PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

lcferrum said:
It was a busy week, sorry for the delay. Nevertheless, I'm back with kind-of-hi-res photos of needed spots. And measurements.

Voltage divider:

View attachment 35007
  • R2001 - gone
  • R2002 - 15.11 kΩ
R2002 is not black, it's a deep shade of blue, but certainly not light blue like two resistors below.

VDDR:

View attachment 35008
  1. 1.237 kΩ (R6219)
  2. 1.241 kΩ (R6214)
  3. 294.5 kΩ (this must be a cap, C6207)
  4. 220.6 Ω (R6211)
  5. 1.354 kΩ (R6222)
  6. 1.571 kΩ (R6216)
Also 1, 2, 5 and 6 look like they have been resoldered.

Diagonal resistor is 9.96 kΩ.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...
Nice to see you're still alive haha :semi twins:, thanks for the measurements. :encouragement:
 
Yeah, I'm also glad that I'm still breathing with all that COVID stuff around.

Anyway, I think that measurements for VDDR are not correct, because of proximity of BD3504FVM and other components.
upload_2021-10-4_10-12-40.png
upload_2021-10-4_10-11-5.png


R6219 (1) is R2'
R2614 (2) is R1'
R6222 (5) is R2
R6216 (6) is R1

From the photo it is clear that (1)=(5) and (2)=(6), these are the same resistors (at least visually). And BD3504FVM datasheet also confirms that: R1=R1' and R2=R2'. But measurements don't match.

By the way, I've measured resistance with ordinary multimeter. I also have LCR meter - maybe it will make some difference. But the most precise way would be to desolder these resistors, which I'm not going to do :) If you have some ideas on how to make better measurements w/o desoldering, please go ahead and share them.
 
Last edited:
LSL said:
Hello everybody!

Its my first post! Im brazilian (sorry my bad english :( ) and I've a small console collection. The PS3 fat (4 USB) is the most beauty model, mainly CECHB model(my opinion).

I've 9 PS3 (4 USB): 5x CECHA, 2x CECHB, 2x CECHE. 8 defective units.

I saw about tantalum capacitor solution about June 2019 in brazilian sites. I bought 50 units (330uf x 2.5v) on AliEXpress in August 2019, but only now (February 2020) that I used in some units.

Before remove the Nec Tokins I analyze the various voltages on board. If OK I analyze the IC6201(RSX) and IC6103(CELL/BE), both IC's are a NCP5318. The pin 7 its a indicator of power failure. If a PS3 has a short YLOD its probably that pin 7 is in low level.

My first PS3 with capacitor changed was a CECHA01, it had a 2.5 sec YLOD, all important voltages are OK, I added 2 tantalums on NEC TOKIN (RSX), PS3 still in YLOD. So I changed 2 NEC TOKIN (RSX) with 8 tantalums capacitors (330uf), still in YLOD, I changed 2 NEC TOKIN (CELL) wit 8 tantalums capacitors, also. After 16 tamtaluns this PS3 come back and work without problems. I still not tested with GT6 or The Last of US because the OFW is in 3.41.

The second PS3 (CECHB) had a short YLOD, I analyzed all the voltages and 1.7V_MISC was down after F6303. I changed C6355(was in short circuit) and F6303. After changes the PS3 still in YLOD, sometimes short, sometimes long (3.5 sec), all voltages are OK. I decided added 2 tantalums on RSX capacitors and no success, still in long YLOD, I remove 1 NEC TOKIN (RSX), still in long YLOD, remove the second NEC TOKIN (RSX) and the PS3 goes to short YLOD.


For testing purposes I soldered 2 tantalums and the CECHB turned on and still working, the RSX line have 2 NEC TOKIN and 2 tantalums, sometimes it have a YLOD. I will solder more tantalums on RSX line. I bought this CECHB01 3 years ago, it was sealed, the NEC TOKINS appear in good situation (I will upload photos).

I don't remember if was the first(CECHA01) or the second(CECHB01) PS3 where IC6201 pin 7 was down and I used a power suplly adjustable to simulate 3.2v (power good) and the PS3 had a YLOD after more than 3.5 secs, the CELL gets hot and the RSX gets warm.

Now I'm analyzing the third PS3(CECHE11). It have a short YLOD, all voltages are OK but IC6201 pin 7 is down. I tested simulating a 3.2v voltage(pin 7) and still with short YLOD, CELL gets warm and RSX still cold. I'm in doubt if change NEC TOKIN for tantalums will be a solution for this case.

I use a scope to analyze voltages and waveform.

I use an power suplly adjustable to test voltage lines in down or to discover short components
Click to expand...





Hey just wondering how is the Unit now?
 
Hello everyone!
I'm repairing a cache model fat ps3. There are short-circuited nec tokins on the cpu side. I removed the processor from the motherboard and found that the processor is fine. The continuation of the short circuit made me suspect nec tokines. Then I inserted the nec tokins from the pcb and they were short circuited.

Then I soldered the spare and solid necs to the pcb. I test them before powering the motherboard and see they are fine. After I power up, I get 1 v, but when I power up for the 2nd time, the capacitors I plug in are short circuited again, I take them out and plug in 16 of the tantalum 470uf/6.3v capacitors I bought from China and they explode.

I think it's the voltage regulators that are causing the capacitors to explode. I inserted the 0.001 ohm 2w resistor of each phase and separated them from each other. There is a 3-phase supply, and when the power is supplied, 5-6 v is instantaneously per phase. Suspecting ncp158, I changed it and there is no solution. Every capacitor I put in explodes, what do you think is the reason for this?
 
So guys, what if Ylod is 7 seconds long? My Fat CECHL-04 powers up, fan gets loud as hell, and after 7 seconds ylod kicks in and powers off. Should i attempt to replace NECs or it needs reballing/reflow?
 
Snake_Plissken92 said:
So guys, what if Ylod is 7 seconds long? My Fat CECHL-04 powers up, fan gets loud as hell, and after 7 seconds ylod kicks in and powers off. Should i attempt to replace NECs or it needs reballing/reflow?
Click to expand...
Sounds like overheating (probably CPU). First step, open and clean out dust. Replace TIM between IHS and HS. See if it lasts longer before YLOD. If it's long enough for you to run PS3 Advanced tools then you can dump the errorlog without having to solder the UART wires for SYSCON. Otherwise you'll have to do it the manual way. Over heating CPU is error 1200.

If you can delid safely, then you could just try deliding and replacing the TIM between the die and IHS, which is a real problem with most CPU's these days. Its just old and dried out. But before trying something that can damage the CPU, I suggest you check the errorlog to be sure it is overheating.

This doesn't sound like a NEC/TOKIN failure.
 
Martolos34 said:
Hello everyone!
I'm repairing a cache model fat ps3. There are short-circuited nec tokins on the cpu side. I removed the processor from the motherboard and found that the processor is fine. The continuation of the short circuit made me suspect nec tokines. Then I inserted the nec tokins from the pcb and they were short circuited.

Then I soldered the spare and solid necs to the pcb. I test them before powering the motherboard and see they are fine. After I power up, I get 1 v, but when I power up for the 2nd time, the capacitors I plug in are short circuited again, I take them out and plug in 16 of the tantalum 470uf/6.3v capacitors I bought from China and they explode.

I think it's the voltage regulators that are causing the capacitors to explode. I inserted the 0.001 ohm 2w resistor of each phase and separated them from each other. There is a 3-phase supply, and when the power is supplied, 5-6 v is instantaneously per phase. Suspecting ncp158, I changed it and there is no solution. Every capacitor I put in explodes, what do you think is the reason for this?
Click to expand...
This is a tough one!

I would guess a short resistor in the VRM circuit. Probe them all against a working board. Write the values down on paper for each and every one, to be sure you got all of them and compare the values side by side later.

If that reveals nothing, begin replacing ICs. IOR sw VRM and the controller. If that fails, then I would suspect a short in the CPU itself. If you are so inclined, you can replace it, but also have to replace the syscon and nand because they are married. Usually techs call it dead at that point.

I'm away from home and won't be back until November, so I can't be of much help without schematics or time until I get back.
 
RIP-Felix said:
Sounds like overheating (probably CPU). First step, open and clean out dust. Replace TIM between IHS and HS. See if it lasts longer before YLOD. If it's long enough for you to run PS3 Advanced tools then you can dump the errorlog without having to solder the UART wires for SYSCON. Otherwise you'll have to do it the manual way. Over heating CPU is error 1200.

If you can delid safely, then you could just try deliding and replacing the TIM between the die and IHS, which is a real problem with most CPU's these days. Its just old and dried out. But before trying something that can damage the CPU, I suggest you check the errorlog to be sure it is overheating.

This doesn't sound like a NEC/TOKIN failure.
Click to expand...
Thank you for reply. I have replaced thermal paste on both chips hoping the fan won't be loud, but still is. I will try to delid the IHS as you suggest and replace the paste on cpu chip.
 
RIP-Felix said:
This is a tough one!

I would guess a short resistor in the VRM circuit. Probe them all against a working board. Write the values down on paper for each and every one, to be sure you got all of them and compare the values side by side later.

If that reveals nothing, begin replacing ICs. IOR sw VRM and the controller. If that fails, then I would suspect a short in the CPU itself. If you are so inclined, you can replace it, but also have to replace the syscon and nand because they are married. Usually techs call it dead at that point.

I'm away from home and won't be back until November, so I can't be of much help without schematics or time until I get back.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for your answer mate. I will continue to work. See you soon.
 
Hello guys! I'm new here.
I find this thread really interesting tbh. I have a PS3 fat (CECHK01) with YLOD, I took it to the technician and he reflowed it, and that's it, the YLOD stills. And I wanted to know if anyone here has successfully revived a CECHK model. If so, please let me know. Sorry for my english, it's not my native language but I try my best hehe.
 
The question is, do you have the skill and equipment to repair the PS3?

UART requires soldering 2-3 small wires and buying a cheap USB adapter. Easy enough, but it just gets you error codes that narrow down the diagnosis. You will still need to repair the issue, which can vary from a blow fuse (easy) to reball (expert).

If the goal is to get the console working to retrieve important data, then it makes sense to attempt repairs. If not, then it'll be easier and probably cheaper to buy a working console. K models are not backward compatible, so pick up a slim 3000 model for cheap and call it a day.

If you want to learn to solder, repair, troubleshoot, reflow, reball, and push your skills to the limit, then PS3 repair has more than enough of a challenge waiting for you. Just beware it'll be hundreds of dollars and you'll brick multiple consoles in the process. On the upside, you'll be able to easily install other mods afterwards. I just completed 3 N64 Digital in 2 hours a couple weeks back. Some of my finest work and it was a breeze. After reballing a PS3, scary has new meaning!

So, yeah...you have to decide what the goal is.
 
RIP-Felix said:
The question is, do you have the skill and equipment to repair the PS3?

UART requires soldering 2-3 small wires and buying a cheap USB adapter. Easy enough, but it just gets you error codes that narrow down the diagnosis. You will still need to repair the issue, which can vary from a blow fuse (easy) to reball (expert).

If the goal is to get the console working to retrieve important data, then it makes sense to attempt repairs. If not, then it'll be easier and probably cheaper to buy a working console. K models are not backward compatible, so pick up a slim 3000 model for cheap and call it a day.

If you want to learn to solder, repair, troubleshoot, reflow, reball, and push your skills to the limit, then PS3 repair has more than enough of a challenge waiting for you. Just beware it'll be hundreds of dollars and you'll brick multiple consoles in the process. On the upside, you'll be able to easily install other mods afterwards. I just completed 3 N64 Digital in 2 hours a couple weeks back. Some of my finest work and it was a breeze. After reballing a PS3, scary has new meaning!

So, yeah...you have to decide what the goal is.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you're replying me directly lol, but here I go with my answer.
- I have little soldering skills, it's not that big deal for me, tbh.

- Can I use this to get the SYSCON codes?? :
t2adG66.jpg

It's really cheap, and it says on description:
PL2303
Supports 5V
Supports 300bps ~ 3Mbps
 
swampy said:
I don't know if you're replying me directly lol, but here I go with my answer.
- I have little soldering skills, it's not that big deal for me, tbh.

- Can I use this to get the SYSCON codes?? :
t2adG66.jpg

It's really cheap, and it says on description:
PL2303
Supports 5V
Supports 300bps ~ 3Mbps
Click to expand...

Sorry if it's off-topic. But, should I get this one instead?:

Vqy8cqc.jpg
 
Yo, I was wondering if it would be a smart idea to buy a YLOD CECHA01 on eBay and fix it.
If it hasn't been opened there's a likely chance that it's just the capacitors, and I get a cool BC PS3.

Though, I could get a Japanese CECHH PS3 or a CECH-2101 (the one with the new capacitors) and call it a day.
I have a PS2 (50001), without a disk drive, and the fan header is gone, so i'm using a fan mod. I'd like to get a new PS2 and what not
but getting all of those mods like the HDD takes money.

So, I wanted an opinion on this.
 
Ah. OK. I actually decided to go with a CECHK since those have 65nm RSX and CELLs. I'm not sure if this is any better, but it could be. I would've preferred a CECH-2101 but this listing on eBay is an absolute steal. I'll be refurbishing it.
 
truemaster said:
all ylod ps3 with 90nm gpu like the cecha you want are most likely bga defect problems. but a syscon diagnose can tell for sure
Click to expand...
Absolutely this. All the research so far indicates that the majority of errors are related to bga issues, not tokins. You could get lucky and land a unit with bad tokins, but you wouldn't know until you opened it up and got the syscon log.
 
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