 - REMOVE THE ORIGINAL NEC/TOKIN CAPACITOR

Once you have the motherboard in your work-bench, identify the NEC/TOKIN Capacitor, then use a Knife, and carefully remove the original NEC/TOKIN Capacitors, they have a Plastic Outer-Shell so removing them should be pretty easy, i suggest using a masking tape as there are many traces around the NEC/TOKINs, you can also use the Soldering Iron to melt, the Plastic Case, as it will be even easier to remove them, remove the capacitor until you have four solder lines "2 Positive/2 Negative", that means the capacitor its completely removed. "See the picture for reference"

View attachment 19115



*STEP 3 - SOLDER TANTALUM CAPACITORS IN THE POSITIVE/NEGATIVE POLE.

This its a very important step, there should be four solder lines once you remove the NEC/TOKIN Capacitor, the Tantalum Capacitors have a Positive Pole and a Negative Pole, the Grey Sign its your Positive Pole, the rest of black its the Negative Pole, the 2 Middle lines "almost together" are your Negative Poles, the other 2 from the start are your Positive, you need to solder 4 Tantalums in the correct order, solder them in a 65º Angle, in order to fit 2 Tantalum Capacitors in 2 lines "Positive/Negative", its important while soldering that the legs of the Capacitor touch they´re respective rails "Positive/Negative". "See the picture for reference"

View attachment 19116


*STEP 4 - ISOLATE THE CAPACITORS

After you done soldering all the four capacitors, grab some electical tape,and isolate the Tantalum Capacitors, this will make sure that the Solder from the Tantalums wont touch the EMI Sheild "Electro Magnetic - Sheild" thus creating a short, after that assemble the PlayStation3, and test the console.

View attachment 19117


*STEP 5 - TEST THE UNIT

If all has been done correctly, your console should boot without any problems, Congratulations you just fixed your PlayStation3, if your console refuses to boot, inspect,and make sure you solder them right, take a look carefully,and test it again, if it still refuses to boot,then more capacitors replacement its needed, replace the 2nd NEC/TOKIN with Tantalums on the RSX Area,where you replaced the NEC/TOKIN area before, the procedure its the same.

"IMPORTANT - TO MAKE SURE YOU DID IT RIGHT, AND MORE CAPACITORS NEEDS REPLACEMENT, THE YLOD MUST BE DELAYED, SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN 3/5 SEC TIME-FRAME, IF ITS IMMEDIATE/SHORTED THAN THAT, IT MEANS THAT THE CAPACITOR ITS NOT PROPERLY SOLDERED, THAT HAPPENS WHEN A NEC ITS REMOVED,BECAUSE THERE IS NO CURRENT SUPPLY TO THE CHIP"

"NOTICE - IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO REMOVE THE NEC/TOKINS, I SUGGEST TO LEAVE THE ORIGINAL NECS UNDER THE BOARD, AS THEY HAVE AN INTERNAL BRIDGE/JUMPER ON THE POSITIVE POINT, SO IT WILL CREATE A BRIDGE FOR THE TANTALUMS, BUT IF YOU DECIDE TO REMOVE ALL THE NECS, YOULL HAVE TO BRIDGE THE TANTALUMS FROM THE POSITIVE TO POSITIVE POINTS WITH A HIGH GUAGE WIRE OR ELSE THE CURRENT WONT PASS THOUGH,SINCE THERE IS NO BRIDGE BETWEEN THE TANTALUMS! BUT THE BEST WAY TO AVOID MAKING JUMPERS IS TO LEAVE AT LEAST 1 ORIGINAL NEC ON THE MOTHERBOARD "See Picture for Reference"

View attachment 19122



*Q&A - QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Q-1 - How long does this repair last?

A-1 - Once you make this capacitor repalacement, your PlayStation3 not only will improve reliability,but it will last you years to come, and you dont have to worry about YLOD anymore.

Q-2 - My PlayStation3 doesn´t any NEC/TOKIN Capacitors,but my PS3 switches off,why?

A-2 - Sony remedied this issue on the 45/40nm starting with the CECH-2100, so they dont encounter this issue, regarding the shutdown on these models,thats a different topic, it can be either a Mosfet/Resistor or even a PWM Chip, that issue its known as BlackOut.

Q-3 - Does these capacitors are the cause for the YLOD?

A-3 - Statistically speaking, 90% of the YLOD its due to these capacitors, as long as the unit hasnt been touched, chances are that its the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors, due to they high failure rate,but if this fix didnt help,then chances are then its another component failure, like a Ceramic Capacitor "more frequent on the L/K Models", or if the Chip themselfs have suffered physical damage or corrosion,which only reballing will help you remedy this,and brand new chipsets.

Q-4 - Will this fix the Gran Turismo 6 and The Last Of Us YLOD?

A-4 - Yes, if you make a full capacitor replacement,meaning you replace all the capacitors, yes thoes titles will become playable, due to the original NEC/TOKIN Capacitors aging and capacitance loss, can´t supply the necessary to the CELL/RSX, thus the YLOD.

Q-5 - I dont want to remove the NEC/TOKINs,can i solder the Tantalum in parallel/Piggy-Back?

A-5 - The good news its yes, you can solder the Tantalums with the NEC/TOKINs in parallel, or as its commonly known, the Piggy.Back technique, this will make sure they work in tandem, you will still have to solder the positive to positive, by melting the NEC/TOKIN plastic shell, but the Negative Pole, you can solder it by finding the Ground Point on the Motherboard.

Q-6 - Have you tested this fixed yourself, or any other user has made this repair,and did you/they have success?

A-6 - Yes, ive made this repair myself, preformed on a European CECHC04 - 60GB, still works till this day, already on the 8th month, one month before the thread was written, other users whom made the capacitors replacement have been successful on the repair, no failures reported so far, the rate its high.

Q-7 - Do you have plans to continue this repair on your personal consoles, or any consoles with YLOD you grab to prove this repair works?

A-7 - Yes, this repair motivates me to purchase more Phat models,since i collect PlayStation consoles,and i like my consoles in perfect working conditions, so reparing Phats should`t be a problem.

Q-8 - Will this fix my Green Light Of Death (GLOD) PlayStation3?

A-8 - Unfortunately no, GLOD its not related to the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors in anyway shape or form, summarizing GLOD its caused by a dead Graphics Chip, mostly when the Substrate has failed "little tinny solder balls under the die" due to overheating/poor maintanence or even reballing/reflowing,since extreme heat does put a strain on the GPU die, your only choice is either a RSX replacement, or using a heat-gun at 150ºC, this will restore the GPU Substrate,and your PS3 should be in working order, but if you choose the heat-gun method,be warned this isnt a long last fix, GPU replacement its advised.

Credits goes to @sandungas for helping me out, and to many other users who tested it "cant remember the names,but thank you" :)

has anyone bothered to measure the esr of these caps betore replacing them?
Click to expand...
 
m3vuv said:
has anyone bothered to measure the esr of these caps betore replacing them?
Click to expand...
Yes, I have a couple of devices I've tried to use. Basically, the measurement is relatively useless. IF they were WAY off, then yes it might be significantly higher, but it's hard to know if's meaningful or not.

The combined ESR of 4 tokins is supposed to be 0.375mΩ, barely within the tolerance of your standard 100KHz ESR meter (±0.1mΩ). You can't get the ESR of a single cap (unless you remove it and use specialized equipment), because they're in parallel not just with the each other, but with 36x 0.1uF MLCC's as well. So the resulting measurement is a combined ESR of the entire filter ± the error of the meter and in situ testing method.

If you just read the OP's tutorial and want to cut through the last 210 pages of non-sence, then I recommend you start here...
RIP-Felix said:
Attention All Newcomers:
We are always repeating ourselves answering questions that have been answered ad nauseam. I will use this post as a catch all for future newcomers who need to catch up to the current state of the thread. If you are not willing to read the entire thread before asking for help, at least read the following.

I compiled a shortlist of links to subjects that are particularly important to read. These disscussions and posts will help you understand how to fix your PS3 and how to avoid breaking it. They will also dispel some myths in the process.
I will edit this post as needed to add more links if needed.
Click to expand...

Specifically start with the SYSCON. It's cheap, as easy as currently possable, and will give you a difinitive answer whether or not your tokins are bad. No need to measure ESR. Sony's own hardware monitoring chip can diagnose the issue for you. Well, it spit's out codes that are only meaningful to SONY, but we have an early cheat sheet that clues us in and are in the process of figuring out what each code means. Regardless, it's a better place to start from and we do know what codes separate a reball from bad tokins. And that's the point!
 
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RIP-Felix said:
Yes, I have a couple of devices I've tried to use. Basically, the measurement is relatively useless. IF they were WAY off, then yes it might be significantly higher, but it's hard to know if's meaningful or not.
Click to expand...

I have a decent standalone ESR meter and it doesn't low enough to give any meaningful results, they'd have to be utterly fried. You're looking at a name brand benchtop LCR bridge for that kind of resolution. And again, none of the bad ones I've found have ever shown any normal metrics that were out of spec. But, I read his question as "how do you know the ESR for replacing them?" and the answer to that is simply "the datasheet."

Just another update on the CECHE01 because I forgot: reballed and working normally. So, if anyone happens to run in to a console with BOTH a BGA defect and a bad set of TOKIN caps, then just be aware that the syscon will only show the RSX errors.
 
zdenko said:
OK I got my error log.
And yes they are all the same for all 32 bar the last 1 since I did power on more than 32 times...

Anyway every log bar the last is this:
00000000 A0022110 FFFFFFFF
The last log ERRLOG GET 1F is this
00000000 FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF


PDF says this
2 1 1 0 Clock Generator Error (IC5001)

So I guess I need to start probing with a meter.


I do know I have 0.2ohms (short) between + and - of the tokins as well as the same to ground on the board.
The small power connector does not have a short between either 5V/3V and ground. Neither does the 12V



I have 1 fuse on B side of the board that is no good.
F6001.
Getting Megaohm value on , not a nice short like the rest.

I am assuming if that is blown there is a cause. So what next after that?
Click to expand...

Hi All

Never had a response so I have done some more prodding with my level of capability.
I have been using the SERVICE MANUAL 5th edition for COK-002 BOARD to try and help me find the culprit, but I am honestly struggling.
I have noted that my board does not have a whole heap of resistors that the schematic has on it. They have not been knocked off, they simply are not there from factory. My guess is its a revision change.


I know Fuse F6001 is blown as I am getting Megaohm resistances on my multimeter across it.
I know it is supplied by the main 12V rail. I measure a short on the supply side of the fuse to +12V main pin, ie its connected as it should be.
On the other side of the fuse I am getting 26.5 Ohms to ground. That does not sound good to me.

As I Have said before I have a short between any Tokin + rail to ground. That is for CPU and GPU.
I can see both IC6104,5&6 (for CELL) and IC6202 (for RSX) are fed by +12V.
These IC's then feed the + side of the Tokins as well as the small caps associated with them.
From what I can see the IC's and the Caps all have ground connected together with nothing in between them in the schematics.
So if one cap(not just Tokins) is shorted it is very hard to work out which is faulty no assuming it is a cap causing the short?

I can follow the circuits and have no issue with buzzing out the basic components but when it comes to the IC's I am truly lost.
Plus I don't know what value to except either.
I know there are many components that can be creating the short. Even the CPU or GPU itself.

So how do I work out which component will be creating the short?
 
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squeept said:
Those will normally read between 1 and 4 ohms. It will make a continuity tester beep, but it's not shorted and it's supposed to be that way.
Click to expand...

Yep copy that.
But I definitely have a short.
My leads measure 0.2Ohms. Any tokin rail to any tokin rail or ground gives me 0.2ohms.

Now I gather I should be able to measure a short between any Tokin ground to another.
I gather I should also read short between a CPU + to any other CPU +. Or RSX + to RSX +.
But should I be getting a short between a CPU tokin + to a RSX + tokin?


What is really screwing with my mind is that I don't see how the CPU and GPU + Tokin rails should even be connected to each other looking at the diagrams yet mine clearly are shorted somehow.
They look like the are fed by separate IC's as per the ones I listed before.
So I don't understand how I have this short for both sets of rails.
I really need to print those schematics out to make it easier to follow. Its a pain looking at it on the PC. Great for searching though.
 
zdenko said:
Yep copy that.
But I definitely have a short.
My leads measure 0.2Ohms. Any tokin rail to any tokin rail or ground gives me 0.2ohms.
Click to expand...

Oops, didn't expand your quote and see that, my bad.

I have one of these in my log, A0022110 from blown F6002. Unfortunately for you, I just changed the fuse and it was good to go. Have you changed the fuse and popped it again just to see what happens? Trust that the fuse will do its job again to prevent any real damage, and also that if anything was fried the first time, the second time won't make a difference.

As for tracking down the short if the problem doesn't magically resolve itself once the fuse is changed and all the weird little parts decide to play nice with each other again, you're probably out of luck without some other clue. You're looking at pulling BGA chips to properly isolate sections for testing.

edit: F6001 is coming right off of the 12V input from the power supply and is 5 amps. That's a pretty decent zap. If whatever is shorted is still pulling the juice to pop that, it should get hot enough instantaneously to show up on a thermal camera. The poor man's solution is to use freeze spray.

Are you reading these values with the power supply hooked up? It looks like there are some control signals that connect to some pins on the power phase controller chips that are suspiciously named suggesting that they might ground things out when instructed to if there's a problem earlier up the line. I'd really go ahead and just try changing that fuse out before you get carried away.
 
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squeept said:
Oops, didn't expand your quote and see that, my bad.

I have one of these in my log, A0022110 from blown F6002. Unfortunately for you, I just changed the fuse and it was good to go. Have you changed the fuse and popped it again just to see what happens? Trust that the fuse will do its job again to prevent any real damage, and also that if anything was fried the first time, the second time won't make a difference.

As for tracking down the short if the problem doesn't magically resolve itself once the fuse is changed and all the weird little parts decide to play nice with each other again, you're probably out of luck without some other clue. You're looking at pulling BGA chips to properly isolate sections for testing.

edit: F6001 is coming right off of the 12V input from the power supply and is 5 amps. That's a pretty decent zap. If whatever is shorted is still pulling the juice to pop that, it should get hot enough instantaneously to show up on a thermal camera. The poor man's solution is to use freeze spray.

Are you reading these values with the power supply hooked up? It looks like there are some control signals that connect to some pins on the power phase controller chips that are suspiciously named suggesting that they might ground things out when instructed to if there's a problem earlier up the line. I'd really go ahead and just try changing that fuse out before you get carried away.
Click to expand...

Lol. I guess you mean fortunately not unfortunately.
No. Have not tried replacing the fuse.
Should try it.
Will just have to source and order one.

I have been probing the board entirely isolated. Nothing plugged into it what so ever.

I do have access to Fluke thermal camera from work. It's a bit old but better than nothing. And this would be a far better use for borrowing it then what most people use it for. Checking oven heat distribution lol.

Yep. I would agree if it's a shorted component it would be very hard to track down. Way to many series parallel circuits that I can see in the diagrams which would require pulling components until you find it. For me that realistically won't happen.
And I don't really have a financially viable option here of removing the CPU or RSX as no one in Australia does that work for PS3's anymore.
 
Yes, the schematics view of the motherboard has capacitors and resistores populated that aren't on production boards. If you search for the the number (Say R2675) it'll take you to the circuit diagram. If it's not populated on your motherboard it'll be marked "XX." If it doesn't have an XX, then it'll be populated.

Also, yes it's a pain to navigate the schematic. I tried printing it out, but on 8.5x11 paper it's worse. You'd need to blow it up to the size of a poster to be able to read it. It's just better to view it on a big TV and sit close enough to the screen so you can read more of it. It would be easier to navigate if more than just the Numbers were searchable in the PDF, text for example. That would make finding all instance where a signal was mentioned easier. IDK if there is an OCR plugin available for PDF's or something, but that would help tremendously.
 
Been looking at the schematic a bit more again.
Fuse 6001 seems to protect a bunch of ancillaries that get voltage supplied by the Q6002 Mosfet. Q6002 seems to be the 5V supply for USB, Cardreader, HDD and Bluray plus a variety of other IC's which then O/P 3.3, 1.8 and 1.5 Voltages.

So when my fuses arrive I will not be plugging in the HDD, Bluray drive, or any USB devices when powering up.

Have not ordered fuses yet.
Should I be buying Slow, Fast or Very Fast Blow?
My gut feel is Fast.
 
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Hello, I'm a new member who has been sent here from a Reddit forum because my BC PS3 turns off whenever I try to play Gran Turismo 6. I have been told to seek out RIP-Felix to ask whether it would be possible to send my PS3 to them to have a look at and replace the capacitors of they happen to be the problem. I'd of course pay for the service and cover postage.

Sorry if I'm not supposed to be writing here, I don't know how to send a direct message.
 
If you can find the exact part (EDIT: or one matching the original's specification), then yeah you can order a new one. IDK...I haven't had to do it yet and if I did, I would get them from my donor board. What I do know is that the schematics are VERY insistent that you replace fuses with an exact part (EDIT: same Sony part number). So it matters.
 
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RIP-Felix said:
If you can find the exact part, then yeah you can order a new one. IDK...I haven't had to do it yet and if I did, I would get them from my donor board. What I do know is that the schematics are VERY insistent that you replace fuses with an exact part. So it matters.
Click to expand...

I would probably re-word your last sentence as that you should replace the fuses with the same specification part, not exact part.
So case size, fuse voltage/current rating, fuse blow type etc.
Manufacturer and part number should not matter.
The problem with the part numbers in the schematics is that they all appear to be Sony Internal numbers.
Sony did not make all those parts. They sourced them from a variety of component manufacturers.
The other issue with the parts listed is a lot of the IC's listed have been discontinued for years, so if it's an IC that goes you are stuck having to salvage them from other machines.

I can search one odd ball parts site(under 2 company names) for the fuse, but it tells me nothing about its specs and its out of stock anyway.

I am just going to go with a Fast Blow as at least it will blow quickly if there is a problem down the line which I am suspecting there is.
Can get 10 of them(most minimum orders start at 10) from any major component supplier in proper brands for the same money as that Sony part number one.
As long as it is a 3216 case it will just solder straight on.

I actually am down the road from two of the biggest component suppliers in Australia. RS Components and Element14.
My guess is I can't do pickup as we are under draconian stay at Home orders. Hate paying shipping which will cost more than the product when I can literally ride my bike to the place!
 
Liam McLeod said:
Hello, I'm a new member who has been sent here from a Reddit forum because my BC PS3 turns off whenever I try to play Gran Turismo 6. I have been told to seek out RIP-Felix to ask whether it would be possible to send my PS3 to them to have a look at and replace the capacitors of they happen to be the problem. I'd of course pay for the service and cover postage.

Sorry if I'm not supposed to be writing here, I don't know how to send a direct message.
Click to expand...

Hey mate

Go to page 204 and look for Rip-Felix's post regarding the process you should go through to diagnose your PS3 problem.
RIP-Felix said:
Attention All Newcomers:
We are always repeating ourselves answering questions that have been answered ad nauseam. I will use this post as a catch all for future newcomers who need to catch up to the current state of the thread. If you are not willing to read the entire thread before asking for help, at least read the following.

I compiled a shortlist of links to subjects that are particularly important to read. These disscussions and posts will help you understand how to fix your PS3 and how to avoid breaking it. They will also dispel some myths in the process.
I will edit this post as needed to add more links if needed.
Click to expand...

It looks like you are falling into the trap like many others including me of being linked from an external forum talking about how the Tokins are the golden fix.
Basically the first 10% of this topic should be discarded and RIP-Felix's post on page 204 should be page 1.
Diagnose the problem first with SYSCON, post your SYSCON readout on here, then the smart people here will have a insight of what may be wrong with your PS3.

BTW, from what I can see most people on this forum are enthusiasts, not repairers to send you PS3 to.

If you want to send a direct message click on the users name and click start a conversation in the box that pops up.
 
zdenko said:
I would probably re-word your last sentence as that you should replace the fuses with the same specification part, not exact part.
Click to expand...
Yeah good call. If you replace with the "exact" part you would be replacing the broken part, with the broken part...Lol! Maybe it's better to hear it from the horses mouth:
SONY said:
Note:
The components identified by mark /!\ or dotted line with mark /!\ are critical for safety. Replace only with part number specified.
Click to expand...

The point is that yes, you can replace it with another of the same specifications (if you know what those are). Sony's part numbers aren't useful to us, they're meaningless unless you can figure out exactly what part they used (visual inspection perhaps, if the manufacturer is still making them). SONY didn't give us the Manufacturer's part number so we can easily pull up the data sheet. That would make it easier for 3rd parties to repair and they wouldn't want a level playing field. This is just one of the anticompetitve practices electronics compainies use keep 3rd party repairs expensive. It wastes the technition's time, which they have to charge customers for.

If you have a donor board, it's easier to replace it with a working one, so there's no guesswork or time wasted figuring out what new part to order.
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
View attachment 21838

*INTRODUCTION

Introduced in 2006, the PlayStation3 its perhaps one of the best systems to own to date, the vast of PlayStation3 software to explore, Blu-Ray and 3D Blu-Ray Movies, PlayStation and PlayStation2 Backwards Compatibility, Linux and many other features, the PlayStation3 its a swiss army knife for any PlayStation veteran and newcomers alike.

While the system its well engineered, like all Sony products, quality its always present, the system did come with its flaws, one of the most famous of the issue was the YLOD or as its known by Yellow Light Of Death, its a indication of a general hardware malfunction.

Around 2007, the very first YLOD fixes surfaced the internet, known as the Oven/Baking Method or Reflow, this fix consisted in disassembling the console, and insert the Motherboard in a oven at 300ºCs, and the by applying extreme heat, the solder-joints under the CELL Boardband Engine and RSX Graphics Chip, would
align, thus fixing the YLOD, although this method worked,it wasnt a long lasting fix, the time-frame before the console failed again was between 1 day to 1 year, perhaps even more, but thats luck.

The Second method of YLOD its called Reballing, which envolves applying extreme heat to the chips, thus replacing the Lead-Free solder BGA Grid, to a more reliable Leaded Solder, which fixed the console, but again the fix wasn´t a long lasting success, usually a console would last between a week to a few years,but eventually it would fail, some reports suggest more than that,but eventually it would fail,no matter how well the reballing work was.

*TRIVIA - Why these aren´t long time fixes?

In order to understand why these fixes would fail, we need to understand why the Lead-Free Solder isn´t the issue and whats really causing the YLOD.

On 27 January 2003, the RoHS (Restriction of Use of Hazardous Substances), imposed a rule to switch the used Lead-Solder in the past PCB fabrications, to the Lead-Free Solder, in order too meet the Safety Quality Standarts, by the time the PlayStation3 started development in 2004 with the early prototype machines, Sony was already using Lead-Free Solder in they´re PCB fabrications, and any model of the PlayStation2 past the manufacture year of 2003.

Due to this change, many users assumed, that the Lead-Free Solder would crack due to heating and cooling of the machine,thus creating cracks on the BGA Grid, dissrupting the connection between the chip and the motherboard.

Reflowing and Reballing worked, but not for the reasons that was believed,which was the Lead-Free Solder causing the issue, the PlayStation3 with the Syscon fan usually has a max tolerance temperature around 75/78ºC at almost Stage 4 Fan Speed "more on the later models", and a Thermal Protection at 90ºCs, the problem is that in order for the Lead-Free Solder to crack or dislodge from the board on average you need 217ºC to get the chip off the board, the PlayStation3 inside, its almost at 75ºC to 80ºCs at the most, which is 138ºCs less than what you need in order to damage the solder-balls, Sony used the same Lead-Free aloy in all Generations of the PlayStation3, yet only the Revisions that are known for this kind of failure its the CECHA all the way to the CECH-2000 Slim Model, and why dont any other revision from CECH-2100 and upwards get the YLOD, if the same Lead-Free aloy is used? Did Sony removed the "feature? Its because of the newer Chipset Manufacture Process "Nm"? Is because the newer consoles heat less than they´re predecessors? The answer its neither of them, the Lead-Free Solder, the Overheating or Newer Manufacture Process,but rather a few SMD Capacitors manufactured by NEC "Formerly known as "NEC/TOKIN", which are responsible for the YLOD issue caused by the early PlayStation3 revisions.

*TRIVIA - What is the NEC/TOKIN Capacitor and why does it cause the YLOD?

The NEC/TOKIN SMD Capacitor was manufactured by NEC "Formerly known as NEC/TOKIN", which its responsible for the current filtration and conversion, in order to stabalize and give the necessary current to the needed components.

These capacitors were used by Sony until the 65nm CELL/RSX manufacture era, due to they´re size and compact mounting space required, it could easily replace 4/6 Capacitors required to give the same uF "Micro-Farat" output, in a single package, these capacitors was used by other manufactures not just Sony, in a variety on PCB appliances such as Laptops/DVD Players between others, these Capacitors are notorious for failure due to the age/use and heat, thus loosing they´re original capacitance to a point they wont provide the necessary current anymore.

Reballing/Reflowing and the Hair-Drier only worked,because by heating the area to remove/reflow the CELL/RSX, you were not fixing the BGA with heat,but the action of heating the chips, where heating the NEC/TOKINs themselfs, thus restoring they´re original capacitive properties of the NEC/TOKINs,but depending on the amount of heat used, either it could last between a day to a few years.

The NEC/TOKIN Capacitors have the serial number 0E128 - 1200uF "Phat Models" and 0E108 "Slim Models" - 1000uF Capacitance respectively.

View attachment 21839

The problem with the use of these Capacitors on the PlayStation3 is that they are 8 "Phats" and 4 "Slim", and they work in tandem to filtre and provide the necessary current to the RSX and CELL, and if one out of the four NEC/TOKIN fails on either of the chipsets, there is a current disruption,which means the Capacitence needed to feed either the CELL or RSX is below the required, thus YLOD.


In this tutorial, ill explain step by step,how to replace the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors and where to start, so dust off your old PlayStation3 from your closet and lets get to work!

DISCLAIMER - Do this repair at your own risk, i am not responsible if your PlayStation3 catches fire or blows in a Thermo - Nuclear fashion, proccede with the upmost extreme caution, read the instructions carefully, and good luck!

*TOOLS - What you will need?

*Soldering Iron - "Small/Thin tip recommended"
*Soldering Flux
*32 Tantalum Capacitors "330/470uF - 2.5V/6.3V - Rated"
*Soldering Skills
*Knife "NEC/TOKIN Removal"
*Cup of Coffee "Optional"
*Patience and steady-hands "recommended"

*Compatible Models:

*Phat Models: "470uF"

*DECR-1000 - "TMU-520"
*DECHA00A - "COK-001"
*CECHA - "COK-001"
*CECHB - "COK-001"
*CECHC - "COK-002"
*CECHE - "COK-002/W"
*CECHG - "SEM-001"
*CECHH - "DIA-001"
*CECHJ - "DIA-002"
*CECHK - "DIA-002"
*CECHL - "VER-001"
*CECHM - "DIA-001"
*CECHP - "VER-001"
*CECHQ - "VER-001"
*DECR-1400 - "DEB-001"

"Due to the DEB-001 being identical to a DYN-001 Board, only the RSX needs a capacitor repalcement, you can use either 470uF, although 330uF will work just fine"

*Slim Models: "330uF" - RSX Only

*CECH-20XX - "DYN-001

*STEP 1 - DISASSEMBLE YOUR PLAYSTATION3.

This procedure its very simple, just like replacing the thermal paste, disassemble your PlayStation3, we will only need to work on the motherboard, for the time being we only will work on the RSX, on the top layer of the board, just one capacitor its needed to replace for the console to boot, if it fails, then more its needed,but the process its the same,but for now we will just focus on one NEC/TOKIN.

View attachment 19113

*STEP 2 - REMOVE THE ORIGINAL NEC/TOKIN CAPACITOR

Once you have the motherboard in your work-bench, identify the NEC/TOKIN Capacitor, then use a Knife, and carefully remove the original NEC/TOKIN Capacitors, they have a Plastic Outer-Shell so removing them should be pretty easy, i suggest using a masking tape as there are many traces around the NEC/TOKINs, you can also use the Soldering Iron to melt, the Plastic Case, as it will be even easier to remove them, remove the capacitor until you have four solder lines "2 Positive/2 Negative", that means the capacitor its completely removed. "See the picture for reference"

View attachment 19115



*STEP 3 - SOLDER TANTALUM CAPACITORS IN THE POSITIVE/NEGATIVE POLE.

This its a very important step, there should be four solder lines once you remove the NEC/TOKIN Capacitor, the Tantalum Capacitors have a Positive Pole and a Negative Pole, the Grey Sign its your Positive Pole, the rest of black its the Negative Pole, the 2 Middle lines "almost together" are your Negative Poles, the other 2 from the start are your Positive, you need to solder 4 Tantalums in the correct order, solder them in a 65º Angle, in order to fit 2 Tantalum Capacitors in 2 lines "Positive/Negative", its important while soldering that the legs of the Capacitor touch they´re respective rails "Positive/Negative". "See the picture for reference"

View attachment 19116


*STEP 4 - ISOLATE THE CAPACITORS

After you done soldering all the four capacitors, grab some electical tape,and isolate the Tantalum Capacitors, this will make sure that the Solder from the Tantalums wont touch the EMI Sheild "Electro Magnetic - Sheild" thus creating a short, after that assemble the PlayStation3, and test the console.

View attachment 19117


*STEP 5 - TEST THE UNIT

If all has been done correctly, your console should boot without any problems, Congratulations you just fixed your PlayStation3, if your console refuses to boot, inspect,and make sure you solder them right, take a look carefully,and test it again, if it still refuses to boot,then more capacitors replacement its needed, replace the 2nd NEC/TOKIN with Tantalums on the RSX Area,where you replaced the NEC/TOKIN area before, the procedure its the same.

"IMPORTANT - TO MAKE SURE YOU DID IT RIGHT, AND MORE CAPACITORS NEEDS REPLACEMENT, THE YLOD MUST BE DELAYED, SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN 3/5 SEC TIME-FRAME, IF ITS IMMEDIATE/SHORTED THAN THAT, IT MEANS THAT THE CAPACITOR ITS NOT PROPERLY SOLDERED, THAT HAPPENS WHEN A NEC ITS REMOVED,BECAUSE THERE IS NO CURRENT SUPPLY TO THE CHIP"

"NOTICE - IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO REMOVE THE NEC/TOKINS, I SUGGEST TO LEAVE THE ORIGINAL NECS UNDER THE BOARD, AS THEY HAVE AN INTERNAL BRIDGE/JUMPER ON THE POSITIVE POINT, SO IT WILL CREATE A BRIDGE FOR THE TANTALUMS, BUT IF YOU DECIDE TO REMOVE ALL THE NECS, YOULL HAVE TO BRIDGE THE TANTALUMS FROM THE POSITIVE TO POSITIVE POINTS WITH A HIGH GUAGE WIRE OR ELSE THE CURRENT WONT PASS THOUGH,SINCE THERE IS NO BRIDGE BETWEEN THE TANTALUMS! BUT THE BEST WAY TO AVOID MAKING JUMPERS IS TO LEAVE AT LEAST 1 ORIGINAL NEC ON THE MOTHERBOARD "See Picture for Reference"

View attachment 19122



*Q&A - QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Q-1 - How long does this repair last?

A-1 - Once you make this capacitor repalacement, your PlayStation3 not only will improve reliability,but it will last you years to come, and you dont have to worry about YLOD anymore.

Q-2 - My PlayStation3 doesn´t any NEC/TOKIN Capacitors,but my PS3 switches off,why?

A-2 - Sony remedied this issue on the 45/40nm starting with the CECH-2100, so they dont encounter this issue, regarding the shutdown on these models,thats a different topic, it can be either a Mosfet/Resistor or even a PWM Chip, that issue its known as BlackOut.

Q-3 - Does these capacitors are the cause for the YLOD?

A-3 - Statistically speaking, 90% of the YLOD its due to these capacitors, as long as the unit hasnt been touched, chances are that its the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors, due to they high failure rate,but if this fix didnt help,then chances are then its another component failure, like a Ceramic Capacitor "more frequent on the L/K Models", or if the Chip themselfs have suffered physical damage or corrosion,which only reballing will help you remedy this,and brand new chipsets.

Q-4 - Will this fix the Gran Turismo 6 and The Last Of Us YLOD?

A-4 - Yes, if you make a full capacitor replacement,meaning you replace all the capacitors, yes thoes titles will become playable, due to the original NEC/TOKIN Capacitors aging and capacitance loss, can´t supply the necessary to the CELL/RSX, thus the YLOD.

Q-5 - I dont want to remove the NEC/TOKINs,can i solder the Tantalum in parallel/Piggy-Back?

A-5 - The good news its yes, you can solder the Tantalums with the NEC/TOKINs in parallel, or as its commonly known, the Piggy.Back technique, this will make sure they work in tandem, you will still have to solder the positive to positive, by melting the NEC/TOKIN plastic shell, but the Negative Pole, you can solder it by finding the Ground Point on the Motherboard.

Q-6 - Have you tested this fixed yourself, or any other user has made this repair,and did you/they have success?

A-6 - Yes, ive made this repair myself, preformed on a European CECHC04 - 60GB, still works till this day, already on the 8th month, one month before the thread was written, other users whom made the capacitors replacement have been successful on the repair, no failures reported so far, the rate its high.

Q-7 - Do you have plans to continue this repair on your personal consoles, or any consoles with YLOD you grab to prove this repair works?

A-7 - Yes, this repair motivates me to purchase more Phat models,since i collect PlayStation consoles,and i like my consoles in perfect working conditions, so reparing Phats should`t be a problem.

Q-8 - Will this fix my Green Light Of Death (GLOD) PlayStation3?

A-8 - Unfortunately no, GLOD its not related to the NEC/TOKIN Capacitors in anyway shape or form, summarizing GLOD its caused by a dead Graphics Chip, mostly when the Substrate has failed "little tinny solder balls under the die" due to overheating/poor maintanence or even reballing/reflowing,since extreme heat does put a strain on the GPU die, your only choice is either a RSX replacement, or using a heat-gun at 150ºC, this will restore the GPU Substrate,and your PS3 should be in working order, but if you choose the heat-gun method,be warned this isnt a long last fix, GPU replacement its advised.

Credits goes to @sandungas for helping me out, and to many other users who tested it "cant remember the names,but thank you" :)



Click to expand...
Hey Dudez, i Made a video a while back where discussinmg multiple instances of why a YLOD can happen and that it is not a specific issue, awesome post <3 :* :D
i hope u like it, should have more views cuz im discussing pretty mutch everything in this 40 min storytalk vid :) my english is not the best but should be understandable :D the NEC TOKIN Situation is @: 9:52 :))
 
Last edited:
C7TJFVB7-CAZ said:
Hey Dudez, i Made a video a while back where discussinmg multiple instances of why a YLOD can happen and that it is not a specific issue, awesome post <3 :* :D
i hope u like it, should have more views cuz im discussing pretty mutch everything in this 40 min storytalk vid :) my english is not the best but should be understandable :D the NEC TOKIN Situation is @: 9:52 :))
Click to expand...
I was hoping to see more about the advances we've made here in the last year and a half. Namely the SYSCON diagostics and Frankenstein modchip. To be critical, I think you could have done better at dispelling the myths about the NEC/TOKINs. Also, reballing isn't crap!

Displaced Gamer's video is the best IMO. His take on it "sounds" like he's against the reballing narrative, but that's not the case. He was only making the claim that it's not the ONLY solution. That the tokins can also cause it. We shouldn't assume.

Ppeople want there to be a simple fix. One that's been hiding under our nose all this time. That's the underdog narrative that sheeple eat up like cake. It's the junk food of human psychology. It tastes good, but the flavor is devoid of nutrients. It's wishful thinking! The tokin narrative that say's "the BGA is fine," that narrative sounds good, but "The cake is a lie!" We will abandon the truth and latch onto any easier explanation. If it seems less expensive, or if it looks easy enough to DIY. It doesen't matter what the truth is, we will perform mental gymnastics to make believe. ANYTHING that allows us to believe something easier.
I don't mean that the tokins aren't a viable fix for the ylod, but at most it accounts for 3%. 90% of YLODs still require a reball as a necessary step in the repair process. Even if that's not what's wrong, we don't know until the chip is off the board. And that isn't 100% either. Not because it was the wrong diagnosis and repair, but because there are other issues on the chip itself that can go wrong (bumps, ram, electromigration, etc.) Reballing isn't crap! But most reballing shops are! People don't want to spend $100 on a repair that might not work. So People aren't told the truth about what to expect. They are sold on sucess stories and bold faced lines, "100% FIX GUARINTEED!" But there isn't a guarantee (they strait up lied), and even if there is, when you try to get them to honor it they ghost you. People send their consoles in thinking they will get a lasting fix, trusting the reballer actually did a good job, when that's often not the case! Some only do a reflow and sy did a reball. Others do sloppy work. Some may be legit, but how can you know? So while a reball might be a valid repair process, the fact you can't get a trusted repair like SONY used to offer means It might as well be complete BS, from the average person's perspective.

That's what Louis Rossman was getting at. He's correct that the Bumps are beat to S$!T! There's nothing we can do about that. Once the bumps are gone, the chip is dead. However, the RSX is something we can replace! Louis was not talking about RSX chips specifically, he was talking about laptops. But yes, if you can find a replacement 90nm RSX on e-bay or Ali express, they are probably not "New." All the NOS 90nm RSX were bought up by reballers long ago! Now they're all plucked from a dead motherboard and in unknown condition. So your failure rate when buying those chips are very high, if you can even find them. But this is not a problem anymore, because we don't need 90nm RSX chips! The frankenstein modchip allows us to use 65nm and 40nm RSX instead! That opens up the slim console's GPU for use! There is no shortage of those consoles. Some broken "for parts" slim consoles are cheaper than NOS chips! And NOS are also still available! So no, the PS3 has a way forward for repair...and it is reballing/replaing the RSX. The problem is the lack of trusted moders/reballers!

Second, the title "Reballing is BS," is just clickbait. You have to take that with a grain of salt. He's fun to watch because he gets animated and is prone to rash oversimplification. Like when he says, "99% of the time reballing is not repair." That's hyperbole. On a 90nm PS3 it's more like 30-60%, because of the problems he mentioned (false positive repairs from thermomechanical re-connection of bumps, tempporary thermal healing of accumulate electromigration damage, even temporary thermal healing of MLCC caps). He's not wrong, but he's blowing it out of proportion.

What I took away from that video was that, FOR HIM, it's not worth the time and expense to reball FCBGA. And the reason is because he has easier fixes to choose from. Also he runs a business in New York City where the rent is insane (not just for the commercial real estate, but for apartments too). He has the luxary of turning away reballing business, because he has a large pool of people needing repairs. He cant spend that much time on a console before it's not worth it! He sticks to the low hanging fruit, because he has plenty of customers. He's doing this in order to save time/money, which in turn earns enough profit for the business to stay afloat. That's a business decision he has made! Probably out of necessity IDK! He has every right to do it his way and I make no judgments. Except, he's trying to say "reballing FCBGA is BS." Period. For everyone! And that we're all in denial of it. That's where his opinionated, "oh that's so Louis" comes out. He's not entirely wrong. But he's myopic. Unless the MB is completely hosed, any device can be repaired if you have the parts/skill/time to do so. And shops with less overhead and fewer customers can devote more of the day to time-consuming repairs. Maybe not in New York City.
 
Yo thankz for the Good Comment bro :*
Well theres something i surely have forgot and maybe didnt put in as mutch but when i was makin this video, i wasnt really active here @ PSXPLACE so im sorry for that to not include forumstuff as that wasnt even the point of the video ;) BUT :D i could make a Montage (with a lot better cutting then before for you dudez to send me and i put them together for u if u want, i like to do this :D

I hate reballing stuff like flipchips that old and big and itzz also not really good for the HW since youre burning in more heat into the chip as it already has in it, sure there are some ligitement uses for reballing but that more goes to smaller things and stuff that couldnt be done otherwise, especially if something is destroyed ;) like u reball a smartphone SOC or something like that rainge, but not a god damn CPU ^^ or bake some in the oven, i also hate this in the PC community, witch im lot more into then Console they also comming up with that BS that they bake a Videocard if it overheated and wont show a pic again, well there i have to say, when its broken, it stays broken, also on the ps3, but my main issue witch causes all of this, is that sony didnt let the fan run as it should and made it too damn slow :P
imma think bout redoing that video or NO a Part 2 proberly cuz im sure that 90% in that video is right ;) :*

Ppeople want there to be a simple fix. One that's been hiding under our nose all this time. That's the underdog narrative that sheeple eat up like cake. It's the junk food of human psychology. It tastes good, but the flavor is devoid of nutrients. It's wishful thinking! The tokin narrative that say's "the BGA is fine," that narrative sounds good, but "The cake is a lie!" We will abandon the truth and latch onto any easier explanation. If it seems less expensive, or if it looks easy enough to DIY. It doesen't matter what the truth is, we will perform mental gymnastics to make believe. ANYTHING that allows us to believe something easier.

DUDE! i digg this quietz a lot, thatz a statement right there :DD awesome ^.^
 
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